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        <title><emph rend="bold">“Marse Henry”</emph>
<emph rend="bold">AN AUTOBIOGRAPHY (vol. 2)</emph>
Electronic Edition.</title>
        <author>
          <emph>WATTERSON, HENRY, 1840-1921 </emph>
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    <front>
      <div1 type="frontispiece image">
        <p>
          <figure id="frontis" entity="watterfp2">
            <p>HENRY WATTERSON—FIFTY YEARS AGO<lb/>[Frontispiece Image]</p>
          </figure>
        </p>
      </div1>
      <div1 type="title page image">
        <p>
          <figure id="title" entity="wattertp2">
            <p>[Title Page Image]</p>
          </figure>
        </p>
      </div1>
      <titlePage>
        <docTitle>
          <titlePart type="main">“Marse Henry”</titlePart>
          <lb/>
          <titlePart type="main">
            <hi rend="italics">AN AUTOBIOGRAPHY</hi>
          </titlePart>
        </docTitle>
        <byline>By</byline>
        <docAuthor>HENRY WATTERSON</docAuthor>
        <docEdition>VOLUME II</docEdition>
        <docEdition>
          <hi rend="italics">Illustrated</hi>
        </docEdition>
        <docImprint><pubPlace>NEW YORK</pubPlace>
<publisher>GEORGE H. DORAN COMPANY</publisher></docImprint>
        <titlePart type="verso">COPYRIGHT, 1919,
<lb/>
BY GEORGE H. DORAN COMPANY</titlePart>
        <titlePart type="main">COPYRIGHT, 1919, BY THE CURTIS PUBLISHING COMPANY
<lb/>
PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA</titlePart>
      </titlePage>
      <pb id="wattersonv" n="v"/>
      <div1 type="contents">
        <head>CONTENTS</head>
        <list type="simple">
          <item>CHAPTER THE THIRTEENTH 
<lb/>
CHARLES EAMES AND CHARLES SUMNER - SCHURZ AND
LAMAR - I GO TO CONGRESS - A HEROIC 
KENTUCKIAN - STEPHEN FOSTER AND HIS SONGS - 
MUSIC AND THEODORE THOMAS . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="watterson15">15</ref></item>
          <item>CHAPTER THE FOURTEENTH
<lb/>
HENRY ADAMS AND THE ADAMS FAMILY - JOHN HAY 
AND FRANK MASON - THE THREE <hi rend="italics">MOUSQUETAIRES</hi>
OF CULTURE - PARIS - “THE FRENCHMAN” - THE 
SOUTH OF FRANCE . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="watterson33">33</ref></item>
          <item>CHAPTER THE FIFTEENTH 
<lb/>
STILL THE GAY CAPITAL OF FRANCE - ITS ENVIRONS
 - WALEWSKA AND DE MORNY - THACKERY IN  
PARIS - A <hi rend="italics">PENSION</hi> ADVENTURE . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="watterson54">54</ref></item>
          <item>CHAPTER THE SIXTEENTH
<lb/>
MONTE CARLO - THE EUROPEAN SHRINE OF SPORT 
AND FASHION - APOCRYPHAL GAMBLING STORIES  
- LEOPOLD, KING OF THE BELGIANS - AN ABLE 
AND PICTURESEQUE MAN OF BUSINESS . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="watterson73">73</ref></item>
          <item>CHAPTER THE SEVENTEENTH
<lb/>
A PARISIAN <hi rend="italics">PENSION</hi> - THE WIDOW OF WALEWSKA - 
NAPOLEON'S DAUGHTER-IN-LAW - THE CHANGELESS 
- A MORAL AND ORDERLY CITY . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="watterson90">90</ref></item>
          <pb id="wattersonvi" n="vi"/>
          <item>CHAPTER THE EIGHTEENTH
<lb/>
THE GROVER CLEVELAND PERIOD - PRESIDENT ARTHUR 
AND MR. BLAINE - JOHN CHAMBERLIN - THE 
DECREES OF DESTINY . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="watterson102">102</ref></item>
          <item>CHAPTER THE NINETEENTH
<lb/>
MR. CLEVELAND IN THE WHITE HOUSE - MR. BAYARD 
IN THE DEPARTMENT OF STATE - QUEER APPOINTMENTS 
TO OFFICE - THE ONE-PARTY POWER - THE 
END OF NORTH AND SOUTH SECTIONALISM . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="watterson114">114</ref></item>
          <item>CHAPTER THE TWENTIETH
<lb/>
THE REAL GROVER CLEVELAND - TWO CLEVELANDS 
BEFORE AND AFTER MARRIAGE - A CORRESPONDENCE 
AND A BREAK OF PERSONAL RELATIONS . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="watterson132">132</ref></item>
          <item>CHAPTER THE TWENTY-FIRST
<lb/>
STEPHEN FOSTER, THE SONG WRITER - A FRIEND 
COMES TO THE RESCUE OF HIS ORIGINALITY - 
“MY OLD KENTUCKY HOME” AND THE “OLD 
FOLKS AT HOME” - GENERAL SHERMAN AND 
“MARCHING THROUGH GEORGIA” . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="watterson146">146</ref></item>
          <item>CHAPTER THE TWENTY-SECOND
<lb/>
THEODORE ROOSEVELT - HIS PROBLEMATIC CHARACTER 
- HE OFFERS ME AN APPOINTMENT - HIS  <hi rend="italics"><foreign lang="fr">BONHOMIE</foreign></hi> 
AND CHIVALRY - PROUD OF HIS REBEL KIN . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="watterson158">158</ref></item>
          <item>CHAPTER THE TWENTY-THIRD 
<lb/>
THE ACTOR AND THE JOURNALIST - THE NEWSPAPER 
AND THE STATE - JOSEPH JEFFERSON - HIS PERSONAL 
AND ARTISTIC CAREER - MODEST CHARACTER 
AND RELIGIOUS BELIEF . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="watterson170">170</ref></item>
          <pb id="wattersonvii" n="vii"/>
          <item>CHAPTER THE TWENTY-FOURTH
<lb/>
THE WRITING OF MEMOIRS - SOME CHARACTERISTICS 
OF CARL SCHURZ - SAM BOWLES - HORACE WHITE 
AND THE MUGWUMPS . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="watterson187">187</ref></item>
          <item>CHAPTER THE TWENTY-FIFTH 
<lb/>
EVERY TRADE HAS ITS TRICKS - I PLAY ONE ON 
WILLIAM McKINLEY - FAR AWAY PARTY POLITICS 
AND POLITICAL ISSUES . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="watterson198">198</ref></item>
          <item>CHAPTER THE TWENTY-SIXTH
<lb/>
A LIBEL ON MR. CLEVELAND - HIS FONDNESS FOR 
CARDS - SOME POKER STORIES - THE “SENATE  
GAME” - TOM OCHILTREE, SENATOR ALLISON AND 
GENERAL SCHENCK . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="watterson209">209</ref></item>
          <item>CHAPTER THE TWENTY-SEVENTH
<lb/>
THE PROFESSION OF JOURNALISM - NEWSPAPERS AND 
EDITORS IN AMERICA - BENNETT, GREELEY AND 
RAYMOND - FORNEY AND DANA - THE EDUCATION 
OF A JOURNALIST . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="watterson224">224</ref></item>
          <item>CHAPTER THE TWENTY-EIGHTH
<lb/>
BULLIES AND BRAGGARTS - SOME KENTUCKY ILLUSTRATIONS - 
THE OLD GALT HOUSE - THE THROCKMORTONS - 
A FAMOUS SURGEON - “OLD HELL'S 
DELIGHT” . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="watterson240">240</ref></item>
          <item>CHAPTER THE TWENTY-NINTH 
<lb/>
ABOUT POLITICAL CONVENTIONS, STATE AND NATIONAL 
- “OLD BEN BUTLER” - HIS APPEARANCE AS A 
TROUBLE-MAKER IN THE DEMOCRATIC NATIONAL 
CONVENTION OF 1892 - TARIFA AND THE TARIFF - 
SPAIN AS A FRIGHTFUL EXAMPLE . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="watterson249">249</ref></item>
          <pb id="wattersonviii" n="viii"/>
          <item>CHAPTER THE THIRTIETH
<lb/>
THE MAKERS OF THE REPUBLIC - LINCOLN, JEFFERSON, 
CLAY AND WEBSTER - THE PROPOSED LEAGUE OF 
NATIONS - THE WILSONIAN INCERTITUDE - THE 
“NEW FREEDOM” . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="watterson263">263</ref></item>
          <item>CHAPTER THE THIRTY-FIRST
<lb/>
THE AGE OF MIRACLES - A STORY OF FRANKLIN 
PIERCE - SIMON SUGGS AND BILLY SUNDAY - 
JEFFERSON DAVIS AND AARON BURR  - CERTAIN 
CONSTITUTIONAL SHORTCOMINGS . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="watterson280">280</ref></item>
          <item>CHAPTER THE THIRTY-SECOND
<lb/>
A WAR EPISODE - I MEET MY FATE - I MARRY AND 
MAKE A HOME - THE UPS AND DOWNS OF LIFE 
LEAD TO A HAPPY OLD AGE . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="watterson296">296</ref></item>
        </list>
      </div1>
      <pb id="wattersonix" n="ix"/>
      <div1 type="illustrations">
        <head>ILLUSTRATIONS</head>
        <list type="simple">
          <item>HENRY WATTERSON - FIFTY YEARS AGO . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="frontis"><hi rend="italics">Frontispiece</hi></ref></item>
          <item>HENRY WOODFIRE GRADY - ONE OF MR. WATTERSON'S 
“BOYS” . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="figure2">48</ref></item>
          <item>MR. WATTERSON'S LIBRARY AT “MANSFIELD” . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="figure3">120</ref></item>
          <item>A CORNER OF “MANSFIELD” - HOME OF MR. 
WATTERSON . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="figure4">136</ref></item>
          <item>HENRY WATTERSON (PHOTOGRAPH TAKEN IN FLORIDA) . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="figure5">160</ref></item>
          <item>HENRY WATTERSON. FROM A PAINTING BY LOUIS 
MARK IN THE MANHATTAN CLUB, NEW YORK . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="figure6">232</ref></item>
        </list>
      </div1>
    </front>
    <pb id="watterson15" n="15"/>
    <body>
      <div0 type="text">
        <head>“MARSE HENRY”</head>
        <div1 type="chapter">
          <head>CHAPTER THE THIRTEENTH</head>
          <head>CHARLES EAMES AND CHARLES SUMNER - SCHURZ<lb/>
AND LAMAR - I GO TO CONGRESS - A HEROIC
<lb/>KENTUCKIAN - STEPHEN FOSTER AND HIS SONGS
<lb/>- MUSIC AND THEODORE THOMAS</head>
          <div2 type="subsection">
            <head>I</head>
            <p><emph rend="bold">SWIFT'S</emph> definition of  “conversation” did not 
preside over or direct the daily intercourse 
between Charles Sumner, Charles Eames and 
Robert J. Walker in the old days in the National 
Capital. They did not converse. They discoursed.  
They talked sententiously in portentous essays and 
learned dissertations. I used to think it great, 
though I nursed no little dislike of Sumner.</p>
            <p>Charles Eames was at the outset of his career a 
ne'er-do-well New Englander - a Yankee 
Jack-of-all-trades - kept at the front by an exceedingly 
<pb id="watterson16" n="16"/>
clever wife. Through the favor she enjoyed at 
court he received from Pierce and Buchanan 
unimportant diplomatic appointments. During their 
sojourns in Washington their home was a kind of 
political and literary headquarters. Mrs. Eames 
had established a salon - the first attempt of the 
kind made there; and it was altogether a success. 
Her Sundays evenings were notable, indeed. 
Whoever was worth seeing, if in town, might usually be 
found there. Charles Sumner led the procession. 
He was a most imposing person. Both handsome 
and distinguished in appearance, he possessed in an 
eminent degree the Harvard pragmatism - or, shall 
I say, affectation? - and seemed never happy 
except on exhibition. He had made a profitable 
political and personal issue of the Preston Brooks 
attack. Brooks was an exceeding light weight, but 
he did for Sumner more than Sumner could ever 
have done for himself.</p>
            <p>In the Charles Eames days Sumner was exceedingly 
disagreeable to me. Many people, indeed, 
thought him so. Many years later, in the Greeley 
campaign of 1872, Schurz brought us together -  
they had become as very brothers in the Senate - 
<pb id="watterson17" n="17"/>
and I found him the reverse of my boyish ill 
conceptions.</p>
            <p>He was a great old man. He was a delightful 
old man, every inch a statesman, much of a scholar, 
and something of a hero. I grew in time to be 
actually fond of him, passed with him entire afternoons 
and evenings in his library, mourned sincerely 
when he died, and went with Schurz to Boston, 
on the occasion when that great German-American 
delivered the memorial address in honor of the dead 
Abolitionist.</p>
            <p>Of all the public men of that period Carl Schurz 
most captivated me. When we first came into 
personal relations, at the Liberal Convention, which 
assembled at Cincinnati and nominated Greeley 
and Brown as a presidential ticket, he was just 
turned forty-three; I, two and thirty. The closest 
intimacy followed. Our tastes were much alike. 
Both of us had been educated in music. He played 
the piano with intelligence and feeling - especially 
Schumann, Brahms and Mendelssohn, neither of 
us ever having quite reached the “high jinks” of 
Wagner.</p>
            <p>To me his oratory was wonderful. He spoke to  
an audience of five or ten thousand as he would 
<pb id="watterson18" n="18"/>
have talked to a party of three or six. His style 
was simple, natural, unstrained; the lucid statement 
and cogent argument now and again irradiated 
by a salient passage of satire or a burst of not 
too eloquent rhetoric.</p>
            <p>He was quite knocked out by the nomination of 
Horace Greeley. For a long time he could not 
reconcile himself to support the ticket. Horace 
White and I addressed ourselves to the task of 
“fetching him into camp” - there being in point of 
fact nowhere else for him to go - though we had to 
get up what was called The Fifth Avenue 
Conference to make a bridge.</p>
            <p>Truth to say, Schurz never wholly adjusted himself 
to political conditions in the United States. He 
once said to me in one of the querulous moods that 
sometimes overcame him: “If I should live a hundred 
years my enemies would still call me a - 
Dutchman!”</p>
            <p>It was Schurz, as I have said, who brought
Lamar and me together. The Mississippian had
been a Secession Member of Congress when I was
a Unionist scribe in the reporters' gallery. I was
a furious partisan in those days and disliked the
Secessionists intensely. Of them, Lamar was most
		
<pb id="watterson19" n="19"/>
aggressive. I later learned that he was very many-sided 
and accomplished, the most interesting and 
lovable of men. He and Schurz “froze together,” 
as, brought together by Schurz, he and I “froze 
together.” On one side he was a sentimentalist and 
on the other a philosopher, but on all sides a fighter.</p>
            <p>They called him a dreamer. He sprang from a 
race of chevaliers and scholars. Oddly enough, 
albeit in his moods a recluse, he was a man of the 
world; a favorite in society; very much at home in 
European courts, especially in that of England; 
the friend of Thackeray, at whose house, when in 
London, he made his abode. Lady Ritchie - Anne 
Thackeray - told me many amusing stories of his 
whimsies. He was a man among brainy men and 
a lion among clever women.</p>
            <p>We had already come to be good friends and 
constant comrades when the whirligig of time threw 
us together for a little while in the lower house of 
Congress. One day he beckoned me over to his 
seat. He was leaning backward with his hands 
crossed behind his head.</p>
            <p>As I stood in front of him he said: “On the
eighth of February, 1858, Mrs. Gwin, of 
California, gave a fancy dress ball. Mr. Lamar, of
		
<pb id="watterson20" n="20"/>
Mississippi, a member of Congress, was there. 
Also a glorious young woman - a vision of beauty 
and grace - with whom the handsome and distinguished 
young statesman danced - danced once, 
twice, thrice, taking her likewise down to supper. 
He went to bed, turned his face to the wall and 
dreamed of her. That was twenty years ago. 
To-day this same Mr. Lamar, after an obscure 
interregnum, was with Mrs. Lamar looking over 
Washington for an apartment. In quest of cheap 
lodging they came to a mean house in a mean quarter, 
where a poor, wizened, ill-clad woman showed them 
through the meanly furnished rooms. Of course 
they would not suffice.</p>
            <p>“As they were coming away the great Mr. Lamar 
said to the poor landlady, ‘Madam, have you lived 
long in Washington?’ She said all her life. 
‘Madam,’ he continued, ‘were you at a fancy dress 
ball given by Mrs. Senator Gwin of California, the
eighth of February, 1858?’ She said she was. ‘Do 
you remember,’ the statesman, soldier and orator 
continued, ‘a young and handsome Mississippian, a 
member of Congress, by the name of Lamar?’ She 
said she didn't.”</p>
            <p>I rather think that Lamar was the biggest 
<pb id="watterson21" n="21"/>
brained of all the men I have met in Washington. 
He possessed the courage of his convictions. A 
doctrinaire, there was nothing of the typical 
doctrinaire, or theorist, about him. He really believed 
that cotton was king and would compel England to 
espouse the cause of the South.</p>
            <p>Despite his wealth of experience and travel he 
was not overmuch of a raconteur, but he once told 
me a good story about his friend Thackeray. The 
two were driving to a banquet of the Literary 
Fund, where Dickens was to preside. “Lamar,” 
said Thackeray, “they say I can't speak. But if 
I want to I can speak. I can speak every bit as 
good as Dickens, and I am going to show you 
to-night that I can speak almost as good as you.” 
When the moment arrived Thackeray said never a 
word. Returning in the cab, both silent, Thackeray 
suddenly broke forth. “Lamar,” he exclaimed, 
“don't you think you have heard the greatest speech 
to-night that was never delivered?”</p>
          </div2>
          <div2 type="subsection">
            <head>II</head>
            <p>Holding office, especially going to Congress, had 
never entered any wish or scheme of mine. Office 
<pb id="watterson22" n="22"/>
seemed to me ever a badge of bondage. I knew 
too much of the national capital to be allured by 
its evanescent and lightsome honors. When the 
opportunity sought me out none of its illusions 
appealed to me. But after a long uphill fight for 
personal and political recognition in Kentucky an 
election put a kind of seal upon the victory I had won 
and enabled me in a way to triumph over my 
enemies. I knew that if I accepted the nomination 
offered me I would get a big popular vote - as I 
did - and so, one full term, and half a term, 
incident to the death of the sitting member for the 
Louisville district being open to me, I took the short 
term, refusing the long term.</p>
            <p>Though it was midsummer and Congress was 
about to adjourn I went to Washington and was 
sworn in. A friend of mine, Col. Wake Holman, 
had made a bet with one of our pals I would be 
under arrest before I had been twenty-four hours 
in town, and won it. It happened in this wise: The 
night of the day when I took my seat there was an 
all-night session. I knew too well what that meant, 
and, just from a long tiresome journey, I went to 
bed and slept soundly till sunrise. Just as I was 
up and dressing for a stroll about the old, familiar,
<pb id="watterson23" n="23"/>
dearly loved quarter of the town there came an 
imperative rap upon the door and a voice said: “Get 
up, colonel, quick! This is a sergeant at arms. 
There has been a call of the House and I am after 
you. Everybody is drunk, more or less, and they 
are noisy to have some fun with you.”</p>
            <p>It was even as he said. Everybody, more or less, 
was drunk - especially the provisional speaker 
whom Mr. Randall had placed in the chair - and 
when we arrived and I was led a prisoner down the 
center aisle pandemonium broke loose.</p>
            <p>They had all sorts of fun with me, such as it was. 
It was moved that I be fined the full amount of my 
mileage. Then a resolution was offered suspending 
my membership and sending me under guard 
to the old Capitol prison. Finally two or three of 
my friends rescued me and business was allowed to 
proceed. It was the last day of a very long session 
and those who were not drunk were worn out.</p>
            <p>When I returned home there was a celebration 
in honor of the bet Wake Holman had won at my 
expense. Wake was the most attractive and lovable 
of men, by nature a hero, by profession a “filibuster” 
and soldier of fortune. At two and twenty he 
was a private in Col. Humphrey Marshall's Regiment
<pb id="watterson24" n="24"/>
of Kentucky Riflemen, which reached the 
scene of hostilities upon the Rio Grande in the 
midsummer of 1846. He had enlisted from Owen 
county - “Sweet Owen,” as it used to be called - 
and came of good stock, his father, Col. Harry Holman, 
in the days of aboriginal fighting and journalism, 
a frontier celebrity. Wake's company, out on 
a scout, was picked off by the Mexicans, and the 
distinction between United States soldiers and Texan 
rebels not being yet clearly established, a drumhead 
court-martial ordered “the decimation.”</p>
            <p>This was a decree that one of every ten of the 
Yankee captives should be shot. There being a 
hundred of Marshall's men, one hundred beans -  
ninety white and ten black - were put in a hat. 
Then the company was mustered as on dress 
parade. Whoso drew a white bean was to be held 
prisoner of war; whoso drew a black bean was to 
die.</p>
            <p>In the early part of the drawing Wake drew a 
white bean. Toward the close the turn of a neighbor 
and comrade from Owen county who had left 
a wife and baby at home was called. He and Wake 
were standing together, Holman brushed him 
aside, walked out in his place and drew his bean. It
<pb id="watterson25" n="25"/>
turned out to be a white one. Twice within the 
half hour death had looked him in the eye and 
found no blinking there.</p>
            <p>I have seen quite a deal of hardihood, endurance, 
suffering, in both women and men; splendid courage 
on the field of action; perfect self-possession in 
the face of danger; but I rather think that Wake 
Holman's exploit that day - next to actually dying 
for a friend, what can be nobler than being willing 
to die for him? - is the bravest thing I know or have 
ever been told of mortal man.</p>
            <p>Wake Holman went to Cuba in the Lopez 
Rebellion of 1851, and fought under Pickett at the 
Battle of Cardenas. In 1855-56 he was in 
Nicaragua, with Walker. He commanded a Kentucky 
regiment of cavalry on the Union side in our War 
of Sections. After the war he lived the life of a 
hunter and fisher at his home in Kentucky; a 
cheery, unambitious, big-brained and big-hearted 
cherub, whom it would not do to “projeck” with, 
albeit with entire safety you could pick his pocket; 
the soul of simplicity and amiability.</p>
            <p>To have known him was an education in primal 
manhood. To sit at his hospitable board, with him 
at the head of the table, was an inspiration in the 
<pb id="watterson26" n="26"/>
genius of life and the art of living. One of his 
familiars started the joke that when Wake drew 
the second white bean “he got a peep.” He took it 
kindly; though in my intimacy with him, extending 
over thirty years, I never heard him refer to any 
of his adventures as a soldier.</p>
            <p>It was not possible that such a man should provide 
for his old age. He had little forecast. He 
knew not the value of money. He had humor, 
affection and courage. I held him in real love and 
honor. When the Mexican War Pension Act was 
passed by Congress I took his papers to General 
Black, the Commissioner of Pensions, and related 
this story.</p>
            <p>“I have promised Gen. Cerro Gordo Williams,” 
said General Black, referring to the then senior 
United States Senator from Kentucky, “that his 
name shall go first on the roll of these Mexican 
pensioners. But” - and the General looked beamingly 
in my face, a bit tearful, and says he: “Wake 
Holman's name shall come right after.” And there 
it is.</p>
          </div2>
          <div2 type="subsection">
            <head>III</head>
            <p>I was very carefully and for those times not
ignorantly taught in music. Schell, his name was,
		
<pb id="watterson27" n="27"/>
and they called him “Professor.” He lived over 
in Georgetown, where he had organized a little 
group of Prussian refugees into a German club, 
and from my tenth to my fifteenth year - at first 
regularly, and then in a desultory way as I came 
back to Washington City from my school in 
Philadelphia, be hammered Bach and Handel and 
Mozart - nothing so modern as Mendelssohn - into my 
not unwilling nor unreceptive mind, for my bent 
was in the beginning to compose dramas, and in 
the end operas.</p>
            <p>Adelina Patti was among my child companions. 
Once in the national capital, when I was 12 years 
old and Adelina 9, we played together at a charity 
concert. She had sung “The Last Rose of Summer,” 
and I had played her brother-in-law's variation 
upon “Home, Sweet Home.” The audience 
was enthusiastic. We were called out again and 
again. Then we came on the stage together, and 
the applause increasing I sat down at the keyboard 
and played an accompaniment with my own 
interpolations upon “Old Folks At Home,” which I had 
taught Adelina, and she sang the words. Then 
they fairly took the roof off.</p>
            <p>Once during a sojourn in Paris I was thrown 
<pb id="watterson28" n="28"/>
with Christine Nilsson. She was in the heyday of 
her success at the Theater Lyrique under the 
patronage of Madame Miolan-Carvalho. One day 
I said to her: “The time may come when you will 
be giving concerts.” She was indignant. “Nevertheless,” 
I continued, “let me teach you a sure encore.” 
I played her Stephen Foster's immortal 
ditty. She was delighted. The sequel was that it 
served her even a better turn than it had served 
Adelina Patti.</p>
            <p>I played and transposed for the piano most of 
the melodies of Foster as they were published, they 
being first produced in public by Christy's 
Minstrels.</p>
          </div2>
          <div2 type="subsection">
            <head>IV</head>
            <p>Stephen Foster was the ne'er-do-well of a good 
Pennsylvania family. A sister of his had married 
a brother of James Buchanan. There were two 
daughters of this marriage, nieces of the President, 
and when they were visiting the White House we 
had - shall I dare write it? - high jinks with our 
nigger-minstrel concerts on the sly.</p>
            <p>Will S. Hays, the rival of Foster as a song writer 
and one of my reporters on the Courier-Journal, 
<pb id="watterson29" n="29"/>
told me this story: “Foster,” said he, “was a good 
deal of what you might call a barroom loafer. He 
possessed a sweet tenor voice before it was spoiled 
by drink, and was fond of music, though technically 
he knew nothing about it. He had a German friend 
who when he died left him a musical scrapbook, of 
all sorts of odds and ends of original text. There 
is where Foster got his melodies. When the scrapbook 
gave out he gave out.”</p>
            <p>I took it as merely the spleen of a rival composer. 
But many years after in Vienna I heard a concert 
given over exclusively to the performance of 
certain posthumous manuscripts of Schubert. Among 
the rest were selections from an unfinished opera -  
“Rosemonde,” I think it was called - in which the 
whole rhythm and movements and parts of the 
score of Old Folks at Home were the feature.</p>
            <p>It was something to have grown up contemporary, 
as it were, with these songs. Many of them 
were written in the old Rowan homestead, just 
outside of Bardstown, Ky., where Louis Philippe lived 
and taught, and for a season Talleyrand made his 
abode. The Rowans were notable people. John 
Rowan, the elder, head of the house, was a famous 
lawyer, who divided oratorical honors with Henry 
<pb id="watterson30" n="30"/>
Clay, and like Clay, was a Senator in Congress; 
his son, “young John,” as he was called, Stephen 
Foster's pal, went as minister to Naples, and fought 
duels, and was as Bob Acres wanted to be, “a devil 
of a fellow.” He once told me he had been intimate 
with Thackeray when they were wild young men in 
Paris, and that they had both of them known the 
woman whom Thackeray had taken for the original 
of Becky Sharp.</p>
            <p>The Foster songs quite captivated my boyhood. 
I could sing a little, as well as play, and learned 
each of them - especially Old Folks at Home and 
My Old Kentucky Home - as they appeared. Their 
contemporary vogue was tremendous. Nothing has 
since rivalled the popular impression they made, 
except perhaps the Arthur Sullivan melodies.</p>
            <p>Among my ambitions to be a great historian, 
dramatist, soldier and writer of romance I desired 
also to be a great musician, especially a great 
pianist. The bone-felon did the business for this 
later. But all my life I have been able to thumb 
the keyboard at least for the children to dance, and 
it has been a recourse and solace sometimes during 
intervals of embittered journalism and unprosperous 
statesmanship.</p>
          </div2>
          <pb id="watterson31" n="31"/>
          <div2 type="subsection">
            <head>V</head>
            <p>Theodore Thomas and I used to play duos together. 
He was a master of the violin before he 
took to orchestration. We remained the best of 
friends to the end of his days.</p>
            <p>On the slightest provocation, or none, we passed 
entire nights together. Once after a concert he 
suddenly exclaimed: “Don't you think Wagner was 
a - fraud?”</p>
            <p>A little surprised even by one of his outbreaks, 
I said: “Wagner may have written some trick music 
but I hardly think that he was a fraud.”</p>
            <p>He reflected a moment. “Well,” he continued, 
“it may not lie in my mouth to say it - and perhaps 
I ought not to say it - I know I am most responsible 
for the Wagner craze - but I consider him a 
- fraud.”</p>
            <p>He had just come from a long “classic entertainment,” 
was worn out with travel and worry, and 
meant nothing of the sort.</p>
            <p>After a very tiresome concert when he was railing 
at the hard lines of a peripatetic musician I said: 
“Come with me and I will give you a soothing quail 
<pb id="watterson32" n="32"/>
and as dry a glass of champagne as you ever had in 
your life.”</p>
            <p>The wine was poured out and he took a sip.</p>
            <p>“I don't call that dry wine,” he crossly said, and 
took another sip. “My God,” without a pause he 
continued, “isn't that great?”</p>
            <p>Of course he was impulsive, even impetuous. 
Beneath his seeming cold exterior and admirable 
self-control - the discipline of the master artist - lay 
the moods and tenses of the musical temperament. 
He knew little or nothing outside of music and did 
not care to learn. I tried to interest him in politics. 
It was of no use. First he laughed my suggestions 
to scorn and then swore like a trooper. German he 
was, through and through. It was well that he 
passed away before the world war. Pat Gilmore 
- “Patrick Sarsfield,” we always called him - was a 
born politician, and if he had not been a musician 
he would have been a statesman. I kept the peace 
between him and Theodore Thomas by an ingenious 
system of telling all kinds of kind things each 
had said of the other, my “repetitions” being pure 
inventions of my own.</p>
          </div2>
        </div1>
        <pb id="watterson33" n="33"/>
        <div1 type="chapter">
          <head>CHAPTER THE FOURTEENTH</head>
          <head>HENRY ADAMS AND THE ADAMS FAMILY - JOHN HAY 
<lb/>AND FRANK MASON - THE THREE MOUSQUTAIRES 
<lb/>OF CULTURE - PARIS - “THE FRENCHMAN”
<lb/>- THE SOUTH OF FRANCE</head>
          <div2 type="subsection">
            <head>I</head>
            <p><emph rend="bold">I HAVE</emph> been of late reading The Education of 
Henry Adams, and it recalls many persons 
and incidents belonging to the period about which 
I am now writing. I knew Henry Adams well; 
first in London, then in Boston and finally throughout 
his prolonged residence in Washington City. 
He was an Adams; very definitely an Adams, but, 
though his ghost may revisit the glimpses of the 
moon and chide me for saying so, with an English 
“cut to his jib.”</p>
            <p>No three brothers could be more unlike than 
Charles Francis, John Quincy and Henry Adams. 
Brooks Adams I did not know. They represented 
<pb id="watterson34" n="34"/>
the fourth generation of the brainiest pedigree - 
that is in continuous line - known to our family 
history. Henry thought he was a philosopher and 
tried to be one. He thought he was a man of the 
world and wanted to be one. He was, in spite of 
himself, a provincial.</p>
            <p>Provincialism is not necessarily rustic, even 
suburban. There is no provincial quite so provincial 
as he who has passed his life in great cities. The 
Parisian boulevardier taken away from the asphalt, 
the cockney a little off Clapham Common and the 
Strand, is lost. Henry Adams knew his London 
and his Paris, his Boston and his Quiney - we must 
not forget Quincy - well. But he had been born, 
and had grown up, between the lids of history, and 
for all his learning and travel he never got very 
far outside them.</p>
            <p>In manner and manners, tone and cast of thought 
he was English - delightfully English - though he 
cultivated the cosmopolite. His house in the 
national capital, facing the Executive Mansion across 
Lafayette Square - especially during the life of his 
wife, an adorable woman, who made up in sweetness 
and tact for some of the qualities lacking in 
her husband - was an intellectual and high-bred
<pb id="watterson35" n="35"/>
center, a rendezvous for the best ton and the most 
accepted people. The Adamses may be said to have 
succeeded the Eameses as leaders in semi-social, 
semi-literary and semi-political society.</p>
            <p>There was a trio - I used to call them the Three
Musketeers of Culture - John Hay, Henry Cabot 
Lodge and Henry Adams. They made an interesting 
and inseparable trinity - Caleb Cushing, Robert 
J. Walker and Charles Sumner not more so - and 
it was worth while to let them have the floor and to 
hear them talk; Lodge, cool and wary as a politician 
should be; Hay, helterskelter, the real man of 
the world crossed on a Western stock; and Adams, 
something of a <foreign lang="fr">litératteur</foreign>, a statesman and a cynic.</p>
            <p>John Randolph Tucker, who when he was in Congress 
often met Henry at dinners and the like, said 
to him on the appearance of the early volumes of 
his History of the United States: “I am not 
disappointed, for how could an Adams be expected 
to do justice to a Randolph?”</p>
            <p>While he was writing this history Adams said to 
me: “There is an old villain - next to Andrew 
Jackson the greatest villain of his time - a 
Kentuckian - don't say he was a kinsman of yours! - 
whose papers, if he left any, I want to see.”</p>
            <pb id="watterson36" n="36"/>
            <p>“To whom are you referring?” I asked with mock 
dignity.</p>
            <p>“To John Adair,” he answered.</p>
            <p>“Well,” said I, “John Adair married my grandmother's 
sister and I can put you in the way of 
getting whatever you require.”</p>
            <p>I have spoken of John Hay as Master of the 
Revels in the old Sutherland-Delmonico days. 
Even earlier than that - in London and Paris - an 
intimacy had been established between us. He 
married in Cleveland, Ohio, and many years passed 
before I came up with him again. One day in Whitelaw 
Reid's den in the Tribune Building he reappeared, 
strangely changed - no longer the rosy-cheeked, 
buoyant boy - an overserious, prematurely 
old man. I was shocked, and when he had gone 
Reid, observing this, said: “Oh, Hay will come 
round all right. He is just now in one of his moods. 
I picked him up in Piccadilly the other day and by 
sheer force brought him over.”</p>
            <p>When we recall the story of Hay's life - one 
weird tragedy after another, from the murder of 
Lincoln to the murder of McKinley, including the 
tragic end of two members of his immediate family 
<pb id="watterson37" n="37"/>
- there rises in spite of the grandeur that pursued 
him a single exclamation: “The pity of it!”</p>
            <p>This is accentuated by Henry Adams' Education. 
Yet the silent courage with which Hay met 
disaster after disaster must increase both the 
sympathy and the respect of those who peruse the 
melancholy pages of that vivid narrative. Toward 
the end, meeting him on a public occasion, I said: 
“You work too hard - you are not looking well.”</p>
            <p>“I am dying,” said he.</p>
            <p>“Yes,” I replied in the way of banter, “you are 
dying of fame and fortune.”</p>
            <p>But I went no further. He was in no mood for 
the old verbal horseplay.</p>
            <p>He looked wan and wizened. Yet there were 
still several years before him. When he came from 
Mannheim to Paris it was clear that the end was 
nigh. I did not see him - he was too ill to see any 
one - but Frank Mason kept me advised from day 
to day, and when, a month or two later, having 
reached home, the news came to us that he was dead 
we were nowise surprised, and almost consoled by 
the thought that rest had come at last.</p>
            <p>Frank Mason and his wife - “the Masons,” they 
were commonly called, for Mrs. Mason made a 
<pb id="watterson38" n="38"/>
wondrous second to her husband - were from Cleveland, 
Ohio, she a daughter of Judge Birchard -  
Jennie Birchard - he a rising young journalist 
caught in the late seventies by the glitter of a 
foreign appointment. They ran the gamut of the 
consular service, beginning with Basel and Marseilles 
and ending with Frankfurt, Berlin and Paris. 
Wherever they were their house was a very home 
- a kind of Yankee shrine - of visiting Americans 
and militant Americanism.</p>
            <p>Years before he was made consul general - in 
point of fact when he was plain consul at Marseilles 
- he ran over to Paris for a lark. One day he said 
to me, “A rich old hayseed uncle of mine has come 
to town. He has money to burn and he wants to 
meet you. I have arranged for us to dine with him 
at the Anglaise to-night and we are to order the 
dinner - <foreign lang="fr">carte blanche</foreign>.” The rich old uncle to whom 
I was presented did not have the appearance of a 
hayseed. On the contrary he was a most 
distinguished-looking old gentleman. The dinner we 
ordered was “stunning” - especially the wines. 
When the bill was presented our host scanned it 
carefully, scrutinizing each item and making his 
own addition, altogether “like a thoroughbred.” 
<pb id="watterson39" n="39"/>
Frank and I watched him not without a bit of 
anxiety mixed with contrition. When he had paid 
the score he said with a smile: “That was rather a 
steep bill, but we have had rather a good dinner, 
and now, if you boys know of as good a dance hall 
we'll go there and I'll buy the outfit.”</p>
          </div2>
          <div2 type="subsection">
            <head>II</head>
            <p>First and last I have lived much in the erstwhile 
gay capital of France. It was gayest when the 
Duke de Morny flourished as King of the Bourse. 
He was reputed the Emperor's natural half-brother. 
The breakdown of the Mexican adventure, 
which was mostly his, contributed not a little 
to the final Napoleonic fall. He died of dissipation 
and disappointment, and under the pseudonym of 
the Duke de Morra, Daudet celebrated him in 
“The Nabob.”</p>
            <p>De Morny did not live to see the tumble of the 
house of cards he had built. Next after I saw Paris 
it was a pitiful wreck indeed; the Hotel de Ville and 
the Tuileries in flames; the Column gone from the 
Place Vendôme; but later the rise of the Third 
Republic saw the revival of the unquenchable spirit 
of the irrepressible French.</p>
            <pb id="watterson40" n="40"/>
            <p>Nevertheless I should scarcely be taken for a 
Parisian. Once, when wandering aimlessly, as one 
so often does through the Paris streets, one of the 
touts hanging round the Café de la Paix to catch 
the unwary stranger being a little more importunate 
than usual, I ordered him to go about his business.</p>
            <p>“This is my business,” he impudently answered.</p>
            <p>“Get away, I tell you!” I thundered, “I am a 
Parisian myself!”</p>
            <p>He drew a little out of reach of the umbrella I 
held in my hand, and with a drawl of supreme and 
very American contempt, exclaimed, “Well, you 
don't look it,” and scampered off.</p>
            <p>Paris, however, is not all of France. Sometimes 
I have thought not the best part of it. There is the 
south of France, with Avignon, the heart of Provence, 
seat of the French papacy six hundred years 
ago, the metropolis of Christendom before the Midi 
was a region - Paris yet a village, and Rome struggling 
out of the débris of the ages - with Arles and 
Nîmes, and, above all, Tarascon, the home of the 
immortal Tartarin, for next-door neighbors. They 
are all hard by Marseilles. But Avignon ever most
<pb id="watterson41" n="41"/>
caught my fancy, for there the nights seem peopled 
with the ghosts of warriors and cardinals, and there 
on festal mornings the spirits of Petrarch and his 
Laura walk abroad, the ramparts, which bade 
defiance to Goth and Vandal and Saracen hordes, 
now giving shelter to bats and owls, but the 
atmosphere laden with legend</p>
            <lb/>
            <p>
              <hi rend="italics">“. . . tasting of Flora and the country green,
Dance and Provençal song and sun-burnt mirth.”</hi>
            </p>
            <lb/>
            <p>Something too much of this! Let me not yield 
to the spell of the picturesque. To recur to matters 
of fact and get down to prose and the times we 
live in let us halt a moment on this southerly 
journey and have a look in upon Lyons, the 
industrial capital of France, which is directly on the 
way.</p>
            <p>The idiosyncrasy of Lyons is silk. There are two 
schools of introduction in the art of silk weaving, 
one of them free to any lad in the city, the other 
requiring a trifle of matriculation. The first of these 
witnesses the whole process of fabrication from the 
reeling of threads to the finishing of dress goods,
<pb id="watterson42" n="42"/>
and the loom painting of pictures. It is most 
interesting of course, the painstaking its most obvious 
feature, the individual weaver living with his 
family upon a wage representing the cost of the 
barest necessities of life. Again, and ever and ever 
again, the inequalities of fortune! Where will it 
end?</p>
            <p>The world has tried revolution and it has tried 
anarchy. Always the survival of the strong, 
nicknamed by Spencer and his ilk the “fittest.” Ten 
thousand heads were chopped off during the Terror 
in France to make room for whom? Not for the 
many, but the few; though it must be allowed that 
in some ways the conditions were improved.</p>
            <p>Yet here after a hundred years, here in Lyons, 
faithful, intelligent men struggle for sixty, for 
forty cents a day, with never a hope beyond! What 
is to be done about it? Suppose the wealth of the 
universe were divided per capita, how long would 
it remain out of the clutches of the Napoleons of 
finance, only a percentage of whom find ultimately 
their Waterloo, little to the profit of the poor who 
spin and delve, who fight and die, in the Grand 
Army of the Wretched!</p>
          </div2>
          <pb id="watterson43" n="43"/>
          <div2 type="subsection">
            <head>III</head>
            <p>We read a deal that is amusing about the 
southerly Frenchman. He is indeed <hi rend="italics"><foreign lang="fr">sui generis</foreign></hi>. 
Some five and twenty years ago there appeared in 
Louisville a dapper gentleman, who declared 
himself a Marseillais, and who subsequently came to be 
known variously as The Major and The Frenchman. 
I shall not mention him otherwise in this 
veracious chronicle, but, looking through the city 
directory of Marseilles I found an entire page 
devoted to his name, though all the entries may not 
have been members of his family. There is no doubt 
that he was a Marseillais.</p>
            <p>Wandering through the streets of the old city, 
now in a café of La Cannebièere and now along a 
quay of the Old Port, his ghost has often crossed 
my path and dogged my footsteps, though he has 
lain in his grave this many a day. I grew to know 
him very well, to be first amused by him, then to be 
interested, and in the end to entertain an affection 
for him.</p>
            <p>The Major was a delightful composite of 
Tartarin of Tarascon and the Brigadier Gerard, with 
a dash of the Count of Monte Cristo; for when he
<pb id="watterson44" n="44"/>
was flush - which by some odd coincidence happened 
exactly four times a year - he was as liberal 
a spendthrift as one could wish to meet anywhere 
between the little principality of Monaco and the 
headwaters of the Nile; transparent as a child; 
idiosyncratic to a degree.</p>
            <p>I understand Marseilles better and it has always 
seemed nearer to me since he was born there and 
lived there when a boy, and, I much fear me, was 
driven away, the scapegrace of excellent and 
wealthy people; not, I feel sure, for any offense 
that touched the essential parts of his manhood. A 
gentler, a more upright and harmless creature I 
never knew in all my life.</p>
            <p>I very well recall when he first arrived in the 
Kentucky metropolis. His attire and raiment were 
faultless. He wore a rose in his coat, he carried a 
delicate cane, and a most beautiful woman hung 
upon his arm. She was his wife. It was a circumstance 
connected with this lady which led to the 
after intimacy between him and me. She fell 
dangerously ill. I had casually met her husband as an 
all-round man-about-town, and by this token, seeking 
sympathy on lines of least resistance, he came 
to me with his sorrow.</p>
            <pb id="watterson45" n="45"/>
            <p>I have never seen grief more real and fervid. He 
swore, on his knees and with tears in his eyes, that 
if she recovered, if God would give her back to him, 
he would never again touch a card; for gambling 
was his passion, and even among amateurs he would 
have been accounted the softest of soft things. His 
prayer was answered, she did recover, and he 
proceeded to fulfill his vow.</p>
            <p>But what was he to do? He had been taught, 
or at least he had learned, to do nothing, not even 
to play poker! I suggested that as running a 
restaurant was a French prerogative and that as 
he knew less about cooking than about anything else 
- we had had a contest or two over the mysteries of 
a pair of chafing dishes - and as there was not a 
really good eating place in Louisville, he should set 
up a restaurant. It was said rather in jest than in 
earnest; but I was prepared to lend him the money. 
The next thing I knew, and without asking for a 
dollar, he had opened The Brunswick.</p>
            <p>In those days I saw the Courier-Journal to press, 
turning night into day, and during a dozen years I 
took my twelve o'clock supper there. It was thus 
and from these beginnings that the casual acquaintance 
between us ripened into intimacy, and that I 
<pb id="watterson46" n="46"/>
gradually came into a knowledge of the reserves 
behind The Major's buoyant optimism and occasional 
gasconnade.</p>
            <p>He ate and drank sparingly; but he was not proof 
against the seduction of good company, and he had 
plenty of it, from William Preston to Joseph 
Jefferson, with such side lights as Stoddard Johnston, 
Boyd Winchester, Isaac Caldwell and Proctor 
Knott, of the Home Guard - very nearly all the 
celebrities of the day among the outsiders - myself 
the humble witness and chronicler. He secured an 
excellent chef, and of course we lived exceedingly 
well.</p>
            <p>The Major's most obvious peculiarity was that 
he knew everything and had been everywhere. If 
pirates were mentioned he flowered out at once into 
an adventure upon the sea; if bandits, on the land. 
If it was Wall Street he had a reminiscence and a 
scheme; if gambling, a hard-luck story and a 
system. There was no quarter of the globe of which 
he had not been an inhabitant.</p>
            <p>Once the timbered riches of Africa being mentioned, 
at once the Major gave us a most graphic 
account of how “the old house” - for thus he 
designated some commercial establishment, which either
<pb id="watterson47" n="47"/>
had no existence or which he had some reason for 
not more particularly indicating - had sent him in 
charge of a rosewood saw mill on the Ganges, and, 
after many ups and downs, of how the floods had 
come and swept the plant away; and Rudolph Fink, 
who was of the party, immediately said, “I can 
attest the truth of The Major's story, because my 
brother Albert and I were in charge of some fishing 
camps at the mouth of the Ganges at the exact date 
of the floods, and we caught many of those rosewood 
logs in our nets as they floated out to sea.”</p>
            <p>Augustine's Terrapin came to be for a while the 
rage in Philadelphia, and even got as far as New 
York and Washington, and straightway, The Major 
declared he could and would make Augustine 
and his terrapin look “like a monkey.” He 
proposed to give a dinner.</p>
            <p>There were great preparations and expectancy. 
None of us ate much at luncheon that day. At the 
appointed hour, we assembled at The Brunswick. 
I will dismiss the decorations and the preludes 
except to say that they were Parisian. After a while 
in full regalia The Major appeared, a train of 
servants following with a silver tureen. The lid was 
lifted.</p>
            <pb id="watterson48" n="48"/>
            <p><hi rend="italics"><foreign lang="fr">“Voilà!”</foreign></hi> says he.</p>
            <p>The vision disclosed to our startled eyes was an 
ocean that looked like bean soup flecked by a few 
strands of black crape!</p>
            <p>The explosion duly arrived from the assembled 
gourmets, I, myself, I am sorry to say, leading the 
rebellion.</p>
            <p>“I put seeks terrapin in zat soup!” exclaimed 
The Frenchman, quite losing his usual good English 
in his excitement.</p>
            <p>We reproached him. We denounced him. He 
was driven from the field. But he bore us no malice. 
Ten days later he invited us again, and this time 
Sam Ward himself could have found no fault with 
the terrapin.</p>
            <p>Next afternoon, when I knew The Major was 
asleep, I slipped back into the kitchen and said to 
Louis Garnier, the chef: “Is there any of that 
terrapin left over from last night?”</p>
            <p>All unconscious of his treason Louis took me into 
the pantry and triumphantly showed me three jars 
bearing the Augustine label and the Philadelphia 
express tags!</p>
            <p>On another occasion a friend of The Major's, 
passing The Brunswick and observing some 
<figure id="figure2" entity="watter48"><p>HENRY WOODFIN GRADY<lb/>ONE OF MR. WATTERSON'S “BOYS”,</p></figure>
<pb id="watterson49" n="49"/>
diamond-back shells in the window said, “Major, have 
you any real live terrapins?”</p>
            <p>“Live!” cried The Frenchman. “Only this morning 
I open the ice box and they were all dancing 
the cancan.”</p>
            <p>“Major,” persisted the friend, “I'll go you a 
bottle of Veuve Cliquot, you cannot show me an 
actual living terrapin.”</p>
            <p>“What do you take me for - confidence man?” 
The Major retorted. “How you expect an old 
sport like me to bet upon a certainty?”</p>
            <p>“Never mind your ethics. The wager is drink, 
not money. In any event we shall have the wine.”</p>
            <p>“Oh, well,” says The Frenchman, with a shrug 
and a droll grimace, “if you insist on paying for a 
bottle of wine come with me.”</p>
            <p>He took a lighted candle, and together they went 
back to the ice box. It was literally filled with 
diamond backs, and my friend thought he was gone 
for sure.</p>
            <p>“Là!” says The Major with triumph, rummaging 
among the mass of shells with his cane as he 
held the candle aloft.</p>
            <p>“But,” says my friend, ready to surrender, yet 
<pb id="watterson50" n="50"/>
taking a last chance, “you told me they were 
dancing the cancan!”</p>
            <p>The Major picked up a terrapin and turned it 
over in his hand. Quite numb and frozen, the 
animal within made no sign. Then he stirred the 
shells about in the box with his cane. Still not a 
show of life. Of a sudden he stopped, reflected a 
moment, then looked at his watch.</p>
            <p>“Ah,” he murmured. “I quite forget. The terrapin, 
they are asleep. It is ten-thirty, and the terrapin 
he regularly go to sleep at ten o'clock by the 
watch every night.” And without another word he 
reached for the Veuve Cliquot!</p>
            <p>For all his volubility in matters of romance and 
sentiment The Major was exceeding reticent about 
his immediate self and his own affairs. His legends 
referred to the distant of time and place. A certain 
dignity could not be denied him, and, on occasion, 
a proper reserve; be rarely mentioned his business 
- though he worked like a slave, and could not have 
been making much or any profit - so that there rose 
the query how he contrived to make both ends meet. 
Little by little I came into the knowledge that there 
was a money supply from somewhere; finally, it 
matters not how, that he had an annuity of forty 
<pb id="watterson51" n="51"/>
thousand francs, paid in quarterly installments of 
ten thousand francs each.</p>
            <p>Occasionally he mentioned “the Old House,” and 
in relating the famous Sophonisba, episode late at 
night, and only in the very fastnesses of the wine 
cellar, as it were, at the most lachrymose passage 
he spoke of “l'Oncle Célestin,” with the deepest 
feeling.</p>
            <p>“Did you ever hear The Frenchman tell that 
story about Sophonisba?” Doctor Stoic, whom on 
account of his affectation of insensibility we were 
wont to call Old Adamant, once asked me. “Well, 
sir, the other night he told it to me, and he was 
drunk, and he cried, sir; and I was drunk, and I 
cried too!”</p>
            <p>I had known The Frenchman now ten or a dozen 
years. That he came from Marseilles, that he had 
served on the Confederate side in the Trans-Mississippi, 
that he possessed an annuity, that he 
must have been well-born and reared, that he was 
simple, yet canny, and in his money dealings 
scrupulously honest - was all I could be sure of. What 
had he done to be ashamed about or wish to conceal? 
In what was he a black sheep, for that he 
had been one seemed certain? Had the beautiful 
<pb id="watterson52" n="52"/>
woman, his wife - a tireless church and charity 
worker, who lived the life of a recluse and a saint - 
had she reclaimed him from his former self? I 
knew that she had been the immediate occasion of 
his turning over a new leaf. But before her time 
what had he been, what had he done?</p>
            <p>Late one night, when the rain was falling and the
streets were empty, I entered The Brunswick. It 
was empty too. In the farthest corner of the little 
dining room The Major, his face buried in his 
hands, laid upon the table in front of him, sat 
silently weeping. He did not observe my entrance 
and I seated myself on the opposite side of the 
table. Presently he looked up, and seeing me, without 
a word passed me a letter which, all blistered 
with tears, had brought him to this distressful state. 
It was a formal French burial summons, with its 
long list of family names - his among the rest - 
the envelope, addressed in a lady's hand - his 
sister's, the wife of a nobleman in high military 
command - the postmark “Lyon.” Uncle Célestin was 
dead.</p>
            <p>Thereafter The Frenchman told me much which 
I may not recall and must not repeat; for, included 
in that funeral list were some of the best names in
<pb id="watterson53" n="53"/>
France, Uncle Célestin himself not the least of 
them.</p>
            <p>At last he died, and as mysteriously as he had 
come his body was taken away, nobody knew when, 
nobody where, and with it went the beautiful 
woman, his wife, of whom from that day to this I 
have never heard a word.</p>
          </div2>
        </div1>
        <pb id="watterson54" n="54"/>
        <div1 type="chapter">
          <head>CHAPTER THE FIFTEENTH</head>
          <head>STILL THE GAY CAPITAL OF FRANCE - ITS ENVIRONS  
<lb/>- WALEWSKA AND DE MORNY - THACKERAY IN  
<lb/>PARIS - A “PENSION” ADVENTURE.</head>
          <div2 type="subsection">
            <head>I</head>
            <p><emph rend="bold">EACH</emph> of the generations thinks itself 
commonplace. Familiarity breeds equally 
indifference and contempt. Yet no age of the world 
has witnessed so much of the drama of life - of the 
romantic and picturesque - as the age we live in. 
The years betwixt Agincourt and Waterloo were 
not more delightfully tragic than the years between 
Serajevo and Senlis.</p>
            <p>The gay capital of France remains the center of 
the stage and retains the interest of the onlooking 
universe. All roads lead to Paris as all roads led to 
Rome. In Dickens' day “a tale of two cities” could 
only mean London and Paris then, and ever so 
unalike. To be brought to date the title would have 
now to read “three,” or even “four,” cities, New 
<pb id="watterson55" n="55"/>
York and Chicago putting in their claims for 
mundane recognition.</p>
            <p>I have been not only something of a traveller, but 
a diligent student of history and a voracious novel 
reader, and, once-in-a-while, I get my history and 
my fiction mixed. This has been especially the case 
when the hum-drum of the Boulevards has driven 
me from the fascinations of the Beau Quartier into 
the by-ways of the Marais and the fastnesses of 
what was once the Latin Quarter. More than fifty 
years of intimacy have enabled me to learn many 
things not commonly known, among them that 
Paris is the most orderly and moral city in the 
world, except when, on rare and brief occasions, it 
has been stirred to its depths.</p>
            <p>I have crossed the ocean many times - have lived, 
not sojourned, on the banks of the Seine, and, as I 
shall never see the other side again - do not want to 
see it in its time of sorrow and garb of mourning - 
I may be forgiven a retrospective pause in this 
egotistic chronicle. Or, shall I not say, a word or 
two of affectionate retrogression, though perchance 
it leads me after the manner of Silas Wegg to drop 
into poetry and take a turn with a few ghosts into 
certain of their haunts, when you, dear sir, or
<pb id="watterson56" n="56"/>
madame, or miss, as the case may be, and I were 
living that “other life,” whereof we remember so 
little that we cannot recall who we were, or what 
name we went by, howbeit now-and-then we get a 
glimpse in dreams, or a “hunch” from the world of 
spirits, or spirts-and-water, which makes us fancy 
we might have been Julius Cæsar, or Cleopatra - 
as maybe we were! - or at least Joan of Arc, or 
Jean Valjean!</p>
          </div2>
          <div2 type="subsection">
            <head>II</head>
            <p>Let me repeat that upon no spot of earth has the 
fable we call existence had so rare a setting and 
rung up its curtain upon such a succession of 
performances; has so concentrated human attention 
upon mundane affairs; has called such a muster roll 
of stage favorites; has contributed to romance so 
many heroes and heroines, to history so many signal
episodes and personal exploits, to philosophy so 
much to kindle the craving for vital knowledge, to
stir sympathy and to awaken reflection.</p>
            <p>Greece and Rome seem but myths of an Age of 
Fable. They live for us as pictures live, as statues 
live. What was it I was saying about statues - 
that they all look alike to me? There are too many 
<pb id="watterson57" n="57"/>
of them. They bring the ancients down to us in 
marble and bronze, not in flesh and blood. We do 
not really laugh with Terence and Horace, nor weep 
with Æschylus and Homer. The very nomenclature 
has a ticket air like tags on a collection of 
curios in an auction room, droning the dull iteration 
of a catalogue. There is as little to awaken and 
inspire in the system of religion and ethics of the 
pagan world they lived in as in the eyes of the stone 
effigies that stare blankly upon us in the British 
Museum, the Uffizi and the Louvre.</p>
            <p>We walk the streets of the Eternal City with 
wonderment, not with pity, the human side quite 
lost in the archaic. What is Cæsar to us, or we to 
Cæsar? Jove's thunder no longer terrifies, and we 
look elsewhere than the Medici Venus for the lights 
o' love.</p>
            <p>Not so with Paris. There the unbroken line of 
five hundred years - semi-modern years, marking a 
longer period than we commonly ascribe to Athens 
or Rome - beginning with the exit of this our own 
world from the dark ages into the partial light of 
the middle ages, and continuing thence through the 
struggle of man toward achievement - tells us a tale 
more consecutive and thrilling, more varied and
<pb id="watterson58" n="58"/>
instructive, than may be found in all the pages of all 
the chroniclers and poets of the civilizations which 
vibrated between the Bosphorus and the Tiber, to 
yield at last to triumphant Barbarism swooping 
down from Tyrol crag and Alpine height, from the 
fastnesses of the Rhine and the Rhone, to swallow 
luxury and culture. Refinement had done its 
perfect work. It had emasculated man and unsexed 
woman and brought her to the front as a political 
force, even as it is trying to do now.</p>
            <p>The Paris of Balzac and Dumas, of De Musset 
and Hugo - even of Thackeray - could still be seen 
when I first went there. Though our age is as full 
of all that makes for the future of poetry and 
romance, it does not contemporaneously lend itself 
to sentimental abstraction. Yet it is hard to 
separate fact and fiction here; to decide between the 
true and the false; to pluck from the haze with 
which time has enveloped them, and to distinguish 
the puppets of actual flesh and blood who lived and 
moved and had their being, and the phantoms of 
imagination called into life and given each its local 
habitation and its name by the poet's pen working 
its immemorial spell upon the reader's credulity.</p>
            <p>To me D'Artagnan is rather more vital than 
<pb id="watterson59" n="59"/>
Richelieu. Hugo's imps and Balzac's bullies dance 
down the stage and shut from the view the tax-collectors 
and the court favorites. The mousquetaires 
crowd the field marshals off the scene. There is 
something real in Quasimodo, in Cæsar de Birotteau, 
in Robert Macaire, something mythical in 
Mazarin, in the Regent and in Jean Lass. Even 
here, in faraway Kentucky, I can shut my eyes and 
see the Lady of Dreams as plainly as if she were 
coming out of the Bristol or the Ritz to step into 
her automobile, while the Grande Mademoiselle is 
merely a cloud of clothes and words that for me
mean nothing at all.</p>
            <p>I once passed a week, day by day, roaming through
the Musée Carnavalet. Madame de Sévigné had
an apartment and held her salon there for nearly
twenty years. Hard by is the house where the
Marquise de Brinvilliers - a gentle, blue-eyed thing
they tell us - a poor, insane creature she must have
been - disseminated poison and death, and, just
across and beyond the Place des Vosges, the Hotel
de Sens, whither Queen Margot took her doll-rags
and did her spriting after she and Henri Quatre
had agreed no longer to slide down the same cellar
door. There is in the Museum a death-mask, colored
<pb id="watterson60" n="60"/>
and exceeding life-like, taken the day after
Ravaillac delivered the finishing knife-thrust in the 
Rue de Ferronnerie, which represents the Bèarnais 
as anything but a tamer of hearts. He was a 
fighter, however, from Wayback, and I dare say 
Dumas' narrative is quite as authentic as any.</p>
            <p>One can scarce wonder that men like Hugo, and
Balzac chose this quarter of the town to live in - 
and Rachael, too! - it having given such frequent
shelter to so many of their fantastic creations, 
having been the real abode of a train of gallants and
bravos, of saints and harlots from the days of Diane
de Poitiers to the days of Pompadour and du
Barry, and of statesmen and prelates likewise from
Sully to Necker, from Colbert to Turgot.</p>
          </div2>
          <div2 type="subsection">
            <head>III</head>
            <p>I speak of the Marais as I might speak of Madison 
Square, or Hyde Park - as a well-known local 
section - yet how few Americans who have gone to 
Paris have ever heard of it. It is in the eastern 
division of the town. One finds it a curious circumstance 
that so many if not most of the great cities
<pb id="watterson61" n="61"/>
somehow started with the rising, gradually to 
migrate toward the setting sun.</p>
            <p>When I first wandered about Paris there was little 
west of the Arch of Stars except groves and 
meadows. Neuilly and Passy were distant villages. 
Auteuil was a safe retreat for lovers and debtors, 
with comic opera villas nestled in high-walled 
gardens. To Auteuil Armand Duval and his Camille 
hied away for their short-lived idyl. In those days 
there was a lovely lane called Marguerite Gautier, 
with a dovecote pointed out as the very “rustic 
dwelling” so pathetically sung in Verdi's tuneful 
score and tenderly described in the original Dumas 
text. The Boulevard Montmorenci long ago 
plowed the shrines of romance out of the knowledge 
of the living, and a part of the Longchamps racecourse 
occupies the spot whither impecunious poets 
and adventure-seeking wives repaired to escape the 
insistence of cruel bailiffs and the spies of suspicious 
and monotonous husbands.</p>
            <p><foreign lang="la">Tempus fugit</foreign>! I used to read Thackeray's Paris 
Sketches with a kind of awe. The Thirties and the 
Forties, reincarnated and inspired by his glowing 
spirit, seemed clad in translucent garments, like the 
figures in the Nibelungenlied, weird, remote, glorified.
<pb id="watterson62" n="62"/>
I once lived in the street “for which no rhyme 
our language yields,” next door to a pastry shop 
that claimed to have furnished the <foreign lang="fr">mise en scène</foreign> 
for the “Ballad of Bouillabaisse,” and I often 
followed the trail of Louis Dominic Cartouche “down 
that lonely and crooked byway that, setting forth 
from a palace yard, led finally to the rear gate of 
a den of thieves.” Ah, well-a-day! I have known 
my Paris now twice as long as Thackeray knew his 
Paris, and my Paris has been as interesting as his 
Paris, for it includes the Empire, the Siege and the 
Republic.</p>
            <p>I knew and sat for months at table with Comtesse 
Walewska, widow of the bastard son of Napoleon 
Bonaparte. The Duke de Morny was rather a person 
in his way and Gambetta was no slouch, as 
Titmarsh would himself agree. I knew them both. 
The Mexican scheme, which was going to make 
every Frenchman rich, was even more picturesque 
and tragical than the Mississippi bubble. There 
were lively times round about the last of the Sixties 
and the early Seventies. The Terror lasted longer, 
but it was not much more lurid than the Commune; 
the Hotel de Ville and the Tuileries in flames, the 
column gone from the Place Vendôme, when I got
<pb id="watterson63" n="63"/>
there just after the siege. The regions of the 
beautiful Opera House and of the venerable Notre 
Dame they told me had been but yesterday running 
streams of blood. At the corner of the Rue 
de la Paix and the Rue Daunou (they called it 
then the Rue St. Augustine) thirty men, women, 
and boys were one forenoon stood against the wall 
and shot, volley upon volley, to death. In the 
Sacristy of the Cathedral over against the Morgue 
and the Hotel Dieu, they exhibit the gore-stained 
vestments of three archbishops of Paris murdered 
within as many decades.</p>
          </div2>
          <div2 type="subsection">
            <head>IV</head>
            <p>Thackeray came to Paris when a very young 
man. He was for painting pictures, not for writing 
books, and he retained his artistic yearnings if 
not ambitions long after he had become a great and 
famous man of letters. It was in Paris that he 
married his wife, and in Paris that the melancholy 
finale came to pass; one of the most heartbreaking 
chapters in literary history.</p>
            <p>His little girls lived here with their grandparents. 
The elder of them relates how she was once taken 
<pb id="watterson64" n="64"/>
up some flights of stairs by the Countess X to the 
apartment of a frail young man to whom the Countess 
was carrying a basket of fruit; and how the 
frail young man insisted, against the protest of the 
Countess, upon sitting at the piano and playing; 
and of how they came out again, the eyes of the 
Countess streaming with tears, and of her saying, 
as they drove away, “Never, never forget, my child, 
as long as you live, that you have heard Chopin 
play.” It was in one of the lubberly houses of 
the Place Vendôme that the poet of the keyboard 
died a few days later. Just around the corner, in 
the Rue du Mont Thabor, died Alfred de Musset. 
A brass plate marks the house.</p>
            <p>May I not here transcribe that verse of the famous 
“Ballad of Bouillabaisse,” which I have never 
been able to recite, or read aloud, and part of which 
I may at length take to myself:</p>
            <lg type="verse">
              <l>
                <hi rend="italics">“Ah me, how quick the days are flitting!</hi>
              </l>
              <l>
                <hi rend="italics">I mind me of a time that's gone,</hi>
              </l>
              <l>
                <hi rend="italics">When here I'd sit, as now I'm sitting</hi>
              </l>
              <l>
                <hi rend="italics">In this same place - but not alone -</hi>
              </l>
              <l>
                <hi rend="italics">A fair young form was nestled near me,</hi>
              </l>
              <l>
                <hi rend="italics">A dear, dear face looked fondly up,</hi>
              </l>
              <pb id="watterson65" n="65"/>
              <l>
                <hi rend="italics">And sweetly spoke and smiled to hear me,</hi>
              </l>
              <l>
                <hi rend="italics">There's no one now to share my cup.”</hi>
              </l>
            </lg>
            <p>The writer of these lines a cynic! Nonsense. 
When will the world learn to discriminate?</p>
          </div2>
          <div2 type="subsection">
            <head>V</head>
            <p>It is impossible to speak of Paris without giving 
a foremost place in the memorial retrospect to the 
Bois de Boulogne, the Parisian's Coney Island. I 
recall that I passed the final Sunday of my last 
Parisian sojourn just before the outbreak of the 
World War with a beloved family party in the joyous 
old Common. There is none like it in the world, 
uniting the urban to the rural with such surpassing 
grace as perpetually to convey a double sensation 
of pleasure; primal in its simplicity, superb in its 
setting; in the variety and brilliancy of the life 
which, upon sunny afternoons, takes possession of 
it and makes it a cross between a parade and a 
paradise.</p>
            <p>There was a time when, rather far away for foot 
travel, the Bois might be considered a driving park 
for the rich. It fairly blazed with the ostentatious
<pb id="watterson66" n="66"/>
splendor of the Second Empire; the shoddy Duke 
with his shady retinue, in gilded coach-and-four; 
the world-famous courtesan, bedizened with costly 
jewels and quite as well known as the Empress; the 
favorites of the Tuileries, the Comédie Française, 
the Opera, the Jardin Mabille, forming an unceasing 
and dazzling line of many-sided frivolity from 
the Port de Ville to the Port St. Cloud, circling 
round La Bagatelle and ranging about the Café 
Cascade, a human tiara of diamonds, a moving bouquet 
of laces and rubies, of silks and satins and 
emeralds and sapphires. Those were the days when 
the Duc de Morny, half if not full brother of the 
Emperor, ruled as king of the Bourse, and Cora 
Pearl, a clever and not at all good-looking Irish 
girl gone wrong, reigned as Queen of the Demimonde.</p>
            <p>All this went by the board years ago. Everywhere, 
more or less, electricity has obliterated distinctions 
of rank and wealth. It has circumvented 
lovers and annihilated romance. The Republic 
ousted the bogus nobility. The subways and the 
tram cars connect the Bois de Boulogne and the 
Bois de Vincennes so closely that the poorest may 
make himself at home in either or both.</p>
            <pb id="watterson67" n="67"/>
            <p>The automobile, too, oddly enough, is proving a 
very leveller. The crowd recognizes nobody amid 
the hurly-burly of <foreign lang="fr">coupés</foreign>, pony-carts, and taxicabs, 
each trying to pass the other. The conglomeration 
of personalities effaces the identity alike of the 
statesman and the artist, the savant and the cyprian. 
No six-inch rules hedge the shade of the trees and 
limit the glory of the grass. The <hi rend="italics"><foreign lang="fr">ouvrier</foreign></hi> can bring 
his brood and his basket and have his picnic where 
he pleases. The pastry cook and his <foreign lang="fr">chére amie</foreign>, the 
<foreign lang="fr">coiffeur</foreign> and his grisette can spoon by the lake-side 
as long as the moonlight lasts, and longer if they 
list, with never a gendarme to say them nay, or a 
rude voice out of the depths hoarsely to declaim, 
<foreign lang="fr">“allez!”</foreign> The Bois de Boulogne is literally and 
absolutely a playground, the playground of the people, 
and this last Sunday of mine, not fewer than 
half a million of Parisians were making it their own.</p>
            <p>Half of these encircled the Longchamps racecourse. 
The other half were shared by the boats 
upon the lagoons and the bosky dells under the 
summer sky and the cafés and the restaurants with 
which the Bois abounds. Our party, having 
exhausted the humors of the drive, repaired to Pré 
Catalan. Aside from the “two old brides” who are
<pb id="watterson68" n="68"/>
always in evidence on such occasions, there was a 
veritable “young couple,” exceedingly pretty to 
look at, and delightfully in love! That sort of thing 
is not so uncommon in Paris as cynics affect to 
think.</p>
            <p>If it be true, as the witty Frenchman observes, 
that “gambling is the recreation of gentlemen and 
the passion of fools,” it is equally true that love is 
a game where every player wins if he sticks to it 
and is loyal to it. Just as credit is the foundation 
of business is love both the asset and the trade-mark 
of happiness. To see it is to believe it, and - though 
a little cash in hand is needful to both - where either 
is wanting, look out for sheriffs and scandals.</p>
            <p>Pré Catalan, once a pasture for cows with a 
pretty kiosk for the sale of milk, has latterly had 
a tea-room big enough to seat a thousand, not counting 
the groves which I have seen grow up about it 
thickly dotted with booths and tables, where some 
thousands more may regale themselves. That 
Sunday it was never so glowing with animation and 
color. As it makes one happy to see others happy 
it makes one adore his own land to witness that 
which makes other lands great.</p>
            <p>I have not loved Paris as a Parisian, but as an
<pb id="watterson69" n="69"/>
American; perhaps it is a stretch of words to say 
I love Paris at all. I used to love to go there 
and to behold the majesty of France. I have 
always liked to mark the startling contrasts of light 
and shade. I have always known what all the world 
now knows, that beneath the gayety of the French 
there burns a patriotic and consuming fire, a high 
sense of public honor; a fine spirit of self-sacrifice 
along with the sometimes too aggressive spirit of 
freedom. In 1873 I saw them two blocks long and 
three files deep upon the Rue St. Honore press up 
to the Bank of France, old women and old men 
with their little all tied in handkerchiefs and stockings 
to take up the tribute required by Bismarck 
to rid the soil of the detested German. They did 
it. Alone they did it - the French people - the 
hard-working, frugal, loyal commonalty of France 
- without asking the loan of a sou from the world 
outside.</p>
          </div2>
          <div2 type="subsection">
            <head>VI</head>
            <p>Writing of that last Sunday in the Bois de Boulogne, 
I find by recurring to the record that I said: 
“There is a deal more of good than bad in every 
Nation. I take off my hat to the French. But, 
<pb id="watterson70" n="70"/>
I have had my fling and I am quite ready to go 
home. Even amid the gayety and the glare, the 
splendor of color and light, the Hungarian band 
wafting to the greenery and the stars the strains 
of the delicious waltz, La Veuve Joyeuse her very 
self - yea, many of her - tapping the time at many 
adjacent tables, the song that fills my heart is 
‘Hame, Hame, Hame! - Hame to my ain countree.’ 
Yet, to come again, d'ye mind? I should be loath 
to say good-by forever to the Bois de Boulogne. 
I want to come back to Paris. I always want to 
come back to Paris. One needs not to make an 
apology or give a reason.</p>
            <p>“We turn rather sadly away from Pré Catalan 
and the Café Cascade. We glide adown the 
flower-bordered path and out from the clusters of Chinese 
lanterns, and leave the twinkling groves to their 
music and merry-making. Yonder behind us, like 
a sentinel, rises Mont Valerien. Before us glimmer 
the lamps of uncountable coaches, as our own, veering 
toward the city, the moon just topping the tower 
of St. Jacques de la Boucherie and silver-plating 
the bronze figures upon the Arch of Stars.</p>
            <p>“We enter the Port Maillot. We turn into the 
Avenue du Bois. Presently we shall sweep with 
<pb id="watterson71" n="71"/>
the rest through the Champs Elysées and on to the 
ocean of the infinite, the heart of the mystery we 
call Life, nowhere so condensed, so palpable, so 
appealing. Roll the screen away! The shades of 
Clovis and Genevieve may be seen hand-in-hand 
with the shades of Martel and Pepin, taking the 
round of the ghost-walk between St. Denis and 
St. Germain, now le Balafré and again Navarre, 
now the assassins of the Ligue and now the 
assassins of the Terror, to keep them company. Nor 
yet quite all on murder bent, some on pleasure; the 
Knights and Ladies of the Cloth of Gold and the 
hosts of the Renaissance: Cyrano de Bergerac and 
François Villon leading the ragamuffin procession; 
the jades of the Fronde, Longueville, Chevreuse 
and fair-haired Anne of Austria; and Ninon, too, 
and Manon; and the never-to-be-forgotten Four, 
‘one for all and all for one;’ Cagliostro and Monte 
Cristo; on the side, Rabelais taking notes and 
laughing under his cowl. Catherine de Medici and 
Robespierre slinking away, poor, guilty things, into 
the pale twilight of the Dawn!</p>
            <p>“Names! Names! Only names? I am not just 
so sure about that. In any event, what a roll call! 
We are such stuff as dreams are made of, and our 
<pb id="watterson72" n="72"/>
little life is rounded by a sleep; the selfsame sleep 
which these, our living dead men and women in 
steel armor and gauzy muslins, in silken hose and 
sock and buskin, epaulettes and top boots, brocades 
and buff facings, have endured so long and know 
so well!</p>
            <p>“If I should die in Paris I should expect them 
- or some of them - to meet me at the barriers and 
to say, ‘Behold, the wickedness that was done in the 
world, the cruelty and the wrong, dwelt in the body, 
not in the soul of man, which freed from its foul 
incasement, purified and made eternal by the hand 
of death, shall see both the glory and the hand of 
God!’ ”</p>
            <p>It was not to be. I shall not die in Paris. I 
shall never come again. Neither shall I make 
apology for this long quotation by myself from 
myself, for am I not inditing an autobiography, so 
called?</p>
          </div2>
        </div1>
        <pb id="watterson73" n="73"/>
        <div1 type="chapter">
          <head>CHAPTER THE SIXTEENTH</head>
          <head>MONTE CARLO - THE EUROPEAN SHRINE OF SPORT 
<lb/>AND FASHION - APOCHRYPHAL GAMBLING 
<lb/>STORIES - LEOPOLD, KING OF THE BELGIANS - AN 
<lb/>ABLE AND PICTURESQUE MAN OF BUSINESS</head>
          <div2 type="subsection">
            <head>I</head>
            <p><emph rend="bold">HAVING</emph> disported ourselves in and about 
Paris, next in order comes a journey to the 
South of France - that is to the Riviera - by geography 
the main circle of the Mediterranean Sea, by 
proclamation Cannes, Nice, and Mentone, by actual 
fact and count, Monte Carlo - even the swells 
adopting a certain hypocrisy as due to virtue.</p>
            <p>Whilst Monte Carlo is chiefly, I might say 
exclusively, identified in the general mind with 
gambling, and was indeed at the outset but a gambling 
resort, it long ago outgrew the limits of the Casino, 
becoming a Mecca of the world of fashion as well as 
the world of sport. Half the ruling sovereigns of 
<pb id="watterson74" n="74"/>
Europe and all the leaders of European swelldom, 
the more prosperous of the demi-mondaines and no 
end of the merely rich of every land, congregate 
there and thereabouts. At the top of the season the 
show of opulence and impudence is bewildering.</p>
            <p>The little principality of Monaco is hardly 
bigger than the Cabbage Patch of the renowned Mrs. 
Wiggs. It is, however, more happily situate. 
Nestled under the heights of La Condamine and Tête 
de Chien and looking across a sheltered bay upon 
the wide and blue Mediterranean, it has better 
protection against the winds of the North than Nice, 
or Cannes, or Mentone. It is an appanage - in 
point of fact the only estate - remaining to the once 
powerful Grimaldi family.</p>
            <p>In the early days of land-piracy Old Man 
Grimaldi held his own with Old Man Hohenzollern 
and Old Man Hapsburg. The Savoys and the 
Bourbons were kith and kin. But in the long run 
of Freebooting the Grimaldis did not keep up with 
the procession. How they retained even this remnant 
of inherited brigandage and self-appointed 
royalty, I do not know. They are here under leave 
of the Powers and the especial protection, strange 
to say, of the French Republic.</p>
            <pb id="watterson75" n="75"/>
            <p>Something over fifty years ago, being hard-up 
for cash, the Grimaldi of the period fell under the 
wiles of an ingenious Alsatian gambler, Guerlac 
by name, who foresaw that Baden-Baden and 
Hombourg were approaching their finish and that 
the sports must look elsewhere for their living, the 
idle rich for their sport. This tiny “enclave” in
French territory presented many advantages over 
the German Dukedoms. It was an independent 
sovereignty issuing its own coins and postage 
stamps. It was in proud possession of a half-dozen 
policemen which it called its “army.” It was 
paradisaic in beauty and climate. Its “ruler” was as 
poor as Job's turkey, but by no means as proud as 
Lucifer.</p>
            <p>The bargain was struck. The gambler smote the 
rock of Monte Carlo as with a wand of enchantment 
and a stream of plenty burst forth. The 
mountain-side responded to the touch. It chortled 
in its glee and blossomed as the rose.</p>
          </div2>
          <div2 type="subsection">
            <head>II</head>
            <p>The region known as the Riviera comprises, as 
I have said, the whole land-circle of the Mediterranean
<pb id="watterson76" n="76"/>
Sea. But, as generally written and understood, 
it stands for the shoreline between Marseilles 
and Genoa. The two cities are connected by the 
Corniche Road, built by the First Napoleon, who 
learned the need of it when he made his Italian 
campaign, and the modern railway, the distance 
260 miles, two-thirds of the way through France, 
the residue through Italy, and all of it surpassing 
fine.</p>
            <p>The climate is very like that of Southern Florida. 
But as in Florida they have the “Nor'westers” 
and the “Nor'easters,” on the Riviera they have 
the “mistral.” In Europe there is no perfect winter 
weather north of Spain, as in the United States 
none north of Cuba.</p>
            <p>I have often thought that Havana might be made 
a dangerous rival of Monte Carlo under the one-man 
power, exercising its despotism with benignant 
intelligence and spending its income honestly upon 
the development of both the city and the island. 
The motley populace would probably be none the 
worse for it. The Government could upon a liberal 
tariff collect not less than thirty-five millions 
of annual revenue. Twenty-five of these millions 
would suffice for its own support. Ten millions a
<pb id="watterson77" n="77"/>
year laid out upon harbors, roadways and internal 
improvements in general would within ten years 
make the Queen of the Antilles the garden spot and 
playground of Christendom. They would build a 
Casino to outshine even the architectural miracles 
of Charles Garnier. Then would Havana put 
Cairo out of business and give the Prince of 
Monaco a run for his money.</p>
            <p>With the opening of every Monte Carlo season 
the newspapers used to tell of the colossal winnings 
of purely imaginary players. Sometimes the 
favored child of chance was a Russian, sometimes 
an Englishman, sometimes an American. He was 
usually a myth, of course. As Mrs. Prig observed 
to Mrs. Camp, “there never was no sich person.”</p>
          </div2>
          <div2 type="subsection">
            <head>III</head>
            <p>Charles Garnier, the Parisian architect, came and 
built the Casino, next to the Library of Congress 
at Washington and the Grand Opera House at 
Paris the most beautiful building in the world, with 
incomparable gardens and commanding esplanades 
to set it off and display it. Around it palatial hotels 
and private mansions and villas sprang into existence.
<pb id="watterson78" n="78"/>
Within it a gold-making wheel of fortune 
fabricated the wherewithal. Old Man Grimaldi in 
his wildest dreams of land-piracy - even Old Man 
Hohenzollern, or Old Man Hapsburg - never 
conceived the like.</p>
            <p>There is no poverty, no want, no taxes - not any 
sign of dilapidation or squalor anywhere in the 
principality of Monaco. Yet the “people,” so called, 
have been known to lapse into a state of discontent. 
They sometimes “yearned for freedom.” Too well 
fed and cared for, too rid of dirt and debt, too 
flourishing, they “riz.” Prosperity grew monotonous. 
They even had the nerve to demand a “Constitution.”</p>
            <p>The reigning Prince was what Yellowplush 
would call “a scientific gent.” His son and heir, 
however, had not his head in the clouds, being in 
point of fact of the earth earthly, and, of 
consequence, more popular than his father. He came 
down from the Castle on the hill to the marketplace 
in the town and says he: “What do you galoots 
want, anyhow?”</p>
            <p>First, their “rights.” Then a change in the 
commander-in-chief of the army, which had grown from 
<pb id="watterson79" n="79"/>
six to sixteen. Finally, a Board of Aldermen and 
a Common Council.</p>
            <p>“Is that all?” says his Royal Highness. They 
said it was. “Then,” says he, “take it, <foreign lang="fr">mes enfants</foreign>, 
and bless you!”</p>
            <p>So, all went well again. The toy sovereignty 
began to rattle around in its own conceit, the 
“people” regarded themselves, and wished to be 
regarded, as a chartered Democracy. The little 
gimcrack economic system experienced the joys of 
reform. A “New Nationalism” was established in 
the brewery down by the railway station and a 
reciprocity treaty was negotiated between the Casino 
and Vanity Fair, witnessing the introduction of 
two roulette tables and an extra brazier for cigar 
stumps.</p>
            <p>But the Prince of Monaco stood on one point. 
He would have no Committee on Credentials. 
He told me once that he had heard of Tom Reed 
and Champ Clark and Uncle Joe Cannon, but that 
be preferred Uncle Joe. He would, and he did, 
name his own committees both in the Board of 
Aldermen and the Common Council. Thus, for the 
time being, “insurgency” was quelled. And once 
more serenely sat the Castle on the hill hard by the 
<pb id="watterson80" n="80"/>
Cathedral. Calmly again flowed the waters in 
the harbor. More and more the autos honked outside 
the Casino. Within “the little ball ever goes 
merrily round,” and according to the croupiers and 
the society reporters “the gentleman wins and the 
poor gambler loses!”</p>
          </div2>
          <div2 type="subsection">
            <head>IV</head>
            <p>To illustrate, I recall when on a certain season 
the lucky sport of print and fancy was an Englishman. 
In one of those farragos of stupidity and 
inaccuracy which are syndicated and sent from 
abroad to America, I found the following piece 
with the stuff and nonsense habitually worked off 
on the American press as “foreign correspondence”:</p>
            <p>“Now and then the newspapers report authentic 
instances of large sums having been won at the 
gaming tables at Monte Carlo. One of the most 
fortunate players at Monte Carlo for a long time 
past has been a Mr. Darnbrough, an Englishman, 
whose remarkable run of luck had furnished the 
morsels of gossip in the capitals of Continental 
Europe recently.</p>
            <p>“If reports are true, he left the place with the 
snug sum of more than 1,000,000 francs to the good
<pb id="watterson81" n="81"/>
as the result of a month's play. But this, I hear,
did not represent all of Mr. Darnbrough's 
winnings. The story goes that on the opening day of
his play he staked 24,000 francs, winning all along
the line. Emboldened by his success, he continued
playing, winning again and again with marvelous
luck. At one period, it is said, his credit balance
amounted to no less than 1,850,000 francs; but from
that moment Dame Fortune ceased to smile upon
him. He lost steadily from 200,000 to 300,000
francs a day, until, recognizing that luck had turned
against him, he had sufficient strength of will to
turn his back on the tables and strike for home with
the very substantial winnings that still remained.</p>
            <p>“On another occasion a well-known London
stock broker walked off with little short of £40,000.
This remarkable performance occasioned no small
amount of excitement in the gambling rooms, as
such an unusual incident does invariably.</p>
            <p>“Bent on making a ‘plunge,’ he went from one
table to another, placing the maximum stake on
the same number. Strange to relate, at each table
the same number won, and it was his number.
Recognizing that this perhaps might be his lucky
day, the player wended his way to the 
			
<pb id="watterson82" n="82"/>
<foreign lang="fr">trente-et-quarante</foreign> room and put the maximum on three of 
the tables there. To his amazement, he discovered 
that there also he had been so fortunate as to select 
the winning number.</p>
            <p>“The head croupier confided to a friend of the 
writer who happened to be present that that day 
had been the worst in the history of the Monaco 
bank for years. He it was also who mentioned the 
amount won by the fortunate Londoner, as given 
above.”</p>
            <p>It is prudent of the space-writers to ascribe such 
“information” as this to “the head croupier,” 
because it is precisely the like that such an authority 
would give out. People upon the spot know that 
nothing of the kind happened, and that no person 
of that name had appeared upon the scene. The 
story on the face of it bears to the knowing its own 
refutation, being absurd in every detail. As if 
conscious of this, the author proceeds to quality it in 
the following:</p>
            <p>“It is a well-known fact that one of the most 
successful players at the Monte Carlo tables was 
Wells, who as the once popular music-hall song 
put it, ‘broke the bank’ there. He was at the zenith 
of his fame, about twenty years ago, when his 
<pb id="watterson83" n="83"/>
escapades - and winnings - were talked about widely 
and envied in European sporting circles and among 
the demi-monde.</p>
            <p>“In ten days, it was said, he made upward of 
£35,000 clear winnings at the tables after starting 
with the modest capital of £400. It must not be 
forgotten, however, that at his trial later Wells 
denied this, stating that all he had made was £7,000 
at four consecutive sittings. He made the statement 
that, even so, he had been a loser in the end.</p>
            <p>“The reader may take his choice of the two 
statements, but among frequenters of the rooms at 
Monte Carlo it is generally considered impossible 
to amass large winnings without risking large 
stakes. Even then the chances are 1,000 to 1 in 
favor of the bank. Yet occasionally there are 
winnings running into four or five figures, and to 
human beings the possibility of chance constitutes 
an irresistible fascination.</p>
            <p>“Only a few years ago a young American was 
credited with having risen from the tables $75,000 
richer than when first he had sat down. It was his 
first visit to Monte Carlo and he had not come with 
any system to break the bank or with any ‘get-rich-quick’ 
idea. For the novelty of the thing he risked 
<pb id="watterson84" n="84"/>
about $4,000, and lost it all in one fell swoop 
without turning a hair. Then he ‘plunged’ with double 
that amount, but the best part of that, too, went 
the same way. Nothing daunted, he next ventured 
$10,000. This time fickle fortune favored him. He 
played on with growing confidence and when his 
winnings amounted to the respectable sum of 
$75,000 he had the good sense to quit and to leave the 
place despite the temptation to continue.”</p>
          </div2>
          <div2 type="subsection">
            <head>V</head>
            <p>The “man who broke the bank at Monte Carlo,” 
and gave occasion for the song, was not named 
“Wells” and he was not an Englishman. He was 
an American. I knew him well and soon after the 
event had from his own lips the whole story.</p>
            <p>He came to Monte Carlo with a good deal of 
money won at draw-poker in a club at Paris and 
went away richer by some 100,000 francs (about 
$20,000) than he came.</p>
            <p>The catch-line of the song is misleading. There 
is no such thing as “breaking the bank at Monte 
Carlo.” This particular player won so fast upon 
two or three “spins” that the table at which he
<pb id="watterson85" n="85"/>
played had to suspend until it could be replenished 
by another “bank,” perhaps ten minutes in point 
of time. There used to be some twenty tables. 
Just how one man could play at more than one of 
them at one time a “foreign correspondent,” but 
only a “foreign correspondent,” might explain to 
the satisfaction of the horse-marines.</p>
            <p>I very much doubt whether any player ever won 
more than 100,000 francs at a single sitting. To 
do even that he must plunge like a ship in a hurricane. 
There is, of course, a saving limit set by the 
Casino Company upon the play. It is to the 
interest of the Casino to cultivate the idea, and the 
letter writers are willing tools. Not only at Monte 
Carlo, but everywhere, in dearth of news, gambling 
stories come cheap and easy. And the cheaper the 
story the bigger the play. “The Jedge raised him 
two thousand dollars. The Colonel raised him back 
ten thousand more. Both of 'em stood pat. The 
Jedge bet him a hundred thousand. The Colonel 
called. ‘What you got?’ says he. ‘Ace high,’ says 
the Jedge; ‘what you got?’ ‘Pair o' deuces,’ says 
the Colonel.”</p>
            <p>Assuredly the “play” in the Casino is entirely 
fair. It could hardly be otherwise with such crowds 
<pb id="watterson86" n="86"/>
of players at the tables, often covering the whole 
“layout.” But there is no such thing as “honest 
gambling.” The “house” must have “the best of 
it.” A famous American gambler, when I had 
referred to one of his guild, lately deceased, as “an 
honest gambler,” said to me: “What do you mean 
by ‘an honest gambler’?”</p>
            <p>“A gambler who will not take unfair advantage!” 
I answered.</p>
            <p>“Well,” said he, “the gambler must have his 
advantage, because gambling is his livelihood. He 
must fit himself for its profitable pursuit by learning 
all the tricks of trade like other artists and 
artificers. With him it is win or starve.”</p>
            <p>Among the variegate crowds that thronged the 
highways and byways of Monte Carlo in those days 
there was no single figure more observed and striking 
than that of Leopold the Second, King of the 
Belgians. He had a bungalow overlooking the sea 
where he lived three months of the year like a country 
gentleman. Although I have made it a rule to 
avoid courts and courtiers, an event brought me 
into acquaintance with this best abused man in 
Europe, enabling me to form my own estimate of his 
very interesting personality.</p>
            <pb id="watterson87" n="87"/>
            <p>He was not at all what his enemies represented 
him to be, a sot, a gambler and a <foreign lang="fr">roué</foreign>. In appearance 
a benignant burgomaster, tall and stalwart; 
in manner and voice very gentle, he should be 
described as first of all a man of business. His 
weakness was rather for money than women. Speaking 
of the most famous of the Parisian dancers with 
whom his name had been scandalously associated, 
he told me that he had never met her but once in 
his life, and that after the newspaper gossips had 
been busy for years with their alleged love affair. 
“I kissed her hand,” he related, “and bade her 
<foreign lang="fr">adieu</foreign>, saying, ‘Ah, ma'mselle, you and I have 
indeed reason to congratulate ourselves.’ ”</p>
            <p>It was the Congo business that lay at the bottom 
of the abuse of Leopold. Henry Stanley had put 
him up to this. It turned out a gold mine, and then 
two streams of defamation were let loose; one from 
the covetous commercial standpoint and the other 
from the humanitarian. Between them, seeking to 
drive him out, they depicted him as a monster of 
cruelty and depravity.</p>
            <p>A King must be an anchorite to escape calumny, 
and Leopold was not an anchorite. I asked him 
<pb id="watterson88" n="88"/>
why I never saw him in the Casino. “Play,” he 
answered, “does not interest me. Besides, I do not 
enjoy being talked about. Nor do I think the 
game they play there quite fair.”</p>
            <p>“In what way do you consider it unfair, your 
Majesty?” I asked.</p>
            <p>“In the zero,” he replied. “At the Brussels 
Casino I do not allow them to have a zero. Come 
and see me and I will show you a perfectly equal 
chance for your money, to win or lose.”</p>
            <p>Years after I was in Brussels. Leopold had 
gone to his account and his nephew, Albert, had 
come to the throne. There was not a roulette table 
in the Casino, but there was one conveniently 
adjacent thereto, managed by a clique of New York 
gamblers, which had both a single “and a double 
O,” and, as appeared when the municipality made 
a descent upon the place, was ingeniously wired 
to throw the ball wherever the presiding coupier 
wanted it to go.</p>
            <p>I do not believe, however, that Leopold was a 
party to this, or could have had any knowledge of 
it. He was a skillful, not a dishonest, business man, 
who showed his foresight when he listened to Stanley
<pb id="watterson89" n="89"/>
and took him under his wing. If the Congo 
had turned out worthless nobody would ever have 
heard of the delinquencies of the King of the 
Belgians.</p>
          </div2>
        </div1>
        <pb id="watterson90" n="90"/>
        <div1 type="chapter">
          <head>CHAPTER THE SEVENTEENTH</head>
          <head>A PARISIAN “PENSION” - THE WIDOW OF WALEWSKA, 
<lb/>NAPOLEON'S DAUGHTER-IN-LAW - THE
<lb/>CHANGELESS - A MORAL AND ORDERLY CITY</head>
          <div2 type="subsection">
            <head>I</head>
            <p><emph rend="bold">I HAVE</emph> said that I knew the widow of Walewska, 
the natural son of Napoleon Bonaparte 
by the Polish countess he picked up in Warsaw, 
who followed him to Paris; and thereby hangs 
a tale which may not be without interest.</p>
            <p>In each of our many sojourns in Paris my wife 
and I had taken an apartment, living the while in 
the restaurants, at first the cheaper, like the Café 
de Progress and the Duval places; then the Bœuf 
à la Mode, the Café Voisin and the Café Anglais, 
with Champoux's, in the Place de la Bourse, for a 
regular luncheon resort.</p>
            <p>At length, the children something more than 
half grown, I said: “We have never tried a Paris 
<hi rend="italics"><foreign lang="fr">pension</foreign></hi>.”</p>
            <pb id="watterson91" n="91"/>
            <p>So with a half dozen recommended addresses we 
set out on a house hunt. We had not gone far 
when our search was rewarded by a veritable find. 
This was on the Avenue de Courcelles, not far from 
the Parc Monceau; newly furnished; reasonable 
charges; the lady manager a beautiful well-mannered 
woman, half Scotch and half French.</p>
            <p>We moved in. When dinner was called the 
boarders assembled in the very elegant drawing-room. 
Madame presented us to Baron - . Then 
followed introductions to Madame la Duchesse and 
Madame la Princesse and Madame la Comtesse. 
Then the folding doors opened and dinner was 
announced.</p>
            <p>The baron sat at the center of the table. The 
meal consisted of eight or ten courses, served as if 
at a private house, and of surpassing quality. During 
the three months that we remained there was 
no evidence of a boarding house. It appeared an 
aristocratic family into which we had been hospitably 
admitted. The baron was a delightful person. 
Madame la Duchesse was the mother of Madame 
la Princesse, and both were charming. The 
Comtesse, the Napoleonic widow, was at first a little 
<pb id="watterson92" n="92"/>
formal, but she came round after we had got 
acquainted, and, when we took our departure, it 
was like leaving a veritable domestic circle.</p>
            <p>Years after we had the sequel. The baron, a 
poor young nobleman, had come into a little money. 
He thought to make it breed. He had an equally 
poor Scotch cousin, who undertook to play hostess. 
Both the Duchess and the Countess were his kinswomen. 
How could such a <foreign lang="fr">ménage</foreign> last?</p>
            <p>He lost his all. What became of our fellow-lodgers 
I never learned, but the venture coming to 
naught, the last I heard of the beautiful high-bred 
lady manager, she was serving as a stewardess on 
an ocean liner. Nothing, however, could exceed the 
luxury, the felicity and the good company of those 
memorable three months <hi rend="italics"><foreign lang="fr">chez l'Avenue de Courcelles, 
Parc Monceau</foreign></hi>.</p>
            <p>We never tried a <hi rend="italics"><foreign lang="fr">pension</foreign></hi> again. We chose a delightful 
hotel in the Rue de Castiglione off the Rue 
de Rivoli, and remained there as fixtures until we 
were reckoned the oldest inhabitants. But we never 
deserted the dear old Bœuf à la Mode, which we
lived to see one of the most flourishing and popular
places in Paris.</p>
          </div2>
          <pb id="watterson93" n="93"/>
          <div2 type="subsection">
            <head>II</head>
            <p>In the old days there was a little hotel on the Rue 
Dannou, midway between the Rue de la Paix and 
what later along became the Avenue de l'Opéra, 
called the Hôtel d'Orient. It was conducted by a 
certain Madame Hougenin, whose family had held 
the lease for more than a hundred years, and was 
typical of what the comfort-seeking visitor, somewhat 
initiate, might find before the modern tourist 
onrush overflowed all bounds and effaced the 
ancient landmarks - or should I say townmarks? - 
making a resort instead of a home of the gay French 
capital. The d'Orient was delightfully comfortable 
and fabulously cheap.</p>
            <p>The wayfarer entered a darksome passage that 
led to an inner court. There were on the four sides 
of this seven or eight stories pierced by many 
windows. There was never a lift, or what we Americans 
call an elevator. If you wanted to go up you 
walked up; and after dark your single illuminant 
was candlelight. The service could hardly be 
recommended, but cleanliness herself could find no 
fault with the beds and bedding; nor any queer 
<pb id="watterson94" n="94"/>
people about; changeless; as still and stationary as 
a nook in the Rockies.</p>
            <p>A young girl might dwell there year in and year 
out in perfect safety - many young girls did so - 
madame a kind of duenna. The food - for it was a 
<hi rend="italics"><foreign lang="fr">pension</foreign></hi> - was all a gourmet could desire. And the 
wine!</p>
            <p>I was lunching with an old Parisian friend.</p>
            <p>“What do you think of this vintage?” says he.</p>
            <p>“Very good,” I answered. “Come and dine with 
me to-morrow and I will give you the mate to it.”</p>
            <p>“What - at the d'Orient?”</p>
            <p>“Yes, at the d'Orient.”</p>
            <p>“Preposterous!”</p>
            <p>Nevertheless, he came. When the wine was 
poured out he took a sip.</p>
            <p>“By - !” he exclaimed. “That is good, isn't 
it? I wonder where they got it? And how?”</p>
            <p>During the week after we had it every day. Then 
no more. The headwaiter, with many apologies, 
explained that he had found those few bottles in 
a forgotten bin, where they had lain for years, and 
he begged a thousand pardons of monsieur, but we 
had drunk them all - <hi rend="italics"><foreign lang="fr">rien du plus</foreign></hi> - no more. I 
might add that precisely the same thing happened
<pb id="watterson95" n="95"/>
to me at the Hôtel Continental. Indeed, it is not 
uncommon with the French caravansaries to keep a 
little extra good wine in stock for those who can 
distinguish between an <hi rend="italics"><foreign lang="fr">ordinaire</foreign></hi> and a <hi rend="italics"><foreign lang="fr">supérieur</foreign></hi>, 
and are willing to pay the price.</p>
          </div2>
          <div2 type="subsection">
            <head>III</head>
            <p>“See Naples and die,” say the Italians. “See 
Paris and live,” say the French. Old friends, who 
have been over and back, have been of late telling 
me that Paris, having woefully suffered, is nowise 
the Paris it was, and as the provisional offspring 
of four years of desolating war I can well believe 
them. But a year or two of peace, and the city will 
rise again, as after the Franco-Prussian War and 
the Commune, which laid upon it a sufficiently 
blighting hand. In spite of fickle fortune and its 
many ups and downs it is, and will ever remain, 
“Paris, the Changeless.”</p>
            <p>I never saw the town so much itself as just before 
the beginning of the world war. I took my 
departure in the early summer of that fateful year 
and left all things booming - not a sign or trace 
that there had ever been aught but boundless happiness
<pb id="watterson96" n="96"/>
and prosperity. It is hard, the saying has it, 
to keep a squirrel on the ground, and surely Paris 
is the squirrel among cities. The season just ended 
had been, everybody declared, uncommonly successful 
from the standpoints alike of the hotels and 
cafés, the shop folk and their patrons, not to 
mention the purely pleasure-seeking throng. People 
seemed loaded with money and giddy to spend it.</p>
            <p>The headwaiter at Voisin's told me this: “Mr. 
Barnes, of New York, ordered a dinner, <foreign lang="fr">carte 
blanche</foreign>, for twelve.</p>
            <p>“ ‘Now,’ says he, ‘garcon, have everything bang 
up, and here's seventy-five francs for a starter.’</p>
            <p>“The dinner was bang up. Everybody hilarious. 
Mr. Barnes immensely pleased. When he came to 
pay his bill, which was a corker, he made no 
objection.</p>
            <p>“ ‘<foreign lang="fr">Garcon</foreign>,’ says he, ‘if I ask you a question will 
you tell me the truth?’</p>
            <p>
              <hi rend="italics">“ ‘<foreign lang="fr">Oui, monsieur; certainement.</foreign>’</hi>
            </p>
            <p>“Well, how much was the largest tip you ever 
received?”</p>
            <p>“Seventy-five francs, monsieur.”</p>
            <p>“ ‘Very well; here are 100 francs.’</p>
            <p>“Then, after a pause for the waiter to digest his
<pb id="watterson97" n="97"/>
joy and express a proper sense of gratitude and 
wonder, Mr. Barnes came to time with: ‘Do you 
remember who was the idiot that paid you the 
seventy-five francs?’</p>
            <p>“ ‘Oh, yes, monsieur. It was you.’ ”</p>
          </div2>
          <div2 type="subsection">
            <head>IV</head>
            <p>It has occurred to me that of late years - I mean 
the years immediately before 1914 - Paris has been 
rather more bent upon adapting itself to human 
and moral as well as scientific progress. There has 
certainly been less debauchery visible to the naked 
eye. I was assured that the patronage had so fallen 
away from the Moulin Rouge that they were 
planning to turn it into a decent theater. Nor 
during my sojourn did anybody in my hearing so 
much as mention the Dead Rat. I doubt whether 
it is still in existence.</p>
            <p>The last time I was in Maxim's - quite a dozen 
years ago now - a young woman sat next to me 
whose story could be read in her face. She was a 
pretty thing not five and twenty, still blooming, 
with iron-gray hair. It had turned in a night, I 
was told. She had recently come from Baltimore
<pb id="watterson98" n="98"/>
and knew no more what she was doing or whither 
she was drifting than a baby. The old, old story: 
a comfortable home and a good husband; even a 
child or two; a scoundrel, a scandal, an elopement, 
and the inevitable desertion. Left without a dollar 
in the streets of Paris. She was under convoy of 
a noted procuress.</p>
            <p>“A duke or the morgue,” she whimpered, “in six 
months.”</p>
            <p>Three months sufficed. They dragged all that 
remained of her out of the Seine, and then the whole 
of the pitiful disgrace and tragedy came out.</p>
          </div2>
          <div2 type="subsection">
            <head>V</head>
            <p>If ever I indite a volume to be entitled Adventures 
in Paris it will contain not a line to feed any 
prurient fancy, but will embrace the record of many 
little journeys between the Coiffeur and the Marché 
des Fleurs, with maybe an excursion among the 
cemeteries and the restaurants.</p>
            <p>Each city is as one makes it for himself. Paris 
has contributed greatly to my appreciation, and
perhaps my knowledge, of history and literature 
and art and life. I have seen it in all its aspects;
<pb id="watterson99" n="99"/>
under the empire, when the Duc de Morny was 
king of the Bourse and Mexico was to make every 
Frenchman rich; after the commune and the siege, 
when the Hôtel de Ville was in ruins, the palace of 
the Tuileries still aflame, the column gone from
the Place Vendôme, and everything a blight and 
waste; and I have marked it rise from its ashes, 
grandly, proudly, and like a queen come to her own 
again, resume its primacy as the only complete 
metropolis in all the universe.</p>
            <p>There is no denying it. No city can approach 
Paris in structural unity and regality, in things 
brilliant and beautiful, in buoyancy, variety, charm 
and creature comfort. Drunkenness, of the kind 
familiar to London and New York, is invisible to 
Paris. The brandy and absinthe habit has been 
greatly exaggerated. In truth, everywhere in 
Europe the use of intoxicants is on the decline. They 
are, for the first time in France, stimulated partly 
by the alarming adulteration of French wines, 
rigorously applying and enforcing the pure-food laws.</p>
            <p>As a consequence, there is a palpable and decided 
improvement of the vintage of the Garonne and the 
Champagne country. One may get a good glass of 
wine now without impoverishing himself. As men
<pb id="watterson100" n="100"/>
drink wine, and as the wine is pure, they fall away 
from stronger drink. I have always considered, 
with Jefferson, the brewery in America an excellent 
temperance society. That which works otherwise 
is the dive which too often the brewery fathers. 
They are drinking more beer in France - even making 
a fairly good beer. And then - </p>
            <p>But gracious, this is getting upon things controversial, 
and if there is anything in this world that 
I do hybominate, it is controversy!</p>
            <p>Few of the wondrous changes which the Age of 
Miracles has wrought in my day and generation 
exceeded those of ocean travel. The modern liner 
is but a moving palace. Between the ports of the 
Old World and the ports of the new the transit is 
so uneventful as to grow monotonous. There are 
no more adventures on the high seas. The ocean 
is a thoroughfare, the crossing a ferry. My experience 
forty years ago upon one of the ancient tubs 
which have been supplanted by these liners would 
make queer reading to the latter-day tourist, 
taking, let us say, any one of the steamers of any one 
of the leading transatlantic companies. The difference 
in the appointments of the William Penn of 
1865 and the star boats of 1914 is indescribable. It 
<pb id="watterson101" n="101"/>
seems a fairy tale to think of a palm garden where 
the ladies dress for dinner, a Hungarian band which 
plays for them whilst they dine, and a sky parlor 
where they go after dinner for their coffee and 
what not; a tea-room for the five-o'clockers; and 
except in excessive weather scarcely any motion at 
all. It is this palm garden which most appeals to 
a certain lady of my very intimate acquaintance 
who had made many crossings and never gone to 
her meals - sick from shore to shore - until the gods 
ordained for her a watery, winery, flowery paradise 
- where the billows ceased from troubling and a 
woman could appear at her best. Since then she 
has sailed many times, lodged à la Waldorf-Astoria 
to eat her victuals and sip her wine with perfect 
contentment. Coming ashore from our last crossing 
a friend found her in the Red Room of that 
hostel just as she had been sitting the evening 
before on shipboard.</p>
            <p>“Seems hardly any motion at all,” she said, looking 
about her and fancying herself still at sea, as 
well she might.</p>
          </div2>
        </div1>
        <pb id="watterson102" n="102"/>
        <div1 type="chapter">
          <head>CHAPTER THE EIGHTEENTH</head>
          <head>THE GROVER CLEVELAND PERIOD - PRESIDENT 
<lb/>ARTHUR AND MR. BLAINE - JOHN CHAMBERLAIN 
<lb/>- THE DECREES OF DESTINY</head>
          <div2 type="subsection">
            <head>I</head>
            <p><emph rend="bold">WHAT</emph> may be called the Grover Cleveland 
period of American politics began with the 
election of that extraordinary person - another man 
of destiny - to the governorship of New York. 
Nominated, as it were, by chance, he carried the 
State by an unprecedented majority. That was 
not because of his popularity, but that an incredible 
number of Republican voters refused to support 
their party ticket and stayed away from the 
polls. The Blaine-Conkling feud, inflamed by the 
murder of Garfield, had rent the party of Lincoln 
and Grant asunder. Arthur, a Conkling leader, 
had succeeded to the presidency.</p>
            <p>If any human agency could have sealed the 
<pb id="watterson103" n="103"/>
breach he might have done it. No man, however, 
can achieve the impossible. The case was hopeless.</p>
            <p>Arthur was a man of surpassing sweetness and 
grace. As handsome as Pierce, as affable as 
McKinley, he was a more experienced and dextrous 
politician than either. He had been put on the 
ticket with Garfield to placate Conkling. All sorts 
of stories to his discredit were told during the 
ensuing campaign. The Democrats made him out a 
tricky and typical “New York politician.” In 
point of fact he was a many-sided, accomplished 
man who had a taking way of adjusting all 
conditions and adapting himself to all companies.</p>
            <p>With a sister as charming and tactful as he for 
head of his domestic fabric, the White House 
bloomed again. He possessed the knack of 
surrounding himself with all sorts of agreeable people. 
Frederick Frelinghuysen was Secretary of State 
and Robert Lincoln, continued from the Garfield 
Cabinet, Secretary of War. Then there were three 
irresistibles: Walter Gresham, Frank Hatton and 
“Ben” Brewster. His home contingent - “Clint” 
Wheeler, “Steve” French, and “Jake” Hess - pictured 
as “ward heelers” - were, in reality, efficient 
<pb id="watterson104" n="104"/>
and all-around, companionable men, capable and 
loyal.</p>
            <p>I was sent by the Associated Press to Washington 
on a fool's errand - that is, to get an act of 
Congress extending copyright to the news of the 
association - and, remaining the entire session, my 
business to meet the official great and to make 
myself acceptable, I came into a certain intimacy with 
the Administration circle, having long had friendly 
relations with the President. In all my life I have 
never passed so delightful and useless a winter.</p>
            <p>Very early in the action I found that my mission 
involved a serious and vexed question - nothing less 
than the creation of a new property - and I 
proceeded warily. Through my uncle, Stanley 
Matthews, I interested the members of the 
Supreme Court. The Attorney General, a great 
lawyer and an old Philadelphia friend, was at my call 
and elbow. The Joint Library Committee of Congress, 
to which the measure must go, was with me. 
Yet somehow the scheme lagged.</p>
            <p>I could not account for this. One evening at a 
dinner Mr. Blaine enlightened me. We sat 
together at table and suddenly he turned and said: 
“How are you getting on with your bill?” And 
<pb id="watterson105" n="105"/>
my reply being rather halting, he continued, “You 
won't get a vote in either House,” and he 
proceeded very humorously to improvise the average 
member's argument against it as a dangerous 
power, a perquisite to the great newspapers and an 
imposition upon the little ones. To my mind this 
was something more than the post-prandial levity 
it was meant to be.</p>
            <p>Not long after a learned but dissolute old lawyer 
said to me, “You need no act of Congress to protect 
your news service. There are at least two, 
and I think four or five, English rulings that cover 
the case. Let me show them to you.” He did so 
and I went no further with the business, quite agreeing 
with Mr. Blaine, and nothing further came of 
it. To a recent date the Associated Press has relied 
on these decisions under the common law of England. 
Curiously enough, quite a number of newspapers 
in whose actual service I was engaged, 
opened fire upon me and roundly abused me.</p>
          </div2>
          <div2 type="subsection">
            <head>II</head>
            <p>There appeared upon the scene in Washington 
toward the middle of the seventies one of those 
<pb id="watterson106" n="106"/>
problematical characters the fiction-mongers delight 
in. This was John Chamberlin. During two decades 
“Chamberlin's,” half clubhouse and half chophouse, 
was all a rendezvous.</p>
            <p>“John” had been a gambler; first an underling 
and then a partner of the famous Morrissy-McGrath 
racing combination at Saratoga and Long 
Branch. There was a time when he was literally 
rolling in wealth. Then he went broke - dead 
broke. Black Friday began it and the panic of '73 
finished it. He came over to Washington and his 
friends got him the restaurant privileges of the 
House of Representatives. With this for a starting 
point, he was able to take the Fernando Wood 
residence, in the heart of the fashionable quarter, 
to add to it presently the adjoining dwelling of 
Governor Swann, of Maryland, and next to that, 
finally, the Blaine mansion, making a suite, as it 
were, elegant yet cozy. “Welcker's,” erst a 
fashionable resort, and long the best eating-place in 
town, had been ruined by a scandal, and “Chamberlin's” 
succeeded it, having the field to itself, 
though, mindful of the “scandal” which had made 
its opportunity, ladies were barred.</p>
            <p>There was a famous cook - Emeline Simmons - 
<pb id="watterson107" n="107"/>
a mulatto woman, who was equally at home in 
French dishes and Maryland-Virginia kitchen 
mysteries - a very wonder with canvasback and terrapin 
- who later refused a great money offer to be chef 
at the White House - whom John was able to 
secure. Nothing could surpass - could equal - her 
preparations. The charges, like the victuals, were 
sky-high and tip-top. The service was handled by 
three “colored gentlemen,” as distinguished in 
manners as in appearance, who were known far and 
wide by name and who dominated all about them, 
including John and his patrons.</p>
            <p>No such place ever existed before, or will ever 
exist again. It was the personality of John Chamberlin, 
pervasive yet invisible, exhaling a silent, 
welcoming radiance. General Grant once said to 
me, “During my eight years in the White House, 
John Chamberlin once in a while - once in a great 
while - came over. He did not ask for anything. 
He just told me what to do, and I did it.” I 
mentioned this to President Arthur. “Well,” he 
laughingly said, “that has been my experience with John 
Chamberlin. It never crosses my mind to say him 
‘nay.’ Often I have turned this over in my thought 
to reach the conclusion that being a man of sound 
<pb id="watterson108" n="108"/>
judgment and worldly knowledge, he has fully 
considered the case - his case and my case - leaving me
no reasonable objection to interpose.”</p>
            <p>John obtained an act of Congress authorizing 
him to build a hotel on the Government reservation 
at Fortress Monroe, and another of the Virginia 
Legislature confirming this for the State. Then he 
came to me. It was at the moment when I was 
flourishing as “a Wall Street magnate.” He said: 
“I want to sell this franchise to some man, or 
company, rich enough to carry it through. All I expect 
is a nest egg for Emily and the girls” - he had 
married the beautiful Emily Thorn, widow of George 
Jordan, the actor, and there were two daughters - 
“you are hand-and-glove with the millionaires. 
Won't you manage it for me?” Like Grant and 
Arthur, I never thought of refusing. Upon the 
understanding that I was to receive no commission, 
I agreed, first ascertaining that it was really a most 
valuable franchise.</p>
            <p>I began with the Willards, in whose hotel I had 
grown up. They were rich and going out of 
business. Then I laid it before Hitchcock and Darling, 
of the Fifth Avenue Hotel in New York. They, 
rich like the Willards, were also retiring. Then a 
<pb id="watterson109" n="109"/>
bright thought occurred to me. I went to the 
Prince Imperial of Standard Oil. “Mr. Flagler,” 
I said, “you have hotels at St. Augustine and you 
have hotels at Palm Beach. Here is a halfway 
point between New York and Florida,” and more 
of the same sort. “My dear friend,” he answered, 
“every man has the right to make a fool of himself 
once in his life. This I have already done. Never 
again for me. I have put up my last dollar south 
of the Potomac.” Then I went to the King of the 
transcontinental railways. “Mr. Huntington,” I 
said, “you own a road extending from St. Louis to 
Newport News, having a terminal in a cornfield 
just out of Hampton Roads. Here is a franchise 
which gives you a magnificent site at Hampton 
Roads itself. Why not?” He gazed upon me 
with a blank stare - such I fancy as he usually 
turned upon his suppliants - and slowly replied: “I 
would not spend another dollar in Virginia if the 
Lord commanded me. In the event that some 
supernatural power should take the Chesapeake &amp; 
Ohio Railway by the nape of the neck and the seat 
of the breeches and pitch it out in the middle of the 
Atlantic Ocean it would be doing me a favor.”</p>
            <p>So I returned John his franchise marked “nothing 
<pb id="watte