RECOLLECTIONS OF A NAVAL LIFE
Including the Cruises of the Confederate States Steamers
"Sumter" and "Alabama":
Electronic Edition.
Kell, John McIntosh, 1823-1900
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First edition, 1998
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Academic Affairs Library, UNC-CH
University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill,
1998.
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Library of Congress Subject
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LC Subject Headings:
Kell, John McIntosh, 1823-1900.
Sailors -- Confederate States of America -- Biography.
Confederate States of America. Navy.
Sumter (Confederate cruiser)
Alabama (Ship)
Georgia -- History -- Civil War, 1861-1865 -- Personal
narratives.
Confederate States of America -- History, Naval.
United States -- History -- Civil War, 1861-1865 -- Naval
operations.
United States -- History -- Civil War, 1861-1865 -- Personal
narratives, Confederate.
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1998-11-16,
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finished scanning (OCR) and proofing.
RECOLLECTIONS
OF A
NAVAL LIFE
INCLUDING THE
CRUISES OF THE CONFEDERATE STATES STEAMERS
"SUMTER" AND "ALABAMA"
BY
JOHN McINTOSH KELL
EXECUTIVE OFFICER OF "SUMTER" AND "ALABAMA"
WASHINGTON
THE NEALE COMPANY, PUBLISHERS
431 ELEVENTH STREET
1900
"Now
few are the good things life can hold,-- And
the one I prize all others above Is
neither fame, nor a wealth of gold, But
the trust and joy of a perfect love."
It would scarcely seem
au fait
that a book should make its
appearance (no matter how unpretentious it may be) before a
criticising and oftentimes censorious public without a preface. Yet I
have usually found prefaces either explanatory, apologetic, or
regretful. The book will be its own explanation, I have no apologies
to make; but my regrets are many and great. Ten years ago I made up
my mind and began to write this book for the pleasure of my family
and friends. In my busy life weeks would often pass without my
writing a word. Having a natural aversion to the pen was often an
excuse for my neglect, and the fact was ever before me that a most
delightful and perfect book in Admiral Semmes' "Service Afloat" had
been given to the world, from which mine could not differ in facts,
data, or detail, and could never approach in beauty of diction or
language. My life has been one of deeds, not words, and what I
have done in the strictest sense of duty and high integrity of
purpose shall never be apologized for. To me there has never been a
"New South." The blood of heroic sires and gentle mothers in the
veins of the present generation have made her what she is--a
remodeled country, built upon the grandeur of the past and the
holiest memories a people ever inherited! The Will of God could not
be stayed or averted. Might prevailed; but behind the frowning
Providence of disaster and defeat for His own wise plans and
purposes, God has at last smiled upon the South, and she has many
compensations from His hand. My regrets are that many who were
with us when I began to write will never con these simple pages, for
many, indeed most, of the friends of my youth have passed before
me "on that road from which no traveler e'er returns."
To their children and my own posterity I leave in these pages the
truth of history and hope they will not be without interest to the
young. To my brothers, the "United Confederate Veterans," I give
the narrative of our times, the "times that tried men's souls," that left
us nought save honor, a love of country, the sacred memory of
valiant lives and deeds, and a hope in God!
I BELIEVE it was Job who so pathetically exclaimed, "O, that mine
adversary had written a book!" (which wish I could never explain
satisfactorily to myself). Not being solicited by my enemies, but by
my family and friends, for their pleasure, hoping it will give pleasure
to others also, I venture to record some of the incidents of travel in
my long and eventful life. If I may be forgiven the egotism (as I am
an "author quite unknown to fame"), I will here introduce myself as
an American of Southern birth, a Georgian, proud of my native
State. I was named for my maternal great uncle, General John
McIntosh, famous for deeds of heroism in the war with the
Spaniards in the early history of Georgia.
When I was four years old my father died, leaving to my mother's
care five little children. My childhood was spent upon our
plantation, "Laurel Grove," McIntosh County, often varied by visits
to Sapelo Island, the residence of my mother's first cousin, Hon.
Thomas Spalding, whose son Randolph, a few months my senior,
grew up with me in the intimacy of brothers. Our grandmothers were
sisters, Marjory and Hester McIntosh. Marjory married James
Spalding and Hester (my grandmother) married Alexander Baillie, and
died leaving an infant, my mother, who was reared by her aunt, Mrs.
Marjory Spalding, for whom she was named.
My boyhood was passed as the Southern boy of that day, in the
healthful, manly sports of hunting, riding, boating, and fishing,
varied by school attendance in Darien, the county seat of McIntosh
County, which was settled by my ancestors, Clan McIntosh, and first
named "New Inverness," for their distant home in Scotland. My first
teacher was Mr. Bradwell, who was famous in the seaboard counties
as a teacher of great merit and ability. Shortly after, Dr. James Troup,
the friend and physician of our family, was elected to the Legislature,
and going up in his carriage to Milledgeville (for it was before the
days of railroad travel), stopped at "Perry Mills" during the
examination of a school kept by one Musgrove, a Scotchman. Being
pleased with his mode of teaching, especially mathematics and
English grammar, on his return to Darien Dr. Troup persuaded my
mother to allow him to take me with his son and daughter and place
us there at school. This school, however, was of short duration. The
poor old Scotchman got on a big "spree," and remaining so for some
time, we were sent home. My next teacher was Mr. Pincheon, who
conducted a large and prosperous school in Darien till he was called
to take charge of the Chatham Academy, in Savannah. To this school
I was sent in company with my cousin, Henry K. Rees, now
Episcopal Evangelist of the State of Georgia, an earnest worker in his
Master's vineyard, honored and beloved in his profession. From this
school I returned home and remained a year.
In my sixteenth year I was sent to Savannah into the counting
house of Andrew Low & Co., with a view of entering mercantile life. I
cannot say that it was to my taste, and after the winter's work I went
home for a visit. I found the U. S. Brig
Consort on a survey of our
coast. This vessel was under the command of Captain Glynn, soon
succeeded by Captain Ramsey; and here there came a change over
the spirit of my boyish dreams at this impressionable age, and I
resolved to serve my country as a
naval officer. My frequent visits to the ship and the visits of the
officers to my home (my sisters being young ladies in society at the
time), and the notice the officers took of me as a lad, was no doubt
very suggestive of the profession; but I think being born almost
within sound of the billows and in sight of the "deep blue sea," I
had an innate love for it which grew with my growth and
strengthened with my strength, and which will remain with me while
life lasts.
At my earnest entreaty my mother (though it must have cost her
widowed heart many a pang) applied through our immediate
Representative, Hon. Thos. Butler King, who obtained for me an
appointment as midshipman in the United States Navy, dating from
September 9, 1841.
His letter, which I found among her papers, reads:--
HOUSE OF REPRESENTATIVES, WASHINGTON.
September 11, 1841.
My DEAR MADAM: After many and repeated efforts I have at length
obtained a midshipman's warrant for your son. He now belongs to his country.
That he will bear himself gallantly and honorably in the service to which he
belongs I do not doubt. That he may attain its highest and brightest honors is
the sincere wish of your faithful friend
And obt. servant,
THO. BUTLER KING.
To Mrs. KELL,
Darien, Ga.
My first orders were to join the Sloop of War Falmouth, then
fitting out at the Brooklyn Navy Yard, and under the command of my
relative, Captain James McKay McIntosh. In obedience to orders I
took passage on a sailing vessel for New York from Savannah. Upon
the voyage we experienced some rough weather; but having once
taken a trip in a brig from Darien to Georgetown, South Carolina,
with the family of Mr. John Green, a rice planter of our county (which
gave me my first experience of sea life), I felt quite at home on the
voyage to New York and did not suffer from seasickness.
Upon my arrival in New York I found a letter from Captain
McIntosh, telling me to take passage in a bay steamer for Bridgeport,
Conn., where he was residing with his family. I did as he directed,
and arriving at Bridgeport about the hour of noon, proceeded to the
hotel. My first introduction to Northern manners and customs took
place here. I noticed very closely everything that took place, and was
much surprised to find young white servant girls attending at the
table. The dinner was a revelation to me. Down the center of the table
was a row of pumpkin pies. After getting fairly under way with the
meats and vegetables, I noticed the girls handing around in pitchers
a foaming beverage, which I innocently mistook for champagne, and
prepared my palate for a luscious quaff. Holding my tumbler on high
to be filled, I soon took a full mouthful, but quietly set it down again,
and gazed around me to see the effect on other people. They seemed
to enjoy it, but it was my first taste of hard cider, and I was
thoroughly disgusted and disappointed. Not so with the pumpkin
pie, however; I enjoyed that with the zest of a hungry boy of sixteen.
After dinner I sought the residence of my cousin, Captain McIntosh,
and made the acquaintance of his beautiful young wife and two
pretty little children. Among the features of the little town was
pointed out to me the home of P. T. Barnum, one of its residents. One
evening while there we were invited to tea. I noticed the absence of
all Southern breads, such as waffles, muffins, wafers, etc., and that all
the breads were sweet, commencing with doughnuts, which I liked
on first acquaintance. In two or three days the captain and I went to
New York, and then began my life on board a "man of war."
The Falmouth was a first-class sloop of war of that date. I at once
fitted myself out in the jaunty midshipman uniform, further providing
myself with bedding and all the necessary articles, and took up my
quarters with my messmates, to "be rocked in the cradle of the
deep." Everything
was pressed forward getting ready, as we were shortly to set
sail for what was then known as the "Gulf Squadron," and to take
with us as passenger the newly-appointed minister to Quito, Mr.
Black. My letters, at this time full of boyish enthusiasm, were
preserved among my mother's treasures, and are a great source of
amusement to my children now. After landing our minister we had a
pleasant and interesting cruise through the Windward Islands,
touching at Santa Cruz, St. Thomas, Martinique, and finally shaping
our course for Pensacola, the rendezvous of the Gulf Squadron.
On arriving at Pensacola we entered upon a round of gaiety. I saw
for the first time here the celebrated Madame Le Vert, who was in the
zenith of her fame and popularity. I have seen many more beautiful
women, but never saw one more full of grace and vivacity or more
charming as a conversationalist. After remaining in port a month or
more we sailed for Vera Cruz, coming to anchor under the island of
Sacrificios, this being the only safe anchorage from the violent
northers that blow across the Gulf of Mexico, and distant some miles
from the city. The city of Vera Cruz presented a true picture of
Spanish architecture, the houses being built of adobe or unburnt
brick, plastered and whitewashed, with tile roofing.
The city was not attractive, and the fort opposite presented a
very formidable appearance--built of coral from the reef upon which it
stood. Old Vera Cruz, fifteen miles northwest of the present city, is
said to be the spot where Cortez disembarked in 1518. Our first
precaution after anchoring was to moor ship securely, with our two
bowers and sheet anchors so planted as to resist these violent
northers, also sending down our lower yards and housing topmasts.
In a few days we had reason to congratulate ourselves upon being
so well prepared, for we experienced one of those storms in all its
fury, making it dangerous for a man to hold his head even above the
rail of the ship. We were quite ready and relieved after this severe
experience
to receive the order to "get ready for sea." In those days (it
being before the day of steamers) men-of-war were allowed to carry
silver from one country to another as an accommodation to
merchants, at the same time allowing a percentage for this service to
the captain doing such favor. Our captain had taken on board a
quantity of silver bars to be carried to parties in the city of New
Orleans. After a pleasant passage we arrived and anchored off the
mouth of the Belize, our ship drawing too much water to cross the
bar. A little steam tug came alongside, to which the silver was
transferred, and I, with other officers, was detailed to take charge of
the silver and deliver it to the houses to which it was consigned. My
first impression of New Orleans was remarkable in this particular. We
landed in the French part of the city, where French was the prevailing
tongue, while across the street dividing the American and Creole or
French population English was used entirely. After attending to our
mission and enjoying a day in the city we returned on board ship and
shortly after set sail for Pensacola.
PENSACOLA in those days was the paradise of midshipmen.
They, with their seniors, the lieutenants, gave themselves up to the
gaieties of this seaport town. It was always noted for the pretty girls
that had their homes there, and of course they were always "belles"
when the Gulf Squadron was at its rendezvous. Like the Norfolk girls,
they were very full of "sea knowledge." My friend, John N. Maffitt,
in a charming little story of his, makes an old veteran officer say to a
middy: "Mr. Forbes, a leopard cannot change its spots, neither can a
Norfolk girl be otherwise than beautiful and d-d dangerous. At
school their first class reader is 'Dorsey Lever.' Every Sunday they
study the 'Navy Register,' and when standing on the 'Bridge of
Sighs' with 'spooney' midshipmen by their sides they become
instructors of astronomy, nautical romance and the abstruse science
of knotting and splicing." Well, her Pensacola sisters can equal the
Norfolk girl, and "sighing sailors, beautiful senoritas, scowling rivals
and love-sick middies" filled the tropical air of that old town in my
young days, and "music, moonlight, love, and flowers" were the
living inspiration!
After refitting we proceeded on our way northward, stopping at
Savannah, Georgia, the seaport town of the captain's native State,
where he was received with great cordiality, and our ship visited by
many of its inhabitants. The captain took advantage of the occasion
to visit his old home near Darien, Georgia, and to my great delight I
accompanied him, and visited my home and family after many
months of absence. We were quite the observed of all in our bright
uniforms, and I felt the great importance of my position as an officer
of the Government, though
only a midshipman! We enjoyed our week's visit to the fullest extent,
and took stage coach for the city of Savannah, passing through the
Counties of McIntosh, Liberty, etc. Experiencing some runaway tilts
in the coach and four, we capped the climax late in the evening by
the driver going to sleep and upsetting the stage in a marsh while
driving over a causeway. Fortunately for me, I had the seat with the
driver, and soon extricated myself by jumping clear of the wreck. Not
so, however, with the inside passengers; they had to climb through
the upper windows of the coach. The rotundity of the captain made
this rather a hard job for him and he lost no time in addressing the
driver in sailor parlance, not very complimentary. After all were
rescued alive and unhurt and the driver had meekly borne his share
of abuse for his carelessness, we prepared to start again.
Righting up the coach, and being re-seated, we passed the
remainder of the journey in laughing and joking over the ridiculous
plight to which we had been reduced, the captain declaring he "ran
no such risks at sea, where he was much more safe than on terra
firma." Upon arriving in Savannah we joined our ship and set sail for
New York. At the Brooklyn Navy Yard we found the Frigate
Savannah fitting out for her first cruise, and bearing the broad
pennant of the commodore of the Pacific Squadron. I applied for
orders to this vessel, which I received, and reported for duty on
board--Captain Andrew Fitzhugh, commanding--October 20, 1843.
As soon as the Frigate Savannah was ready for sea we set sail for
Rio Janeiro on our way to the Pacific. After a remarkably pleasant
voyage we anchored off Rio on the 18th of December. The
geographies truly say that the peerless bay of Rio, upon which the
city is situated, is scarcely rivaled in beauty by the far-famed Bay of
Naples. On nearing the coast the first object that presents itself to
the mariner is "Sugar Loaf Mountain." This mountain is about nine
hundred feet above the sea. There are many
other mountains, among them the "Organ," so called from the
resemblance it bears to the pipes of a huge organ; also "Table
Mountain," whose summit is flat. I believe it is this mountain that is
called by the Portuguese "Square Topsail," as it quite resembles
that article of rigging to a practiced eye. Of course the climate of
Brazil is warm, and subject to the dread usurper of such climates,
yellow fever; but it is very much tempered by the breezes that come
from the sea. The city of Rio has a great deal in it to enjoy. We
midshipmen went on shore at the first opportunity, and being
somewhat tired of ship fare found our way to a restaurant and
ordered a supper. When the bill was presented it was up in the
millions in their currency (with which we were not then familiar) and
was truly startling. We became very much alarmed and thought we
were a lot of "busted individuals," but managed upon a financial
explanation to settle the bill. Previous to this supper we had "taken
in" the town, visiting, among other places, the beautiful Cathedral.
Upon entering this building we handed a very officious and self-important
guide some small change to show us around. After
showing us through the Cathedral proper he invited us into a
feastroom, where he told us the priests the night before had held a
banquet. Judging from the empty ale bottles it must have been quite
a banquet! He kindly offered us some of the ale (of which we
partook), this being my first and last experience of ale drinking in a
church.
After taking in water and provisioning ship, we continued our
voyage around the Horn, encountering rough weather, heavy gales,
boisterous seas, and a very low degree of temperature, being nearly
frozen for three weeks off the pitch of the Cape. The violence of the
gales forced us down to latitude 62 degrees south. After rounding
the Cape we shaped our course northward in the broad Pacific, and
welcomed the more temperate clime of the lower latitudes.
On the 17th of February, 1844, we came to anchor in the Bay of
Callao, the seaport of Lima, the ancient Capital of Peru. The Bay of
Callao is formed from a peninsula on which formerly stood the old
city of Callao, submerged more than a hundred years ago by a
terrible earthquake, the chimneys still showing above ground. An
English company were proposing at that time to excavate for the
buried treasure of that once wealthy city. It is related that during this
terrific earthquake a Spanish frigate was carried by the incoming sea
several miles in the interior and left there by the receding waters.
The island of San Lorenzo forms the western barrier or sea front to
the bay, thus forming a very snug anchorage. Callao was built after
the style of old Spanish towns--subject to earthquakes--of adobe,
with one story only, and tile roofing. Lima, about six miles from
Callao, is famous for its old cathedrals of great wealth and
magnificence, dating back to the days of Pizarro. In one of these we
were shown by the priest a body embalmed and claimed to be that of
Pizarro himself. A beautiful stream passes through the city, and
along its banks are shaded walks, where the Spanish maidens and
duennas are seen in their peculiar dress, with a mantilla over the
head having an opening for but one eye. This eye, often of brilliant
appearance, united to a graceful, queenly carriage and walk, leaves
great scope for imagined beauty. Across the stream is a famous
amphitheatre, where the renowned bullfights took place at that time,
a great attraction for the city and country around--doubloons and
bouquets being eagerly thrown to the successful matadors. It was of
course our privilege to witness one of these scenes of wild
excitement and great brutality. Often fine steeds were gored and the
matador himself fatally injured, and finally the poor bull would
succumb to the torture no longer endurable. Then would be brought
in a truck pulled by four magnificent horses richly caparisoned, the
carcass thrown upon it, and amidst the shouts of the multitude
carried out, when
another animal would be brought in to go through the same ordeal.
Lima was famous for her bullfights, the cruel sport of a semi-barbarous
age and time.
At Callao I was transferred to the Schooner Shark, under the
command of Lieutenant Neil M. Howison. Mr. Howison came out as
flag lieutenant with Commodore Dallas, ordered to command the
Pacific Squadron. The commodore's flag was hoisted on the Frigate
Savannah, but he did not live to take a cruise. He was taken sick and
died on shore at Callao. The Schooner Shark was given to his flag
lieutenant as a select command, and it was a privilege to serve on
board. I, being only a midshipman, was placed in charge of a watch.
My first experience was an amusing one. The Shark was ordered to
take some of our officers leaving the squadron to Panama on their
way home. While on this voyage we passed quite near the Lobas
group of islands, or really a group of rocks, where seals and sea lions
reared their young in great numbers. We were running with a free
wind with our square sails set, and the course given me took us quite
near the rocks. Upon the near approach of the schooner the seals set
up a great roaring as they rolled into the water from their rocky beds
and frolicked around in the water in our wake. It happened to be just
at dinner time, and the officers taking passage were at table with the
captain. I put my head down the hatchway and called to the captain
to "come and see the seals playing around the vessel." He replied:
"Will be up as soon as I finish dinner," but one of the officers came
up at once. Calling out, he said: "Howison, come on deck!" As the
captain came up he was surprised to see our nearness to the rocks;
still I was keeping the course given me, but there was evidently a
current setting us on toward them. The captain at a glance took in
the situation. He directed me to "put the helm down and haul on the
wind and give good distance in passing the rocks," remarking, by way
of pleasantry, "Mr. Kell, you must think you are in a coach and four,
driving round a
street corner." I was strictly carrying out my orders, but was wanting
in experience as a watch officer. For a long time after that I heard a
great deal of "those seals and my coach and four."
We reached Panama after a pleasant voyage, and took leave of our
officers, who crossed the Isthmus on their way home. We anchored
off the island of Toboga, which was then in its primitive state, and
occupied by the native Indians, with the exception of an old Irish
woman, who had married one of the head men of their tribe. She did
the washing for the officers, using as a smoothing iron the conchs
picked up on the seashore. This was truly a lovely spot in its
primeval growth and beauty. Its limpid streams ran down from the
hills above into grottoes, making beautiful natural bathing houses,
which we enjoyed to the fullest extent. From our refreshing baths we
would stroll up into the pineapple fields and gather the fruit ripe from
the plant, and only those who have eaten it in this way know its
exquisite perfection. After getting on board sufficient water for our
voyage, with what fruit, vegetables, and poultry we could gather
from the natives, and our supply of clean linen from our Irish
washerwoman, beautifully clean, but conch ironed and minus
buttons, we took our departure from lovely Toboga, one of the
natural garden spots of God's great universe.
Returning along the coast of South America, with pleasant breezes
and smooth seas, we stopped in the port of Payta, where a limited
trade is carried on with coasting vessels and whalers. We also ran
into the small port of Huanchaco. There, in company with the captain
and one or two other officers, I left the schooner for a day's ride in
the country to visit the ruins of one of the cities of the Incas, who
occupied that country when Pizarro passed along on his conquering
march to the city of Lima. We could distinctly trace out the streets
and the foundations of some of the buildings. In our ride through
these ruins
we frightened up a fox from his lair, and had a wild chase over the
old town, which was royal fun for a lot of sailors.
On our return to the village of Huanchaco we were entertained at
the house of one of the priests of the village, where we enjoyed a
most delightful drink made from a species of the passion flower, or
May-pop, called there the "granadelia." It is quite as acid and has a
more pleasant taste than the common lime. We returned at sunset on
board ship and next morning early got under way and stood down
the coast for Callao, stopping at convenient points for hunting and
fishing, for little health runs on shore, and other amusements of
various kinds.
IN THE very early part of this cruise I find from old letters (one of
which I will insert) that I was very much impressed with San
Domingo and the surroundings, and must have picked up some
traditions from the islanders.
LATITUDE 18° 43' N., LONG. 75° 23' W.
May 6.
MY DEAR MOTHER: We have in sight St. Domingo and the small island of
Navaza, the latter noted for being the place where some of Columbus' men
landed in crossing from Jamaica to St. Domingo in canoes, having lost their
vessel on the former island. There were but two among his crew that would
volunteer to cross, so after working on and improving the canoe to enable it
better to stand the sea they started, taking Indians to paddle them. Before
arriving at this island one of them died famishing for water, and after landing on
the barren rock they found pools of water. The poor natives insisted upon
drinking their fill, and would not listen to the precautions of the Spaniards, and
several others died. Had these daring adventurers missed this island they would
certainly have perished before reaching St. Domingo, and Columbus no doubt
would never have been heard from, but left to die by the hand of the savages.
Soon after this adventure the natives stopped bringing him provisions, and it was
with the greatest difficulty he could procure subsistence for his men. I was struck
with the stratagem he used for inducing the natives to furnish him with
provisions. He ascertained that within three days there would be a total eclipse
of the moon in the early part of the night. He therefore sent to the principal
caciques, or head men, of each tribe, and summoned them to a conference,
appointing for it the day of the eclipse. When they arrived he spoke to them
sharply for having prevented their people from furnishing him with food. After
haranguing them for some time he told them he and his followers worshiped a
God who lived in the skies, who favored all that were good, but punished
transgressors; that this great God was angry with the Indians who had refused to
furnish his faithful followers with food, and intended to chasten them with
famine and pestilence. Should they disbelieve his warning, a signal would be
given that night that the moon would change its color as a token of the
punishment that awaited them. Many scoffed at him, but waited most
anxiously the coming of the night. The moon rose majestically and all eyes
were fixed upon her. At the time Columbus told them, the moon grew darker
and darker, and abject terror seized upon them. Hurrying to Columbus they
implored him to intercede with his Deity, and they would hereafter bring him
everything he required. Columbus left them, promising to intercede. When the
eclipse was nearly over he returned, saying his God had deigned to listen, and
would pardon them on condition that they kept their promise, and that the
darkness would now be withdrawn. When the moon emerged in her brightness
they were overwhelmed with joy, and furnished Columbus ever afterwards
abundantly.
The island of Navaza is also remarkable for a fountain of fresh water
gushing up near it in the sea, which sweetens the surface for some distance.
Should we be favored with fair winds to-night I think we may be at anchor
off Aux Cayes to-morrow evening, as we are distant some sixty miles.
After this digression I will proceed to Callao, where we arrived and
safely put into our old anchorage, March 6, 1845. We found there at
anchor the Store Ship Relief, the English Line of Battle Ship
Collingwood, the English Steamer Cormorant, and the French
Sloop of War Triumphante. This made it very gay. Every evening
we were off watch or duty we fell into our old habit of going on
shore for a horseback ride or some other pastime. In looking back at
those days when, as the poet beautifully expresses it, "Life was in its
spring," it took very little to awaken our mirth, and less with health
and freedom from care to make us happy.
On the 2d of April we set sail for Valparaiso, taking on board
Captain Armstrong, returning home. After a very boisterous passage
we arrived in Valparaiso on the 20th of April, and on the 25th
experienced a very heavy gale from the northwest, which made our
little vessel toss and pitch terrifically, with seas breaking entirely
over us. One or two ships went aground. The next morning the shore
presented an appearance of wreck and disaster. We were glad to
leave this insecure bay, and on the 29th sailed on
our return to Callao, having landed Captain Armstrong at
Valparaiso.
This city is the principal port of Chile, and while the bay upon
which it is situated is capable of sheltering a large fleet or squadron,
it is open to the north, and when winds prevail from this quarter it is
scarcely a safe anchorage. Its name being interpreted means "Vale of
Paradise," which it must have acquired from the delightful climate
and picturesque scenery. It is quite a seat of commerce and is in the
direct route of vessels proceeding to the countries bordering on the
Pacific.
My service on the Schooner Shark ended here and I was
transferred to my old ship, the Frigate Savannah, bearing the broad
pennant of Commodore John D. Sloat.
While the service on board the little Schooner Shark was very
much enjoyed, it was a pleasure to get back to the strict man-of-war
discipline and etiquette of the frigate. We had a fine band of music
on board, and were constantly receiving and exchanging visits with
the officers of the foreign ships in port, principally English and
French. After weeks of this life we were rejoiced to hear "all hands up
anchor," bound for the Sandwich Islands. This voyage took us
across the broad Pacific, and after falling into the trade winds we
sailed for days without changing the course of the ship or trimming
the yards. The entire voyage--so calm was the sea and so moderate the
wind--might have been made in an open boat. We came to anchor in
Byron's Bay, Island of Hawaii, a beautiful land-locked bay, with the
tropical growth coming down to the water's edge, while high up in
the mountains could be seen streams rushing down precipices to
mingle with the waters of the bay in silver spray. No sooner was the
ship brought to anchor than we were surrounded by canoes with
outriggers to steady them from capsizing, loaded with tropical fruits
of all varieties. The natives, instead of passing from one boat to
another to reach the side of the ship, would pass the fruit and
disappear overboard, coming up alongside
the ship. As they were unencumbered by dress, this diving was
easy to accomplish, and they appeared quite as much at home in the
water as out of it. The deck of the ship was soon spread out liberally
with all the beautiful fruits, thereby rejoicing the eyes that love the
beautiful in Nature, and giving pleasure to officers and crew with the
feast in anticipation, grown in this Paradise of the tropics.
The natives then were a simple and confiding people, influenced
for good by a missionary's family who lived among them. The dress
of the females consisted of a loose flowing gown made from the bark
of a tree. The males wore a coarser fibrous material of the same sort.
The chief luxury in life seemed to consist in bathing. On the
outskirts of the village was a beautiful pool of fresh water, formed
by a stream coming down the mountain side, and they could be seen
at all hours of the day going in and coming out, as merry as
dolphins at play. Little children, just able to scramble up the rocks,
would reach an elevated position and spring over into the pool with
the exquisite grace of nymphs. Upon this island is the famous
volcano of Mauna Loa, which has several times poured its streams
of lava down the mountain side into the sea, destroying the fish for
miles along the coast. The day after our arrival several of us got
permission to visit this volcano, and secured a sufficient number of
natives to carry our change of clothing in a "Sandwich Island
trunk," which was really two immense gourds fitted into each other,
the larger half over the smaller, thus making it air and water-tight.
The mode of carrying was also novel, one on each side of a pole
over a man's shoulder, being evenly balanced; the sticks so smooth
and glossy that they did not even bruise the bare shoulders of the
carrier. We at once began to climb the mountain, through beautiful
groves of guava, a fruit peculiar for its water properties of slaking
thirst, and which we enjoyed freely when no spring or stream was
by. In many places we passed over beds of lava, like molten glass of
greenish hue. After a tiresome
day's jaunt we came to the "half-way house," utterly broken down.
We were glad to rest on the clean mats furnished us, and enjoyed
still more the relief afforded by their process of lomi-lomi, or, as it
would now be called, "massage treatment." This was a gentle
pounding of every muscle of the body and limbs with the fists.
Before retiring, however, to this refreshing treatment we took the
precaution to order our supper. They suggested a nice dog, but we
said we preferred chickens and vegetables. They cook delightfully,
in holes lined with smooth rocks in which they build fires. When the
rocks become thoroughly heated to the highest degree they put in
the poultry cut up in pieces of convenient size, wrapped in large
plantain leaves so as to retain all the juices; then they cover these
carefully prepared packages with hot rocks, over which they bank
earth, leaving a vent hole for the steam to escape. This process of
cooking retained all the flavor of meats and vegetables, and was
delightful. I suppose it is akin to the process of barbecuing still
practiced in portions of the world, especially our own South. We
arose in an hour or two and enjoyed this royal feast, "fit for the
gods," then indulged in a cigar or two, and after a little merrymaking
sought our luxurious couches of mats and slept soundly until the
sun awoke us the next morning. Awaking with renewed energy we
had the remnants of our feast of the evening before, with the
addition of a nice cup of coffee, and proceeded up the mountain,
arriving at the crater of the volcano about noon. The view was
strikingly grand and wonderful to eyes that had never before beheld
such workings of Nature. At the bottom of this extinct crater, about
seven miles in circumference and several hundred feet deep, was a
burning lake of lava some three miles in circumference and boiling
like a pot of hominy. Our guides proposed our going down to the
burning lake, to which we assented, and with long staffs furnished
us we began our perilous descent. This feat we accomplished
without accident, walking upon the
congealed lava to the very edge of the burning lake. Our guides
were very careful to approach on the windward side, as it would
have been instant death to have the wind blow on us across the
molten lake. We however approached it in safety and near enough
to put our staffs into the burning lake. After accomplishing this feat
we gladly retraced our steps, and were a little hurried in doing so
when told "that a shift of wind would destroy us."
Now came the "tug of war" in the ascent of the precipitous sides
of the cavern, often stopping at convenient points to view the
depths below. We reached the surface above just at sunset, and
surveyed with amazement the wonderful fissures in the earth
through which came sulphurous fumes and steam. Along the margin
of these fissures were beautifully crystallized formations of sulphur.
As night approached we seated ourselves to view the magnificent
pyrotechnics of Nature. The boiling caldron below presented a lake
of fire spurting up the boiling lava in every conceivable and
beautiful shape. This wonderful sight banished slumber from our
eyes till the "wee sma' hours," when we could no longer resist "tired
Nature's sweet restorer, balmy sleep." Early the next morning, after
partaking of a light breakfast and a cup of refreshing coffee, we
retraced our steps down the mountain, delighted with the specimens
of lava we had obtained and put in our Sandwich Island trunks. We
arrived at the village by the sea just in time to take passage in the
sunset boat for our ship. The enjoyment of this visit to the crater of
Mauna Loa lingers with me still, and is one of the unforgotten
pleasures of my life.
IN A few days we took leave of this charming island and
its beautiful scenery and made sail for Honolulu, Oahu
Island, reaching that port in two days. This port, even
at that day, was the most important among the group of
Sandwich Islands. Here the whalers gather to transfer
their cargoes of oil and do their trading. Drunkenness
and debauch was even at this early day showing itself
among the poor natives from their contact with (so-called)
civilization. Different, indeed, from Byron's Bay, where
innocence and purity were presented in its primeval state.
Our first visit to the shore was an official one, that of the
commodore and his staff (of which I was a member) to
call upon King Kamiamaha the third, then reigning monarch.
Upon entering his palace each one, from the commodore
to the least important of the party, was requested
to place his signature in a book presented by one of the
king's officials. The reception room was nicely furnished ,
but presented no feature of European royalty. In a few
minutes the king entered the room dressed in a full uniform
in European costume liberally covered with gold lace.
He seemed very ill at ease, but was a fine specimen of the
Kanaka, or Sandwich Island type. After exchanging the
compliments usual on such occasions we took our leave.
When out of the palace the missionary who accompanied
us remarked, "The king will soon get out of his trapping
and don his tappa-robe and go to the beach and his bath,
where he spends most of the time." The surf bathing
practiced by these natives is of a most exhilarating character.
Taking a little float of reeds, called a balsa, they
work their way outside the heavy rollers, then watch their
opportunity and get their balsa pointed in towards the
shore, and on top of the largest billow would come rushing in at
tremendous speed to the beach, where the receding billow would
leave them stranded. Shouldering their balsa they would go through
the same sport time and again, till wearied of the healthful exercise
and pastime. The natives generally were a fine-looking class of
people; olive-colored, with black eyes, and long black hair, and of
dignified mien. At that day there were very few foreigners on the
island--only a few missionaries and their families. The women were
fine equestriennes and always presented a picturesque appearance.
There is a famous ride there through what is called the "valley of
death." The legend that gives it this name is this: During one of their
tribal wars the victorious tribe drove their flying foe up this valley,
which terminated in an abrupt precipice of 1000 feet or more,
violently precipitating them into the sea, and, like Pharaoh's hosts of
old, "the waters covered them up" and they were seen no more!
After making quite a stay at Honolulu we sailed for Mazatlan to
gain some information from the United States of the rumored
threatened war with Mexico. Mazatlan lies on the west coast of
Mexico. Here we remained from November 18, 1845, till June 1, 1846.
Six months we passed waiting anxiously for the treaties between the
United States and Mexico, which all seemed tending to war. During
our long stay at this port we sometimes amused ourselves hunting.
The game was fine and abundant. Upon one occasion, going some
distance back in the country to shoot pheasants, a party of us
called at a good-looking cottage on a ranch and asked for
buttermilk. We were invited in, and found a number of nice-looking
women and a few very surly looking Mexicans. We were served
with delightful milk, and left. After we got out of hearing we
remarked to each other upon the cut-throat, brigandish looks of the
men, and decided to be on our guard and within hearing of each
other in our hunt. We were not mistaken in our suspicions. A short
way
from the ranch we noticed the fellows tracking us, guns in hand.
Catching sight of them before they did of us, we changed our
course, taking a direct line to the coast. They evidently intended to
shoot us from the thicket. Notwithstanding this damper to our
enthusiasm as sportsmen, we got up a fine flock of pheasants, and
water fowl from the lake near the sea, returning on board with a nice
lot of game and no disasters.
On the 1st of June, 1846, learning that war had been declared with
Mexico, we set sail for Monterey, where we arrived in safety and
found at anchor the Sloops of War Cyane and Levant. On the 7th
day of July we landed with a strong force and took formal possession
of California, and hoisted the American colors. The name "California"
is said to have been first used in an old book in Spain, and to mean
"Island of Gold." While the legend is incorrect as to California being
an island it may correctly be termed a country of gold, possessing as
it does the richest gold mines yet discovered in the world. California
at the date of which I write was almost an unknown country. A Jesuit
mission was founded there in 1776, and through the rich valleys were
missions, walled to resist the depredations of the natives. In the
grounds surrounding these missions they cultivated the fruits and
vegetables of Europe, which grew so luxuriantly as to surpass
anything ever seen in their native country. The vines, too, grew to
great perfection and the pears were splendid. The grape had become
so popular when we were there that the people of the country would
bring pitchers of home-made wine--a most palatable and delightful
beverage--to refresh us when we went among them. The women were
kind and polite when we had occasion to stop and ask questions, but
the country homes were conspicuous for the absence of the male
members of the family. These were forming in squads or being
organized to resist the invasion of the country. We left on shore a
sufficient number of soldiers
and seamen to hold possession of Monterey, it being at that time the
Capital of California. There was no demonstration by the natives
against our holding peaceable possession of the town.
After properly appointing the city authorities the squadron sailed
for San Francisco to take possession of that point. There landing a
force we immediately proceeded to build a blockhouse to guard
against any attack from a large force. At that time the town of San
Francisco consisted of only about half a dozen frame houses.
Leaving a sufficient force at this place we sailed for the bay of San
Pedro, where we arrived October 7th. On entering the harbor we
passed the American Merchant Ship Vandalia, with a large body of
men on board. She was at anchor. She saluted us with two guns, and
gave three cheers, which we returned. Captain Gillespie, of the
Marine Corps, came on board and reported that he had evacuated the
Puebla de Los Angelos on account of the overpowering force of the
enemy. He retired on board the Vandalia after having spiked his
guns. He also reported that all lower California had risen in arms
against our authorities, headed by Flores, a captain in the Mexican
Army.
We made preparations for landing at daylight the next morning,
when we landed 299 men. A few of the enemy, twenty or thirty men,
were in sight on the Angelos road, a few more showing themselves
and drawn up as if inclined to give battle. At 8 A.M. the entire force,
under command of Captain Mervine, took up the line of march for the
purpose of retaking the Puebla de Los Angelos, the enemy retreating
on the advance of our forces. A whaleboat arrived from San Diego
bringing news that Captain Merritt, a volunteer, had been forced to
retire on the American Ship Stonington, the enemy cutting off all
provisions from them and collecting in great numbers. About 10
o'clock several discharges of artillery were heard distinctly in the
direction of the Angelos road. About
11.30 we discovered our forces returning toward the landing. At 2 P.M.
the expedition arrived at the landing, having encountered the
enemy with a field piece, which they moved from point to point, with
their horses attached. Our men made three gallant charges, chasing
them each time about half a mile, but they being on fine horses would
keep out of musket range, when they would wheel and fire on our
men, killing several. Finding it impossible to capture the gun the
retreat was sounded. Upon arriving at the landing a council of war
was held. It was decided that without horses for hauling a field piece
rapidly it would be useless to make the effort to capture the enemy,
and the forces embarked.
Dispatches being received from San Diego, stating that Captain
Merritt with forty men had taken possession of the town, Lieutenant
George Minor, with Midshipmen Morgan and Duvall and a force of
fifty men, were sent on board the Whale Ship Magnolia to take
passage to San Diego to reinforce Captain Merritt. One week after I
was dispatched in the second cutter to ascertain the condition of
affairs at San Diego, a distance of sixty miles by sea, which I
accomplished successfully, making the trip and returning in four
days, and reported everything in favorable condition. We now got
under way and sailed for San Francisco, where we found the enemy
operating in the valley of Santa Clara. An expedition was at once
ordered to be fitted out, and knowing from our sad experience at San
Pedro the want of cavalry, I was ordered in our launch to transport
from the north to the south side of the bay a number of horses. It was
a difficult feat, but I accomplished it. My last load of horses, six in
number, got very restless and could not be managed. I expected
every moment to see them stamp holes in the bottom of the launch,
when all hands would be lost. I determined therefore to jump them
overboard. It was truly wonderful to see the instinct of the animals.
They struck out for the
shore, though a mile or two distant. To my great surprise
we found them all the next morning safely on shore
near where they landed. We now landed from the ship
a force of blue jackets and marines, with a field piece,
accompanied by the cavalry, and started in pursuit of the
enemy.
FROM sources apparently reliable we learned that the enemy
were in force in the neighborhood of Santa Clara Mission. We made
easy marches, coming to camp about sunset, always sending some
cavalry ahead to select a camping ground and butcher beeves in
readiness for our arrival. After the fatiguing march of the day we
would arrive at camp thoroughly prepared in appetite to enjoy the
California beef. The cattle grazing on the rich grasses and wild oats
of the fertile valleys were superbly fine. "Jack Tar," with his brother
marines, would sit round the camp fires and roast his rib of beef with
as much zest and pleasure as though he were native to the plains.
The second morning after leaving the ship the courier came in and
reported the enemy in camp in a piece of redwoods up in the hills. As
it was a rough road ascending the hills, the artillery piece and the
infantry were ordered to keep in the plains, while the cavalry were
detailed to reconnoitre and ascertain the exact locality and force of
the enemy. Being mounted myself, I obtained permission to
accompany the cavalry. We were armed with carbines and revolvers.
At early dawn we started on the march. A thick fog enveloped the
hillsides, and here occurred one of those strange phenomena--an
optical illusion Three of us were riding abreast, somewhat in advance
of the column. Simultaneously each of us cocked and raised our
carbines to our shoulders to fire upon what seemed to be a few
cavalrymen of the enemy coming toward us down the hill. The next
instant the fog cleared and instead of the cavalry we found only a
clump of bushes! We proceeded up the hill, using great caution, and
in silence. Upon reaching the summit we discovered
the camp of the enemy, just abandoned. We followed
their trail down into the plains again, and soon rifle shots
were heard and our scouts came in and reported the enemy
just ahead of us, in large force, mounted. We had by
this time joined our infantry and field piece. We
advanced upon them, they firing indiscriminately from
their horses, and retreating as we advanced. They
evidently meant to draw us on to the open prairie beyond,
where they could maneuver their cavalry to greater
advantage. As we emerged from the timber land the enemy
surrounded us, and dismounting from their horses, were
completely hid by the tall prairie grass and commenced a
rapid fire upon our body of men. We returned the fire,
aiming only at the smoke from the discharge of their guns,
for neither men nor horses could be seen. I now worked
the field piece to great advantage, loading with grape and
canister, and trained the gun on the point from which came
the greatest discharge of the foe. The grape and canister
tearing through the high grass would flush the fellows
from their cover like a covey of partridges before a fowling
piece, when they would mount their horses and ride to a
more respectful distance. In this way we carried on a running
fight till we neared the old Mission of Santa Clara.
The occupants, who had crossed the mountains and taken
refuge in the old mission, came out joyfully to join us in
the fight. Very soon the Californians were routed and
dispersed in all directions. We were received with great
joy by our countrymen from the East who had crossed the
plains and the mountains. Early the next morning a
courier came in from the enemy to treat for peace. The
offer was accepted, on condition that they deliver up all
arms and horses that had been unjustly taken from the
people and that they retire to their homes and become
peaceful citizens. These terms were accepted, as that
distant territory of Mexico had little in sympathy with the
government. The large drove of horses captured were
driven into a corral and we saw for the first time the dexterity
with which they used the lasso. Citizens coming in and claiming
their horses, such animals were immediately lassoed and turned over
to the owners. It is said that the California boy, as soon as he can run
around the yard, uses his lariat in catching chickens, dogs, cats, and
all the domestic animals for their infantile sport, as the American boy
would play marbles. The guns were all stacked up in piles, and
presented a motley appearance of ancient fowling pieces that would
have done credit to Falstaff's ragged regiment, and were calculated to
do more harm to the persons using them than to those against whom
they were directed. This no doubt accounted for the fact that only
one of our men was wounded in the engagement of the previous day.
We remained at the Mission of Santa Clara several days, till all
hostilities were quieted, amusing ourselves hunting wild geese that
covered the plains around Santa Clara in such numbers that when
they rose for flight they almost obscured the sun like a cloud. We
found them excellent food, and took numbers of them on board the
ship. A courier was dispatched to the commodore reporting the
treaty made with the Californians and their quiet retirement to their
homes. Boats were then sent to the head of the bay, where we
embarked our artillery piece and infantry forces, and returned to our
ships, the cavalry returning by land to San Francisco. Thus ended
our military operations against this peaceful people, who cared more
for tending their flocks and herds and sitting "in the shadow of their
own vine and fig tree" than they did for warfare. General Fremont had
reached the Pacific Coast, crossing the plains and the Rocky
Mountains with a force of cavalry woodsmen from the Western
country, and his presence there had a most beneficial effect in
suppressing any disturbances through the interior while the Navy
garrisoned the seaports.
We sailed from San Francisco for the harbor of Monterey, and on
the 18th of March, 1847, the joyful call of the boatswain and his
mates, "all hands up anchor for home,"
resounded through our ship. A salute of thirteen guns was fired in
passing the Frigate Independence, the flagship of Commodore
Stockton, who had assumed command of the Pacific Squadron. We
manned the rigging and gave three hearty cheers, and stood to sea.
After a long and very monotonous voyage we came to anchor in
the harbor of Valparaiso, with several cases of scurvy showing itself
among our crew, the result of living without vegetables. On the 24th
day of May we hoisted the English flag at the fore and the American
at the main and mizzen in honor of the birthday of Victoria, Queen of
England. On the 28th of May Lieutenant Commanding Neil M.
Howison left the ship to return to the United States by the way of
the Isthmus of Panama as bearer of dispatches from Commodore J.
Biddle to the Government at Washington. On the 31st of May we
stood to sea on our homeward passage. Off Cape Horn we
encountered heavy gales, as usual off that stormy coast, and
welcomed the more moderate temperature and pleasant sailing when
we reached the South Atlantic.
Standing to the northward on the 21st of July we exchanged
numbers with the U. S. Frigate Columbia at anchor in the harbor of
Rio Janeiro. We saluted the broad pennant of Commodore L.
Rousseau with thirteen guns, which was returned with the same
number. We anchored in this beautiful harbor, and here got the
news of the surrender of Vera Cruz to our Army and Navy; also of
the battle of Buena Vista, where General Taylor, with 5000 men, had
been victorious over Santa Anna with 20,000. On the 27th His
Excellency Henry A. Wise, U. S. Minister to Brazil, visited the ship.
We manned the yards and saluted him with seventeen guns. On the
28th of July we hove up anchor and made sail for the harbor of New
York, at which port we arrived about the middle of September,
rejoiced to reach our native shores after a long, arduous and eventful
cruise, with successful duty and service in the Mexican War.
THE joy of the home coming of a sailor after years of absence is
something that can scarcely be imagined by one who has never
known long absences from friends or found "a home on the ocean
wave." In the course of a week we were all detached from our ship,
where we had passed over four years, and while happy in the
thought of reaching our homes, there was pain in parting from those
with whom we had been associated as one family for so long a time.
Of course we might hope to meet again, but things, places, persons,
surroundings would "never be as they had been;" and change, the
universal change that is written on all human affairs, brought over
our hearts and spirits a sadness known only to parting friends. Mine
was perhaps the most distant home to reach. Now began my fears as
a sailor of the mode of land travel by railroad. I was possessed with
the idea that I might be killed before I could reach the seaboard of
Georgia, and not until I reached home did I draw a long and
comfortable breath! Sailors are universally believed to be very
superstitious creatures, and I dare say as a boy I had my visions of
"flying Dutchmen," ghosts, dreams, etc., but maturer years have
shattered these follies as the baseless fabric of dreams and I have
learned to look through Nature in all her grandeur and beauty up to
Nature's God! I could only spend a few weeks in the home of my
childhood, as my class were all assembled at Annapolis (the Naval
Academy) studying hard for the coming examination in the spring.
On my arrival in Annapolis I was placed in the room with some of my
friends and companions of the Pacific Squadron who had preceded
me and were applying themselves with all diligence to their books.
The earnestness with which they
went to work in the evenings after lamps were lit gave me serious
alarm lest I should never be able to school myself to such close
application. These roommates, who have proved the friends of my
life, Robert D. Minor, of the grand old Commonwealth of Virginia;
Robert C. Duvall, of the old North State, and Abercrombie, of
Maryland, making the quartette of our room. Let me introduce my
roommates more clearly as they stand reflected pictures, as it were,
on the walls of the sacred halls of memory! Duvall, or as we called
him, "Duvy," was the eldest, and stood 6 feet 3 inches in height, as
noble and generous in every impulse of his true warm heart as he
was grand in stature as a man. He applied himself with so much zeal
and closeness to his studies that he was stricken down with fever.
His restless nights were made miserable by his endeavor to work the
difficult problems of his geometry lessons even in his delirium or
sleep. He would wake unrefreshed in the morning, declaring "if he
could only solve those problems, he thought he might get well."
Finally the problems were all solved and he did grow strong and well
again. Abercrombie, always mild and pleasant, I see him in my mind's
eye rubbing his head (already a little bald), vowing vengeance
against old Chauvenet, our professor in mathematics, for giving us
such long and difficult lessons to try our souls. Bob Minor--our
youngest, jolliest, happiest boy! Quick to learn and master his
lessons, as quick to laugh at those who had not been so fortunate;
always first to close his book, with a most triumphant smile, and
exclaim, "Ready for bed!"
Our room, unfortunately, was located at the head of the stairs on
the second floor of the building known as "Rowdy Row." It was
often the pleasure of those for whom it was named to make night
hideous with their frolics. One favorite amusement of theirs was to
get a number of 32-pound balls from the battery near by and, taking
them up the flight of stairs to the end of the long piazza, roll them
in quick succession the length of the piazza, where they would go
thumping down the steps with the noise of thunder, rousing the
sleeping inmates of the building. There was no use trying to hunt up
the perpetrators of this mischievous performance--they were always
"soundly sleeping." Similar annoyances were carried on throughout
by those who were not caring for the approaching examination. I am
glad to state, though, that we had in that day none of those
disgraceful, cruel hazings that are now practiced and are so criminal.
Upon the approach of Christmas I received a box from home--and
herein I must relate a hard joke on myself. Among other things came
an enormous fruit cake. Of course I had "to make merry with my
friends" and give a Christmas entertainment. After smuggling in a
few bottles of wine--for what would the cake be without the
accompanying refreshment?--I found I had forgotten the all-important
corkscrew (though I had furnished a few wine glasses). What was to
be done? We resorted to the only means to get at the wine. Snapping
the necks of the bottles with a quick stroke of a knife (which was
accomplished dexterously), our feast began. We enjoyed both cake
and wine "hugely," as our English cousins would say, but oh, the
consequences! Next morning there was a tale to be told. I--the host--was
ill, very ill. I at once dispatched a messenger for the surgeon,
fearing I could not survive till he came. I freely unbosomed to him my
violation of all school discipline, and he, like a true medical adviser,
did not betray the confidence of his patient. I heard nothing of my
secret and impromptu entertainment, and was much relieved in mind
and body by the good doctor's visit, he assuring me that violent and
acute dyspepsia, and not broken glass, which I supposed I had
swallowed, was the root of the trouble! Since that fateful night I have
never had a weakness for fruit cake--no matter how black or rich--but I
regret to say I have always had a tendency to dyspepsia, a reminder
of youthful
folly! After the Christmas holidays I applied myself most
earnestly to my books, and passed a fairly creditable examination--
that is, in a class of 200 I passed number 27. This class was a
celebrated one and passed some remarkable men--men who are now
the head of the Federal Navy; but many of the most gifted gave up
their positions and stood by and were true to their Southern homes.
Among these W. H. Parker, who took the first honor in the class,
shared with Catesby Jones of glorious memory!
From the Naval School I was ordered to join the Sloop of War
Albany at Norfolk. Norfolk is a famous old seaport town, renowned
for pretty girls; and being one of the principal Stations, or Navy
Yards, had always an abundance of young Navy Officers on hand.
Our accomplished classmate Wm. H. Parker here found his bride, one
of the belles and beauties of Norfolk. After a lapse of many years I
was very happy in meeting them both at the unveiling of the statue
to General R. E. Lee in Richmond, Virginia, both well preserved and
happy. Norfolk in those old times was very gay, and we, being much
elevated at the insignia of passed midshipmen on our uniforms, were
prepared to add to the gaiety.
We were some months in fitting out the ship, and by early fall
sailed for the West Indies, a delightful cruise through the Windward
Islands. This cruise, however, was destined to be of short duration.
While we were anchored at Fort du France--the memorable home of
Josephine in the Island of Martinique--there was a want of harmony
between the lieutenants and the passed midshipmen which resulted
in an order that we should perform strictly the duties of midshipmen,
such as "calling the watch, and lighting the candle of the lieutenant
who had to go on duty." It so happened that the first order was
given to me. I declined to obey it, stating that the duty had been
previously performed by the quartermasters, I considered it a menial
service, and would not do it. The lieutenant of the watch urged me
strongly to do it, or he "would
have to report me for disobedience of orders." I replied that "I had
made up my mind fully to perform no menial duty and that he was at
liberty to report me," which he did. I was then summoned into the
presence of a very irate gentleman, Captain Victor M. Randolph, of
Virginia. He stormed at me violently; said he "would have me court
martialed and dismissed from the service." I very quietly told him "I
would not obey the order."
Thereupon he directed the lieutenant to "suspend me from duty
and report the case to the first lieutenant of the ship in the morning."
The three other passed midshipmen in like manner refused to obey
the order and were also suspended, making a very strong case of
"mutinous insubordination." We continued our cruise along the
south side of San Domingo and Cuba, stopping in at various ports,
which we, however, under suspension, were never allowed to visit.
This continued for three months, when the confinement so affected
our health that the kind old surgeon, Dr. Spotswood, reported that
the "passed midshipmen must be permitted to visit the shore for
exercise," which requirement was granted and our health improved.
From Cuba we ran down to Vera Cruz, where we met the flagship of
the squadron, and charges were preferred against us without delay.
The commodore ordered our ship immediately to the Pensacola Navy
Yard, the rendezvous of the Gulf Squadron, he following soon after.
On arriving at Pensacola a court martial was ordered for our trial. Here
at Pensacola I made the acquaintance of Lieutenant Raphael Semmes,
who had just been admitted to the bar of Alabama. He had shortly
before this obtained a leave of absence from the Navy Department for
the purpose of studying law. He little dreamed then the important part
this knowledge of international law would bear on his future life, so
thoroughly fitting him for his work in after years while in command of
the world-renowned Confederate States Steamer Alabama.
But to return to the court martial. He very generously tendered his
services as counsel in our case. His distinguished ability, however,
was not sufficient to overcome the precedent which custom had
made a law. The result of the trial was our "dismissal from the service
for wilful disobedience of orders." To show that the sentiment of our
brother officers was with us, and that they approved our
appreciation of our position as officers in objecting to doing menial
duty, after the sentence of the court one of its members, who resided
in Pensacola, gave us a very handsome reception, inviting all friends
to meet us before we departed for our homes.
I found my way into upper Georgia, where my mother's family were
spending the summer in the little town of Roswell. After a rest, a
friend, Daniel Stuart Elliott, and I took a buggy and made a tour of
upper Georgia, stopping each nightfall at country houses, where we
enjoyed some rare fun and experiences with our entertainers--I being
always introduced as a "traveled officer who had seen service in
California and seen a great deal of the outside world." My narrations
about the gold regions may have upset some quiet country homes
and sent some squatters out to the "diggins" across the rockies. One
old man in particular became so enthused he exclaimed, delightedly,
"I am just going to hitch up my team an' take my ole 'oman and that
boy and gal [his children] and start across the plains"--as though he
thought it a day's jaunt or a May-day picnic!
We passed through the little town of Dahlonega, then occupied
by a rough set digging for gold, reported to be abundant in rich
deposits, and where a mint had been established. This town is the
seat of a branch college of the State University, under military
discipline, and an honor to Georgia. From there we went to Tallulah
Falls, enjoying the wild and beautiful scenery. We also
took in on our trip the villages of Clarksville and Gainesville.
One night, in the depths of the country, we came
upon an old and humble hut, but it boasted an independent
proprietor. He refused us shelter, said he "had nobody to feed our
horse," etc.; whereupon we told him we preferred attending to our
animal ourselves. He then remarked, in a surly way, "Thar's the corn-crib,
go feed." We obeyed, and after doing so went into the cabin. He
was very sulky, but we determined to win him over, or talk him into a
good humor. After spinning him a few sea yarns he begged us to
stay with him some days, and really turned out to be a pattern of
hospitality! His house had lately been visited and made headquarters
for the wares of a clock peddler. I think there were at least twenty-five
or thirty clocks of the old-fashioned striking kind--no soft cathedral
bell tones of the present-day clock! All these were wound up, ticking
loud, and no two striking at the same time. If they did not make night
hideous, they certainly made it noisy. The good wife proceeded to
get supper for us, and after enjoying a cup of hot coffee--not made
after the French style--and a comfortable supper we lit our cigars and
drew round the old-fashioned fireplace, and with a fat pine knot to
make the evening's light, we entertained our host and hostess with
more of my travels, every word of which they drank in with evident
delight. We retired at a reasonable hour--but not to sleep. The busy
clocks, with their ceaseless ticking and striking, made the night wild
and weird. I think I learned in that long, sleepless night to value the
blessing of silence!--and we certainly had time drag very heavily on
our hands. We made a very early start the next morning and were
glad to find ourselves in a few hours at the little village of Roswell,
from which we had begun our jaunt, again among family and friends.
THE pleasant little town of Roswell is situated in Cobb County,
and took its name from its founder, Mr. Roswell King, a former
resident of McIntosh County, on the seaboard. Its society was made
up mostly of low country families of culture and refinement. The
sisters of Captain James D. Bulloch, whose name is now famous in
history as the agent of the Confederate Navy abroad, were great
belles; also Miss Mary Lewis, who afterwards became the wife of
one of Georgia's most distinguished physicians, Dr. Wm. Gaston
Bulloch, of Savannah. I must here pay a passing tribute to this lady's
grace on horseback; she has always been my ideal of an
equestrienne, and I recall with pleasure our delightful rides together
through the beautiful region of upper Georgia that pleasant summer.
Captain Bulloch has made a valuable contribution to history in his
able work, entitled "Secret Service of the Confederate Navy
Abroad." He further distinguished himself by superintending the
construction of the famous War Steamer Alabama, and his
successful ruse in getting her out of English waters,--but more of
that hereafter.
The autumn found us wending our way coastward and homeward.
It also found me filled with restless discontent and longing for the
service in which I had begun my life and to which I was so much
attached. This I think prompted my friends to look forward with hope
to having me reinstated (feeling that I had in nowise tarnished my
honor as an officer in the United States Navy) to my lost place. My
venerable and distinguished relative, Hon. Thos. Spalding, of Sapelo
Island, was a life-long friend of Hon. J. McPherson Berrien, Georgia's
distinguished lawyer and Senator, though they had in their middle
life
been estranged through political differences. To him my relative
generously offered to write, and took the opportunity of referring to
their earlier days, in memory of which he desired him to do him the
favor of using his influence in having me restored to the Navy. This
letter, so well worthy of publication, a copy of which was sent to
my mother, I herewith insert.
HON. J. MCPHERSON BERRIEN,
SIR: You will no doubt be surprised in the relation we have stood to each
other for some years to receive a letter from me,--but at seventy-six years
old it is time to sweep from my mind any dust that has been scattered over it.
As I owe to politics neither honors nor profits in my long life, it may be but
just that I should not be deprived by politics of the good-will of even one
gentleman.
John Kell, with three other young gentlemen from different States (passed
midshipmen), have all been dismissed from the service for declining to light the
lieutenants to or from the ward room.
This was certainly a most extraordinary order, and I was greatly surprised,
knowing the character that John Kell in eight years' service had acquired with
five different commanders, had not received it smilingly and obeyed it in the
same mood, for such an order could only degrade him that gave, not him that
obeyed it. This I told John Kell this morning when I gave him promise of this
letter, and he assured me "that his refusal to obey originated solely in his respect
for what he believed to be his grade in the Navy." With this impression on my
mind I ask you to read the evidences given on the court martial of these young
gentlemen, and if they have been wronged, and if a remedy is within reach, you
will best know after such examination. John Kell has under five commanders
been highly spoken of by all, and I understand that the other young men stood
well in their several situations. John Kell's letters to his mother and sisters for
eight years past have been given me for my perusal. They display great ability
as well as correct observation of all around him, and would well have borne
publication. But there is one act of his life which will reach the feelings of any
father--when he entered the service he applied a part of his pay to the education
of his younger brother.
In our many years of intercourse there is one circumstance of my early life I
do not remember mentioning to you, the attachment of your mother to my
Aunt Hester McIntosh, the grandmother of John Kell. I remember that she
communicated to us your mother's death, and that she had watched over her in
her last illness; she had received from her
some little poems in manuscript. The interest my aunt felt was communicated
to my young mind, I being a younger brother to her, and now after sixty-six
years there remains upon my memory several lines of your mother's monody,
on her brother, that fell with Montgomery at the gates of Quebec. There
remains also on my memory two playful lines of hers upon John Hustace
whom she had met in Philadelphia when he was the aide of General Lee.
Hustace was the wittiest, but the vainest young man (and the most presumptuous) in the Army.
"Alexis, with grace, can toy a lady's fan--
Has every art to be a beau, but none to be the man."
The whole life of this young man shows the correct opinion your mother
had formed of him. But my letter has grown too long.
Respectfully yours,
THOS. SPALDING.
Fortified by this letter I set out for Washington City, and
immediately called upon Senator Berrien, and was received by this
grand gentleman with a hearty welcome and courtliness of manner
which impressed me with respect and admiration. After reading the
letter he expressed the greatest pleasure and satisfaction in being
able to accede to the wish of his friend. He said he would review the
proceedings of the court martial and do all in his power for my
reinstatement. He forthwith took the matter in hand. I remained in
Washington city some weeks, but soon after my return home
received the official information of my reinstatement, with the other
passed mid-shipmen, to our former rank and position, losing a year's
pay, that being the time we were out of the service. I at once applied
for orders to sea, and was soon gratified with instructions to proceed
at once to Philadelphia to join the United State Frigate
Susquehanna, there fitting out for a cruise to the East Indies,
bearing the broad pennant of Commodore Aulick, with Captain
Inman as his flag officer. I left home in the spring of 1851 for another
long and very interesting cruise.
Upon passing through the city of Charleston, South Carolina, I
learned that the world-renowned songstress,
"Jenny Lind, the Swedish Nightingale," would sing that night. I
remained over for the purpose of hearing her. The memory of her
sweet voice has remained with me ever since as one of the greatest
musical privileges of my life.
The next morning I took steamer for Wilmington in the face of a
heavy northeast gale of wind, and after a boisterous passage
reached my destination in safety. Upon reporting to the commodore
at Philadelphia he informed me that the Frigate Susquehanna had the
day before sailed for Norfolk to complete her outfit. He gave me
orders to proceed to that point and report for duty to the commander,
which I did. On reaching Norfolk I found the officers all quartered on
shore and that it would be a month or more before she could get to
sea. I enjoyed very much meeting again my old Navy friends and
former companions, also my lady friends at Norfolk, from which port
we sailed on the memorable cruise in the Albany, from which ship I
had been court martialed. I took up my lodging at a boarding house
on Portsmouth Point, where a number of Navy officers with their
families found temporary homes. We enjoyed social life here very
much indeed. Among the boarders was a fine old gentleman from the
Eastern Shore of Maryland, Major Hall, of the Marine Corps. Passed
Midshipman Bennett and I roomed together. Daily as we met at
dinner the Major would send his decanter of wine, asking the
pleasure of a glass of wine with Bennett and myself. This we highly
appreciated, but could not return the compliment, being rather young
for the privilege of keeping wine for our use at table in the presence
of ladies. We therefore determined to give the Major a wine supper in
our room before we sailed. Accordingly, we laid in a basket of
champagne and some of the choicest wines the market of Norfolk
afforded, accompanied with nuts, raisins, olives, cigars, etc. We also
invited a few officers to meet the Major. It is pleasant to recall at this
day the memory of that very convivial party that surrounded our
table, and the tales told by the genial
Major, our honored guest, who was the personification of the old
school gentleman, for which the Eastern Shore was so renowned.
Toward the "wee sma' hours" we escorted the Major to his room, not
without the assistance of his good wife, however, who came for him,
his youthful hosts and escorts being about as much disabled by the
festivities of the evening, so jovially spent, as was the honored
guest himself!
Youth has its joys as well as its follies, and what could matter the
headaches that followed such lordly fun--that lightened our purses
and our hearts? Soon after this royal entertainment we joined our
ship and set sail for the Island of Madeira. We took on board our
Minister to Brazil, Mr. Yancey, and his family as guests of the
commodore. We had a pleasant voyage to Madeira, and enjoyed the
scenery and climate of that delightful island. Madeira is a great
health resort for the English invalids. They have added to the
picturesque appearance of the south side of the island by building
beautiful homes and villas there. This island is world-renowned for
the wine made there that bears its name. It is famous for its convent
and the lovely lace work done by the nuns, in both of which the
officers invested. I laid in several quarter casks of south side
Madeira, which was much enhanced in value by its four-years' cruise
around the world. Upon my arrival at home I put the wine in glass,
and during the Civil War our faithful old carriage driver carefully
buried it, and although the old home was often raided by the enemy,
the old negro was faithful to his trust and resurrected and returned it
after the war. A sale of a portion of this wine came in good time to
replenish my empty pocket book at the close of the war. I still retain a
few bottles to make merry on state occasions, such as weddings.
When I first returned from the China cruise in 1855 a dozen bottles of
this wine were used at the wedding of my cousin, the daughter of
Commodore James McKay McIntosh, and some months later at my
own wedding. Some years ago at the wedding
in my own house of a favorite niece a bottle of the wine was
used at forty-five years of age, with a bouquet and flavor
unsurpassed. Some years later it was used to drink to the health and
happiness of my beloved daughter upon her marriage.
But to return to my cruise and the beautiful Island of Madeira.
Horseback riding was a great diversion on the island, a peculiar
feature of which was that the hostler from whom you hired the beast
enjoyed running along side of you and occasionally relieved the
weariness of his run by swinging on to the tail of the horse. The
hostler wore a remarkable cap with a keen pointed end sticking erect
from his head, the cap just covering his scalp, which stuck so closely
that it must have been kept on by suction. The view to which this
really historic ride led was grand in the extreme. It presented the
precipitous northern side of the island upon which the waves of the
ocean continuously and wildly beat its even monotone, a contrast
indeed to the south side, which is a garden of luxurious beauty,
where rose geranium and other sweet plants (to us exotics) grow wild
and in great profusion, loading the air with perfume, and the grape
vine covers every available spot. After enjoying our national holiday,
July 4, on this garden spot of Nature, we set sail for Rio Janeiro. We
experienced some very rough weather on our passage, and
discovered our mainmast sprung, which necessitated hoisting it out
and making proper repairs. For this purpose we obtained permission
from the Brazilian Government to go into dock, where we were
detained a month or two. Captain Inman was here detached from the
ship with orders to return home, leaving the command immediately to
Commodore Aulick. During our long stay in port we had the
opportunity of seeing much of this grand city, built upon a
magnificent bay along whose shores are dotted here and there
villages of rare beauty, adorned with tropical foliage; in the distance
rise the Organ Mountains, remarkable for their tapering peaks and
presenting some
of the grandest views of any harbor in the world. This
city is famous for the beauty of its cathedrals and other
public buildings. The inhabitants are largely foreign,
especially French and Portuguese. The handling of coffee
forms the principal part of their trade. One of our
greatest pleasures was to ride along the shores of this beautiful
bay and visit the Botanical Gardens, a few miles from
the city. The walks of these gardens are lined with colossal
palms on either side, forming avenues of beauty, and
the gardens are filled with every variety of rare plant and
shrub of the tropics. Although in latitude 22° 56' south,
the vast quantity of water of the Southern Hemisphere
tempers the climate so as to make fires unnecessary, except
for culinary purposes, and all the fruits of the tropics
grow profusely and Nature wears an aspect of wild luxuriance
as though perpetually basking in the sunshine and
smile of the Great Creator.
The plumage of the birds in Brazil is gorgeous. The variety,
especially of the little humming bird, is very wonderful. Even insect
life is rainbow hued, and the beetle is so rich and gemlike as often to
be set in gold and worn as jewelry. The nuns in their seclusion work
up the brilliant feathers of the birds into flowers, rivaling Nature
itself. Among the handsomest of these they imitate the variegated
camellia japonica and the superb carnation, both among the fairest of
flowers.
UNDER the reign of Dom Pedro II. the Empire of Brazil advanced
rapidly in civilization and the fine arts. He invited to his empire talent
of every kind, and rewarded it with magnanimous liberality. The
officers of our ship had the honor of a reception paid us by the
emperor and empress upon their visit to the Navy Yard. The emperor
seemed indifferent and ill at ease, but the empress was peculiarly
graceful and charming in manner, saluting us with smiles of
recognition. After completing our repairs we reluctantly bade adieu
to this beautiful city and made sail for the Cape of Good Hope on our
way to the China Seas, or, as we term it in naval parlance, for the
"East India Station." Our run across the South Atlantic had no
remarkable features and we arrived at Table Bay after a pleasant and
eventless passage. The reception and welcome we met with there
from our "English cousins" was warm and refreshing after the
contact and intercourse with nations of other tongues. We
entertained and in return enjoyed the hospitality of the English
families sojourning at the Cape. There were assembled at that time a
large number of English people, the soldiers of whose families were
engaged in the Kaffir War.
Like all military stations, there was great gaiety and mirth,
notwithstanding the nearness to the seat of war. Table Bay is an
open roadstead to the northward and westward, and at seasons of
northwesterly gales subject to the sea swells of the South Atlantic
Ocean. Fortunately, we did not encounter any of these gales. The
city of Cape Town is built in crescent shape around this horseshoe
harbor, running back to the hills that rise and form the remarkable
Table Mountain. Near Cape Town is
located the celebrated vineyard where the "Constantia wine"
is made. Occasionally we would ride out to enjoy the
hospitality of its proprietor and quaff that famous wine, so
exquisite, but now little known to the wine markets of the
world.
After leaving the city and its suburbs and crossing the point
of the cape to Simon Town, where is located the naval station
and a more secure anchorage, one passes over deserts of sand
over which a wind called the "harmattan" blows with great
force and fury, obliging one to veil the face to protect the eyes
from the refraction of the sun's rays as well as the sand. A
remarkable hostelry on this lonely road attracts attention,
famous only for its name, however,--"The Gentle Shepherd
of Salisbury Plains,"--and we found a good glass of beer and
cheese quite a refreshment and very acceptable after our ride.
From Table Bay we made sail around the Cape, still shaping
our course eastward. Our next harbor was that of the poetic
harbor of Mauritius, said to have been the home of "Paul and
Virginia." This tender love story has delighted the youth of
many climes and nations. Our first visit after arrival in port
was to their graves, where we gathered some flowers from
the tomb of this hero and heroine of romance, and returned on
board ship quite pleased with our little jaunt. Here also we
entertained many visitors on board. One striking beauty among
our young lady visitors was a Parsee wearing in her nose a
magnificent diamond. Her father, who accompanied her, was
a fine-looking man, wearing a spotless turban of white on his
close-shaved head, and his entire costume a revelation of
neatness. He was said to be worth millions of pounds sterling.
The island of Mauritius is remarkable for its rich production of
spices, among the most beautiful of which is the nutmeg
growing very much in size and shape like an apple tree. The
nut is enclosed in a covering similar to the hickory nut, and
when ripe cracks open in the same manner,
showing the mace of commerce wrapped around an inner
shell which encloses the nutmeg. We procured many
specimens in their half-ripe state and brought them home in
alcohol as beautiful curios.
Our next port was the very interesting Island of Ceylon.
Before reaching the island some amusing incidents occurred
on board ship. While far at sea, almost out of sight of land, we
were boarded by small boats, conveying merchants of precious
stones and gems. Many of these were frauds and cheats no
doubt manufactured of glass. The junior officers invested
largely, especially my friend Bennett (I will not say how many
I purchased), but I was one of the fortunate ones, for among
my stones was found a moss agate with an exquisite fossil
fern in it, which was beautiful and much admired; but some of
the juniors no doubt proved the truth of the old adage, "all is
not gold that glitters."
After arriving in port, ready for pleasure of every kind,
Bennett and I visited the hotel, which was kept in fine English
style, and had to lunch with us an enthusiastic native of
pleasant manner and deportment. He suggested a drive out to
the cinnamon gardens. We ordered a conveyance and invited
him to join us. He proved a very good guide, and pointed out to
us the various beauties of the drive. One striking feature was a
grove of cocoanut trees through which we drove for more
than a mile. Under these trees were built numerous cabins or
huts, built of the cocoanut tree. He told us that the native who
owned such a grove was considered rich. He at once
possessed everything needed for comfort. The tree was his
building material; the hull of the nut supplied his cooking and
household utensils; the oil was the light for burning; the fruit
itself eaten in every stage, and the milk his draught. His chairs
or seats were made from the tree and his roof thatched with
the leaves. Then what a delicious food the nut. Upon reaching
the cinnamon gardens we passed through walks bordered by
the fragrant shrub from
which the cinnamon bark is gathered for commerce. In these
beautiful gardens were many rare plants of the tropics, and
through memory ran the old strain of the grand missionary
hymn of the English Church so frequently sung at home,
"What though spicy breezes
Blow soft o'er Ceylon's isle;
Though every prospect pleases,
And only man is vile."
We spent here a most delightful afternoon, and only returned
to our ship with the setting of the sun. Our new friend, the
guide, had evidently taken a fancy to us and cordially invited us
to join him in a shooting excursion, stating that English snipe
were to be found in great numbers on the marshes of fresh
water along the quiet little streams. On an appointed day we
met him on shore, fully equipped for a shooting bout. Getting
into a comfortable conveyance we drove a little distance into
the interior, and upon reaching a beautiful fresh water stream
we found prepared for us a "float," being two dugout canoes
attached to each other, with a cocoanut thatched roof
overhead to protect us from the sun, a platform upon which
were placed chairs for us to be seated, a table upon which was
a decanter of arack (a native drink), and a bunch of bananas
hanging from the roof. A couple of Indian boys on hand
paddled our craft while we shot the numerous water fowl as
we floated down the stream. This was Oriental pastime in true
Oriental style! On reaching the flats for snipe shooting we put
our boats to the shore and landed. We found snipe in plenty,
had fine sport shooting, and carried a feast to our messmates.
This day's hunt proving so successful, it was suggested by our
new friend that we take an elephant hunt with him, but the
preparation for this, and the distance to be traveled so far, and
our time so limited, we could not enjoy so great a diversion,
and most reluctantly had to forego the pleasure.
We witnessed in this port, however, the remarkable use of the
elephant as a beast of burden in loading and unloading the shipping,
taking the place of our portable steam engine. It was truly wonderful
to see the intelligence of these enormous creatures, and very
amusing, too. As the bell rung to cease work for dinner each elephant
would stop instanter and wait to be led off to his own dinner. Among
the curios I picked up at this port were two elephants carved out of
ebony.
I never see an elephant without being reminded of an incident of
my early boyhood, showing the viciousness of the beast. In those
days of "long ago" the "old John Robinson Shows," as they were
called, went through the country on foot, taking the public road. We
as children went wild with delight. I had a schoolfellow and playmate
named James Pepper, a very mischievous youngster. We "took in"
the circus together. The keeper allowed us, under his chaperonage, to
inspect "Tip," the huge elephant, very closely, for of course with
boyish curiosity we were greatly interested in him. We made friends
with Tip by giving him apples, peanuts, or anything to please him.
But James on the sly gave him an oyster shell, which was not much to
his taste! The next day we went again to the circus, and no sooner
did Tip spy my friend James than he made at him with a snort of
revengeful anger horrible to witness, and but for the timely
interference of the keeper would no doubt have killed him on the
spot! The keeper in great alarm roared, "Boy, what have you done to
Tip?" The culprit had to acknowledge his mischief, and was charged
"never to go to another circus to which Tip was attached, for Tip
would never forget or forgive him." This little incident has been told
my own children, with the moral, "Never to be unkind to dumb
creatures," making my playmate's name a household word. I am glad
to say when I heard last of James Pepper he was a highly respected
deacon in the Presbyterian Church, with all the mischief of his
childhood flown with those early days.
FROM Ceylon we set sail, or rather steamed, to the Island of
Penang, at the entrance of the Straits of Sumatra. This island, like
Ceylon, is under the British flag, and here we met the hearty English
welcome.
We remained here only a few days, but long enough for a party of
us to accept an invitation from our consul to visit him and spend the
night at his bungalow on the hills, several hundred feet above the
town. After landing we were first taken in conveyances peculiar to
the island, drawn by small but tough little horses, to the foot of the
hills, when leaving the conveyances we were comfortably mounted
on the backs of similar small horses and ascended a steep and
rugged path. Our steeds were as sure-footed as goats, and bore us
safely up the ascent. Upon reaching the bungalow we had presented
to us a scene of luxury and comfort only to be appreciated in the hot
and sultry clime of the East Indies. The house was a low, rambling
structure, with spacious halls and verandas, with every conceivable
form of easy chair, lounges, etc., made of bamboo and rattan. The
grounds surrounding the house were most beautifully laid out by a
tasteful landscape gardener, and filled with rare and handsome
shrubs and plants. The atmosphere was pure and bracing, entirely
different from the sultry breezes below, where our ship lay in port,
and from which we had been glad to escape for a few hours. It was a
refreshing, restful night of enjoyment. The breakfast next morning
was unsurpassed for Eastern luxury. The delicious fresh currie
served up hot and steaming in all its perfection, the coffee faultless,
and all the fruits of the tropics to feast the eye for beauty and add
zest to the appetite. The currie here prepared is a very
different article, eaten fresh, from the powder we use at
home as a condiment for dressing up our stews, and must
be eaten in the East Indies to be appreciated. After
breakfast our ponies were brought to the door and we left
the hospitable bungalow. By noon we were again on
board the ship. Remaining in this port but a day or two
longer, we proceeded on our course to the port of Singapore,
situated at the extreme point of the Peninsula of
Malacca. This port is largely occupied by English merchants,
who have their residences and grounds beautifully
decorated. They were always ready to entertain with lavish
hospitality.
On visiting the shore we noticed the stuffed skins of the
tiger, famous on this peninsula for their destruction of the
natives, and indeed of all persons who venture beyond the
thickly-settled towns and villages. He is called the "man-eating tiger,"
and is a great terror to all. The city of
Singapore is one of great importance as the trading place
of the islands of the Malay Archipelago. Being a free
port, the shipping of all the East center there in large
numbers, while the trade of China makes an annual visit,
coming down the China Sea with the northeast monsoon,
laying up their junks at Singapore during the continuance of
that wind, and returning home with the southwest
monsoon. The jungles of this peninsula are of dense
growth and inhabited by the most ferocious beasts. As
a sort of compensation of Nature their birds are very beautiful,
with brilliant, gorgeous plumage. I purchased here
some rare specimens, ready for the taxidermist's hand.
Among the great variety were two grand birds of paradise
and the rarer "harp bird." These birds I had mounted
and very handsomely set up in glass cases in New York.
They adorned my home till in the fortunes of war they fell
into vandal hands and were wantonly destroyed. We also
procured here some handsome specimens of "Malacca
joint," so highly prized as walking canes. Even at the
date of which I write the predominance of Chinese tradesmen
men was very marked in this port. The climate of Singapore is very
salubrious, the thermometer seldom rising above 85 degrees in
summer or lower than 70 degrees in winter. The foliage of course is
beautiful, for there Nature wears a garb of evergreen.
From Singapore we sailed for Hong Kong. One remarkable feature
of some of these Eastern seas are the schools of snakes through
which ships pass. We arrived at Hong Kong, where we met some of
our naval vessels, and Commodore Aulick took formal command of
the East India Squadron. Here again we greeted the English flag, the
emblem of that great power and nation of which it is truly said "the
sun never sets on its dominions." We had now sailed over half the
circumference of the globe, and after leaving Cape Town every port
we entered was a colony of Great Britain. This Island of Hong Kong
was ceded to Great Britain by the treaty of Canton in 1841 or 1842,
and it was indeed a great acquisition, as it gave to England a
foothold on the very coast of China, possessing a fine harbor, and
where she has quartered a fine garrison. The climate is very healthy
for this latitude, owing to its being a very rocky and barren soil,
entirely surrounded by salt water. The body of the water of the
Canton River (of which it forms the eastern entrance) passes to the
westward along the shores of Macao. This port of Hong Kong was a
gay and pleasant place to visit. There many English families
belonging to the garrison resided; also some of the families of
American merchants located there. These were all very hospitable
and entertained us handsomely. My first acquaintance with "pigeon
English" was a note of invitation from one of the American ladies to
"tiffin," which translated into our language means a sumptuous
luncheon. We also attended here a grand military ball given by the
officers of the garrison. After the festivities of the evening were over
and the dancing thoroughly enjoyed the departing guests were
served with a cup of hot beef tea. This was a novelty to us, but the
most refreshing beverage
after the weariness consequent upon the evening's enjoyment that I
ever drank, and I found one did not have to be an invalid to
appreciate it.
From Hong Kong we crossed over to Macao. This peninsula was
donated to the Portuguese in the sixteenth century for assistance
given by that nation to the Chinese against pirates, who infested the
seas in that section, and do more or less to the present day. The
harbor is an open roadstead for large shipping. The trading, however,
was not very much here, for the advantages offered by Hong Kong
were greater. The city of Macao is one of the oldest foreign
settlements in China, and presents some unique specimens of
architecture in residences and public buildings, while the grounds
show taste and culture. There is just out of the limits of the city a
beautiful grotto where the Poet Camöens is said to have written his
"Lusiad," and the spot is beautiful enough to have inspired a poet's
pen. After remaining a week or more in this harbor we went up the
Canton River as high as Blenheim Reach, the highest point of
anchorage that our ship's draught of water would admit of our going.
We passed by the Canton forts, more remarkable for their extent
than the strength of their fortifications. During the war between
England and China the heaviest of the English ships anchored in
Blenheim Reach to operate against the city of Canton, which is about
eight miles from this place. On the shores of Blenheim Reach is built
up a village of some extent, the houses of which are constructed
entirely of bamboo canes. The bamboo grows here in great
abundance and to great size. We visited the city of Canton in boats,
but were always armed, on account of the river pirates, bold and
daring, and often dangerous. Although it is an old and hackneyed
story about China, it is nevertheless a true and interesting one in
regard to their duck boats. The peculiar fittings or appliances for
lowering down the platforms for the ducks to descend into the water
for feeding purposes, at which they perform many pranks as they
hasten to the shore along the shoal for food. Thus they are kept
moving along the river to the most desirable feeding grounds,
constantly changing from day to day. These creatures of the
feathered tribe are so trained as to know the whistle of their own
boat, upon the sound of which they ascend as rapidly as they
descended, but with a different motive power influencing them, for
the last one that crosses the bridge or platform gets a sound
thrashing! The duck is indeed a feature of China. Hatched and bred
in great quantities on these boats, having free feeding grounds, they
are a great source of revenue to their owners, and are a prominent
feature in all the eating shops (which are numerous), baked and hung
up to be served out as the purchaser desires.
As we approached the great city of Canton both sides of the river
were lined with boats on which large families of people are reared and
have been for generations back, who never go on shore except for
special purposes, such as marketing, attending worship in their
temples, or burying their dead. These boats are of small dimensions
and are kept scrupulously clean, and necessarily the scrubbing day
comes round very often, when the children are thrown overboard
and given a buoy to float upon until the scrubbing is over and the
home in order again.
The tea boats present a striking appearance in their gay coloring
and gaudy decorations. These boats are anchored off in the center of
the stream or at convenient points along the river. To these boats the
populace resort in great numbers for quaffing their national
beverage, as their more civilized contemporaries would frequent
saloons or club-rooms. We landed in that part of the city where are
built the residences of European merchants, many of them very
comfortable. The men who occupy them supply the world with tea.
The best-paid men in this trade are the tea-tasters, who select,
classify, and price the teas for the various markets. As we pass these
buildings and enter the Chinese part of the city the streets are
narrow and paved. The merchants show their goods in the
doorways of their shops or on the sidewalks to designate their
occupation. The streets are filled with vendors of all conceivable
wares. It was by no means rare to see puppies and cats in cages,
hung at either end of a pole over the shoulder of the carrier, as
unconcernedly as chickens or game would be hawked about the
streets of American towns.
The fish shops of China are interesting from the great variety
they display. They do not sell oysters fresh (or did not on that day).
They kiln-dried them on scaffolds and then packed them away in the
dried state for future use, thereby depriving the bivalve and the
consumer of its most tempting properties, hence they were not
appreciated by oyster-eating Americans.
WE VISITED with a great deal of interest and pleasure the
crockery stores, with a view to purchasing some of the beautiful
wares. The finest china is, of course, handpainted, no two pieces
alike, having landscapes of their own country, exclusively, in the
center (with strange want of perspective), with very handsome
borders of birds, insects, butterflies and flowers. It is very rich and
showy, their coloring being always intense, and a table set with
china of this description is very striking and beautiful. In making a
selection there are no regular sets for breakfast, dinner, and tea, but
you are at liberty to select what pleases your own fancy, thus
making up your own sets. The breakfast set of which I made choice
was the very old-fashioned historic willow china in blue, to which is
attached a very romantic legend. The legend runs: "A Chinese
princess escapes from a window which overhangs the water on
whose shores the willows grow and thrive, throwing their graceful
shadows on the stream on whose placid waters she floats away from
her home with a plebeian lover, with woman's trust and faith, and 'the
love that laughs at locksmiths.' " The plates and dishes are double
and deep, with a little orifice for pouring in hot water to keep the
breakfast delightfully hot while eating it.
I took the opportunity of purchasing a very handsome Chinese
punch bowl for my esteemed friend Judge Berrien, which I had the
pleasure of sending him on my return home, and received from him a
very beautiful letter of thanks and appreciation. I also purchased a
very full and handsome set of china--dinner and tea--which is still in
use in my family, having been buried during the war for safe
keeping! When making the selection of the blue
breakfast china the salesman or merchant surprised me by
putting one of the dishes on the floor and jumping with his
wooden clogs upon it to prove its strength, presenting a
laughable appearance to us who stood by. They proved as
strong as he asserted, and half a dozen are still in existence
after many years' service. Having made our purchases we
sought the hotel in search of a dinner, which was served with
a variety of dishes, very Chinese in appearance, being mostly
hashes, but very palatable. One in particular had such very
small bones that we accused the waiter with serving us up a
"rat stew." At this he was very indignant, and angrily
protested, "Chinaman no eat rat; none 'cept poor Chinaman,
low-down Chinaman." The cat and puppy dishes, however, he
did not deny; said they "were good, but no serve Mellican man
'cept he want 'em!"
Had I been served with a "rat stew" it would have been a
"righteous retribution" on me for one of the frolics of my early
boyhood! Our old carriage driver, "Daddy Jim," my father's
body servant, who used to drive him in his gig as he went the
rounds of the courts on his circuit, was also a very fancy cook,
and loved his own dishes. He was very devoted to his young
master and would sometimes save choice morsels for me from
his supper the night before. When I went hunting I would bring
him in rabbit or squirrel, as my game might chance to be; but
one day, in a spirit of mischief and fun, I played a dreadful
trick on him. The rats that infested the rice barn and fed on the
rice were very large and fat. I shot two or three of them and
prepared them invitingly for the pot or saucepan, curtailing
their suspicious tails, and they looked for all the world like
squirrels. I presented them to "Daddy Jim" for his supper; he
was delighted, said "he would cook them nice, and save one
for my breakfast." The next morning the old man smacked his
lips and told me how good and juicy they were, and he would
bring mine to me. I laughed and said, "Daddy Jim, I fooled you;
they were
barn rats." Such a look of disgust and nausea came over his face, and
he shamed me so that I had to run out of his way, but he soon
forgave me, with his big and loving heart, and to the day of his death
was fond and faithful. Peace to his memory!
The American merchants in China invited us to their houses, and
we were pleased at the opportunity offered us of witnessing the
mode of classifying the teas by the tea-tasters. They would place a
sample of each kind of tea in cups, pour on the boiling water, cover
closely, and allow it to draw for a few minutes only, when they would
be able to distinguish by their experienced taste the exact quality of
the tea and determine the markets to which they should go. My
second visit to the city was devoted to the purchase of silks and
dress goods, including beautiful Canton crape shawls, rich in color
and exquisite in embroidery. There were also in this market lovely
dress goods made of the fibre of the pineapple, called "penia cloth."
Of this fine fabric handkerchiefs and various things were made, and
the embroidery on them was marvelous for its intricate needlework.
Our collections, of course, were only meant for gifts upon our return
home as mementoes to our families and friends of our sojourn in
these distant lands. I must not forget to mention their hand-carved
ivory chessmen and sets of backgammon and the unsurpassed
lacquer ware in all designs. Upon this lacquer are represented usually
their national emblems, the stork and the turtle.
While at anchor in the Blenheim Reach we were visited by an
American colporteur, an intelligent man, who appeared earnest in his
work of disseminating the Gospel and teachings of religion in the
form of tracts translated into their language. Through his
representation of the beauty of the country and small villages my
friend, Dr. Charles F. Fahs, assistant surgeon of the ship, and myself
were induced to accompany him on one of his trips.
Getting in one of the ship's boats for the trip, we were landed at a
point on the river, and taking the embankment which was thrown up
as a foot-path through the marsh we passed through little hamlets
dotted over this marsh of luxurious growth. After reaching the third
hamlet we approached rather a large building with a single hall. This
the colporteur pointed out to us as one of their "ancestral halls,"
where their children were taught. The doors being open and the
building unoccupied at the time, we took the liberty of going in, and
were remarking on some characters on the wall when a querulous old
Chinaman entered and asked our business there. The colporteur,
who spoke Chinese, replied that we were admiring their ancient
building and the characters on the walls. It was easy to see it was his
intention to dispute our right to be there, and his loud talking soon
drew other Chinamen, and in a few minutes the hall was filled with an
excited crowd. Our acquaintance, the colporteur, had his patience
and endurance put to the test. Never losing his patience or temper,
he replied to all they said with coolness and decision. The doctor
and I being only "lookers on" saw that a serious row was pending,
though we did not know exactly what we had done to bring it about.
The colporteur suggested (in an aside to us) that we take our
departure with all the coolness and indifference we could assume, as
any appearance of fear might lead to our being murdered by them,
and I verily think it would! We withdrew, leisurely observing the
beauty of the streets and the quaintness of the buildings we passed
till we reached the outskirts of the village, when the colporteur
begged that we accelerate our pace, as he said had one of those
infuriated people thrown a stone at us we would not have escaped
with our lives; so we made "double-quick" time back to the landing
and made signal for our boat, greatly relieved to reach the ship in
safety, and unstoned. We could not go with the good man again on
his rounds, not being willing to extend his
good work or even to "take the Kingdom of Heaven by violence," at
least the violence of a Chinese heathen mob!
We had now remained several weeks in Blenheim Reach, and many of our men were taken
down with fever. The weather was intensely hot, especially the
nights. All hands were seeking the spar deck, where only the awning
kept off the night air, and with a Chinese mat to lie upon, and a
bamboo pillow, we passed the nights in search of comfort, regardless
of health. The surgeon advised that the ship be taken down to salt
water, which was done as a health motive. We steamed down to
Hong Kong, our former anchorage, where we greatly enjoyed the sea
breezes. Our next move was to Shanghai, higher up the coast some
hundred miles, situated on the Woosing River, about fourteen miles
from the sea. This city is one of the important entrepôt of the
commerce between the north and south provinces of China. It also
carried on quite an important foreign trade. Many of the foreign
missions were established here. The Episcopal Bishop of China, Rev.
Dr. Boone, resided here, and I found in his lovely wife a typical
Southern woman, a sister of the beloved bishop of my native State,
Rt. Rev. Stephen Elliott. I was quite an invalid from the enervating
climate, and they kindly invited me to become an inmate of their home
till my health should be restored. Bishop Boone had studied medicine
to aid him in his missionary work. He advised me to put aside all
nauseous drugs and trust to the change to home life. There I enjoyed
the nice Southern dishes and everything was done for my comfort.
My enjoyment of their true Southern hospitality soon recruited my
health. Bishop Boone was an ardent laborer in his chosen work. He
established a very successful mission school, and his long study of
the Chinese language and character eminently fitted him for his life-work.
The mission and foreign residences were situated outside the
city, on the banks of a river, in a beautiful grove. The city of
Shanghai is a walled city with narrow streets not remarkable for
