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        <title><emph rend="bold">FROM FLAG TO FLAG</emph>
<emph rend="bold">A Woman's Adventures and Experiences in the              
South
during the War, in Mexico, and in Cuba:</emph> 
Electronic Edition.</title>
        <author>Ripley, Eliza Moore Chinn McHatton, 1832-1912</author>
        <funder>Funding from the Library of Congress/Ameritech National Digital Library 
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        <pubPlace>University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill, </pubPlace>
        <date>1998.</date>
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          <p>© This work is the property of the University of North Carolina 
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teaching and personal use as long as this statement of availability 
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        <note anchored="yes">Call number  F1763.R58 c.2 1889 
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            <date>1889</date>
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            <item>Louisiana -- History -- Civil War, 1861-1865 -- Refugees.</item>
            <item>United States -- History -- Civil War, 1861-1865 -- Refugee</item>
            <item>Mexico -- Description and travel.</item>
            <item>Cuba -- Description and travel.</item>
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    <front>
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      <titlePage>
        <docTitle>
          <titlePart type="main">FROM FLAG TO FLAG</titlePart>
          <titlePart type="subtitle">A WOMAN'S ADVENTURES AND EXPERIENCES
<lb/>
IN THE SOUTH DURING THE WAR,
<lb/>
IN MEXICO, AND IN CUBA</titlePart>
        </docTitle>
        <byline>BY</byline>
        <docAuthor>ELIZA McHATTON-RIPLEY</docAuthor>
        <epigraph>
          <lg type="verse">
            <l>“Faith! I ran when I saw others run.”</l>
            <signed>  -  I HENRY IV.</signed>
          </lg>
          <lg type="stanza">
            <l>“See here, my friends and loving countrymen;</l>
            <l>This token serveth for a flag of truce</l>
            <l>Betwixt ourselves.”</l>
            <signed>  -  I HENRY IV.</signed>
          </lg>
        </epigraph>
        <docImprint><pubPlace>NEW YORK</pubPlace>
<publisher>D. APPLETON AND COMPANY</publisher>
<docDate>1889</docDate></docImprint>
        <titlePart type="verso">COPYRIGHT, 1888,
<lb/>
BY D. APPLETON AND COMPANY.</titlePart>
      </titlePage>
      <pb id="flag3" n="3"/>
      <div1 type="note">
        <head>NOTE.</head>
        <p>THE years covered by this narrative were full of
stirring interest. Civil war in the United States put
the nation under arms from the St. Lawrence to the
Rio Grande, and shattered the entire social and political
fabric of the South. Mexico was conquered by
the French, who, in time, were driven from the country,
and the improbability of any European power
obtaining a foothold there forever settled. A large
portion of the Island of Cuba was for years under the
control of the insurgents; and, not until a sea of
blood and millions of treasure had been poured out,
was a semblance of peace secured.</p>
        <p>The minor part I bore in these exciting times has
been a thrice-told tale at my fireside; and, believing
the unfamiliar pictures of life, varied incidents, and
historical facts worthy of record, I have written why,
and how, we ran “from flag to flag.”</p>
      </div1>
      <pb id="flag5" n="5"/>
      <div1 type="contents">
        <head>CONTENTS.</head>
        <list type="simple">
          <item>I. A PLANTATION HOME IN LOUISIANA . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="flag7">7</ref></item>
          <item>II. THE NEW FLAG  -  CAMPAIGN SEWING SOCIETY  -  CAPTURE
OF NEW ORLEANS . . . . .<ref targOrder="U" target="flag10">10</ref></item>
          <item>III. A CREVASSE  -  OCCUPATION OF BATON ROUGE  -  DEFENSELESS
CITIZENS . . . . .<ref targOrder="U" target="flag19">19</ref></item>
          <item>IV. WILLY'S ERRAND  -  BRECKINRIDGE'S MESSAGE  -  THE RAW
RECRUITS . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="flag27">27</ref></item>
          <item>V. THE BATTLE  -  RUSH TO ARLINGTON  -  DISASTER  -  DEPARTURE
OF OUR GUESTS . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="flag33">33</ref></item>
          <item>VI. RESTORING ORDER  -  SCENES OF VANDALISM  -  PREPARATIONS
FOR DEPARTURE . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="flag42">42</ref></item>
          <item>VII. SECOND VISIT OF THE ENEMY  -  MIDNIGHT FLIGHT  -  FAREWELL
TO ARLINGTON . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="flag53">53</ref></item>
          <item>VIII. “PICKETS DOWN DAR!”  -  HARD JOURNEYING  -  WILLY'S
FATE  -  CHARLOTTE . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="flag60">60</ref></item>
          <item>IX. CAMPING BY NIGHT  -  FORLORN WOMEN  -  BEAUMONT  - 
HOUSTON . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="flag66">66</ref></item>
          <item>X. TRAVELING THROUGH TEXAS  -  NEARING THE RIO GRANDE . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="flag76">76</ref></item>
          <item>XI. LAREDO  -  MEXICAN ESCORT TO PIEDRAS NEGRAS  -  THE
CUSTOM-HOUSE  -  A NORTHER  -  SAN ANTONIO  -  SCARCITY
OF NECESSARIES . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="flag83">83</ref></item>
          <item>XII. FINAL TRIP TO THE RIO GRANDE  -  MATAMORAS OCCUPIED
BY THE FRENCH  -  WAITING!  -  MARTHA BEFORE THE ALCALDE  - 
WAR OVER! . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="flag104">104</ref></item>
          <item>XIII. HAVANA  -  HÔTEL CUBANO  -  OUR HOME ON  THE CERRO . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="flag125">125</ref></item>
          <item>XIV. STREET SIGHTS AND SOUNDS  -  EVENINGS IN
THE CITY  -  SHOPS AND SHOPPING  -  BEGGARS  -  VACCINATION . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="flag134">134</ref></item>
          <item>XV.. A POLYGLOT  -  ZELL  -  BEATRIZ'S SCHOOL  -  IGNORANT
GUAJIROS. . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="flag142">142</ref></item>
          <pb id="flag6" n="6"/>
          <item>XVI. PLANTATION PURCHASED  -  LIFE AT “DESENGAÑO”  -  AT
WORK ONCE MORE . . . . .<ref targOrder="U" target="flag149">149</ref></item>
          <item>XVII. RAINY SEASON  -  CULTIVATING ABANDONED FIELDS  - 
DON FULGENCIO'S  MODE  -  FIRST SUMMER AT
DESENGAÑO  -  BOOKS . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="flag156">156</ref></item>
          <item>XVIII. MORE LABORERS REQUIRED  -  HENRY SHOOTS WILD DOGS
-  MILITARY RULE  -  EXTORTION . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="flag165">165</ref></item>
          <item>XIX. NEW CHINESE  -  COOLIE REBELLION  -  ZELL'S BRAVERY
-  CHINESE LABOR CONTRACT  -  VICIOUS INSECTS . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="flag170">170</ref></item>
          <item>XX. CIRIACO  -  PLANTATION GARDEN  -  TASAJO  -  NEGRO
MUSIC AND DANCING . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="flag183">183</ref></item>
          <item>XXI. THE GOOD OLD PRIEST  -  RELIGION AND SUPERSTITION
OF THE NEGROES  -  THE SEÑORA'S GHOST . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="flag190">190</ref></item>
          <item>XXII. CATTLE  -  BUTTER AND CHURN  -  OVERRUN WITH CATS  - 
CURIOUS VOLCANO  -  MAJA AND JUTIA . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="flag197">197</ref></item>
          <item>XXIII. HARASSED BY THE MlLITARY  -  LAWLESS SITUATION  - 
MEN DRIVEN TO THE MOUNTAINS  -  RESTRICTED
WALKS . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="flag205">205</ref></item>
          <item>XXIV. MURDEROUS ASSAULT  -  COMPLAINTS TO THE CAPTAIN-
GENERAL  -  CARLOS GARCIA . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="flag210">210</ref></item>
          <item>XXV. “BEHOLD A MAN FULL OF LEPROSY!” . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="flag222">222</ref></item>
          <item>XXVI. SUGAR-MAKING  -  DINNER AT “JOSEFITA'S”  -  DOMESTIC
SERVICE  -  POOR DON PEDRO . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="flag227">227</ref></item>
          <item>XXVII. A PARADISE  -  A GUAJIRO BALL  -  OUR NEIGHBORS  -  A
DAY WITH THE MARQUIS . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="flag234">234</ref></item>
          <item>XXVIII. FERTILITY OF THE SOIL  -  WORK DURING SUGAR-MAKING
-  FIRE IN THE CANE FIELDS . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="flag253">253</ref></item>
          <item>XXIX. DON RUANO'S COFFEE ESTATE  -  COFFEE-MILLS AND
COFFEE-POTS  -  WASTE OF FRUITS  -  DON RUANO AND HlS
MOTHER . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="flag263">263</ref></item>
          <item>XXX. HOUSE-BUILDING ANTS  -  ELLIE 'S YOUNG OWLS  -  HENRY
SAYS “ADIOS” . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="flag270">270</ref></item>
          <item>XXXI. BEAUTIFUL OCTOBER  -  VIEW FROM THE MOUNTAIN  - 
TERRIBLE TEMPORAL  -  DEVASTATION . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="flag277">277</ref></item>
          <item>XXXII. DULLNESS  -  ISOLATION  -  WEARINESS  -  CUBA,
FAREWELL!  . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="flag288">288</ref></item>
        </list>
      </div1>
    </front>
    <pb id="flag7" n="7"/>
    <body>
      <div1>
        <head>FROM FLAG TO FLAG.</head>
        <div2 type="chapter">
          <head>CHAPTER I.
<lb/>
A PLANTATION HOME IN LOUISIANA.</head>
          <p>A SPACIOUS mansion, with deep verandas supported
by fluted columns, so closely following the
architectural features of the historic Lee homestead
on the Potomac as to give the name of “Arlington”
to the plantation, was the home of my early married life.</p>
          <p>The house faced a broad lawn, dotted here and
there with live-oak and pecan trees. An avenue, over
which the “pride-of-China” trees cast their shade, and
beside which the Cherokee rose grew with great luxuriance,
led to the river-bank, and commanded a magnificent
view of the Mississippi for many miles above,
and below.</p>
          <p>To this house, with all its attractive appointments,
I came a bride, and from this home I took a hurried
<pb id="flag8" n="8"/>
departure a decade later. Time has not dimmed the
memory of those years; on the contrary, it has added
to their radiant brightness.</p>
          <p>Turning back a quarter of a century, I see a picture
of peace, happiness, and the loveliest surroundings.
In those spring days at Arlington the air was so pure
and fragrant that its inhalation was a positive luxury.
It was delightful to wander over the lawn, with its
fresh carpet of green, and note the wonderful growth of
vegetation on every side. The roses that arched the
gateways, the honeysuckles and jasmines that climbed
in profusion over the trellises, the delicate-foliaged
crape myrtle with its wealth of fairy pink blossoms, all
contributed perfume to the breeze.</p>
          <p>Those grand autumnal days, when smoke rolled from
the tall chimney of the sugar-house, and the air
was redolent with the aroma of boiling cane-juice;
when the fields were dotted with groups of busy and
contented slaves, and their cabins resounded with the
merry voices of playing children; when magnolia and
oak trees were musical with the mocking-birds, whose
throats poured forth melodies unknown to any other
of the feathered tribe, and nimble squirrels gathered
their winter stores in the pecan-groves  -  oh, those
grand autumnal days!</p>
          <p>Those Christmas-days, when the house was filled
with gay throngs of city guests, and the broad halls
resounded with merry laugh and romp; when the
<pb id="flag9" n="9"/>
“plantation band,” with the inspiring airs of “Monie
Musk” and “Come, haste to the Wedding,” put
wings to the giddy feet  -  how the happy moments
fled! oh, the jolly days, when we danced the hours away!</p>
        </div2>
        <pb id="flag10" n="10"/>
        <div2 type="chapter">
          <head>CHAPTER II.
<lb/>
THE NEW FLAG  -  CAMPAIGN SEWING SOCIETY  -  CAPTURE OF
NEW ORLEANS.</head>
          <p>BASKING in the sunshine of prosperity during the
stirring events that crowded one after another through
the winter of 1860-'61, buoyed up by the hope and
belief that a peaceful solution of national complications
would be attained, we were blind to the ominous
clouds that were gathering around us. Prophets arose
in our midst, with vigorous tongue and powerful eloquence
lifting the veil and giving us glimpses of the
fiery sword suspended over our heads; but the pictures
revealed were like pages in history, in which we had
no part nor lot, so hard it was for people who had for
generations walked the flowery paths of peace, to realize
war and all that that terrible word imports.</p>
          <p>It was during the temporary absence of my husband,
and Arlington full of gay young guests, when our
city paper described the device for “<hi rend="italics">the</hi> flag,” as
decided upon at Montgomery, the cradle of the new-born
Confederacy. Up to and even far beyond that period
we did not, in fact could not, realize the mightiness of
<pb id="flag11" n="11"/>
the impending future. Full of wild enthusiasm, the
family at Arlington voted at once that the banner
should unfold its brave States-rights constellation from
a staff on our river-front. This emblem of nationality
(which, on account of its confusing resemblance to the
brilliant “Stars and Stripes,” was subsequently discarded)
consisted of a red field with a horizontal bar of
white across its center; in one corner was a square of
blue with white stars. There were red flannel and white
cotton cloth in the house, but nothing blue
could we find; so a messenger was hastily dispatched
to town with orders for goods of that color, no matter
what the quality or shade.</p>
          <p>On a square of blue denim the white stars were
grouped, one to represent each seceded State. We
toiled all that Saturday, and had no little difficulty in
getting our work to lie smooth and straight, as the red
flannel was pieced, the cotton flimsy, and the denim
stiff. From the negroes who had been spending their
half-holiday catching drift-wood, which in the early
spring floats from every tributary down on the rapidly
swelling bosom of the broad Mississippi, we procured
a long, straight, slender pole, to which the flag was secured
by cords, nails, and other devices. When the
staff was firmly planted into the ground, on the most
prominent point on the river-front, and its gay banner
loosened to the breeze, the enthusiastic little
party danced round and round, singing and shouting in
<pb id="flag12" n="12"/>
exuberance of spirit<corr>.</corr> At that critical moment a small
stern-wheel Pittsburg boat came puffing up the stream;
its shrill whistle and bell joined in the celebration, while
passengers and crew cheered and hallooed, waving
newspapers, hats, and handkerchiefs, until the little
Yankee craft wheezed out of sight in a bend of the
river. Of all the joyous party that danced and sung
round that first Confederate flag raised on Louisiana
soil, I am, with the exception of my son, then a very
small boy, the only one living to-day.</p>
          <p>It made such a brave show, and we were so
exhilarated, that we passed all that bright Sunday in early
spring under its waving folds, or on the piazza in full
view of it.</p>
          <p>When my husband, after a two weeks' absence,
boarded the steamer Quitman to return home, the
first news that greeted him was, “There is a Confederate
flag floating over your levee!” He was thunderstruck!
That far-seeing, cautious man was by no
means an “original secessionist,” and did not, in his
discretion, and the hope that lingered long in his
breast of an amicable adjustment of the difficulties,
countenance the zealous ardor of his hasty and
impetuous household. Our flag was already beginning to look
frayed and ragged-edged. We had no means of lowering
it, and its folds had flapped through fog and sunshine
until the sleazy cotton split and the stars shriveled
on the stiff blue ground. The coming of the “general
<pb id="flag13" n="13"/>
commanding,” as we now playfully called him, signalized
the removal of our tattered banner; but we had
the satisfaction of knowing that advantage of his
absence had been taken to float it a whole week, and
that it was no hostile hand that furled it at the last.</p>
          <p>The wild alarms of war roused us at last from this
Arcadian life of ease and luxury. The rumbling thunder
of battle was making itself heard from Sumter
on the one side and Manassas on the other. “Dixie”
and “The Bonnie Blue Flag” were replacing the soul-stirring
battle-songs of our fathers.</p>
          <p>Men who had never saddled their mettled steeds,
nor harnessed their own teams for pleasure-excursions,
now eagerly bestrode any nag they could command,
or drove lumbering mule-teams, or, worse still, plodded
on foot with a military company on its march to the
front; while the daintily nurtured women, who, in the
abundance of service that slavery afforded, had scarce
put on their own shoes, assembled and toiled day after
day in the preparation of clothing for the soldiers,
which quickly became their all-absorbing occupation.</p>
          <p>In the neighboring city of Baton Rouge we organised
the “Campaign Sewing Society.” Its very title
shows how transient we regarded the emergency; how little we
deemed the <hi rend="italics">campaign</hi> would develop into a
four years' war! There many of us received our first
lessons in the intricacies of coats and pantaloons. I
so well remember when, in the glory of my new
<pb id="flag14" n="14"/>
acquirements, I proudly made a pair of cottonade trousers
for a brother we were fitting out in surpassing style
for “service,” my embarrassment and consternation
when I overheard him slyly remark to my husband
that he had to stand on his head to button them  - 
they lapped the wrong way! Stockings had also to
be provided, and expert knitters found constant work.
By wearing a knitting-bag at my side, and utilizing
every moment, I was by no means the only one able to
turn off a coarse cotton stocking, with a rather short
leg, every day.</p>
          <p>From the factory in our little city  -  the only one,
by the way, of any size or importance in the State  -  we
procured the cloth required for suits, but in the lapse
of time the supply of buttons, thread, needles, and tape,
in fact, of all the little accessories of the sewing-room,
was exhausted, and to replenish the stock our thoughts
and conversation were necessarily turned into financial
channels. I cordially recommend to societies and
impecunious institutions the scheme in all its entirety
that we adopted as vastly superior to the ordinary
and much-maligned fair; the plan was the offspring
of necessity; the demand was so instant and urgent
that we could undertake no fair or entertainment that
involved time, work, or expense.</p>
          <p>A “Tombola,” where every article is donated and
every ticket draws a prize, was the happy result of
numerous conferences. The scheme was discussed
<pb id="flag15" n="15"/>
with husbands and brothers; each suggested an
advancement or improvement on the other, until the
project expanded so greatly, including all classes and
conditions of donors, that it was quickly found that not
only a large hall but a stable and a warehouse also would
be required to hold the contributions, which embraced
every imaginable article from a tooth-pick to a cow!
The hall was soon overflowing with minor articles from
houses and shops. Nothing was either too costly or
too insignificant to be refused. A glass show-case glittered
with jewelry of all styles and patterns, and bits
of rare old silver. Pictures and engravings, old and
faded, new and valuable, hung side by side on the walls.
Odd pieces of furniture, work-boxes, lamps and candelabra,
were arranged here and there, to stand out in
bold relief amid an immense array of pencils, tweezers,
scissors, penknives, tooth-picks, darning-needles, and
such trifles. The stalls of the stable were tenanted by
mules, cows, hogs, with whole litters of pigs, and
varieties of poultry. The warehouse groaned under the
weight of barrels of sugar, molasses, and rice, and bushels
of meal, potatoes, turnips, and corn. Tickets for a
chance at this miscellaneous collection sold for one dollar
each. As is ever the case, the blind goddess was
capricious: with the exception of an old negro woman,
who won a set of pearls, I can not remember any one
who secured a prize worth the price of the ticket. I
invested in twenty tickets, for which I received nineteen
<pb id="flag16" n="16"/>
lead-pencils and a frolicsome old goat, with beard
hanging to his knees, and horns like those which
brought down the walls of Jericho. Need I add that
the “general commanding” refused to receive that
formidable animal at Arlington?</p>
          <p>The “Tombola” was a grand, an overwhelming
success; without one dollar of outlay  -  the buildings
and necessary printing having been donated  -  we made
six thousand dollars. Before this sum could be sent
to New Orleans for investment, that city was in the
hands of its captors.</p>
          <p>Thus cut off from the means of securing necessary
supplies, and at the same time from facilities for
communication with those whom we sought to aid, the
“Campaign Sewing Society” sadly disbanded. The
busy workers retired to their own houses, the treasurer
fled with the funds for safe-keeping, and, when
she emerged from her retreat, six thousand dollars in
Confederate paper was not worth six cents!</p>
          <p>The Federals captured New Orleans in April, and
there was intense excitement all up and down the river.
We boasted and bragged of what we could do and what
we were going to do, like children whistling in the dark
to keep their courage up. We had never seen soldiers
“on deeds of daring full intent.” We had never seen any
drilling and manœuvring of companies and
battalions, except our own ardent and inexperienced
young men, full of enthusiasm that was kindled and
<pb id="flag17" n="17"/>
encouraged and in many cases bolstered up by the
women, who, like most non-combatants, were very
valiant, and like all whose hearthstones are threatened
very desperate. So the landing of the enemy in our
chief city, and the capitulation of our defenses, roused
every drop of blood in our hearts. Nothing but “war
to the knife” was spoken of. While we openly declared
that New Orleans should have been fired, like Moscow,
rather than surrendered, men went about destroying
cotton wherever it was stored, and fierce and loud
were the denunciations against any man who even by
gentle remonstrance made the slightest objection to
having his property touched by the torch of his neighbor,
to prevent the possibility of its capture by the
“hordes of hirelings” as we called the Northern soldiers
and their naturalized comrades.</p>
          <p>All the blankets and bedding that could reasonably
be spared had been gathered during the winter, by
teams driven from house to house, making one grand
collection for our suffering troops.</p>
          <p>Now, thoroughly alarmed at the possibility of being
cut off from all communication with our soldiers in
the field, and prevented from contributing to their
comfort, carpets were ripped from the floors of many
houses, cut into suitable blanket-size, and sent via
“Camp Moore”  -  now our only outlet  -  to the army
in the mountains of Virginia and on the borders
of Tennessee. There was no combined or concerted plan;
<pb id="flag18" n="18"/>
each acted his individual part, and made personal
sacrifices to help the cause. Plantations were adjoining,
but the residences too remote to meet and discuss
matters when time was so precious. Black William and
I drew the tacks from every carpet at Arlington; brussels,
tapestry, and ingrain, old and new, all were made
into blankets and promptly sent to the front. One
half the house was closed, and a deal of management
was required to keep the other half comfortable without
a carpet or rug to lay over the bare floor. So it
happened that when the Federals, after an exciting
siege, captured New Orleans, very little was left in
the houses on the river that could be made available
for the use of the army.</p>
        </div2>
        <pb id="flag19" n="19"/>
        <div2 type="chapter">
          <head>CHAPTER III.
<lb/>
A CREVASSE  -  OCCUPATION OF BATON ROUGE  -  DEFENSELESS
CITIZENS.</head>
          <p>THE rapidly rising river was another element of
danger menacing us. It is a fearful sight to see the
relentless flood plunging by, bearing great trees and
logs of drift-wood on its muddy surface many feet
above the ground on which you stand, an embankment
of earth your only defense, and the waves of
passing steamboats dashing over that frail barrier and
falling in spray at your feet. It is startling to realize
that busy craw-fish, the dread enemy of every man
whose “lines are laid” behind a Mississippi levee, are
constantly boring holes through the earthworks, and
invading the ditches carefully constructed to receive
and bear away to the rear swamps and drains the
seepage that exudes all the time from the pressure on
the outer side; and terrible to know that one malicious
cut of a spade would make an insidious fissure through
which those battling waters would in a few hours rush
in an overwhelming torrent, destroying property
worth thousands of dollars  -  a calamity greatly dreaded, and
<pb id="flag20" n="20"/>
guarded against day and night by trusty men with
shovels and lanterns.</p>
          <p>My husband, whose duty it was as levee inspector,
notified our neighbors of a dangerously “weak spot” on
an adjoining plantation front, but so fearful were all
planters at that time of negro assemblages, so
apprehensive lest they communicate from plantation to
plantation, and a stray spark enkindle the fires of
sedition and rebellion, that the responses to his call
were not adequate, and the result was a <hi rend="italics">crevasse</hi>
between Baton Rouge and Arlington, four miles south,
that cut a broad chasm directly across the road, and
through our cane-fields far back for miles to bayous
and draining canals, leaving a wide ravine with a rush
of roaring water that poured millions of gallons a minute,
plowing a deep canal through roads and fields,
spreading and widening over the rear swamps in its
destructive errand, until it reached the river again in
a bend twenty-five miles away.</p>
          <p>But the terrors and subsequent losses by such a
calamity were forgotten in the greater alarm and the
foreshadowing of untold disaster to the panic-stricken
planters' wives, who were in many instances left by
their soldier husbands in charge of threatened homes.
The negroes, already seeing the dawning rays of liberty,
which at that time meant plenty to eat and nothing
to do, “jist like marster,” were becoming lazy and
impudent. So the crevasse and the injury it was
<pb id="flag21" n="21"/>
destined to inflict were of small moment to us when the
prospect of cultivating the growing crop, grew beautifully
less day by day.</p>
          <p>One magnificent morning in early summer the
whole river, the silence on whose surface had remained
now many weeks undisturbed, was suddenly, as if by
magic, ablaze with the grandeur of Federal gunboats
and transports with flags and bright-colored streamers
flying from every peak, their decks thronged with
brilliantly uniformed officers. We stood upon the
veranda, with streaming eyes and bursting hearts, the
gay strains of “Yankee Doodle” as they floated o'er
the waters filling our souls with bitterness unspeakable,
and watched the victorious pageant, until, with a
mighty sweep to avoid the boiling and surging currents
of the crevasse, it anchored amid blare of trumpet and
beat of drum beside the deserted landing of our dear
little city. The enemy was there! But there was a
barrier between us that cut off all communication by
land, and, though they could forage above and back of
the town, as is the way with hungry soldiers, we had
the melancholy satisfaction of knowing that access to
Arlington was not feasible.</p>
          <p>By and by the old Mississippi began to subside;
the tributary streams had well-nigh exhausted their
superfluous floods. Water began slowly and steadily
to recede from the fields; day by day we could see
from the windows and verandas new bits of green
<pb id="flag22" n="22"/>
here and there; places where bridges that spanned
ditches had been swept away; and deep ridges cut
by the action of rushing torrents where were once
smooth, level fields of waving cane.</p>
          <p>But the big gully at the mouth of the crevasse was
still there, deep, muddy, and unutterably foul with
the odor of dead fish lying stranded all about. The
road was cut in two by an impassable barrier, a fathomless
mud-hole. So the crevasse was a blessing, and
we were at least thankful that, if we did not have a
crop, we were safe from unwelcome visitors.</p>
          <p>My little baby was two weeks old, and I was reposing
quietly in bed, early one morning, when, lo and
behold! not a cloud of dust, but a splash of mud;
and a company of soldiers made their unwonted
appearance on the hither side of our defenses. Before
Charlotte could run up-stairs with the spoons and
forks, hastily gathered from the breakfast-table, to hide
under my pillow  -  for the darkies been carefully
taught that the whole war was a thieving expedition
to steal our homes and property  -  before Charlotte
could tell the news and tuck the spoons away, the
clatter of hoofs on the lawn and the voices of strange
men revealed the fact that the Federal soldiers were
upon us!</p>
          <p>My husband, whose disability, from the loss of an
eye, relieved him from active service, was equal to the
occasion, and met the party at the door; explained the
<pb id="flag23" n="23"/>
invalid condition of his wife till one might have
thought that nothing less than a miracle could save
her delicate life; requested the officers not to permit
their men to dismount, offered them milk, the only
refreshment we had that they would accept, and it
was handed around by William, in a pail; after every
man was refreshed, they quietly and decorously rode
away. I was up and peeped through a hole in the
curtain at the only company of Federal soldiers I saw
during the war.</p>
          <p>Their gentlemanly deportment quite disarmed
Charlotte of her fears for the safety of the silver; as
she took it from under my pillow, she said, “I don't
believe them men would 'onderscend to steal <hi rend="italics">spoons</hi>.”</p>
          <p>They went on, though, those very men, to a
plantation five miles beyond. The poor, old gentleman
had all his sons in the Confederate service; he kept a
horse tied at his back gate, day and night: it seems he
did not share our confidence in the protection of the
muddy gully, so he was always in retreating order.
When the soldiers rode into his front yard, the tip of
his horse's tail could be seen vanishing in the
distance; in Southern parlance he “took to the woods.”
Finding no one to represent the host but a very
young and bashful daughter-in-law, they soon disposed
of her in a safe place  -  a bedroom with locked
doors  -  and for twenty-four hours remained on the
premises, engaged in collecting all they could find for
<pb id="flag24" n="24"/>
food and forage. Cattle, corn, molasses, and hay were
shipped to town by the ferry-boat sent to their
assistance. In due course of time, finding the coast was
clear and the whole place “cleaned out,” the old
gentleman ambled home. The bashful lady of the castle
had been released from her confinement, and order
somewhat restored, so there was little left to do but
estimate the damage.</p>
          <p>Charlotte told me the story as she had it from the
sable “cloud of witnesses” that pervaded every
Southern household, ending the recital with the wise
remark, “We didn't hide them spoons none too soon.”</p>
          <p>“Bombs bursting in air” every few days gave
assurance that the “guerrillas,” as a hastily organized
band of rowdies and bullies, that hovered on the outskirts
of the town, chose to style themselves, had “run
in and fired off and run out again,” making just
enough demonstration to call a return fire from the
gunboats and scare everybody in town. These occurrences
became so frequent that scarce a day passed
that we did not hear, either of an intended raid by
the “guerrillas,” or the hissing and explosion of bombs,
with shudders of unutterable agony for the safety of
aged and defenseless friends.</p>
          <p>The towns-people actually made excavations in
their yards and covered them with planks for refuge
in a bombardment. Some of the plank coverings
were struck and shattered by fiery missiles, so the
<pb id="flag25" n="25"/>
wretched inhabitants had to dig tunnels by which
they could obtain shelter beyond the covered entrance.
Plans and diagrams for these were passed around, and
neighbor helped neighbor in the life-saving work. It
was a terrible state of things, no military organization
at hand to control the rowdy element on the Confedate
side, and the Federals claiming to have no other
way of putting a stop to these senseless raids except by
firing from their gunboats.</p>
          <p>In the midst of these occurrences, which we viewed
from a safe distance, I was startled one day by seeing a
man dressed in the striped and numbered garb of a
convict enter the gates. He hurriedly explained to my
husband that the doors of the penitentiary at
Baton Rouge had been thrown open by military order,
and the convicts freed, with injunctions to report at
headquarters and enlist.</p>
          <p>I do not know how many inmates there were, but
the people of the town were terrified to find the whole
criminal gang of the State turned loose upon their
streets. The man who sought to escape the Federal
service as well as the jurisdiction of the prison was a
South Carolinian, who in a sudden burst of passion had
made himself amenable to the law. He begged to be
supplied with citizen's clothing and transportation
beyond the limits of the State, so that he could reach his
home. We opened trunk after trunk that had been
left at Arlington for safe-keeping, by men long gone
<pb id="flag26" n="26"/>
to the front, to find a suit that would fit the slender,
under-sized man. At last we succeeded, and gave him
my little boy's only hat, as the one that best fitted,
and with its broad brim somewhat concealed his face,
bleached from long confinement in the cotton-factory.
A slight change of clothing was also provided in an
improvised traveling-bag. My husband advanced him
the needful funds, loaned him a pony, and gave
minute directions as to the safest road to Camp Moore,
where he could leave the animal and board the train
that would quickly carry him toward his old home.
When warned to be very cautious lest he be
apprehended on the road, and not to carry anything on his
person that could betray him, with moistened eyes
and quivering lip he drew from his pocket and handed
me a package of photographs of his little children and
a bundle of letters the only things he turned back for
when the portals of the prison were opened. “I can
not tell you what a gift you are sending to my wife
when you put me on the road to home; read these, they
will tell you.” We stood on the back piazza at early
dawn and watched the retreating form of that happy
man until it disappeared from sight  -  then burned the
unread letters and the thumbed and worn photographs.</p>
          <p>Twenty years after, we heard from him as quietly
and peacefully living in Carolina, surrounded by his
family.</p>
        </div2>
        <pb id="flag27" n="27"/>
        <div2 type="chapter">
          <head>CHAPTER IV.
<lb/>
WILLY'S ERRAND  -  <sic corr="Breckinridge's">BRECKENRIDGE'S</sic> MESSAGE  -  THE RAW
RECRUITS.</head>
          <p>TAXES had to be paid on plantations in Mississippi.
Federal gunboats cut off the usual means of
communication. From New Orleans to Baton Rouge,
and from Cairo to Vicksburg, they were in undisturbed
possession. So we were compelled to send a messenger
by land to Greenville, some distance beyond Vicksburg.
I well remember how carefully Willy, a boy of
fourteen, very bright and manly, though small for his
age, was prepared for the undertaking. He had never
been through the country. So he had a memorandum
given him, how far and by what road to go the first
day, and that would bring him to a certain house
where my husband was known; he was to tell who he
was and who sent him “on an errand,” but on no
account to divulge the nature of his errand, and “die”
before he told about the money he had on his person!</p>
          <p>Day after day his route was mapped out; he was
told what to say, what not to say, and where to stop
each night; at Greenville to pay the clerk of the court
<pb id="flag28" n="28"/>
the fifteen hundred dollars he had belted around his
waist, get a receipt, and return home.</p>
          <p>Willy was an orphan, whose entire family had died
of yellow fever in New Orleans; a bright, intelligent
boy, with only the little education we had been able
to give him before the schools were closed and people's
minds turned to more exciting things; he was so apt
and faithful that we confided many things to his care,
though of course he had never been trusted to the
extent of a four days' journey on horseback with a large
amount of money in his keeping. Even if we had
found a man to send, he was liable to conscription on
the road, so we had to depend on the boy's natural
shrewdness, willingness to obey orders implicitly, and
diminutive size, to help us.</p>
          <p>Days went by and no Willy returned. We began
to whisper our anxieties to each other, when out on
the lawn where no one else could hear; having already
learned to be wary of the darky. We were afraid he
had <hi rend="italics">died before he told</hi>, as he had been cautioned to do
again and again. At last, one day Willy presented
himself all right and fresh as a rose. Pony looked as
though he had been in clover instead of on a long and
rather perilous journey. The boy came to me, in the
absence of my husband, and handed the receipt. To
my eager inquiries as to the delay, he could furnish
no sensible reason. He was detained, could not tell
by what. Did he lose the road? “No.” Was he
<pb id="flag29" n="29"/>
sick? “No.” Did pony give out? “No” “What
was the detention?” Well, he “couldn't just tell.”
“Of one thing you may be sure, sir; your uncle will
make you tell.” And he was dismissed with a frown.
The orphan boy was no relative, but called my husband
uncle, from association with our nephews.</p>
          <p>My husband's step was heard. Willy ran to meet
him, and they had a long and anxious talk, walking
down the road. The bright, animated face of the
youth, and his uncle's bowed, eagerly listening attitude,
warned me that Willy <hi rend="italics">did</hi> have a “tale to unfold”
that was not simply “No,” for the talk came from
him. My assiduous pumping must have started the
stream, for the anxious listener was eagerly drinking
refreshing draughts of news.</p>
          <p>We were only two in those days: the children were
young, the negroes crafty, and the neighbors scattered;
so we were only two, and never did two hearts beat as
one as ours did in those times that tried men's souls,
and made the bravest among them feel the need of
help, even though it were the help of a woman, whose
quick inspirations often assisted her husband's deductions,
and sometimes solved the problem by intuition.
There was no secret I did not share  -  there was nothing
done  -  and, dear me! we felt, while the world was
“up and doing,” that we could do so little  -  but there
was nothing done wherein I was not allowed to help.
That night we walked by the silent river's bank, and
<pb id="flag30" n="30"/>
then I heard the story that made my blood run quick.
I longed to be a soldier, and go forth to battle for my
beloved land, like Joan of Arc.</p>
          <p>When Willy reached within a few miles of home,
he was astounded to find a “whole army,” as he
called it, on the wary march. He was arrested, as
traveling in the direction no one was allowed to
pass.</p>
          <p>General Breckinridge, with a totally inadequate
contingent of men, was moving toward Baton Rouge,
then in possession of the Federals. If he could swoop
down upon them suddenly, and have the co-operation
of a Confederate gunboat, he hoped by strategy to
accomplish what might be impossible in open battle.
Willy was detained two or three days, before obtaining
permission to see General Breckinridge. When
admitted, he related his story to the general, even that
part he was cautioned to “die before telling,” and in
sheer desperation showed the tax-office receipt.
General Breckinridge immediately dispatched the boy with
a secret message to my husband (with whom he was
personally intimate), to the effect that he “was slowly
approaching Baton Rouge, and needed all the
assistance possible; if he could send any men to join him,
to do so; they could bring arms if they had them. He
had no hospital supplies. No one could be spared to
attend to the disabled, and men who could not engage
in actual conflict could battle with disease and wounds
<pb id="flag31" n="31"/>
in the rear. If lint and bandages could be had, send
them, and come himself within two days.” Poor,
burdened Willy trotted home, big with the secret no man
knew this side of the advancing command.</p>
          <p>By the light of the moon I heard the stirring story,
and earnestly we talked and planned. We each had a
tired and wounded brother only a few days home from
the battle-field of Shiloh, on sick leave, both the poor
fellows up-stairs in bed, ragged, foot-sore, tired,
disgusted, and inclined to think that the “hireling horde”
the North was pouring down upon us was a well-disciplined,
almost invincible foe. We knew those young
men would need no “bugle-call” to summon them to
the front; while they really had nothing to buckle on
but a tin water-can, they would be off at the earliest
moment, and take the chance of getting arms from the
first captured men. Then, one by one, we recalled the
names and whereabouts of some eight or ten others.
Some were exempts; some called themselves by the
alluring name of “Home-Guards,” that would fight
“right thar,” but couldn't go all the way to Virginia
to do it; and one or two were, like our two, home
from Shiloh. We made our plans to recruit, under
the calm radiance of an August moon that was
destined to shine on many an upturned face on that
bloody battle-field, unpitying for the agonies that surge
far and wide, blasting hearts that never heard the
cannon's roar. Next morning my husband sallied forth.</p>
          <pb id="flag32" n="32"/>
          <lg type="verse">
            <l>“Not with the roll of the stirring drum</l>
            <l>And the trumpet that sings of fame,”</l>
          </lg>
          <p>but in a very cautious way he went after recruits, and
succeeded in raising a dozen, all told. In the gray of
the early morning of the day following there assembled
at Arlington a rough stalwart set of men. I do not
know how many fought the next day, nor how many
ran, but they were quietly and soberly enthusiastic.
We furnished a hearty breakfast by candle-light, filled
their tin cans with coffee, and, as they were not
burdened with arms or accoutrements, a substantial lunch
was put into their pockets. They marched off in the
early dawn, toward the rear of the plantation, and no
more earnest prayer was ever offered to the God of
battles than ascended from our lips as, with dimmed eyes
and beating hearts, we watched them vanish in the
veil of mist which at that hour rises from the river.</p>
          <p>Knowing that the assault was planned for the
following morning, we felt anxious and excited all day;
and at evening my husband mounted his horse, followed
by an attendant, both loaded down with hastily prepared
lint, linen sheets for bandages, and all the medicines
we had. They also vanished amid the descending
shades of night, and I was left alone with two
little children and a few house-servants.</p>
        </div2>
        <pb id="flag33" n="33"/>
        <div2 type="chapter">
          <head>CHAPTER V.
<lb/>
THE BATTLE  -  RUSH TO ARLINGTON  -  DISASTER  -  DEPARTURE
OF OUR GUESTS.</head>
          <p>THE next morning, at the first blush of dawn, firing
was distinctly heard from the direction of the town.
Now, while the town was distant four miles by the road
winding with the river, it was not half that far as the
crow flies. Baton Rouge was on a sharp point; then
the river made a deep bend, and Arlington was on the
next point of the scallop; so that, looking toward the
town from the windows, we looked partly over water,
and the city had somewhat the appearance of being
built on an island, the two points were so sharp and
well-defined. It is proper to add here, twenty-five
years make at least twenty-five changes in that most
fickle of rivers. To-day, Arlington Point may have
been washed away  -  I do not know.</p>
          <p>My little baby, whose advent was made such a good
excuse for asking the soldiers not to alight on our
lawn, was now two months old. With care, anxiety,
a never-ceasing interest in all that surrounded us, and
rather delicate health at the best, I was by no means
<pb id="flag34" n="34"/>
in good fighting order for what had to be endured
on that most memorable day. I sprung from my
bed, and flew half dressed to the windows commanding
a view of the scene. The roar of cannon was
distinctly heard, and the house seemed to tremble and
shake with the unusual noise; the rattle of musketry,
the flying of bursting bombs from the Federal boats,
the incessant smoke and the rumble of nameless
battle-sounds, kept us in suspense and excitement, pride
and fear, alarm and enthusiasm, that were painful.
General Breckinridge's name had always carried victory
with it in civil life, where we knew him best. So, as I
watched and prayed, I could not bring my thoughts to
the point that <hi rend="italics">our</hi> men could be beaten on their <hi rend="italics">own</hi>
ground under my very eyes! My thoughts turned
from these exultant channels, to see what at first
seemed to be stampeded sheep, emerging from the
foggy mist in the far-away bend of the road, swelling
and surging, and rushing in the wildest hurry and
flight, through a volume of dust made ten times more
stifling by the fierce heat. These were not sheep, but
human beings, running pell-mell, under intense
excitement, as fast as their legs could carry them. It is
a sad commentary on humanity that individuals are
swallowed up in masses. When we prayed that our
troops might conquer and prevail, no thought of the
hearts that might be made desolate forever by the
fatalities of war came to us. “Victory! victory!” was
<pb id="flag35" n="35"/>
the cry of every woman, as she buckled on the sword,
and sent husband and son to fight. No thought came
of her own or any other woman's desolation. So,
that morning, standing alone at my window, watching
through the dim mist what seemed to be the ebb and
flow of battle, hearing in the distance the booming,
hissing, and rattling sounds of conflict, I never once
thought of the homes of that besieged city, of the
women and children, the old men and the sick  -  never
once thought of them, so swallowed up the destiny of
the day every other consideration. But when that
struggling mass was revealed to me  -  pouring,
panting, rushing tumultuously down the hot, dusty road,
hatless, bonnetless, some with slippers and no stockings,
some with wrappers hastily thrown over nightgowns;
now and then a coatless man on a bare-back
horse, holding a helpless child in his arms before him,
and a terrified woman clinging on behind; men
trundling children too young to run, in dirty
wheelbarrows, while other little half-clad, barefooted ones
ran beside, weary and crying; an old man, who could
scarcely totter along, bearing a baby in his trembling
arms, while the distracted mother carried an older
child with wounded and bleeding feet; occasionally
could be descried a battered umbrella held over some
delicate woman to temper the rays of what was fast
becoming a blazing August sun. Some ran, some
stumbled along, others faltered and almost gave out;
<pb id="flag36" n="36"/>
but, before I could hurry on my clothes, they poured
into our gates and invaded the house, a small army of
them, about five hundred tired, exhausted, broken-down,
sick, frightened, terrified human beings  -  all
roused from their beds by firing and fighting in the
very streets; rushing half-clad from houses being
riddled with shot and shell; rushing through streets
filled with men fighting hand to hand; wildly running
they scarce knew whither, being separated from children
and wives and mothers in the midst of the roar
of battle, and no time to look for them; no turning
back; on  -  on  -  through yards and over fences and
down narrow, dusty lanes  -  anywhere to get from the
clash of steel and the bursting of countless bombs!</p>
          <p>Once on the open road and away from the very
midst of battle, they ran as though demons pursued
them, never turning back or branching off. There
was but the one hot, dusty road to run, and that led
straight to our ever-open gates and to other gates
beyond; but when they gained the first, by common
consent they turned in.</p>
          <p>The battle roared and surged, but there was a
roaring and surging battle for bread in that house
which for the moment silenced every other. Our
store-closets were thrown wide open; but how the
crowd managed that day I never knew. Before noon
news came of our defeat. I was sick and heart-sore,
too much so to eat my own slender breakfast which
<pb id="flag37" n="37"/>
Charlotte smuggled up the back stairs under her
apron; too sick to care, too overwhelmed with the
immensity of the undertaking of feeding a great
multitude with five loaves and no fishes, to
attempt it.</p>
          <p>I lay down beside my half-starved babe, whose
nourishment was cut short by the excitements of the
morning, and, while I wept the bitterest tears I ever
shed, told the little unconscious child it did not
matter much whether we lived or died; we were beaten
  -  beaten!</p>
          <p>The few men in the army that invaded Arlington
foraged as better-disciplined ones do, and brought in
some sheep and an ox; killed, skinned, and cut them
up with such knives as they could find, and in lieu of
better, used their own pocket-knives. Bits of meat
distributed around hastily cooked, smoked, and singed,
they devoured like savages; the famished babies had
pieces given them to suck. Long before noon the
twelve pounds of tea from the store-closets had
entirely disappeared. We had immense iron kettles
“set” in the laundry where soap had been made by
the barrel for plantation use, fires were kindled under
them and tea made <hi rend="italics"><foreign lang="la">ad libitum</foreign></hi>, but, to use Charlotte's
forcible language, “it was drunk faster than it
was made”; it could not be furnished fast enough to
meet the demands of the parched and thirsty crowd.
In the tumult of finding something to eat and drink,
<pb id="flag38" n="38"/>
as in all such cases, the strongest and hardiest being
the enterprising ones, fared the best, and the weak and
ailing were in a measure overlooked and neglected by
the general crowd. By and by individual cases
attracted attention. One frail woman came down that
road, carrying a child five years old, wrapped in the
blanket in which it had lain at death's door for days
and nights. At first the distracted parents thought
they would stand by the suffering bedside amid all the
sounds of battle; it would be certain death to remove
the patient. They remained until a bomb exploded
in their yard, carrying off part of the house-top;
then the mother, in a light night wrapper, snatched
the child up, enveloped in its blanket, and ran after
the terrified crowd down the road, the father by her
panting side, with a younger child in his arms whose
weight was more than that of the invalid. That
distressed family was provided with the luxury of a bed,
and the entire room was almost yielded to them by
the crowd at Arlington, who still had wit enough to
know that malignant scarlet fever was almost as bad
as bullets.</p>
          <p>Time and again Charlotte, who was the Lady Bountiful
of the occasion, came to tell me that first one,
then another, and still another poor woman was in
peril, and little garments went from my scanty store
to the innocent babes who opened their eyes on that
eventful day, and nothing but the supreme terror of
<pb id="flag39" n="39"/>
their mothers prevented them from first seeing light
amid scenes of carnage and desolation.</p>
          <p>So the day wore on  -  such a long day and such a
short one it was; so much crowded into it  -  and night
found us all more tired and anxious than ever.</p>
          <p>The brief conflict was over. We knew we were
beaten; the bad news followed swiftly after the defeat;
but the news of our dear ones, the anxiety to know
particulars, the surmises, hopes, and fears, but, above
all, the overwhelming news that we were <hi rend="italics">beaten</hi>, wore
us all out. About sunset a sergeant and a few men
from the victorious enemy came down to Arlington
and demanded to see my husband. Of course, he was
not at home, and I received them, bewitched to know
what to say, for I could not tell them that he was with
General Breckinridge's wounded. I made the most
plausible excuse possible for his temporary absence,
and the sergeant handed me a permit for him to enter
their lines and visit General Clark, of Mississippi, a
most dear friend, who had been grievously wounded
and was their prisoner. My husband returned before
bedtime, and hurriedly availed himself of the permit.
In his absence word came to me, from a man who said
he was just from town, that the Federal officer in
command said, if we did not send that rebel crowd away
from Arlington, a gunboat should be dispatched to shell
them out. I was desperate then, and simply replied that
I could not send that homeless multitude adrift.
<pb id="flag40" n="40"/>
Many became alarmed, however, and took up their
weary march, some going down to neighboring
plantations on the river-bank, and others going back into
the woods and swamps; enough remained, however, to
overflow the house  -  every stair-step had its reclining
form, every inch of sofa, bed, and floor was occupied
by tired, sleepy humanity. There was the usual rain
that follows heavy cannonading; it was damp and
miserable everywhere. There were two very large oak-trees
in front of the house, with wide-spreading branches and
luxuriant foliage, a favorite resort for mocking-birds,
whose songs (how I should delight in them now!)
were often an intolerable nuisance. In those sturdy
trees a whole colony of boys roosted, congratulating
themselves that nobody could turn them out, the thick
leaves sheltering them from falling drops of rain. So
wearied nature gradually sought repose; the last noises
were the occasional twitterings of the wingless occupants
of the oak-trees. A hissing noise rent the air,
and a bomb exploded in front of the house; then
another, and another; and a fourth went whizzing
over our heads, exploding with loud reports back of the
house, and on this side and on that. A gunboat
anchored in the river was sending its deadly missives
far and wide. Far and wide they were meant to be;
for surely, if they intended to strike the house, they
could have done so, such a shining, big white mark as
it was. The first bomb that burst on the lawn roused
<pb id="flag41" n="41"/>
our poor wingless birds, and the boys tumbled out of
those trees like overripe fruit in a gale, like something
that falls faster than that; like a great shake to a tree
of ripe persimmons, all fell at once. Each bomb
called forth wails and shrieks of terror from the
thoroughly alarmed and nervously excited people. After
having accomplished their purpose, the boat moved off;
but there was no more roosting that night, nor sleeping
either. A feeling that something more was to
happen pervaded the air, and we sat about in anxious
groups and desperately waited for it.</p>
          <p>The first slanting rays of the rising sun saw a good
many tired fathers and mothers march off with their
little half-clad families in various directions. Others
wandered back to their demolished and desecrated
homes, or to the homes of friends in the country;
and by noon none were left to our hospitable care, except
the mothers with the new babies.</p>
          <p>The poor woman with the sick child was frightened
by the mere threat of bombardment; she picked
up the scarlet fever and blanket, there seemed little
else tangible  -  the patient was so emaciated and
lifeless  -  and sought refuge in the woods. I would add
here that the child is alive to-day, a beautiful woman,
so deaf from that illness and cruel exposure that she
has almost lost her speech.</p>
        </div2>
        <pb id="flag42" n="42"/>
        <div2 type="chapter">
          <head>CHAPTER VI.
<lb/>
RESTORING ORDER  -  SCENES OF VANDALISM  -  PREPARATIONS
FOR DEPARTURE.</head>
          <p>NO one, who has not had the experience, knows
what a litter and indescribable confusion of dirt and
<hi rend="italics">débris</hi> is left after twenty-four hours' occupancy of a
house and grounds by a host, such as I have attempted
to describe. For days the negroes were cleaning up,
and restoring some kind of order. We moved around
in a melancholy way, ministering to the wants of our
reluctant guests as far as we could, and bidding them
Godspeed when one by one they recovered sufficient
strength to pick up their additional little burden and
creep away to join their own friends, and to collect as
far as they could the remnants of their scattered (in
many instances shattered) belongings, or to erect other
hearthstones over the remains of what had once been
not only comfortable but luxurious homes.</p>
          <p>Though the days were prolonged by our constant
anxiety, the remainder of the summer gradually wore
away. We stayed quietly at home; the horses, except
a small pony, had been given away, and we had no
<pb id="flag43" n="43"/>
means of locomotion except behind heavy wagon-mules,
quite unfit for our landau; and we were reluctant
to yield with grace to that order of things, so we
kept at home. Books, portraits, and family plate had
already been sent to remote places of safety. Poultry
was all devoured. Some sheep and cattle remained,
perhaps enough to supply the plantation with food
for some months longer. So we had nothing tangible
to afford us occupation or entertainment; no crop to
cultivate, the planted cane having been plowed up
by the waters. Corn was put in the ground, but the
worms which invariably appear on a submerged field
devoured it as fast as it sprouted. The negroes, in a
half-hearted way, as if they foresaw the doom that
awaited the plantation, repaired only a few bridges,
leveled some ruts, and in a listless manner pottered
around as though they knew perfectly well “it was
no use”; we realized the same, but felt the necessity
of furnishing these dependent laborers with occupation.</p>
          <p>It is difficult at this distant day for me to realize
how isolated we were. Having relied almost entirely
on the Mississippi River packets for intercourse with
the world beyond, all facilities of communication
through that medium were now suspended. The
post-office might as well have been closed so far as we
were concerned, for no mails were received from, or
dispatched to, any point outside of the Federal lines.
<pb id="flag44" n="44"/>
Near relatives sickened, died, and were buried within
a day's ride of our home, of whose extremity we did
not know for weeks  -  receiving the information then
through a casual passer-by. People journeying from
point to point avoided towns on the river-bank and
sought hospitality at plantation or farm houses. So
frequent were the demands made upon Arlington by
lonely and forlorn travelers, that a couple of rooms in
the rear of the house were set apart for their convenience.</p>
          <p>Occasionally small companies of Federals made
raids in the neighborhood, under some pretext or
other; notice of the intended visit was often mysteriously
conveyed to the planter in time for him to prepare.</p>
          <p>On one occasion, word was brought to my husband
of an intention to search Arlington for arms and
accoutrements. Our two soldier brothers had crept
home under shadow of night, a few days after the
battle, with guns captured on the field; William had
secreted them in our attic. As he was absent, I went in
search of them. The attic covered the entire house;
it was never used, and was not floored. Carefully
stepping from beam to beam in the darkness, trusting
more to the sense of touch than sight, in search of
the guns, by an unlucky step one foot went through
lath and plastering. I was alone, and struggled
desperately, sinking deeper with every effort, until I was
<pb id="flag45" n="45"/>
actually in danger of descending bodily into the room
below. Finally extricating myself, I hobbled in a very
scratched and bruised state down-stairs, to find that the
accident had occurred immediately over the bed where
one of the sick brothers lay unable to rise, his bed
covered with the <hi rend="italics">débris</hi>, and he convulsed with laughter.
We eagerly watched the small detachment of
soldiers approach our gate, and without even pausing,
ride by. When we left Arlington, the arms were still
secreted in the attic; and as the substantial homestead
still stands  - dismantled, shutterless, and perhaps
in many places floorless though it be  -  those guns
are doubtless lying in some remote corner under the
roof, mute witnesses of the horrors of war.</p>
          <p>When the Federals left the town I do not remember,
but after a while they did leave, and we had
something to say about a barren victory, forgetting that
Baton Rouge was no strategic point. In those days,
to us Baton Rouge was a considerable place, only
second in importance to New Orleans, and that city
ranked with Richmond in our estimation. One fine
day the fleet of gunboats steamed away, accompanied
by transports loaded to the edge with their black
freight. Negroes from every direction flocked in
after the battle, old and young and of both sexes.
Some went from Arlington, too; several women, in
their eagerness, and desiring to be unencumbered,
left their sleeping babies in the cabin beds. The
<pb id="flag46" n="46"/>
Federals, in acknowledgment of their loyalty, took
them to New Orleans, and the general who first gave
them the title of <hi rend="italics">contraband</hi> must have been well-nigh
overwhelmed by the motley crew that hastened
to put themselves under his protection.</p>
          <p>For many weeks we had not passed beyond our
plantation limits. My husband's business, which
formerly took him daily to the little city, was suddenly
and disastrously terminated when the Federals took
possession. During this depressing interval, General
Clark's wife arrived at Arlington from his plantation
in Mississippi, after a six days' ride through a
very rough country. The distracted woman had
heard that her husband was seriously wounded  -  no
more; but we were able to comfort her with the
assurance that he was alive and in General Butler's care.
It was hard to recognize, in the heart-broken, weary
traveler, the robust, cheerful woman, who formed
one of the party when we accompanied our delegate
husbands to the Democratic Convention at Charleston
in April, 1860.</p>
          <p>The incidents of those stormy days can never
be effaced from my mind. From my favored seat
in the gallery I witnessed the proceedings every step
of which led to more tumultuous excitement,
culminating at last in the disruption of the convention,
and opening the way for a momentous future of which
we had little conception. How well I remember my
<pb id="flag47" n="47"/>
intense emotion while leaning over the gallery rail,
listening to the roll-call of States to ratify the
adoption of the platform, seeing one Southern delegation
after another, with a few words of explanatory protest
from its chairman, rise and solemnly file out of the
hall! How my heart beat at the call “Louisiana!”
how intently I listened to catch the words of grand
old Governor Mouton, as with French accent, made
ten times more unintelligible by his vehement manner
and rapid utterance, he explained the attitude of his
State! Pointing a tremulous finger at the seated
representatives of Louisiana, with emphatic delivery and
quivering voice he concluded: “Louisiana instructed
her delegation to vote as a unit; two of the number
refuse to act with the majority; they can retain their
seats, but they have no voice, they can not represent
the State.” The impetuous old gentleman descended
from the bench on which he stood, to command
attention to his remarks, and strode out of the assembly,
followed by nine of his <hi rend="italics"><foreign lang="fr">confrères</foreign></hi>. To my unspeakable
dismay  -  for I was too hot-headed to be reasonable
amid so much excitement  -  I saw my husband
and his colleague remain seated, the delinquents
toward whom the defiant finger of the creole Hotspur
had been directed. General Clark's attitude in the
Mississippi delegation was scarcely less conservative
than that of my clear-headed husband.</p>
          <p>Poor Mrs. Clark was detained several days, until
<pb id="flag48" n="48"/>
a flag of truce could be obtained from the nearest
Confederate post to escort her to New Orleans, and
we had ample time to talk over the rush of events
since the exciting period when we had last sat side
by side.</p>
          <p>After the Federals evacuated we were induced to go
to Baton Rouge to inquire concerning the welfare of
certain friends who had returned to town, and of others
who remained during the conflict witnesses of the
struggle. Pickets commanded all the approaches
during the Federal occupation, and at first only the <hi rend="italics">loyal</hi>
were permitted to pass. It is needless, perhaps, to say
what class composed the “truly loyal,” thus early in
the war, in an extreme Southern State. Ignorant and
brutal negroes, who for generations had been kept
under some kind of control, rushed past the pickets
without a challenge, and no doubt contributed no
small share to the indiscriminate robbery and devilish
destruction which we in our indignation attributed
to the common soldiers, who, by the death of General
Williams (unfortunately killed in the battle of Baton
Rouge), were left under officers certainly unequal to
the task of keeping them in subordination. It was
only after the place had been <hi rend="italics">sacked</hi>  -  I believe that is
the word, though it is scarcely comprehensive enough
 -  that the former residents were allowed to enter and
view the abomination of desolation. More than one
distressed man returned to his wife, detained at
<pb id="flag49" n="49"/>
Arlington by the claims of maternity, with a few broken
articles or a bag of willfully mutilated clothing, and
reported, “This is all I could find at home.”</p>
          <p>Several days after the evacuation we ventured to
enter the gates of our sweet little city, on errands of
mercy, mingled with no little curiosity to see the
condition in which it had been left by its unwelcome and
turbulent visitors. The tall, broad-spreading shade-trees
that lined the streets had been felled and thrown
across all the leading thoroughfares, impeding travel
so that our landau made many ineffectual attempts to
thread its way. At last I descended and walked the
dusty, littered, shadeless streets from square to square.
Seeing the front door of the late Judge Morgan's
house thrown wide open, and knowing that his widow
and daughters, after asking protection for their
property of the commanding general, had left before the
battle, I entered. No words can tell the scene that
those deserted rooms presented. The grand portraits,
heirlooms of that aristocratic family, men of the
Revolutionary period, high-bred dames of a long-past
generation in short bodices, puffed sleeves, towering
headdresses, and quaint golden chains  -  ancestors long
since dead, not only valuable as likenesses that could
not be duplicated, but acknowledged works of art  -
these portraits hung upon the walls, slashed by
swords clear across from side to side, stabbed and
mutilated in every brutal way! The contents of
<pb id="flag50" n="50"/>
store-closets had been poured over the floors; molasses and
vinegar, and everything that defaces and stains, had
been smeared over walls and furniture. Up-stairs,
<hi rend="italics">armoires</hi> with mirror-doors had been smashed in with
heavy axes or hammers, and the dainty dresses of the
young ladies torn and crushed with studied, painstaking
malignity, while china, toilet articles, and bits of
glass that ornamented the rooms were thrown upon
the beds and broken and ground into a mass of
fragments; desks were wrenched open, and the contents
scattered not only through the house, but out upon
the streets, to be wafted in all directions; parts of
their private letters as well as letters from the desks
of other violated homes, and family records torn from
numberless bibles, were found on the sidewalks of
the town, and even on the public roads beyond town
limits!</p>
          <p>Judge Morgan's was the only vacated house I
entered. It was enough: I was too heart-sick and
indignant to seek another evidence of the lengths to which
a conquering army can go in pitiless, unmeaning
destruction, when nothing can result from such
vandalism but hatred and revenge.</p>
          <p>All the devastation that harrowed my soul on that
visit was not entirely due to the conquering army.
The Confederate attack, on that day so full of sad and
tender memories, was made from the rear of the city.
The men in gray sprung over the fences and swarmed
<pb id="flag51" n="51"/>
through the cemeteries, trampled down the graves,
rushed over the little crosses and demolished and
scattered the larger monuments that marked the
resting-place of their own beloved dead, making, in that wild
and desperate onslaught, ruins that tender hands and
loving hearts have never yet been able to entirely
repair.</p>
          <p>My husband soon found that the distracted state
of the country, the upheaving of the very foundation
upon which our domestic life was based, and the idleness
into which the negroes lapsed, partly from lack
of steady work caused by the destruction of the
growing crops, was more than he could endure.</p>
          <p>So, in direct violation of military orders issued
from headquarters in New Orleans, prohibiting the
transfer of slaves from one plantation to another, a
number of our negroes were sent to my brother's
plantation, where work was provided for them, by which
they could at least earn their food, and at the same
time partially relieve us of an element of querulous
discontent that was fast becoming dangerous.</p>
          <p>Our experience before and after the battle was so
painful and harassing as to lead to the determination
never again to be placed under the arbitrary rule of
the army of occupation, whose frequent arrests and
incarcerations in the common jail of unoffending citizens
under the most frivolous pretexts, and often with no
pretexts at all, made our very lives insecure. Believing
<pb id="flag52" n="52"/>
that at no distant day we would have to accept the
only alternative, voluntary exile, preparations for
departure were quietly matured. The landau was
exchanged for a rockaway, and this, with the curtains
buttoned down, and some alterations in the seats to
render a sleeping-place possible, made a reasonably
comfortable traveling vehicle. A stout wagon, with
a cotton cover, was put in order, to carry food and
such articles as were necessary in camping out during
a long journey, and six of the best and strongest
mules were stabled with their harness hanging beside
them for use at a moment's warning. We did not
have long to wait.</p>
        </div2>
        <pb id="flag53" n="53"/>
        <div2 type="chapter">
          <head>CHAPTER VII.
<lb/>
SECOND VISIT OF THE ENEMY  -  MIDNIGHT FLIGHT  -  FAREWELL
TO ARLINGTON.</head>
          <p>THE only exact date I can remember, and <hi rend="italics">that</hi> I
can never forget, was the 17th of December.</p>
          <p>The weather was warm for the season, a thick fog
hung over the river, obscuring objects only a few yards
distant. As I stood by the window, in the early morning,
completing my toilet, the white, misty curtain
rolled up like a scroll, revealing a fleet of gunboats.
Far as the eye could reach, up and down and around
our point, the river was bristling with gayly flagged
transports, anchored mid-stream, waiting for the
dissipation of the mist to proceed. In a twinkling all
was excitement with the hurry and bustle of preparation
for our immediate departure. A breakfast eaten
“on the fly,” as it were, a rushing here and there, and
packing of necessaries for our journey, God only knew
whither, we did not care where, so we escaped a
repetition of scenes that had made us old before our time,
and life a constant excitement that was burning us up.
William was dispatched to the city on a tour of
<pb id="flag54" n="54"/>
observation. He returned, to report ten thousand men
and the most warlike demonstrations that the darky's
genius could invent; pickets to be stationed away
beyond Arlington, and all of us to be embraced within
the lines and made to “toe de mark.” “Mars Jim,
and every white man what harbored a Confederate
soldier de time of de fight, was to be tuk prisoner.”
The more William told, the more he remembered to
tell; and, long before he was through with his recital,
I was perplexed, bewildered, and almost distracted.</p>
          <p>The negro men were summoned from their quarters
to help load the wagon. We put in cooking-utensils,
some dishes and plates, bedding and a small mattress,
a few kegs and boxes of necessary provisions, a trunk
of clothing, some small bags and bundles  -  that was all.</p>
          <p>I wandered through the dear old rooms of the
house where we had lived ten happy years, taking a
mournful farewell of a whole <hi rend="italics">armoire</hi> of dinner and
ball dresses, that were of no use to me now, packed a
trunk full of laces, flowers, feathers, and other such
useless things that were found here and there in boxes
and drawers, leaving the packed things in a front
room. The only thing among them I specially remember
was a partly made album quilt that bore the signatures
of numberless friends and of some distinguished
personages. When Baton Rouge was threatened, and
indeed after its capture, trunks, bags, and bundles,
belonging to men off “on service,” were at various times
<pb id="flag55" n="55"/>
conveyed to Arlington for safe-keeping. These I now
opened, and all the letters and papers they contained
were destroyed.</p>
          <p>The mules safely locked in the stable, the harnesses
all ready to slip on, extra straps and ropes thrown into
the wagon  -  too excited to sleep, we threw ourselves on
our beds for the last time; too tired to talk, sore at
heart, too worn out to weep. There we lay in a fitful
and uneasy slumber. In the dead stillness of the
night there came a low tap at our chamber-door.
“Mars Jim!” My husband was on his feet with a
bound. “Your niggers is all gone to de Yankees; de
pickets is on our place, and dey done told your niggers
you would be arrested at daylight!” The speaker was
head sugar-maker on an adjoining plantation, himself
a slave. “Call Dominick and tell him to get my buggy
ready while I put on some clothes,” was the only
response. I lighted the candle and hurried my husband
off, while he whispered directions for me to join him
immediately after breakfast at the house of a neighbor
five miles back of us, which he could speedily reach
by going through the woods, and to have one of the
men drive the wagon and one drive the ambulance
through the longer but better wagon-road.</p>
          <p>That was all  -  and he was gone! Knowing that
my husband's disregard of military orders by the
removal of negroes from Arlington to my brother's
plantation rendered him liable to immediate arrest,
<pb id="flag56" n="56"/>
it was an untold relief to feel that he was safe beyond
Federal reach.</p>
          <p>I did not lie down again, but wandered around in
an aimless sort of way, too excited and nervous to sit
still a moment, and too distracted to do a useful or
sensible thing. At the first appearance of dawn I
aroused William to prepare breakfast, and Charlotte to
get the table ready. Before the children were awake,
I was down at the stable, having William and Willy
hitch up the teams. I saw with half an eye that William
was not in sympathy with our plans, and knew
intuitively that my husband distrusted him, else he and
not Dominick would have been the one to pilot him
through the canebrake and woods the previous night.
Incidentally William dropped remarks to the effect that
he “could lend a hand at harnessing, but he never <hi rend="italics">druv</hi>
mules; he <hi rend="italics">know'd a smatterin'</hi> 'bout <hi rend="italics">hosses</hi>, but <hi rend="italics">mules</hi>
(with a sneer) was clean away from him.” With
difficulty I repressed my disappointment regarding further
help from him in my emergency. He who had been
my husband's valet in his gay bachelor days and our
confidential servant, our very aid and help in all my
bright married life, had had his poor woolly head
turned by that one trip to town, and asserted his
independence at the first shadow of provocation. William
failing me, I knew I must seek other help. Some
of the negroes had left during the night, but I was
aware that others remained who might seek exemption
<pb id="flag57" n="57"/>
from service now that they were in sight of the flag
whose brilliant stars and stripes were plainly visible
floating from the dome of the State Capitol. Being
ready and eager to start, I immediately went down to
the quarters a half-mile distant; there I waited, going
from cabin to cabin, and walked to the dwelling-house
and back again. Willy stood by the hitched-up
teams, and Sabe, near by, held the baby in her arms,
while little Henry clung to her skirts. Then back to
the quarters. This man “had a <hi rend="italics">misery</hi> in his back
-  had it ever since the crevasse”; that man “never
<hi rend="italics">druv</hi> in his life  -  didn't I know he was de engineer?”
Another man “wouldn't drive old <sic corr="Sal">Sall</sic>  -  she was de
<hi rend="italics">balkinest</hi> mule on de place; you won't git a mile
from here 'fore she takes de <hi rend="italics">studs</hi> and wont budge
a step.” “Well, drive us that mile.” “Not me! I
don't 'low to walk home wid dis here lame foot.” I
could have sat down and wept my very heart out. It
was long past noon; the harnessed mules had to be
fed, and William made out to say: “We had better
take a little <hi rend="italics">snack</hi> and give it up; if we stayed home,
Mars Jim would come back; the Yankees didn't have
nothing 'gin him.”</p>
          <p>I could hardly hold my tongue by almost biting it
off  - so helpless  -  so worried; and ever and anon the
thought of my husband's impatient waiting almost
crazed me. At last old Dave said he “warn't no hand
wid mules, but he 'low'd he could tackle old Sal till
<pb id="flag58" n="58"/>
she balked.” There was no time for bargaining for
another driver now. I caught at Dave's offer before
he knew it, only stopping long enough to bid all the
deluded creatures a hasty good-by. Old “Aunt Hannah”
(that was my mother's laundress long before I
was born, and who had been given a cabin to herself
to sun away her half-blind and grumbling old age)
stood in her little cabin-door, as straight as an arrow;
she always complained of <hi rend="italics">rheumatiz</hi>, and I don't think
I ever saw her straight before; but there she stood,
with the air of one suddenly elevated to an exalted
position, and waved me a “Good-by, madam -  I b'ar
you no malice.”</p>
          <p>Dave was hurried by my rapid steps back to the
stable, and Sabe came out with the tired children.
Just as I thought we were fairly off, William
announced, “Sence you was gone, a Yankee gunboat is
cum down and I see it's anchored 'tween us and
Kernel Hickey's.” A peep around the corner of the
house confirmed the truth of his statement. Hastily
grasping a carpet-bag, lying ready packed in the
ambulance, I ascended to my bedroom, took from it two
large pockets quilted thick with jewels which I
secured about my person, while Charlotte put the breakfast
forks and spoons in the bottom of the bag.
When I returned to the teams, everybody was standing
about, apparently waiting to see what “Miss 'Liza”
would do <hi rend="italics">now</hi>. Summoning every effort to command
<pb id="flag59" n="59"/>
a voice whose quaver must have betrayed my intense
emotion, I directed Willy to mount the wagon, a few
last baskets and packages were tossed into the
ambulance, and Henry's little pony tied behind. I got in,
then the little ones and Sabe; Dave shambled into his
place in front; the curtain cutting off the driver's seat
was carefully rolled up, so I could have an unobstructed
view, and Willy was told to lead the way.
Twice I had bidden Charlotte, whose mournful eyes
had followed me all day, a tearful farewell, and twice
I had returned from a fruitless and unsuccessful tramp
to the negro quarters. At the last moment I waved
her good-by as she stood sobbing by William's side
on the veranda, watching us as with bowed heads and
heavy hearts we drove through the gate of our once
lovely home.</p>
          <p>So I rode away from Arlington, leaving the
sugar-house crowded to its utmost capacity with the
entire crop of sugar and molasses of the previous year
for which we had been unable to find a market within
“our lines,” leaving cattle grazing in the fields, sheep
wandering over the levee, doors and windows flung
wide open, furniture in the rooms, clothes too fine for
me to wear now hanging in the <hi rend="italics">armoires</hi>, china in the
closets, pictures on the walls, beds unmade, table
spread. It was late in the afternoon of that bright,
clear, bracing day, December 18, 1862, that I bade
Arlington adieu forever!</p>
        </div2>
        <pb id="flag60" n="60"/>
        <div2 type="chapter">
          <head>CHAPTER VIII.
<lb/>
“PICKETS DOWN DAR!”  -  HARD JOURNEYING  - WILLY'S FATE  -
CHARLOTTE.</head>
          <p>THE whole plantation field-work was done with
mules, and I really believe Willy was the only person
on the place, capable of driving, who had never
managed a team of four. He moved slowly up toward
the town, as directed. I think Dave felt a little
reassured so long as he faced the Federal flag; but at
Gartness Lane the wagon turned in, leaving the starry
emblem to the left; then Dave stopped to remark
that he believed he “had gone 'bout far enough  -
p'raps Sabe could drive, but <hi rend="italics">he</hi> wouldn't.” Here was
the supreme moment for me. There was a small
pistol-case on the seat behind me. I do not know to
this day whether that pistol was loaded or not, but
there was no time to waste, and I was in no frame of
mind for hesitation. I pulled it out like a professional
highwayman, held it close to Dave's woolly
head, and ordered him to follow the wagon, or I'd
blow his brains out! Even now, when I think of
that moment, my lips quiver and my hands tremble.
<pb id="flag61" n="61"/>
Not a word did Dave utter, but, with one scared look
that made his old black face ashy, he drove through
the gate and closely followed the wagon.</p>
          <p>By evening we reached the end of Gartness Lane,
and a black head popped out of the bushes. “Don't
go dat road, pickets down dar!” so we turned up the
road we wanted to go down. When it was quite dark,
we reached a house, where we asked to remain all
night, and there to my intense astonishment I met
our overseer, who, instead of remaining on the
plantation attending to his duties, had taken flight on the
first appearance of the Federals. He had departed
without the slightest notification, leaving me to do
the best I could, without the help of a living soul
but little Willy; seeking a place of safety for his
worthless self, and in that place of safety I found him
at night  -  waiting for me!</p>
          <p>I was too dejected, helpless, and cowed, to say anything
more than that I was pleased to see him, and
would he be good enough to help Willy feed the
mules; and be sure to put Dave in a safe place, as he
was my only dependence for a driver until I could
join my husband?</p>
          <p>The next morning, the first thing I heard was, that
Dave had stolen Henry's pony and absconded! Words
fail to express my indignation, but I controlled
sufficient vocabulary to give the overseer my opinion of
him in terms that must have made him think he was
<pb id="flag62" n="62"/>
a very contemptible piece of humanity. He was given
to understand that he must tie his horse to the tail
of the wagon, and take the reins of the four mules,
while Willy would drive the ambulance.</p>
          <p>I never saw before the people who so hospitably
entertained us that night, and have forgotten their
names, but I presume they thought I was equal to any
emergency, and did not wonder I had been left to
“paddle my own canoe.”</p>
          <p>The rest comes to my mind in vague confusion.
Recollections of woolly heads popping out of bushes
at every cross-road, and, sending us the roundabout
way, with the whisper, “Pickets down dat road!”
temporary bridges over impassable places, felled trees
shoved aside, fences taken down for us to pass through
woods and fields to come to an open road, and the
oft-repeated warning, “Pickets down dar!”  -  it is all now
like a dim, troubled dream. On the third day we
emerged on a broad highway, where were wagons
loaded with furniture, beds, bundles, cooking-utensils,
articles of clothing, old trunks and barrels overflowing
with hastily collected household effects, being laboriously
drawn by broken-down, emaciated horses, whose
days of active service had long since departed. A
few decrepit, bedraggled, dejected women, with whole
families of shivering children, walked the dusty
roadside.</p>
          <p>These were the “rear-guard,” as it were, of a little
<pb id="flag63" n="63"/>
army of wretched citizens fleeing from their broken
homes. On the afternoon of that (my third) day's
travel, now quite voiceless from severe cold, and very
nearly exhausted, we arrived in front of a comfortable-
looking plantation-house. I gave out completely when
I saw its wide-open veranda doors and all the surroundings
of a luxurious resting-place. Willy was sent in
to ask if we could stop there, and returned with a
beaming face to say it was Mr. Pierce's house, and
that my husband had been there looking for me, and
had gone to make further search, promising to return
at night. His anxiety for my safety had been greatly
increased through numerous reports circulated by the
refugees from Baton Rouge, to the effect that a Federal
gunboat had landed at Arlington subsequent to
his hurried departure, and, failing to capture him, had
taken his wife and children on board, and then proceeded
to New Orleans. The rumor, reasserted in
various forms, had so great a resemblance to truth
that he was nearly distracted, and not till late in the
evening, when he found us safe at Mr. Pierce's, did he
know the facts. My heart burst with its burden of
anxieties when I saw my husband again and was
infolded in his strong arms, only thirteen miles from
our own home, and I had been three days making it!
Arlington with all its attractions was nothing. I said
then, as I say now, “I never desire to see it again.”
The brightest hours of my early life were spent there,
<pb id="flag64" n="64"/>
but the remembrance is blotted out by the painful
incidents of the last days at the dear old home.</p>
          <p>In consequence of the contagious nature of the illness
in Mr. Pierce's house, we took a hasty departure
the following morning. He gave us a small army-tent
that was found on his place after the battle; it was
thankfully stored in the wagon. Thirty miles farther
brought us to my brother's home, where we tarried
several days. Willy was reluctant to go on with us,
and we needed him no longer, so he returned to
Arlington with the buggy, which was also useless. The
boy, months afterward, while engaged in guarding a
neighbor's cotton from roving bands of self-styled
guerrillas, who were as much to be feared as the enemy,
was found stark and stiff with a bullet in his heart
and a gun clutched in his cold hands, his face turned
heavenward, whither his brave spirit had flown. Sad
fate for the noble, faithful boy!</p>
          <p>One word about Charlotte, a type of a class of
slaves, one specimen at least of which was to be found
in every well-governed establishment. “Aunt” Charlotte
was a trusted member of my husband's family
when “old miss,” as she with affectionate reverence
always called his mother, was at the head of the household.
Her zeal in our service never flagged; she had
no higher ambition than the faithful discharge of her
daily duties. She superintended the details of our
house with systematic precision, “achieved,” as she
<pb id="flag65" n="65"/>
expressed it, from “old miss.” The day after our
abrupt departure, the Federals took possession of all
that remained on the plantation. Our old home was
quickly stripped. Charlotte  -  I think in the vain hope
of our return  -  claimed certain valuable articles of
furniture and my portrait, and, with William and their
baby, secured a vacant house in town, and there they
received Willy upon his return. This much we knew
before we left Louisiana.</p>
          <p>To a relative who saw her two years later in her
own room, the poor creature with sobs told of the
death of her baby, repeating again and again, “If
Miss 'Liza had been here, my baby wouldn't have died.”
She opened the trunk I had left in the house, and
with careful hands took out the faded finery and bit
of silk patchwork to show how she was keeping it for
“Miss 'Liza.” A short while after this the poor soul
became hopelessly insane. Now she rests!</p>
        </div2>
        <pb id="flag66" n="66"/>
        <div2 type="chapter">
          <head>CHAPTER IX.
<lb/>
CAMPING BY NIGHT  -  FORLORN WOMEN  -  BEAUMONT  -  HOUSTON.</head>
          <p>WE were going to Texas, the great State that
opened its hospitable doors to hundreds of refugees
fleeing like ourselves from their own homes. We were
going to Texas for many reasons.</p>
          <p>A loving brother was there, and our slaves were
there at peaceful work on land cultivated on shares.
We had, besides, the feeling that the Federals could
never get a foothold on its boundless prairies, though
they had made an ominous beginning by capturing its
most valuable seaport; but, above and beyond all, we
could take refuge in Mexico if the worse came to the
worst.</p>
          <p>We had long journeys of days that ran into weeks,
of camping under a tent that was scarce large enough
to cover four. Every night after the day's ride, fodder,
that was picked up in the fields bordering the
road, was carefully spread on the bare ground, with
comforts and a blanket on top, and we stowed ourselves
away, each with a child to keep warm. Often
we rose in the morning to find the ground covered
<pb id="flag67" n="67"/>
with frost, and the tent too stiff to be folded into
the wagon. Then, crossing rivers by rope-ferries,
“manned” by women whose husbands were in the
mountains of Virginia or the swamps around
Vicksburg  -  frail rope-ferries, that could only take one
vehicle at a time without risk of sinking; riding by
day, camping by night, occasionally in rainy weather
asking shelter at houses by the road side; though
never refused, the accommodations were always scant
and more or less uncomfortable. Proceeding west,
we found the people poorer and more ignorant,
consequently more helpless. In many instances only women
and children were left in the almost destitute
farmhouses. One rainy Sunday afternoon we stopped at
a miserable country house  -  the first one we had seen
all that day  -  which consisted of two rooms and a
porch perched a few feet above the ground on the
inevitable six stumps which formed the foundation, and
a retreat at the same time for pigs and chickens.
After rapping and calling for some time, finding no
response, and the door on the latch, we ventured to
enter the deserted house. The rafters were hung
with long leaves of partly cured tobacco, and there
was a remnant of fire on the capacious hearth, with
other evidences that the owner was temporarily absent.
Not a living thing was to be seen around the premises
but a broken-down, one-eyed horse, and an ancient
rooster, that strutted around in solitary state. In the
<pb id="flag68" n="68"/>
course of the afternoon two forlorn women made their
appearance with a handkerchief full of “borrowed”
corn-meal, for, except a pound or two of rusty bacon,
they had nothing whatever in the house to eat. It
was difficult for my husband to believe they could be
so destitute that they had to walk in a drizzling rain
four miles to a neighbor to borrow a half-peck of
meal; he freely offered to pay any price for a few
ears of corn for the mules. They were not to be had.</p>
          <p>Their husbands (they were mother and daughter)
had gone “to fight Lincoln,” they pathetically told
us, and when they went, “now gwine on two year,”
they expected to “git done with the job” in a month.
The poor women had eaten everything their husbands
left them but the “<hi rend="italics">terbacker</hi>,” and, from the way they
smoked and chewed that night, I am afraid they
consumed all that before the men returned, if, alas! they
ever did. We had hoped, being only twenty miles or
so from the town of Beaumont, on the Sabine River,
to find some variation in our own camp-diet. The
poor baby had been fed on sweet-potatoes  -  the brave
little fellow only six months old. When we asked
for milk, they showed us the old one-eyed <hi rend="italics">mar</hi>, stretching
her long, skinny neck over the broken fence, as the
“onlyest she-critter'” they had. In despair for
ourselves and pity for them, we brought out our camp
supplies  -  coffee, sugar, salt, and hard-tack  -  and the
famished women enjoyed a sumptuous feast with the
<pb id="flag69" n="69"/>
hot corn-bread and fried bacon they were able to
add.</p>
          <p>We were allowed to occupy their only bed, and I
think there were a million of <hi rend="italics"><foreign lang="la">cimices lectuarii</foreign></hi> in it,
for Henry and the patient little baby presented
the appearance of having measles when we awoke the next
morning.</p>
          <p>We parted from our wagon and its camping facilities
at the door of this old cabin, sending it by road
direct to Houston, proposing ourselves to take cars at
Beaumont, thereby saving at least sixty miles of wagon
travel, which mode of conveyance had become intolerably
wearisome to the children.</p>
          <p>The only tavern at that picturesquely located town
was less adapted to the accommodation of man than
of beast. There was but one guest-chamber, and its
only entrance was through a combination of office,
bar, smoking and lounging room, presided over by the
landlord, a kindly, hunchbacked dwarf, whose wife, a
comely, intelligent woman, by the way, was the first
“<hi rend="italics">dipper</hi>” I ever saw. She confined herself mostly to
the kitchen, where her pot of snuff and dip-stick were
conveniently at hand on the window-sill, and between
dips  -  I refrain from describing the process  -  attended
to her domestic duties. The universal assembly-room
was the only one provided with a fireplace. As a
severe storm of rain and sleet, accompanied by a
sharp fall in temperature, set in on Monday, the very
<pb id="flag70" n="70"/>
day of our arrival, and continued with increasing fury
until Friday, I sat all those days in a corner by a
smoky fire, with baby wrapped in shawls on my lap.
We were the only lodgers, so far as could be discovered,
but the boarders hung round the same pitiful
fire from meal to meal, reluctant to brave the
inhospitable elements. They smoked pipes, talked, chewed,
and expectorated hour after hour, but I was so glad
of a warm, dry corner, and not inappreciative of the
scant courtesy showed to the only lady in the crowd,
that I had no complaints to make. No recollection
remains to me regarding the time-table of the
Houston and Beaumont Railroad, but a dim idea
dawns that it was intended to make a round trip daily,
<hi rend="italics"><foreign lang="it">Deo volente</foreign></hi>, which implied “weather permitting”; but
when rain soaked the wood piled by the road-side so
that it would not make steam, or when sleet made the
rails slippery, travel was entirely suspended. As both
these contingencies existed the week we were in
Beaumont, of course no travel could be thought of.</p>
          <p>At Orange faint rumors were circulated that
Galveston had been recaptured by the Confederates.
Proceeding west, those rumors became more frequent and
positive; and the last day at Beaumont we had the
happiness to have them verified by eye-witnesses of
General Magruder's heroic and gallant act, which
could scarcely have been excelled by any similar event
of the war. The story, repeated again and again, with
<pb id="flag71" n="71"/>
added particulars at every recital, gave us mighty food
for boastful talk, and our hearts so glowed with the
warmth of excitement, that it was not surprising the
sun burst out from the dark clouds then and there,
and scattered the sleety rain-drops.</p>
          <p>Master Henry had been so long confined to the
smoky, stale odor of the sitting-room, that he took
immediate advantage of the clearing weather to
explore the town, whose mysteries he had studied for
days through the grimy, rain-spotted windows. When
missed, he could not be found. Beaumont is located
on a high, almost perpendicular bluff, which runs
sheer down to the bed of the narrow river. As the
tavern was only a stone's-throw from this precipitous
bank, the first thought was that the child might have
tumbled into the river. Our kind landlord himself
headed a search, and, when the children at the school
were dismissed at recess, they also joined in. When,
some time afterward, the enterprising young scamp
was found, quietly watching the men at work in a sawmill
out of town, the whole population had already
been aroused. Meanwhile my husband  -  with an
occasional little inquiring trip to the door, which did
not arouse my suspicions  -  remained with me engaged
in earnest discussion of the news from Galveston, in
which, as in all particulars concerning the war, I was
always so easily interested as to become for the time
oblivious of every other subject. So well did he
<pb id="flag72" n="72"/>
manage the self-imposed task, that the little truant was
brought back before I had felt any anxiety on the
score of his absence.</p>
          <p>After a long day's snail-like progress, the train
stopping every few miles to take a load of wet and
soggy wood, and every few minutes to get up steam,
slipping, sliding, and sometimes refusing point-blank
to budge until all the men got out in the mud and
slush to “giv her a shove,” we reached Houston after
midnight, tired, cold, hungry, and cross, to find no
conveyance at the muddy, inhospitable shed of a depot
to carry us to a hotel.</p>
          <p>One of our fellow-passengers, who had also sat by
the Beaumont fire, procured a carriage from a stable
near by, and in the wee hours of the morning our
party tumbled into the “Old Capitol.” I believe
there is a new hotel of the same name on the spot
now, of which Houstonians are justly proud; and, as
our advance in the refinement of life is measured by
the depths from which we started, they will not be
offended if reminded that the “Old Capitol,” in wartimes,
was about as wretched a hostelry as could have
been found on the face of this continent.</p>
          <p>A small bucket, filled with cold meat and sweet-potatoes
by the hostess of the Beaumont tavern, to serve
in case of delay, was so liberally shared with the other
hungry passengers of the train, that we were famished
when we arrived at Houston. Nothing whatever to
<pb id="flag73" n="73"/>
eat was procurable at that late hour. Sabe managed
to kindle a fire in the grate of our chilly chamber,
already filled with half-burned coals, ashes, scraps of
paper, stumps, and quids of discarded tobacco, and we
were made more comfortable by a cup of coffee from
our own camp supply.</p>
          <p>Upon the edge of boasted grazing prairies, where
the grass furnished boundless pasturage for cattle too
numerous to be counted, not a drop of milk could be
had for patient baby, who had almost forgotten the
taste of the only food he ought to have had, not a
particle of butter to soften the dry sweet-potato he had
to eat, not even a piece of broiled steak. Milk and
butter, we were coolly told, were out of season (one
would have thought they were vegetables and fruit
like green peas and peaches), and the meat, tough and
stringy, was fried to the consistency of leather.</p>
          <p>A dark purple calico dress and black cloth sacque,
my hair combed straight back <hi rend="italics"><foreign lang="fr">à la chinoise</foreign></hi>, and
protected from dust by a cap of chenille, a home-made
palmetto hat of the “wash-bowl” pattern, with a fold
of black bombazine around the crown, constituted the
costume in which I had traveled and camped. The
first morning in that unique hotel, decked out in my
black bombazine, my hair in the broad, spreading
bands over the ears, as was the fashion, I sallied out
to breakfast. A freshly shaved gentleman in broadcloth
passed and repassed me with a perplexed look
<pb id="flag74" n="74"/>
that attracted my notice. Glances of inquiry were
exchanged, followed by peals of laughter; the outfit of
our Beaumont friend had been even shabbier than
mine, and each found the other metamorphosed by
change of clothes almost beyond recognition. While
enjoying a hearty laugh over the affair, another
butterfly emerged from the chrysalis state, and we stoutly
refused to recognize my husband fresh from the barber
and boot-black.</p>
          <p>Drums were beating, flags flying, and the whole
city in holiday attire, streets filled with crowds jostling
their way toward a grand stand erected on a broad
open space in Main Street, where, with some music,
more speeches, and most cheers, a pretty young lady
in a blue silk evening-dress presented in the name of
the “Lone Star State” (as Texas loved to call herself)
a superb sword to the gallant general whose dashing
heroism had wrested their island city from the grasp
of the foe, and much more to the same effect. General
Magruder, whose soldierly bearing was somewhat
marred by an unfortunate lisp in his utterance,
conveying the impression of effeminate affectation,
graciously received it, and, refusing the assistance of his
aide, buckled it himself about his gorgeous uniform
with a solemn oath that it should never be sheathed
while the enemy was on Confederate soil, etc., all very
grand, glittering, and impressive. I can not but smile
now when the scene comes back to me, as I stood in
<pb id="flag75" n="75"/>
the thickest of the throng, holding Henry by the
hand, my heart almost bursting with proud emotion,
my eyes dim with grateful tears, and hoping the boy
was inhaling patriotism with every breath, though
still too young to understand and appreciate the
greatness of the occasion. That the elegant sword was
<hi rend="italics">borrowed</hi> for the presentation from a veteran of the war
with Mexico, and was only typical of a more
magnificent weapon to be substituted later when
circumstances would permit, and was to be returned with
thanks to its owner that very night, did not cause a
ripple of a derisive smile. Every emotion was merged
in patriotic fervor.</p>
          <p>Years after, when General Magruder became our
guest in a foreign land, how uproariously we laughed
at the incident when he repeated, in his peculiarly
halting lisp, portions of the gushing address, and in
his inimitable way went through the motions of
buckling on the borrowed saber, which, by the way, the
donors had never been able to replace!</p>
        </div2>
        <pb id="flag76" n="76"/>
        <div2 type="chapter">
          <head>CHAPTER X.
<lb/>
TRAVELING THROUGH TEXAS  -  NEARING THE RIO GRANDE.</head>
          <p>ONCE in Texas, we moved around with our
fast-vanishing <hi rend="italics"><foreign lang="fr">lares et penates</foreign></hi> as business or convenience
required. The dear baby succumbed to the first
illness he ever had, and one beautiful April day his
little body was carried to the cemetery at Houston
and buried, as was our blessed Saviour, in a tomb
belonging to another. The cradle that had been kindly
loaned us by a neighbor, and the various little cups
and mugs, also borrowed, were returned, the medicine-
bottles put out of sight, and I sat down desolate and
lonely in the empty room, with no heart to do any
more, feeling that there was nothing now to do but
to lie down and die.</p>
          <p>My husband, whose energy was all-controlling, and
who knew no such word as fail, rose above every
emergency. It seems now, when I recall it all, the
heavier were the blows, the stouter his resistance. I
actually learned in those days to feel something
discouraging had happened when he came into my
presence with a brighter smile and more cheerful words
<pb id="flag77" n="77"/>
than usual. His was one of those rare natures to
persevere and resist against the blows that would have
prostrated almost any other man. He had contracts
to move Government cotton to the frontier, which
afforded him opportunities to move his own; and in
following up that cotton we took more than one trip
to the Rio Grande, repeating the camping out, minus
the tent, which was patriotically turned over to General
Magruder upon our arrival at Houston.</p>
          <p>We now made our bed in the ambulance; only
two could possibly occupy that. Sometimes Henry
shared it with me, and his father lay upon the ground
underneath the vehicle, and often the boy slept on
Mother Earth. We still had that “prairie-schooner”
of a wagon to carry our clothing, provisions, cooking-
utensils, and a servant-woman. Our ablutions were
performed habitually in the horse-bucket, and the
towel  -  we were reduced to one, the others having been
ruined or blown away while camping out  -  the
precious towel, pinned to the ambulance-curtain, flapped
in the breeze and dried as we rode along.</p>
          <p>It was not always plain sailing; adventures were
frequent. We had the ill luck, on the first trip to the
Rio Grande, to put up in Victoria at the meanest and
dirtiest hotel I ever dreamed of. It was not half so
comfortable as the ambulance and the horse-bucket,
but that could not be found out until it had been
tried. The room assigned us was immediately over
<pb id="flag78" n="78"/>
what they were pleased to call the office, but which
was really a bar-room; and one unacquainted with
Texas in those days can not understand what a
bar-room pure and simple was. I was too tired and sleepy
to fight long with the various creatures in the bed that
had previous possession, which is nine points of the
law. By and by, giving up the battle, I fell sound
asleep.</p>
          <p>My husband, being a light sleeper, was easily
roused by outside noises. He spent the greater part
of the night with ear and eye at the cracks in the
floor, that furnished a pretty good view into the bar-room
beneath, and then and there heard the thirsty,
boisterous couriers from General Bee to General
Magruder tell that the Federals were in Brownsville, and
that the place was evacuated. The ubiquitous
Yankees! Even away out on the borders of the
Guadalupe River we had to hear the old story  -  “Pickets
down dat road!”</p>
          <p>What to do was the question that concerned us
now. The couriers fortified themselves with drinks,
and were off to Magruder before the dawn. By the
time I was awake, my husband had procured a
dilapidated old map, and was studying out the situation.
Our cotton was on the road to Brownsville; the news
soon came, however, that General Bee had ordered all
the cotton-teams back, and directed them to Laredo.
To Laredo we prepared to go. At General Bee's
<pb id="flag79" n="79"/>
urgent advice, it was, at the last moment of starting,
decided that Henry, my negro servant-woman, and I,
should return to my brother's in the interior of Texas.
My husband and a few men, on the same cotton
errand, joined together for mutual protection, but they
did not relish the additional care of two women
and a great white covered wagon, that could be seen for
miles over the flat prairie country, only broken with a
low growth of chaparral and prickly-pear. All this
was being discussed during the first day's ride from
Fernando Creek, where we met General Bee. My
husband could see, by my burning face and resolute
eye, that I was inwardly protesting the whole time.</p>
          <p>When we camped that night, the mules were
chained to the wagon-wheels, to provide against a
chance of stampede; the men, with loaded guns, were
detailed to stand watch, with eyes and ears on the
keen alert. My husband and I crept into our ambulance,
buttoned the curtains closely down, and, while
he held a dim candle in a bottle, I divided in half the
few pieces of gold coin we had; sewed twenty pieces
for him in a broad, coarse cotton belt, and twenty for
me in the bosom and hips of my corset. Then began
the division of our scanty bedding; his eyes were
filled with tears  -  that resolute man, who had borne
every blow so bravely! We could not talk, our hearts
were too full; each dared not unnerve the other by a
word. The division took place in absolute silence;
<pb id="flag80" n="80"/>
he held the candle, and I did the work. Then we
lay down for the last time together; we, who had
fought such a brave fight side by side, were to separate
now, because the dangers to be encountered were too
much for the woman. Lying very quiet, each hoping
the other would sleep, oh! how the thoughts surged
through my brain the short remnant of that night;
how earnestly I prayed to be shown the right way;
how I petitioned the all-wise God to shut from my
view all feeling of <hi rend="italics">self</hi>  -  myself, himself  -  and show
me the way, whether to turn back alone or go on by
his side! At the earliest dawn I took advantage of a
slight move to ask if he was awake, and then told him
in emphatic, plain, unmistakable terms that I was not
going back. He pressed me to his thankful heart
without a word. As we journeyed on with the rest
of the little company, we laughingly proposed that
all the money and watches be trusted to my keeping,
for, if the Mexican outlaws should pounce upon
us, surely they would not search the only lady in the
party.</p>
          <p>The next night our camp was by the ruins of an
abandoned well. Only twenty-four hours after, a
party of four men were attacked by Mexican bandits
at that very spot, and robbed of everything, even
their horses. We did not know of our narrow escape
till some days afterward, when the rifled men wearily
tramped into Laredo. It was a four-days' trip, and
<pb id="flag81" n="81"/>
in that exciting and perilous journey I am sure that
Henry and I were the only ones that slept.</p>
          <p>The sportsmen of our party often varied the bill-of-fare
with game. On several occasions early in the
journey one of the number, Mr. Dodds, brought down
a fine wild-turkey. A particularly handsome one furnished
me with a “turkey-tail fan,” the ragged edges
of which are still in my possession.</p>
          <p>Nearing the Rio Grande, the country was so barren
that the only growths were prickly-pear and mesquite,
except on the banks of the few streams. Even in that
desolate region an occasional mule-eared rabbit was
brought to camp and made into a delicious stew.</p>
          <p>Desiring to accomplish thirty-five miles each day,
we always started at the earliest dawn, fortified with
a cup of black coffee and a cracker. At noon a halt
was called of a half-hour or so, and at four we camped
for the night, when <hi rend="italics">the</hi> meal of the day was leisurely
prepared and enjoyed. Frequently we were able to
procure a kid. One of the men, who had made the
overland journey to California in the fifties, and therefore
was endowed with envied experience, was very
expert in finding, where no one else could, Mexican
<hi rend="italics"><foreign lang="es">jeccals</foreign></hi> (huts) and kids, and preparing the meat in a
variety of tempting ways; so by common consent Mr.
Crossan became our commissary and <hi rend="italics">chef</hi>. Being the
only lady in the company, I was allowed to do nothing,
and ate the hard-tack and salt pork, when there was
<pb id="flag82" n="82"/>
nothing better, with the relish that stimulating air
and exercise always impart, immensely enjoying the
savory roasts and stews. Many chats Mr. Crossan and
I had while I reclined on an improvised divan and
watched him stretch the kid on cross-sticks and
incline it over the fire <hi rend="italics"><foreign lang="fr">à la barbecue</foreign></hi>; as he turned and
basted it, there arose an appetizing odor that was
absolutely delightful. I was constantly reminding the
kindly man by my presence, of one trip he made to
California when his young wife was the only woman
in the company; and the tempting, dainty dishes he
contrived for me, and the laughable stories he told to
while away the time, I always considered a tribute to
the memory of that other woman who was so patient
and brave.</p>
        </div2>
        <pb id="flag83" n="83"/>
        <div2 type="chapter">
          <head>CHAPTER XI.
<lb/>
LAREDO  -  MEXICAN ESCORT TO PIEDRAS NEGRAS  -  THE CUSTOM-HOUSE  -  A NORTHER  -  SAN ANTONIO  -  SCARCITY OF NECESSARIES.</head>
          <p>ON the fourth day at noon we camped amid sand
and prickly-pear, to brush up and make ourselves
presentable to appear before strangers. An hour
afterward we drove into the scattering town of Laredo,
amid the plaudits of numberless little, half-naked
<hi rend="italics"><foreign lang="es">muchachos</foreign></hi> who never had seen an ambulance, never
had seen anything but themselves and the muddy
river, and at long intervals a lonely wagon. So
they hung on to the traces, ran by the wheels, and
caught on behind, at the imminent risk of bodily
injury. If they had ever heard of Queen Victoria,
they might have thought she was coming to town, for
I was the first <hi rend="italics">white</hi> woman and my attendant the
first <hi rend="italics">black</hi> one the generation had seen.</p>
          <p>I often think of the days we spent in quaint
Laredo  -  of the old priest who three times a day
solemnly issued from his adobe hut and tolled off the
hours from the big, harsh-sounding bell that
<pb id="flag84" n="84"/>
surmounted a tall staff beside the little mud-covered
church  -  of the courtesy and kindness of the women
who brought me almost daily presents of little loaves
of bread, alas! full of caraway-seed, but sweet and
warm from the adobe ovens that were scattered at
convenient distances through the village  -  of the men,
wrapped in blankets like Indians, standing aside and
giving me a courteous, deep salaam, <hi rend="italics"><foreign lang="es">sombrero</foreign></hi> in hand,
when necessity compelled me to take the quart-cup
and go to the public pen for goat's milk  -  of the
dexterous manner with which said goats were milked, all
herded in a crowded pen: the milker fastened his eye
on a certain nanny, made a rapid dart, caught her by
the left hind-foot, which he secured under his right
arm, thereby lifting the struggling creature quite off
her legs; with a quick stoop and a few lightning
strokes the cup foamed over and Mrs. Goat was released.
This trick was repeated with an accuracy and
dexterity quite bewildering. All the animals looked
alike to me, but the milker never seemed to make the
mistake of catching the same one twice. I sometimes
stood and watched the whole process, until the froth
and foam of my cup settled down, revealing very little
milk. Daily I went to the pen, both because I could
ask for it in their mixture of Spanish and Indian, and
because Delia with her ebony face was such a curiosity
as to excite a commotion every time she stepped out of
the house, and therefore she was reluctant to go. I
<pb id="flag85" n="85"/>
need not tell of the hours I sat at the only window of
our temporary home, and wrote letters that were never
sent, or made entries in a diary that was subsequently
lost, while a crowd of inquisitive urchins gathered
about, until I was forced to retreat inside and put the
writing away; nor of days that I wandered to the bluff,
and met long processions of women returning from the
river, with curiously shaped jars of water deftly balanced
on their heads, or suspended by one hand over the
shoulder, and watched other women washing clothes
without soap or hot water, by spreading them on rocks
over which the waters of the river lapped, and beating
and turning and beating them again with queer
wooden mallets, while the naked children paddled in
and out, diving, ducking, floating, and splashing
around as though water was their native element;
nor of other days when I stood on the bank to see
the long-expected cotton-wagons cross the ford to the
Mexican side; nor of the startling rumor that the
Federals, who seemed to be sweeping over the country
like a swarm of locusts, were rapidly marching up the
Rio Grande!</p>
          <p>The alarm was premature, but we immediately
crossed into Mexico. My husband's first business
venture, when still a youth, was the superintendence
of a “stage line” in the West, for which he had
a “mail contract.” In Laredo he found one of his
old <hi><foreign lang="fr">employés</foreign></hi>, who had drifted there after the war
<pb id="flag86" n="86"/>
with Mexico, married an olive beauty, and settled down
to a life of masterly inactivity. Through his kindly
offices we had been able to obtain quite comfortable
quarters, but when we crossed to “foreign parts” were
not so well housed, albeit we found more life and
animation. The frolicsome men of American Laredo,
to avoid conscription had emigrated also. Here they
amused themselves with feats of horseback-riding and
lofty tumbling, some of which were quite astonishing.
It was a frequent exploit for a rider to lean over and
pick a silver dollar from the ground while his horse
was in full gallop under whip and spur. During the
annual festival of their patron saint, “<hi><foreign lang="es">Nuestra Señora
de Guadalupe</foreign></hi>,” we walked through the plaza, filled
with gaily decked booths, and saw both men and
women win and lose bags of money at the gambling-tables
with a <hi rend="italics"><foreign lang="fr">sang-froid</foreign></hi> that indicated familiarity
with the game.</p>
          <p>The repeated rumors of Federal advance soon
caused the order to be issued to close the custom-house
at Laredo and open one at Piedras Negras, still farther
up the Rio Grande, and on the Mexican side of the
river, to which point all cotton-trains were now
directed. Our Confederate official procured from the
Governor of the State of Nuevo Leon an armed escort,
and we eagerly embraced the opportunity of safe
convoy through that wild and lawless region by joining
his party. I presume there were valuables, perhaps
<pb id="flag87" n="87"/>
specie, in his train, from the extraordinary precautions
observed against attack. Away in front of our <hi rend="italics"><foreign lang="fr">cortége</foreign></hi>,
the striped <hi rend="italics">serape</hi> of the Mexican captain was
always visible, fluttering in the wind, as he rode rapidly
forward reconnoitring the country, while we
followed in single file, surrounded by his armed men. It
was a four-days' journey, if my memory serves me.
Sometimes we halted in the middle of the day, scarcely
having scored a dozen miles, and sometimes rode until
quite dark, in order to avoid dangerous and
exposed camping-places.</p>
          <p>Arrived at Piedras Negras, the party was directed
to the only public building in the town, to which it
had been assigned by the courtesy of the Mexican
governor, and I believe, also, the only one that boasted
a fireplace, a tiny grate in an inconvenient corner,
that could hold about two chips and a handful of
coals. The weather, though late in December, gave
no indications, however, that even a small fire would
be necessary for our comfort. The building consisted
of one long, narrow room, with a small window,
innocent of glass at one end, and two doors opening on
opposite sides, one to the narrow, sandy lane that
represented a street, and the other to an uninclosed yard,
at the extreme end of which a dead dog lay swollen to
the size of a calf, but so pure was the air, no odor
from the disgusting object  -  which, of course, was
now quickly removed  -  had invaded the premises.
<pb id="flag88" n="88"/>
Our building was stucco, with some attempt at
ornamentation, in the way of whitewashed walls, with
daubs of blue here and there. The floor, of Mother
Earth, well trodden and quite smooth, was tesselated
with an ever-moving panorama of fleas; here we spread
the wagon-cover, and upon some rough boxes, collected
with no small cost of energy and money, was placed
our still comfortable though long-used ambulance-
mattress. Chairs were so scarce that none could be
procured; fortunately, I had retained in all our
wanderings a little splint-bottomed rocking-chair, brought
from Arlington, and this was doubly appreciated as
the “woman in the case” was comfortably provided for
(when we left Mexico, for the last time, I gave that
chair to a friend, and twenty years after, in New
Orleans, sat in it again). The scarcity of furniture
arose from the fact that the natives, even when in
comfortable circumstances, slept on rawhides spread
upon the floor, and squatted about in uncomfortable
attitudes, oblivious of the luxury of chairs.</p>
          <p>In these quarters we remained two months. The
accommodating collector gave the room to us entirely
at night, but during the day it was his office. There
he had a table for his papers and a store-box to sit on,
and there he dispatched his business as “collector of
the customs for the Confederate States.” That high-
sounding title meant a great deal to us then, empty as
it is now. Here teamsters were paid for hauling
<pb id="flag89" n="89"/>
Government cotton to the Rio Grande, and here permits
were granted for various purposes. The collector made
me feel very important at first, but I was fearfully
burdened afterward by his appointing me custodian
of the specie. There was no bank, of course, nor any
other place of deposit for valuables in Piedras Negras,
as the natives to the manor born could carry on their
persons without effort everything they owned, clothes
and all.</p>
          <p>Mexican silver dollars arrived in stout coffee-sacks,
consigned to the Confederate officer, to pay cartage.
I opened and emptied my only trunk, and the money
was rattled in like stones turned from a wheelbarrow,
until the trunk was full to bursting; then I locked it,
sat on it during the day, and slept on it at night, as it
was dragged under the lower edge of our mattress at
bed-time. I was almost afraid to wink, the responsibility
of my charge so overwhelmed me. Rapidly those
clumsy dollars were paid out to big-booted, red-shirted
men, with pistols in their belts and fire in their eyes,
who tied them in coarse handkerchiefs and heavy
stockings, though mostly in bags made of pantaloon-legs.
In very many instances the men, not yet ready
to start on the home journey  -  though I was an
entire stranger  -  begged me to keep their bags until
called for.</p>
          <p>Then traders on their own business intent, Jews,
and that class of men of peace always found where
<pb id="flag90" n="90"/>
there is a chance of money-making, came out of the
Confederacy to Piedras Negras, with their precious
bags of hoarded gold, <hi rend="italics">en route</hi> for the interior of
Mexico, to purchase goods.</p>
          <p>These wary men quickly learned there was an
American woman in town who could be persuaded to
take care of their money till they were ready to start.
So to the office they came, with courteous