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Left home in the hack for Goodman this morning. Clear, hot, dry and dusty. Stopped at Sam. Allen's & got dinner. Richardson the driver. Met the driver of the hack that was coming this way, on the hill this side of Attalaville, who had a newspaper containing war news from Mo., which turned out to be fabulous.
Reached Goodman about 4 P.
M.— vidi J. P. D.--'s.
Left on the
cars about 9 o'clock at night. At West Station fell in with Jim
McAdory, Bob Webb, Phil Rayford & Ben Clark, who were on their way to
Union City, to the army.
On awaking this morning, we found we were below Water Valley: but after a while we reached Holly Springs, where we got breakfast, and proceeded on to Grand Junction. Major Bradford was on the cars, and favored some young soldiers with his views on some matters connected with the war.
We reached Jackson about 3 or 4 o'clock P. M., in midst of a rain. Lay over until next day. Very unpleasant on account of slop, mud and water. Our crowd occupied one room.
Got off to Humbold soon after breakfast. From H. went on to Clarksville, passing through Trezevant, McKenzie, Paris & crossing Tennessee river on a ferry boat, the railroad bridge not being finished.
Eat dinner at the river before crossing. M. Baroche, a Frenchman, was along. Near Paris a man named Tubbyville left us, who told us many things about Emmerson Etheridge, whose district Paris was in. I lost my hat this morning while looking out of the cars.
Crossed the Cumberland (after passing through a long tunnel) on a railroad bridge. Passed Camp Quarlls—on through Shakertown, Russellville, to Bowling Green, where I got a hat from a bystander, and also supper at the dining hall. The country hereabout is charming, the wh[e]at in its glory, & farmers busy cutting it with the patent reapers.
About dark we reached Cave City, and M. Baroche &
myself left
the cars to go to Mammoth Cave. We put up at Quigley's—a very nice
house. B. wished to know where the houses were. I told him I supposed
there [were] none but what he saw. “Ah! this then is one city by
courte-see,” said he.
This morning Baroche & myself took the hack and rode over to the
Cave, 9 1/2 miles distant. We passed over a rough, rocky region, bordering
on the mountainous, which furnished some fine scenery—distant wheat
fields ripe & yellow—farms—houses—towns—passed
a school-house—
an old church—the mouth of the Osceola cave.
On going into the cave (four of us & a guide) we found the air
quite cool, and a strong current setting out from our cave. We had
each a walking-stick, and a lamp. The current was sufficiently strong
Inferno:
“ Lasciate ogni esperanza,
voi ch'entrante.”
After we had proceeded some distance, I asked B. what he thought of the cave. “Vell, he look vair much like one big railroad tunnel,” said he. We saw the tracks of carts or wagons inside, used in the manufacture of saltpetre, long ago; and old timbers; and some cabins for consumptive persons; and the Gothic Chapel and the Star Chamber, with its stars and moon and comet. Here we sat down, while our guide took our lamps and disappeared by some subterranean passage. In his absence the darkness and silence were awful.
“ Silentia ipsa terrent.”
We rambled about through multitudinous passages, and labyrinths—
drinking at a spring—peering into the “bottomless pit”—viewing the
spot where [a] woman from Louisville married a man, after having
promised her first husband, on his death-bed, that she would never
marry again upon earth. “Keeping the word of promise to the ear, but
breaking it to the hope.”
We emerged, after having been in some three hours. We rested at
the mouth of the cave, for a while, in the beautiful grove of wild
forest trees growing at the entrance. An old dilapidated building
stands there, once used for entertaining travellers. I got some pieces
of alabaster to bring off in memoriam. The air outside of the current
After resting awhile, we returned to our hotel—refreshed, and eat dinner. At dinner M. Baroche inquired a good deal about the climate, soil, productions and labor of the country: and was much surprised to learn that women sometimes labored in the fields. He called for a bottle of claret which we drank while chatting.
In the afternoon we returned to Cave City, and at night took the cars for Louisville, at which place we arrived about midnight.
Stopped at the Louisville Hotel.
Rose early this morning, and walked out to get shaved & c.
Immediately after breakfast I left in the omnibus for New Albany. It rained a little and was rather cool. Observed a great many U. S. flags a-flying. Crossed the Ohio, and at New Albany took the cars for Chicago, via Lafayette. But few persons a-travelling. A man named Pennington, and another named Schaffer, from Montreal, were aboard. They had some business connection I believe, with the Grand Trunk Railway.
A man from Louisville, partner in law of Baird,
expressed some
very extravagant & even atrocious Union sentiments, which excited the
contemptuous mirth of the Canadian gentleman. Another person told him
he was as wild as Don Quixote.
Our lawyer had a good deal to tell of Gen. Scott and He was going a-fishing.
The country, during the fore part of the day, appeared poor and
uninviting. Small farms, small houses, small corn, small potatoes.
We passed through Salem, a pretty town; through Mitchell, where the
Ohio & Miss. Railway crosses, & where we eat dinner; through Bedford,
Bloomington, Gosport, and Greencastle, where the Terre Haute &
Richmond railway crosses. This is a fine country. We passed on
through Crawfordsville, to Lafayette. Before reaching Lafayette we
fell in with, and took aboard, a crowd of young man and maidens,
preachers and professors, from a College Commencement at Crawfordsville.
Just before reaching Lafayette, we passed through a most charming prairie country; and I received a good deal of information, geographical, agricultural, personal and political from the preachers on the train.
We arrived at L. about sunset, and remained till midnight waiting for the train from Toledo. Shaffer and myself walked around the town, and saw what was to be seen. While sitting up for the Toledo train, we listened to the talk of the crowd in the bar-room on the present war & its causes. To settle it, one man was in favor of taking all the fugitive slaves and all the free negroes, to the Southern line, and turning them all over to the South.
On the arrival of the Toledo train I want aboard, took a sleeping-car, and slept soundly. The night was cool.
This morning I awoke to find myself at Michigan City. The morning
We were delayed in waiting the arrival of some other train, which made our travelling this morning somewhat tedious. I observed the Calumet river creeping slugishly through the prairie, the grass growing rank to the water's edge. We passed the newly made grave of Stephen A. Douglass, on our left hand, a few miles this side of Chicago. “What shadows we are, and what shadows we pursue.”
We saw many vessels of various descriptions, tugs, propellers, schooners & c. on the deep blue lake, as we approached the city.
An elderly gentleman this morning was much discomposed at having lost a pair of new, fine boots last night in the sleeping-car, and finding in their place only a pair of old coarse ones that didn't fit him. As we went into the City I saw him sitting in his socks, with a grim, angry look. I went to the Metropolitan Hotel. The day was cloudy, windy and cool. I rambled over the City, and saw the sights. Had a good dinner at my hotel. Had my ambrotype taken, which I afterwards gave to Jennie.
After supper left on the cars for Milwaukee, La Crosse & St. Paul. As we took the cars observed an immense crowd of Norwegian emigrants, bound from Chicago Westward; men, women, children. We got off just before dark, and steamed along the western shore of the Lake, reaching Milwaukee about midnight.
On getting out of the cars into the cold, midnight air, I was
This morning opened cool. We found ourselves, on rising, near Portage City. We arrived at La Crosse about 10 o'clock, A. M., and immediately went on board the Steamer Northern Belle, lying in the Mississippi River, and bound for St. Paul. She was not to leave, however, until night.
On our route to La Crosse this morning, we passed Kilbourn City, Lyndon, Greenfield, Sparta, Bangor, & c. We went through a long tunnel. The country was not very inviting—lands poor, and a good deal of swamp. I got acquainted with a man named Ingersoll, who lives in St. Paul, (a merchant,) and who used to do business with Potwin at Burlington.
Soon after arriving at La Crosse I went across the long bridge into the City, and took a survey of its proportions. Dutch and other foreigners the principal population. Saw the sign “E. Flint, Attorney at Law,” and went up and found my old acquaintance, who graduated in 1836. He looked old—is a bachelor, lived with his Mother, or his Mother with him—had once taught school near Livingston, in Madison County, Miss., didn't make himself known to Tupper—said Cameron (Hugh) was resident in La Crosse.
I went back over the Long Bridge to the Northern Belle, to dinner—
returned to the City—felt very drowsy—went
into a Lager Beer Saloon,
sat down, leaning back against the wall, and dozed an hour or so—
Walked to Cameron's office, but he being professionally busy, I did not stay very long, nor have much chat with him. Went back to Flint's—sundry customers within—stayed and chatted till tea, and walked out about a mile back from the river, to Flint's residence, & took tea with him—his Mother presiding, (Mrs. Ford)—pleasant place—high bluffs beyond—population of place (Flint said) about 3,000.
Returned—went aboard the boat, and was about dark steaming up the Mississippi.
Last night, soon after going aboard the Northern Belle,
I retired
to my state room and fell asleep. This morning on rising, we found
ourselves near Maiden Rock, a precipice an the left bank, some two or
three hundred feet high, about which a legend is told of an Indian
maiden precipitating herself from the summit, & thus committing suicide
on account of disappointed love. The scenery hereabout is charming,
as it is along the whole course of the Mississippi travelled by us.
You see the bluffs assuming almost every variety of form, approaching
the river at one time, receding at another, green and covered for the
most part with trees or grass, though occasionally rocky and bare—
ever-changing and ever new, while the limpid water flows grandly onward
to the South, till lost in “the far-resounding sea.”
The shapes and forms of the hills or bluffs were exceedingly
singular, varied and fantastic. One was called “Barn Bluff” from its
shape. This morning we passed through Lake Pepin, a widening of the
Mississippi, varying from two to eight miles in breadth. I became
acquainted with a travelling lady this morning, who subscribed her name
“Miss Bell Potter, Marquette, Wisconsin.” She seemed carried away by
the charming scenery—pointed out such objects as particularly arrested
her attention. I remember a high, mountainous, woody bank which appears
on the right bank of the river. The mountain, if it may be so styled,
came down to the very water, from which it rose regularly some four or
five hundred feet, and was covered to the top with trees and shrubbery,
rising tree above tree. Our boat ran close to the shore, and gave us
an excellent opportunity to see this mountain bluff to advantage.
Lake Pepin, I suppose, is some 20 miles long. At Redwing my
romantic travelling friend left the boat. This place is not far from
the head of Lake Pepin. Among the characters on board was a man named
Holcomb, who lived at Stillwater, on the St. Croix River, which separates
Minnesota, in part, from Wisconsin. He was a rough-looking man, and
had been Lieut. Governor of Wisconsin. Also an old lady & little son,
who were going out to Minnesota from Vermont—name Howes—
settled a place—showed us
dagueoretypes of family, especially of a son who was in the army, a
fine looking young fellow. The old lady was very communicative, and
amusing from her simplicity.
We reached St. Paul about 5 o'clock P. M., and I went to the Winslow
Went back to St. Anthony, and found out the whereabouts of my friend Miss D. W. Godding with whom I chatted awhile and returned to Minneapolis. Weather cool.
Soon after breakfast I started in a buggy to go to Fort Snelling, some five or six miles below Minneapolis. Our ride was through a charming country, which stretched far away to the westward over prairie & forest. The driver enlightened me as to soil, climate, topography, geography, & c. & c. We first went to the Minnehaha Falls, a charming cataract, and worth forty St. Anthonies. The stream is small, the water clear, the fall about fifty feet, and the water like feathery silver, garnished with rainbows, as it dashes over the precipice.
There is a hotel here. After staying some hour or more, we proceeded
onward to Fort Snelling, near the mouth of the St. Peters River.
Our ride was over a lovely prairie. The place where Sherman trained
his choice flying artillery was pointed out on a smooth, beautiful,
rolling prairie. As we approached the Fort, we saw a lot of raw recruits
a-drilling, without arms or equipments. We drove into the Fort, looked
I lay down and fell asleep just before the dinner hour, and slept till late dinner. In the afternoon I walked over the Suspension Bridge to St. Anthony, and called on Miss Godding, whom I saw first in 1837, secondly in 1856, thirdly yesterday evening. She has charge of a Young Ladies' School, and has, as music teacher, Miss Lizzie Brooks, daughter of Wm. Brooks, whom I used to know in 1837, when we were members of the same debating Society. He married Emily Abbott.
I stayed and took tea. Saw a man named Blakeman and several others, members of the Episcopal Church, which edifice is alongside the School-House. Walked across the suspension bridge, and back, with D. Saw the comet for the first time tonight while standing on the bridge. Air cool. D. repeated some lines written by her, which struck me as quite fair.
Returned to Nicolett House, and slept soundly till morning, the night being quite cool.
Arose this morning and walked down (as I did yesterday morning) to St. Anthony Falls, on right bank. The falls have been made to propel machinery—saw logs—mills—dams & c. The romance is gone & the falls a humbug. The latitude of Fort Snelling is 44°53'—The Falls some 5' or 6' more. Went up on the observatory of the Nicollet house, & saw the country around—fine prospect—river, prairie, city & c. Immediately after breakfast I went aboard the stage coach for St. Paul, first going to the post office to inquire for letters for “Miss Sarah Daniels, & Mrs. Whittaker.”
Crossed to St. Anthony—Nicollet Island. Reached St. Paul about 10 o'clock. I went aboard the Northern Belle, and left St. Paul about noon. Scenery very fine—trip pleasant—company pleasant enough.
We passed through Lake Pepin just before sunset, and had a fine view of Maiden Rock, and other picturesque scenes. Weather cool & chilly. Doors of cabin closed—view of the comet after dark. Among the passengers was an old gentleman named Henry Wombaugh, of Addison, Steuben Co., N. Y. (an old Dutchman) and a certain doctor, from Wisconsin, near Racine, who had been up in Minnesota, hunting a location.
This morning we found ourselves at La Crosse, and at an early hour took the cars for Milwaukee. We had a very pleasant run across the State, passing Fox Lake, Beaver Dam, and other interesting localities.
At the dinner station saw the notorious Sherman M. Booth, (Horicon
We reached Milwaukee in the afternoon, and went immediately aboard a steamboat, which carried us across Lake Michigan, to Grand Haven. We left Milwaukee about 5 o'clock P. M. and reached Grand Haven about 10 or 11 at night, going immediately aboard the cars, of the Detroit and Milwaukee Railroad. The wind on the Lake was cool, the sky clear and our trip very pleasant. We saw the sun sink into the waters, saw the stars peep out, and beheld the comet spreading its dazzling tail in the Northern sky. On board was the Collector of the Port of Detroit, whose name I forget—a red-haired man, very talkative. Our Captain was a large, fine looking man, a little too fond of brandy—quite sociable.
Among the passengers was a very good looking young lady—Miss Christine Eustis, of North Haverhill, N. H., on her way thither from Minneapolis. We walked out on the deck, and looked at the comet, lights from vessels, & c. The air was quite cool, the wind fresh.
I slept in a sleeping-car last night, and early this morning, found
myself near Fentonville, and then at Holly, where I left the cars. The
place was cheerless and uninviting. We got a poor breakfast and left,
three of us besides the driver of our carriage, and struck out for
Flint, in Gennessee County. We were carried to that place by an old,
jolly chap named Roosevelt, who had a good team, and
Soon after dinner I took the stage for East Saginaw, which place I reached about 5 or 6 o'clock P. M. Passed a burnt tavern—country not as good as that about Flint, pine timber. A rough, vulgar, pioneer old fellow got into the stage, and annoyed us for several miles with drunken slang and coarse tales.
We crossed Cass river, and passed a locality prepared for tomorrow's celebration. At East Saginaw I found an excellent hotel, a nice sleeping room and bed, at Bancroft House. I learned there would be no chance to go down the river before to-morrow, so made up my mind to stay resignedly. Sat around the door of the hotel awhile, observing the hale, ruddy, stout men and the fair women, who were on the street, and then betook myself to my room, before dark, and was soon asleep. Awoke with a nightmare dream, and felt restless and uneasy afterwards.
Soon after breakfast this morning I had my trunk carried down
to the wharf to take the boat for Portsmouth some twelve or fourteen
miles below. The boat, on account of its being the 4th of July, did not
East Town.”
I remember two or three little yawls propelled by steam-engines, that
came and went before my departure, but no boat of any magnitude.
On board our boat was a pleasure-party, who fell to dancing: some others who were gambling: a chap who was “roping in” some green-horns, inducing them to “bet against his own tricks,” and sundry others.
We passed Zilwaukee, and soon reached Portsmouth between 11 & 12 o'clock. Landed at Bradford's, and walked up to Capt. Bradford's about 1/2 a mile. Nobody at home but M. A. and children. The residue soon appeared—Matilda, Sparks et al. M. A. was threatened with a chill, it being her “chill-day,” and was “fighting against it.”
Walked out to the Salt Works with W., and took a stroll through the surrounding woodlands, where the soil is rich, the surface level, and the timber heavy.
At night doors and windows all closed to keep out the
This morning, after breakfast, we crossed over the Saginaw to the
Returning we had dinner, and in the afternoon I went with T. E. and Capt. S. to Bay City, in a buggy, and saw a considerable number of it's denizens.
Before our return from Stone's T. E. and I had gone to a German's house for eggs, passing through Stone's garden, but failed in getting the eggs, but not in having a pleasant walk and talk. We had a strawberry short-cake as the reward of our strawberry-picking.
After supper I strolled down town, and then back, passing by the
house, up towards the Salt-Works. M. A. joined me—told me my name
ought to have been Walker—chatted, and returned. T. E. joined us
just before we reached the house. Mrs. Bradford at the house—
singing and playing on the piano.
After breakfast this morning we went a-winter greening. Sparks,
Afternoon was spent mostly at the house. M. A. showed a little volume of poems, from one of which, by Jeffrey, I extract the following verse:
At night walked with Sparks & A. W. to Bay City, went aboard the Forest Queen, and after delaying an hour or two at the landing, steamed down the river, into the bay towards the broad and open lake (Huron.)
Retired to my berth and slept till some two o'clock, when I rose,
went up on the deck, and sat down enjoying the fresh, pure air “so cool,
so sweet.” I found the pilot and officers perplexed by two lights, one
of which had probably been hung out by some fisherman and the other by
persons at a regular landing. The speed was checked, the eyes strained,
observations taken as well as could be done, and finally a selection
made between the lights, and the course decided on. “I don't wish
those fellows (the fishermen who held out the false lights,) any harm,
(said an old salt,) but I wish their d---d necks were broke.” This
was just at daylight, when we approached the landing. I have forgotten
The morning was cloudy—the lake still—the signs prophetic of rain. We sped along over the bright blue water and could see many vessels as we steamed down the Lake. The woods were on fire along the Michigan shore, and a few days ago the smoke darkened the atmosphere. Even now we could smell the smoke, and burning woods, as it came wafted over the Lake.
We landed at a place called Forestville, on the American shore. The shores are low, unromantic, and uninviting: the timber fine, spruce, fir or hemlock, the shores sandy, and the land apparently sterile. The country appears to be mostly a forest.
At a landing this morning a rough, burly fellow told me he had been to Saginaw an a frolic; that he had a brother and friends in the army who “blackguarded” him about not going in the army; a thing he seemed noways inclined to do.
At Forestville some fellows came rushing down to our boat on a
hand-car. Nearly all day we steamed down the Lake—vessels constantly
in sight—water slightly agitated and foamy—occasional openings in
the forest visible along the shore—once in a long time a town, as
Lexington—water greenish blue at times, and occasionally dark, except
as whitened by foam. In the afternoon we fell in with a disabled “tug,”
and took her in tow. A heavy rain, charged with thunder, was just
About 5 or 6 o'clock P. M. I was landed at Port Huron in latitude 43°, Long. 82° 10', on St. Clair river, just below Fort Gratiot and opposite Port Sarnia, in Canada. I went immediately to Larned's hotel.
I walked out back from the river, and up Black river, which at this point unites with the St. Clair. The site of the town is pleasant, inclining to level. Pine woods around, similar to those seen in the Indian old fields in Mississippi.
At night, at Larned's, a man named V. A. Ripley edified us with
his views of the war, its causes, and consequences, concluding with
an anecdote to the effect that “the ball must go on.”
Saw Lincoln's message to the extra session of Congress.
This morning I rode with Ripley up Black river and across it, to see the saw-mills, piles of lumber, fine buildings & c. He showed me a marvel of a schoolhouse, a large brick building which looked like a college edifice.
About 9 o'clock I took the omnibus, rode to the depot, crossed,
on the arrival of the cars from Detroit, to Sarnia, bought a ticket to
Portland, ($16.) and left for Toronto. Among the notabilities in the
crowd was a man with a formidable white hat, red face, 6 1/4 feet height,
fine proportions, who lived near Guelph. He came down the Lake with
us yesterday, and was a conspicuous object in the crowd. Our run to-day
was through a rather poor country, with exceptions—hemlock timber—
This morning found ourselves at Kingston, where we got breakfast— saw a fellow named “J. Riodan,” who professed to have travelled all over the South, and was very talkative on Southern matters.
At Prescott he left us. We had a hard rain today for a while.
Reached Montreal in the afternoon, passing through the flat French country, & crossing the Ottawa river & River & River Beaudette, & passing Couteau Landing, St. Anne's & Pointe Claire.
I formed a travelling acquaintance with a young Canadian who lived in Quebec, and with whom I went from the depot up into the City—St. Lawrence Hotel—Lord Mahon's History of the War of Spanish Succession— Churches—private dwellings & c.—left for Richmond about 5 o'clock, passed over the great Victoria Bridge, long and dark—mountains— Richlieu river—St. Hyacinthe—miserable country a part of the way— traces of a storm—Durham.
From gloom and swamps we all at once emerged into sunlight and
Went on about 9 o'clock—landed at S.—got a vehicle to convey me to J's.
After breakfast walked up to town—saw Walton & talked with him
for a few minutes—also Geo. Robertson, who informed me that he was
in Paris last year—Walked back—the little school-girls in the
street—got off about 10 or 11 o'clock—went by Lennoxville at Sh.—
saw Willard whose sons are in Ill.—also saw Becket, whom I met in
the street in S.—Dr. Nichols's old place—called at Brooks's at
Lennoxville to present Lizzie's respects—passed up by Dr. Wilson's
old place—thence up the river Coaticook, up a long hill from the top
of which we had a fine view—(Jack & I) in our vehicle—saw a barn
raising—At Waterville Jack and I took a drink of beer, passed on
through the Grand Brulé—met C's wife and her sister—passed on and
reached Noverca's about 4 o'clock. Lucy Pratt
Rain—kept the house most of the day—P. M. strawberries—walk
Heavy rain towards night—Nancy's Mother there—her daughter
& son
Yesterday while at Ch. saw Lucy Wadley (muger—
today cool—rode to Waterville with Perkins, through Grand Brulé—
stopped at C's—cars delayed in getting in owing to washing away of
culverts—rode with P. up to Carlos Thomas's—
Soon after breakfast we got off this morning—ponds, mountains,
rivers, and islands—wild scenery—crossed Nulhegan river, then the
Connecticut—then we came to Gorham, N. H. in the neighborhood of
Mount Washington—bear chained to a post—Kentucky woman and her
husband captivated by the wild mountain scenery—snow still on the
mountains. Along the Andrascoggin river—Bryant's Pond—South Paris,
where we got the best dinner I had eaten for many a day,—reached
Portland about 2 o'clock P. M.—Went aboard the Ferry Boat for Peak's
On landing at the Island I saw a crowd of persons amusing themselves by swinging, lounging & c. I went to find C. He was out a-sailing. I went down to the shore of the far-resounding sea, and stood there for some time, gazing at the waves and foam, and occasionally picking up pebbles and shells. Soon C. came in and we rambled over the island, down to the sea-shore, and finally back to the Ferry boat, where we sat till the boat left, when we returned to the island, and I came over to Portland.
At Burnham's I inquired for my trunk, which the porter, (nicknamed
“Thumby,”) was to have left there, and could hear nothing of it.
Took a carriage, rode to Boston & Maine Railroad depot—thence to
encampment of 6th Maine Regiment, thence to U. S. Hotel, where I put
up for the night.
Bought the little girls some nets for their hair—bought a pair of boots, and three pair of shoes. Many fair dames promenading.
This morning, after breakfast, went down to Custom House wharf, and procuring passage in a sailboat, crossed over to Peak's Island— young lady aboard and three other men and a boy. Had a very agreeable sail—saw the Mary Goodell, a vessel overhauled by the privateer Jeff. Davis. Saw C--s—found my trunk and went back to Portland accompanied by C--s, who eat dinner with me at U. S. Hotel.
After dinner he walked with [me] around the City, and about 4
o'clock P. M. we went down to the wharf, where he went aboard a sailboat
At night I did not sleep very well, and got up, lighted the gas-light, opened a window, and the door of my room, and after inhaling copious draughts of fresh air, felt relieved, returned to bed, and slept comfortably till morning.
After breakfast this morning went down to Brooks's, (Wm.) but not finding him at his store, went to his house, where I saw his wife and daughters, one, the fac simile of Lizzie, whom I saw in St. Anthony.
After staying a few minutes returned to U. S. Hotel, riding a part of the way with an anti-war old gentleman, of whom I inquired the way.
Getting into a carriage I was whirled to the depot of the Boston & Maine Railroad where I found Wm. Brooks, and with him I had a few minutes' conversation.
About 8 o'clock A. M. we left. Judge Weston of Maine Supreme Court was on the train, an old man, very talkative. He spoke of Thinlow, Wilkes, Loughborough, & c. & c. Reached Boston about 1 o'clock. I went to Revere House. Bot. of Little, Brown & Co. Mahon's Hist. Eng'd. Was in the publishing house of Ticknor & Fields, & saw Lackhart's Life of Scott in process of publication. Saw Winslow and Juliet, his daughter, a very pretty girl.
Left Boston about dark for New York. Took a sleeping car, and found myself in N. Y. about sunrise.
Went to the Astor House—got breakfast, and went over to Brooklyn. Went to Salmon's, and stayed awhile. His residence was 301 Carlton Avenue, Brooklyn. Stayed an hour or two, and promised to return to tea. Went back to N. Y.
After dinner went across to Brooklyn again to No. 55 St. Felix
Street, where I found Rev. A. H. Dashiell, and with whom I stayed and
chatted some two hours or more. He gave me a history of his troubles
in Shelbyville—of his offensive preaching—of the burning of his
house—of his going to Rogersville, Tenn., and of his troubles there—
of his settling in the North—spoke of Robert, a bright boy, but one
who had fallen into bad ways, and been ruined—of George now in
Confederate army, and of one of his other sons domiciled in Jackson, Tenn.
Spoke of present Farewell!” and went to Salmon's.
Here I took tea, and stayed till after dark, a rain coming up
about dusk. S. spoke of the present gloomy times—the ruin of all
business—the flinty hardness of times. His Mother-in-law, Mrs. Foan,
was there and her daughter, his son Daniel's widow, a very modest,
pretty appearing woman. His daughters too, (one of them grown,) very
nice girls. But a large city I abhor, as a place of residence for a
Parted from them—took the horse-cars after standing under an awning for a few minutes, sheltered from the rain.
Went to the Fulton Ferry—took an omnibus and went to the Astor-House. Walked up Broadway, a short distance, and back to hotel.
Arose early this morning, and walked to Metropolitan Hotel, where I purchased a through ticket, via Erie Railroad, to Louisville, Ky.
Immediately after breakfast took a carriage for the Ferry, and was carried over to Jersey City. There we took the cars, and were soon flying over the N. Y. and Erie Railway, towards Lake Erie. We passed Paterson and Part Jervis—Hudson and Delaware Canal—Great Bend and Lackawanna Railway,—dinner at Narrowsburg—observed near Great Bend the Neversink, a sluggish looking stream—M. E. S. once resided hereabout —a beautiful day—sunny—lovely—glorious. Binghampton—Elmira— Corning—about midnight at Dunkirk, where we took the cars for Cleveland.
Saw a man named Jas. B. Hoxsie, South Kingston, R. I. who has been a railroad engineer in East Tennessee—also saw another railroad man, who gave me much local and geographical information. Scenery all the way very bold and striking.
This morning we found ourselves running along Lake Erie, close to
Here we took the cars for Gallion, passing Crestline, the place where Pittsburgh & Fort Wayne road crosses. Did not particularly admire the country, it being too low and flat.
At Gallion we took the road to Indianapolis (Bellefontaine road), passing through Marion, Bellefontaine, Sidney, Union & c. The country seems to be much better than the one we passed through early this morning. Ran through the counties of Cuynoga, Lorain, Huron, Richmond, Crawford, Marion, Hardin, Logan, Shelby, & Dark, in Ohio. In Indiana we passed through Randolph, Delaware, Madison, Hancock & Marion, in which last is the pretty capital, Indianapolis, We reached here awhile before night and taking the cars for Jeffersonville were soon off.
Eat supper at Franklin—Shaffer, the Canadian, aboard—reached
Jeffersonville about midnight—passed through the Counties of Johnson,
Bartholomew, Jennings, and Jefferson; and through the towns of Franklin,
Edinburg, Columbus and Seymour. Among my fellow travellers was a man
named S. Y. Yeury, of Sulphur Springs, Hopkins Co., Texas.
We were detained awhile at Jeffersonville by officers inspecting the baggage, and searching trunks. One man was called on to open his trunk, and on his exhibiting therein a “revolver” was permitted to take it along, giving assurances that it was the only one he had.
Our ride was a rough one, trying the strength of the omnibus. We went to the Louisville Hotel.
Wrote several letters and mailed them this morning as it is about
the last chance, before plunging into the “Southern Confederacy.” Sent
T. E. S. copy of Wordsworth's Poems—wrote
Some showers—At Hadensville, Ky., near State Line, were detained for some time, during which it rained, for cars from Nashville. They arrived away behind time, and we were whirled to Clarksville via Camp Boone, thence to Tennessee River, Paris and Humbold. At Russellville, or some other station not far from there, we saw a crowd rejoicing over the news of a victory gained by Confederates over Federals.
We ran very fast last night, and gained enough to make up arrears. Reached Humbold between daylight and sunrise—at Clarksville last night there was an exultant crowd because of the Bull Run affair of the 18th.
At the Tennessee river we crossed in a Ferry Boat, on which there was a good deal of “imbibing.” A planter from Washington Co, Miss., with his son, was aboard, to whom I gave several Northern newspapers that I had brought along.
Yesterday saw a man at South Union named T. D. Carson. We waited
for the cars from Columbus, Ky., this morning at Humbold, and on their
Saw Thorn Murrell—also N. O. Beake—R. G. Payne wished to know if ever I had lived in Sh--e.
At night we got off from Jackson, and ran up to Holly Springs and stopped for the night. I took an omnibus, rode up to the hotel, and betook myself to bed.
This morning I stayed around the hotel most of the time until the omnibus came for us at about 1/2 past 11 to convey us to the depot.
I took a stroll over the town and admired its shrubbery, trees, & c. A young man from N. Orleans, more recently from Memphis, formerly connected with Texas line of Steam-ships, was also staying at the hotel, detained like myself. A man named Lloyd was there, from Memphis, I think, who spoke of his having been made to leave N. Y. for some imprudent utterances.
We got dinner at the depot, and were soon off. Sam Rogers and
sundry other boys from Attala along—the corpse of Tobias Cook's son
was on the train—cars a good deal crowded. Ethel Barksdale and Col.
Cushman on the train—C. late
On the way down it rained a little, especially while we were at or near Grenada. Reached West Station a short time before sunset.
Left my trunk at Williamson McAdory's, and struck out an foot towards Kosciusko, in company with Sam Rogers and Fresnian Maddox.
Crossed the Ferry, kept by Hooker Armstrong—followed a shorter
route pointed out by him, through an old field, over a rocky hill, by
a grave-yard. Stopped at Jack Evans's—got some supper—scores of
candle-flies—after supper I started on towards home, leaving R. &
M. at Evans's—met E. in the road, and talked awhile with him—pushed
on to Sam Hyman's, whom Shurkey”—missed the road and got away down by
Russell's, Sam Little's, Wingoe's, old Billy Boyette's, Atwood's and
the Lord knows where. I never did have such a time in doubling,
winding, crossing and turning. My trip seemed like the perplexities
of some horrid dream, whose intricacies had neither clue nor escape.
The moon was shining till towards morning, when clouds betokening rain
were thickening in the Heavens.
I reached home at a very late—rather a very early—hour, say an hour before day on
This morning I found myself at home—the wife & babies all well
and comfortable. The rain was falling in torrents. I sent Sam Hyman's
pony back by “Britt McAdory.” So ends my month's tour to the North,
Now for a recapitulation of the distances travelled, and other matters. From Kosciusko to Goodman 23 miles: Goodman to Holly Springs 136: from H. S. to Humbold, Tenn. 90: from Humbold to Tennessee River (say) 70 miles: from Tennessee River to Bowling Green, Ky., (say) 105: from Bowling Green to Louisville 115: From Cave City to Mammoth Cave and back 19 miles. Total from Kosciusko to Louisville, Ky. including trip to Cave 458. From Louisville, Ky. to Michigan City 292: From M. City to Chicago 56: from Chicago to Milwaukee 85: from Milwaukee to La Crosse 200; from La Crosse to St. Paul 160; from St. Paul to Minneapolis 9—Total from Louisville, Ky. to Minneapolis 812. From M. to Fort Snelling 6 miles and back 6; from M. to Milwaukee 370; from Milwaukee to Grand Haven 85; from G. H. to Holly 139; from Holly to Bay City 56; from B. City to Port Huron (say) 150; total to P. Huron from Minneapolis 812. From Port Huron to Toronto 170; to Montreal from T'o 333; From M. to Sherbrooke 97; to H. 17; to Waterville 6; to Island Pond 37; to Portland, Me. 149: to Peake's Island and back, two trips, 12: to Boston from P. 111: to N. Y. from B. 236—total from Port Huron to New York 1169.
From N. Y. to Dunkirk 462; from D. to Cleveland 143; from C. to Gallion 80; from Gallion to Indianapolis (say) 175; from Indianapolis to Louisville 109; from Louisville to—Home 1387. Grand total, 4638.
On my return I found that the County jail had been burnt in my
absence by two prisoners—Ivy & Cole, and that a crowd had assembled
I have concluded to try to keep a journal for this year,
Years ago I used to note down the daily marvels; but becoming tired
of the dull task, I quit it in partial disgust.
On Monday last, (Dec. 30th, 1861,) died in this County, William Huffman, aged, as is supposed, about 69 years, and John Love, about 38 or 40. Mr. Huffman's funeral took place yesterday, J. L. Scarborough officiating as minister on the occasion.
This morning I took a stroll out S. W. in the woodland, over a walk, which I have lately cut and cleaned out, for the benefit of exercise and solitary thinking and study. Yesterday with a hatchet I cut off the boughs which interfered with free locomotion. I read in this morning's walk Burns's address to his old mare Maggie—and going after dinner, around by the Male Academy, to the same retreat, I read Burns's Life, prefixed to his Works.
At night while at Lucas's, Dr. Lewis gave us an amusing account
of a trip made by him and Dan Comfort last Thursday night, from here
to Duck Hill, in Carroll County. They left here about dark, on horseback,
a “cloud foul with rain,” was rapidly rising, and they had gone
but a short distance, when it commenced pouring, with wind, thunder and
When daylight came, they found themselves half a mile from the house they were seeking. They had travelled for hours in a circle. “Old Gould” and myself met them at Tinner Thompson's as we were coming from the tan-yard.
This evening John W. Goss, a native of Trumbull County, Ohio,
called on me and stated that last Spring he wrote a letter to a brother
in Ohio, stating that he couldn't do much here, and owing to the
troubled state of the times he would like to get back again to Ohio:
that if the North was for abolishing slavery he was opposed to it, but
if they were preserving the Union, he was with them: that several persons
This letter was opened and copied by the postmaster (Sprawls) at Durant, shown to the Vigilance Committee, and Goss consequently arraigned, through the interference of A. M. West, (whom Goss went to Jackson to see,) the matter was disposed of favorably to the accused, but at the same time West advised him “as a friend” to change his place of residence. He accordingly went to Bankston, Choctaw County; but Jim Haynes, from Holmes, having come through Choctaw, making speeches in praise of State Treasury notes, spoke in private to the discredit of Goss, and he again deemed it prudent to migrate.
After supper Alice and myself walked over my favorite walk, the new moon shining dimly. At night read Macaulay's Hampden.
The autumn and winter (thus far) have been unmatched by anything of the sort now recollected. September dry, October rather wet, November clear, sunny, pleasant, December warm, clear, sunny, no rain, no cold worth naming.
At night was at Lucas's—Dr. Lewis there, Henry Gray turned up today.
Today it rained—Dickerson came in from B. T. Clark's, stayed
till after dinner. John Riley elected member of the Board of Police
over Jno. W. Wood, 44 to 35. Ellis, quoting Tamborine's expression,
says, “Great ssitementssitement
It rained hard late at night.
Old man Fusley was here, who spoke of conversations last night,
and to-day, with Henry Gray on the state of the nation. He represents
Gray as saying that the demagogues have ruined the country, that things
are not going on right, and that Jeff Davis is the first king, & c. Bill
Gray suddenly fell dead a few days ago.
P. said that
Rode with P. to Standard's and reached home after sunset. Heard much hurrahing just before reaching town—whisky making itself heard.
Read Macaulay's Hallam.
A special Term of the Circuit Court of Attala County, under Judge Cothran was held today. Little business was transacted today.
Ivy, for burning the jail, was sent to penitentiary for ten years. Old. Cole's cases were to have been dismissed on his paying costs. He concluded to plead guilty and “swear out.” News of Zollicoffer's defeat came about the 25th. He was killed last Sunday, the 19th, at Fishing Creek, near Somerset, Ky. He is said to have mistaken a regiment of the enemy for his own.
Lieut. Col. David S. Comfort died at Jackson, Tenn. on Saturday last, the 1st Inst., and was buried today.
For a week nearly it has rained, and continued cloudy nearly all the time. I walked to Yockanookany bridge and back today.
Wall staid here last night. Said he was born in Chenango Co., N. Y. His parents died in Page Co. Iowa. He had studied under Alex. Campbell, at Bethany, Va.
Ike Dean came and staid till near night, from before dinner.
We had a fine rain in afternoon, the first good one we have had
at this place since about the 1st of June. Al & H--y went to Ellis's,
and stayed till morning of 1st Sept.
Vascal failed to come up at night for first time since they began to give milk.
This should have been our Circuit Court Term, but cedat toga
armis. Dickerson here awhile P. M. Rain again today. H. killed 2
rabbits and a squirrel.
Walked out beyond Burnley place A. M. along with Lucas & Simpson who were on horseback—misty—am reading Alison's account of Peninsular War.
Walked tonight and last night with “Hun” S--y & “Pooce” to “big oak”—was at Lucas's awhile talking over the news—egg-nogg prepared by “Qu.”
Old man Kimbrough (John) died today about 3 o'clock, of fever.
He had just lost 6 likely negroes of the same disease. Whist and
checkers at “Starr's.”
A good soaking rain this morning—read the stormings of Cindad Rodrigo and Badagos, and other incidents of Peninsular War.
Walk after supper with Lindsay, who insists that Richmond, Ky. is in Clay Co. Was at Lucas's where was Dr. Logan, comments on the news from war.
Old man Beacham here yesterday, giving by way of credit on his own, a note on Sam & Frank Jennings—“going to make 500 bushels of sweet potatoes”—“Hun” sick with cholera morbus last night—a little French Brandy operated like a charm.
Rode out in afternoon with Lucas in buggy as far as Hurricane Creek on Natchez Trace—myriads of large ox-flies. L. decapitated a whole swarm of them—the oak tree which struck out its maimed limb in night against L. as he was going home from Lodge—Stopped as we returned, at Simpson's—Nathan sick.
Rode out to Harlow's sale, with Lucas in buggy—sale of land, stock, furniture & c.
Am reading the chapter in Allison devoted to the War of 1812 with Great Britain, and comparing it with Brackenridge, Hale, Peter Parley, Goodrich & Frost.
Jno. Wilson & Shaler at war-demonstrations of fire-arms, Jno. with pistol, S. with double-barreled shot-gun.
Bruce and Jno. Kimbro' at Lucas's at night.
At night was at Lucas's where was Lewis, who had like me, come
Went with Lucy & Mary this morning after grapes, out East, along the old field beyond Baccus's. Found one vine with sundry clusters—
War of 1812—Allison, Brackenridge et al.
Harlow had a sale of books at the Court House—windy and rainy— at night a regular equinoctial storm—reminding me of the 19th August, 1848.
It rained nearly all day, with a heavy wind from N. E., E., & S. E.—Harlow eat dinner with us—had a good fire to dry himself by, as he was very wet.
Last night it rained all night, and the wind blew furiously. The wind this morning S. W. P. M. clear & pleasant.
Jeff Davis's Thanksgiving Day for recent Confederate victories.
Read Alison's account of O'Connell's Irish Rebellion & Chartist disturbances of 1848.
At night was at Dr. Lewis's an hour or two. Cool at night.
Cool in the morning. Alison's account of Bristol riots, Reform Bill, & c.
P. M. Wm. Buzbee from militia came home sick, and established himself here—he is down with measles.
Cool, autumnal day—went with Alice (P. M.) a grape-hunting, out East, and down to Yocky swamps, thence home by Adams's place.
Read Alison's acc't of Bony's Prussian Campaign—coolish— got Lewis to come up and see Buzbee—Dovers' Powders.
Simon got me to draw writings between him and Sternberger—depositions in the Denson case at Court-House about the Tom Cottrell negroes sold by Flanagan. At night was at Lewis's awhile.
Rainy today—old Mrs. Reuben Sanders died Sunday night.
Lucas brot. up a paper from Jackson announcing a great battle at Sharpsburg, Md.—rainy—Jno. Sutherland and “Orderly” Semmes, from Madison, at Simon's store—down on Tupper—said he would sell out to “Feds,” if they should come along next winter.
Dr. Ed Roby died yesterday. I was at Lucas's awhile at night—
read over Dunn's stump speech in Jim Wallace's “News.” Practised law
Rainy this morning—news of battle at Sharpsburg, Md.
Am reading Rutzen & Dresden campaigns.
Nihil.
Mrs. Lewis told me of Rosencrantz's attack on a portion of Price's
army at Iuka—rainy—at Steve Wilson's—he showed me a letter from
“Fonze,” in which Abner & Jesse Mays, & Wm. Barnes are stated to have
been killed at Iuka, & “Art” Bill Dodd & Baccus wounded.
P. M. walked out west with Al after grapes, huckleberries & c.—
pine knots—old field covered with pines—beyond Jackson's.
Bond's Battles of Dresden, Leipsic, & c. Dickerson here at dinner— egg-nogg. At Lucas's awhile at night—walk at night with Al over by Wartrous's old place—rabbit & c.
Very pleasant. Wm. Buzbee left this P. M. Parson Fred Harman died today.
Weather at summer heat—boys electioneering.
Alison's Hist'y Eu. vol. 4, conclusion.
Cloudy A. M. Walked after breakfast out to Price's—fine lot
of grapes—P. walked back through woods North of Mosby's & widow
Wallace's—read concluding c[h]ap. in 4th Alison—also Webster's
speech delivered at Richmond Oct. 5, 1840.
Was at Lucas's awhile at night.
A clear, and hot day—regular summer weather. At night went with
Lucas, Perry Porter & Beacham out to the Burnley old place about 11
o'clock P. M. On our return Tom Sallis overtook us, riding a mule that
falling, ducked him in the Creek. Tom told us the vote at Multona.
Before this we had been twice at Wilson's—“Stanback” brot. out his
jug of Peach and treated us.
Walked, after breakfast, down to the Wallace Branch, with Dave Lindsay—met, near Mosby's, old Bally Allen, bringing returns from Bluff Spring. The following is the vote of Attala:
Circuit Judge—Hudson 668, Dyer 284: Dist. Atty. Hemphill 619,
Wood 136: James Campbell 133: Harlow 36: Probate Judge Scarborough 642,
Rode with Jeff Jinkins in buggy out the other side of Mrs. Lile's and walked back—stopped at Price's—very warm.
Old man Beacham eat dinner with us yesterday—Hawkins's Texas beef— very warm—laid in a supply of summer clothing at Riley's— 2 coats, 2 pairs of pants.
This afternoon it rained, with a cold wind from N. W. A sudden change. At night was at Lucas's and after at Lewis's. Cool—cold—
A drizzling rain or mist in the morning, with cool N. W. wind. Hunting pine knots with Sally, “Mame” & Pooce back of Lucas's field.
Walked (P. M.) with Steve Wilson out by Baccus's, into old field,
thence through the woods, “around and about.” News came today that
Walked at night with Dave Lindsey down by Mosby's.
Walked with Lindsey around by Mrs. Thompson's—pleasant, sunny
weather—red haws—further from battle at Corinth. Met Col. Donald
down by Jim Anderson's. At night walked with D. H. L.—“they be beans.”
Sunny, Cool and excellent weather. At Price's a few minutes in the morning—got some salt (8 lbs.)—grapes at the spring—at Lucas's at night.
Started early for Kimbrough's with Lucas in his buggy, coolish— No appraisement because appraisers failed to arrive—an excellent dinner of mutton and sweet potatoes.
Went to steam-mill—ruins of old Phoenix—Jo. Th. still running the corn-mill—shoe-shop. Jim Matthews reading to crowd an old paper (Chronicle) of Aug. 1851. Wasson's tan-yard and thence home.
At Lucas's at night.
Clear and pleasant—though coolish. Wm. P. Andrews, Capt. of
Co. I, 37th Miss. Reg't was killed at Corinth in the late battle there—
Bill Evans wounded—Jack Dehart killed—Dr. Hughes thinks Amzi Meek
nagur.
A lovely day—militia gathering—town full of people—Mid.
Pool and Henry Fancher called in, and imbibed a small quantity of
“tafia.” Bill Buzbee here at dinner.
Very pleasant—Bragg's great victory over Buell, the main talk— At night walked out to Price's—pine knot fire—his account of Botters's shooting Lunsford—West and his crowd of regulators in 1847, the Court House surrounded—Lundsford's flight, the pursuit, & c. & c.
Lovely starlight night.
Walked with Frank Irving this morning—via Sam Young's, through the wo[o]ds to Bluff Spring road—along rail-road to old pine field.
Grecian history today. Qu. went to Frank Irving's with all except H--y. Walked after supper down to twin oak, falling in with Herring, & coming back with Bill Meek.
Clear and lovely day—commenced again with children, by lessons in the morning, before school.
Probate Court—Rosamonds here—great railroad accident, near Duck Hill—35 or 40 killed—Old man Herring at Lucas's at night.
Started early this morning for Kimbro's, going by way of Wasson's and Crow's—at the latter place a jury was summoned to try a case of alleged lunacy—(Betsy) - thence by Zeke Veazey's to Kimbrough's with Jesse & his mule in buggy—first rate dinner of turkey and other good things—appraisement of property—reached home 1/2 past 7—
Clear and pleasant.
Clear—dry—bracing. Jeff Jinkins & M'N Dickerson at Lucas's at night. Went with Henry after pine out east.
Yesterday Liz White was married—cool but dry and pleasant. Rode with Lucas over to Rimmer's—Judge Ross there—bacon sides—
Clear & pleasant—Child of Dolph Clark's died—Wm. F. Woods accidentally shot his brother Dr. Wo[o]ds, on Monday last. Harlow's children here—Bob Mosby at work on their teeth.
This morning the wind having risen last night, was blowing
furiously from the N. or a little E. of N. and seemed very damp. Soon
it rained a little, but directly the rain ceased, but the wind blew
all day very cold, and all night too. Seaborn Mims came in—talked
Bally Allen were carousing at the back room of Galloway's
office, on peach brandy. Harlow eat dinner here—Weatherly, Jeff
Jinkins, John Cone and Ras. Boyd here P. M. Ras. borrowed Coleridge's
Lay Sermons—Lucas told me of some elegant remark made to him by Dan
Comfort because he wouldn't tell Dan who had corn to sell.
At night was at Dr. Lewis's—his family mostly gone to Louisville— wind keen and piercing cold from the North.
A cold day—wind strong from the North. Jeff Jinkins came down
and stayed awhile from Joab's—he eat dinner here—Went with A.
down to Yockanookany—going by Baccus's—by the grape-vine—the
muscadine vines—by the woods that skirt the old field on the north
side—by the mound—to the beech trees with the letters carved on
the bark—thence to the dogwood bower—thence via the pen, the scaly-barked
hickory, the mashed hickory, and sweet-gum to mouth of Hurricane—
thence across Hurricane, through cane and briers to Jackson's gate—
by the A's beech tree & home. Met three of Munson's negroes, with
Bruce Harlow.
Clear and cold—yesterday morning there was ice. Frost this morning.
Went a-hunting with Frank Irving—killed a squirrel apiece. Warm and pleasant.
Warm—pleasant—sunny—Harlows left for Arkansas, on Wednesday the 29th. Henry Dean & Alex Chestnut went with him—
At night went with Al. around by Simon's, Ben Tipton's, Baccus's, Hall's down towards the branch—Kindled up a large fire by a stump— thence around home by the Lucas field & Davis place. Clear moonlight night. Pain in my shoulders.
A warm, clear, pleasant day—Jared P. Walker died this morning— old Mrs. Cottrell died yesterday—At night walked over to Price's— bright moonlight.
Ike Dean here—Dickerson also, awhile—tumblers—took a walk with the children (S. M. L.) out east in the woods—red haws.
Qu. 36 years old today—change in weather—cool and windy.
Henry started to school this morning to “Frank.”
Last night went over to the Court House where were several members
of the Board of Police, Jim Hubbert among the number—the war, exemptions,
militia & c. discussed. Joab said he would like to know what the Legislature
meant by legalizing the Assessment of Texas. Some one suggested
that the word was taxes and not Texas. “So it is,” said Joab, surprised
Today Stephen E. said that Dick Payne was here yesterday, and that some one (F. Zollicoffer) congratulated him for killing Lownsbury, and said we ought to have commenced killing them years ago—that he gloried in his spunk, & c.
In the fore part of the day, warm and smoky, with indications of rain. Col. Hanna sent for me and Jim Anderson to go up there—started about 1/2 past 2 P. M. with old man Presley—A change to cold suddenly appeared—wind from North—Hanna's negro boy Steve overtook us—
We left Presley at fork of the woods 6 miles from town, crossed Yocky at Shumaker's old mill—before this we rode back a mile through the old field searching for a lost substitute for saddle blanket— reached Hanna's about dark—passed old Alf Robinson in swamp. At H's found Alston and Dr. Hughes. H. quite sick—“migratory rheumatism.”
Very windy & cold at night—slept with Alston.
Clear, cold and windy today—walked after breakfast over to
Alston's through the woods. Jim Anderson Bob”, the sorrel pony obtained
from Campbell—stirrup-leather pestered me no little—met Jeff Reynolds,
Ship, Busby (Bill) and a considerable crowd bound homewards—reached
home after dark.
After supper Steve Wilson came down and wished me to write out a
Being sore and affected with cold, I kept my room most of today. At night I was up at Wilson's—old man lying in bed very restless. Dr. Lewis was there. Today quite cold. Robinson sent for me.
Started this morning with my gun (to kill any chance game,) and went an foot to Robinson's (over 10 miles distant,) going by Munson's, David Knox's, Steve Rimmer's, Henry Jamison's and widow Keith's— found R. in bed, badly bruised, eyes almost out—told me his version of the Wilson difficulty. Stayed there about 2 hours and walked home.
Jim Chestnut was there a-guarding Robinson—saw Woodson O'Briant
a-ploughing in wheat, who gave me directions—lost my way once or
twice—reached home about dark, very tired.
So very sore from my yesterday's tramp, that I can scarcely walk, sat by the fire most of the day—Morning keenly cold—day clear and sunny. George J. Wilson died today about 10 o'clock.
Clear and cold—funeral of Wilson. Dr. Covington in town. At
night was at Dr. Lewis's—Ike Dean came after medicine for Barton,
the Norwegian. Dr. Suttle called this afternoon, and also old man Biggs—
Cool, but clear and pleasant—rode the sorrel pony to Hanna's— trees and woods in their glory. Hiram Suber at H's at night— engaged in writing or copying a will.
This morning Alston and Spiva were at Hanna's as subscribing witnesses to his will—cloudy and misty—went from H's to Multona Springs—a pleasant ride—Hamilton and Jesse Davis there in waiting— bought some few things out of the store, e. g. soap, cravat, hair-oil, perfumery & c.—rode on by the mill in the drizzling rain to Wasson's where I stayed till morning. Queen was at Mrs. Hines's, having been thrown from a mule and severely injured an Sunday last.
Arose about 1/2 past 4, this morning—foggy—fine pine-knot fire this morning and last night—read Marion's prediction that the people from the instigation of demagogues and a love of a change, would be led astray, and bloody civil wars ending in despotism, follow.
After breakfast, rode to Burkettsville, meeting Wm. Cole who had
just come with Lucas from the Station, and falling in with Wilkinson
who rode with me to Rocky Point. Bought the children some school
books and rode with Bigbee to his house, where I got dinner. Major
Jams Walker was there, very feeble and puny, with all the symptoms
Wrote a deed conveying two negroes, and two mules, and a wagon to Mrs. Malinda. M. Bigbee—he wanted it written—suggested the form of a deed of gift. I wrote it out—he signed it in my presence, I acting as witness—he acknowledged it to be his act and deed, and I saw him deliver it to Mrs. Bigby—and with it he said he delivered the property, which he said was already in her possession and subject to her control.
I left about 2 o'clock, coming home by way of Musselwhites— magnificent autumnal scenery along the route among the hills and woods.
Fell in with Sam Young near town who told me of the Perryville fight. At night was at Lucas's where were several persons.
Pleasant weather. Qu. suffering from a fall met with Tuesday morning last. Clements here at night, camping near Lucas's.
Warmish—went to the mill in the morning—a quarter of good
beef from Donner—at Lucas's at night. Carlisle (parson) and Albert
Mitchell there and others (
Loyd preached Harvey Williams's funeral sermon at Baptist Church— girls went, I didn't—soldiers brought forward on front seat.
Considerable crowd here—Probate Court—was kept busy nearly
Jno. M. Robinson examined before Justices Aldecot and Jno. Richardson—Lewis Galloway, Isaac Scarborough & Bill Thompson principally witnesses for the State—Sim (young preacher,) for defence. Campbell spoke about an hour before supper and two hours after for R. I spoke about an hour for prosecution. Bound over in sum of $10,000.
Rained at night.
Newspapers at night at Lucas's—day clear, pleasant and cooler.
Coolish today—clear—windy—was at Lucas's a few minutes at night, and at Lewis's for some time, when Beacham came in—talk of the war—of its probable duration—of the course of events the coming winter—of tan-yards and exemptions.
Clear, coolish and windy—was at Lucas's at night—Lewis & Wasson's sons there—beautiful starlight night.
This morning rose before day—built a fire—took a walk with
Henry, up by Steve Wilson's, by Pierce Dickens' old place—along the
ridge—down by Baccus's—by Ben Tipton's, home. At 8 o'clock mounted
sorrel, blaze faced pony and started for Durant—went by way of Atwood's—
met Jim Sims and Thad Day with cart & 2 young girls—met Peter—fell
in with Wm. Allen who told me that Mason Haltum, one of his neighbors,
who had been off with the militia, he thought would die today.
Reached Sultan's, on bank of Big Rock, 16 miles from Kosciusko, at 1/4 past 11. Fellow named Graham there—Sultan refused to part with any specie, although he had repeatedly promised it to Lucas—he must keep it to buy salt & c. Eat dinner there, which consisted of very mean corn broad, the meanest sort of rye (wry?) coffee, good milk, good butter, good eggs, and sweet potatoes badly cooked by boiling. The eggs, butter and milk made amends for everything else.
After dinner we walked to Durant, two miles, through Big Black Swamp—Sprawls—Mitchell—Denton—soldier guard.
On our return Graham and Sultan left me to hunt “permeter”
(palmetto)—fell in with Raney's wife, a Mrs. Williams, a lad and
lass, who were out a-hunting “scaly-barks.” In going to Durant we met
Jabez Weeks, coming from there, who told us that he wouldn't care if
all the soldiers threw down their arms, quit and came home, they were
treated so mean. He was much excited. Negro girl and white girl
ferried me back across the river—got my pony out of the stable,
Pindars, in company with John Mosby. Heard Pup before I saw him,
a-running a rabbit. Rocco along—reached home just at the close of
daylight, half past 6—very tired.
Clear, beautiful, starlight night—On my way saw a man, woman & children gathering hickory nuts away down in a gully.
A clear, beautiful sunrise, and most lovely day. Walked (P. M.) with S--y, Hun & Pooce to Yockanookany at mouth of Hurricane—dry leaves all over the ground—green Hollies—Harry a-fishing.
Clear, but for smoke, woods on fire in many places about—very dry—at night was at Lewis's after supper.
Stayed at home (A. M.) and read and noted law memoranda—Smoky—
At night was at Lucas's. L. & Jno. Wasson having just returned from
Jackson—abundance of talk—news of war & c.
Cool—dry—smoky—delightful time to sit by fire, read and take
At Lucas's at night, Albert Mitchell there—newspapers & c.
Very shrewd and nipping air last night—cool and windy today—
cold, in fact. Rose before first f[l]ush of dawn—built fires—looked
out abroad on the face of sky—after breakfast read Prentiss's Memoirs,
and his contested election speech therein.
Started this morning with Steve Wilson, in his buggy, for Mrs. Kimbrough's—cool, keen, sharp air—buggy tire loose and rattling— poured water on it—fell in with Asbury, Tom Wasson & Jno. Jr., the two former of whom went by Wasson's to dodge the cavalry whom we met near old man Kelly's, & who camped last night near Fullilove's, on Black Creek. Jno. Jr. went along with us—a crowd there—corn sold for 1.57 to 1.65—cows $42.—old man Boyette with his pindars and cider—Pool there just from his militia camp—as we came home found the woods all afire.
Fires all around—very dry and disagreeably smoky—Was at night for a few minutes at Lucas's.
Smoke very thick, and troublesome to the eyes—children “Pooce”
Last night we had a most grateful shower, which put out the fires,
dissipated the smoke, and cooled and freshened earth and air—coolish
today—excitement about Yankees having reached Grenada—Was at Lucas's
awhile at night, and then at Lewis's—Bailey Guess told me today
that Maj. James Walker died yesterday at Bigby's aet. 75.
Walked with Ellis out to his house, thence back by Mrs. Davis's place home.
It rained nearly all day—the first rain we have had for many a day, of any magnitude. The fires in the woods which lately caused such destruction of fences, & c. & curtained the heavens with smoke, are now thoroughly quenched.
After dinner today went with Lucas a-hunting, riding “old John,” out beyond Webb's, and scouring the woods between there and Roby's place—was at the “Huffman Spring,” near which I met Roby & Hite on horseback. Bill Buzby stayed here.
Today it rained again—I have just re-read Memoirs of Prentiss— At Lucas's at night—Shrock, Jo Thompson, Mathis et al there.
Cold, wet and very unpleasant weather. Excitement about Army
Very cold, rode in buggy drawn by “old John” to Kimbrough's—
attempted division of property—Conly, Riley et al. there. Clear
and sunny. Went to Ben T. Clark's via Jim Mathis's—eat a first rate
supper at Clark's—then went to Wasson's where we stayed all night—
pine knots—checkers—Shakspeare—Plutarch & c. & c. Very cold.
About 10 o'clock this morning we left for town, I driving the
buggy, John riding Ernest's pony—Clear, sunny, and pleasant, but an
“eager and a ripping air.” Reached town about 1 o'clock P. M. I eat
dinner at Lucas's. P. M. walked with Ellis out in the direction of
his house. At night was at Lucas's where I found Ike Scarborough.
Clear and cold in the morning. After dinner Lucas, (who had been delayed in order to be vaccinated,) and myself rode in his buggy drawn by lazy “old John,” to John Ashley's below Attalaville. We left town at 3 o'clock (about) and rode to Bluff Spring, meeting Henderson & John, just back from Va. Admired the two roadside sycamores—got to Ashley's about 1/2 past 6, after blundering about for some time in the dark.
After breakfast rode to widow Ashley's, falling in with Bob Clark
and circuit-rider Smith, on the way—then we went to parson Fred
Lucas and Bill Kimbrough here—went a-squirrel hunting in the evening—clear & pleasant—at mouth of Hurricane.
Rec'd a box of Law-Books, bo't for me by Lucas, of Morey, in Jackson, 13 vols. of Miss. Reports, making a full set, with what I had before.
Cloudy, with signs of rain—today Jim Ellington was telling us that he saw a man named Lee kill another named Cook, in Hinds Co., Miss. on the last Saturday of January, 1830. The quarrel was about entering land—boll, 40 to the pound—Cook, a relation of the Lindsays, “Tol & Vines”—Lee was hung, having previously been arrested by a man named Brister, “on suspicion.”
Windy, cloudy, and warm—went to the woods with A--e—cut letter “N” on holly—went to mouth of Hurricane, on Yockanookany. A got a quantity of sweet gum.
Still warm, cloudy and windy with indications of rain. Walked with children to mouth of Hurricane, on Yock'y—sweet gum—hogs in swamp, dry leaves,—holly-trees green and fresh with a few red berries.
Very windy this morning—Jesse Bates sent me a lot of meal, which the wind freely frolicked with—
Probate Court—hard rain in afternoon, with strong N. W. wind— row at night at Bill Young's between Sam Jennings & old Jeff Reynolds— was at Lucas's awhile at night, where were Jim Mathis & Dr. Lewis.
Clear and pleasant, after the rain—received a lot of meal from Ben T. Clark—99 eggs from Perry, for Christmas. At Lucas's awhile at night where Harriss, Riley, Conly & Clark were making out their report of division of property belonging to Kimbrough's estate— all went up to Ike Scarborough's—thence back to Lucas's where we sat and talked till near 11 o'clock.
Clear, pleasant, sunny, windy and coolish—Bigbee (Wm. M.) bro't Wingo, Cagle & Guess to town, as witnesses of Maj. James Walker's will; but Mingo would not testify that the old man was of sound and disposing memory. So the will failed to be established, and letters of administration were granted to B.
Clear, sunny and pleasant—read Rich'd H. Dana's poetical criticism, or rather, his criticism of the poets, in the morning; and after dinner went “a-squirreling” as Ras. Boyd (whom I met calling up hogs in the woods,) termed it,—killed two.
At night was at Lucas's with Dr. Lewis awhile—afterwards came home and told tales to the children.
Rose this morning just before the first streak of day—air “eager and nipping,” saw the “waning moon” just rising at day-dawn, or a few minutes before—got Henry up, and he and I started on a walk to Mrs. T. L. Thompson's and back home by Pierce Dickens' old place, along the ridge, down by Baccus's, and home.
After breakfast took a delightful walk down by Mrs. Meek's—thence
to Shoat old place, and back home by Price's old field—weather delicious,
clear, mild, sunny and life-inspiring. Had a glass of egg-nogg this
morning—had a turkey with condiments, (as Tom Corwin's landlady said)
for dinner—After dinner took my gun and went hunting with Al,
killing one squirrel—she captured a cargo of sweet-gum, on the banks
of Yockanookany—At night John Hunt stayed here—
This is my birthday and wife and children have been helping me to celebrate it, thus attaching me
Today has been as faultless as any we ever see at this season in this clime.
Another most lovely day—some business in the Probate Court relating to the confirmation of division of personalty, and application for partition of lands.
At night was at Lucas's, where was Dr. Lewis—Jim Presley eat dinner here with us.
A gloriously pleasant day—walk in the morning out west, around by Mrs. Jackson's—returning met Frank Olive with Lucas. D. came home with me, and recounted his quarrel with Atwood yesterday, or day before.
A. and I took a long walk out west—across railroad, thro' old pine thicket into field west of Jackson's, as far as the Ross field— got home a little after sunset.
I have lately read Prentiss's and also Webster's addresses on
this anniversary, also the other elegant extracts from Everett, Dewey,
Pierpont, Greenwood et al. on the same subject. Went a-squirreling.
Weather warm and pleasant—Yesterday Henry & Prew. Brown came here to consult me on a will case (Wm. Brown's will)—At night Henry, Alice and myself walked over to Price's and back. Hathorn eat dinner here.
Negroes a-hauling wood—dull—some dancing at night—Walked with children around by Academy & Campbell's home.
Negroes a-hauling and cutting wood—threatening rain—At Lucas's at night where were Col. Wasson and Bev. Hines—family all gone from there. At night it rained.
Rainy in morning cleared off P. M.—then shower and wind—then clear again. Dickerson eat dinner here. Clear, beautiful starlit night.
Clear and pleasant—walked with “Hun” & “Pooce” out to the other side of Hall's—met Dan Comfort who recounted his horse trouble with Bustamaule—Dave Comfort's funeral sermon preached by Mr. Alexander— the girls (except Jenny) and I walked out to the Shoat old place, thro' the woods, and along on the ridge home by Price's. P. at work a-shoe-making.
At night was at Lucas's, where were John Toler, Jo Thompson, Ben Clark and Sweatt—also Dr. Lewis of course—talk of the Mabry money which Casey was charged with stealing. It rained as I was coming home.
Hun's birthday—she is seven years old—turkey for dinner—
old man Fletcher here—coolish—finished cutting up our wood-pile.
At night was at old man Allen's, where was old Andy Addkison who gave us many a tale of the “yearly” times—told of a man named Hunter, a school-teacher, who was hung in Yazoo County—hogs eating his head— some man gathered up the head, put it in a nail-cask, and buried it. Bob Perkins and his shooting the horse, while the rider was pacing him along the street—of Kosciusko, at an “yearly” day—the Regulators— Tom Potter et al.—the springs, reed-brakes and cane—of old Choate and the suspicions told by Sugg—of the hurricane which swept along the Conn's Ferry road about 1833.
Did not feel well—head-ache—old man Fletcher poking about on his crutch—a sharp, frosty morning—
Staid about the house most of the day—children hauling wood, which is now all cut up, on a wagon—just at night a hard rain set in.
It rained hard last night, and all day today. Jim Mathis here. At night I was at Lucas's when Nathan Murff came in—warrant for old man Bentley. Alice went yesterday to Mrs. McKinney's and stayed till
Clear and pleasant—read till 12 o'clock and then walked with Henry out by Mrs. Jackson's, and beyond, through the old fields.
Today old man Biggs and Sam Jennings had a quarrel about Biggs's sons going to the war, and the war generally. So Fletcher arrested the old man, and they started to take him to Brookhaven or Jackson. They stopped at Teague's, where Biggs gave them the slip at night, and reached here at about 2 o'clock A. M. having walked from Teague's—
Old man Bentley was tried for stealing his step-daughters' (Lucy
Bronson Arnold's) negroes, Oldecop presiding. Bentley discharged—
Bentley and wife left before breakfast, going to Greenwold's— conjux and children nearly all sick yesterday and today—was at Lucas's at night where he expressed his admiration of King Lear—especially of the Fool therein. At our house today he looked at the Stratford Gallery. Mother and children nearly all sick.
A clear, cool, bright, sunny day—in the morning read King Lear
suffered from lameness of the back—children sick from Cholera morbus.
Read Duychink's Cyclopedia of American literature—lameness of back. Old parson Kelly died this morning. Reynard A. Woolley died on Friday last, Jan'y 2nd, having become crushed by a log on a cart, against a post. Wash Hudspeth died recently at Werrona—it rained awhile today—cool.
Cloudy—warm—rained heavily at night—drew declaration in the case Bentley & Wife vs Murff & Wife, for slander.
At night was at Lucas's, where the news was read and discussed— am suffering these days from pain in the back and hip.
After the heavy rain of last night, it has cleared off very
Gregory Jim killed in battle at Murfreesboro.
I learned from Lucas the other night that “old Enos” had lost $500. which he had in his pocket, wrapped up in a mink-skin, consisting of Confederate money.
Last night I was at Lucas's awhile—about the buttons the preacher saw on the guests at a wedding in Arkansas, “regular, irregular & defective—about many people treating time as money, and paying their debts in that currency—
A beautiful, starlight night was last night. Today the weather is clear, beautiful, sunny. Alexander preached from
Lucas was telling a tale last night to the effect that Joab
accused old Tom Ford of selling sugar at 4 bits a pound. Ford denied
it, and appealed to Jim Taylor, by whom he proved it was only 2 bits.
Joab replied that it was one half dirt, and that made the sugar cost
4 bits. My back quite lame today.
Clear, beautiful, sunny day. As Wood said of yesterday, “Like
Italy.” At night was at Lucas's awhile—today accounts from Battle
at Murfreesboro' representing sundry persons from this County killed,
came to hand.
Cloudy—hauled wood from fence to house—Jeff Riley here at
Stayed at home at night.
Windy (S. E.)—warm—threatening rain—it did rain last night, a little—this afternoon it rained the whole time, and also at night— a perfect deluge.
A cold, wet and unpleasant day—about noon it snowed briskly for awhile—At night went down to Lucas's but no one was at home—all was dark and I returned.
This morning the ground was covered with snow—a cold day— stayed in the house and read Don Quixote. At night was at Lucas's— he and Lewis there—rest at John Wasson's wedding, who married Martha (“Puss”) Smith yesterday—talk about snakes a-freezing—animals hibernating & c. Clear & cold at night.
This morning just about sunrise the thermometer, which I hung out last night on “the Big Oak” indicated 20° above zero. Clear, sharp, cold—went to Lucas's in the morning and got 78 star candles for $7.15—55 cts. a pound—13 lbs—
Meyer killed an ox, and Henry attended and got some beef, which
Read Don Quixote in the morning, after children had read their three chapters in the Testament—P. M. walked with Henry through the woods down to Mrs. Treat's old place 2 miles west of town.
After my return walked with Lucas around by Roby's field via the Tipton houses—saw where somebody had been stealing wood off the Ross land.
Last night it rained—today it was rainy and unpleasant—cold— Probate Court—but few persons present.
Cold—Probate Court in session—Henry Brown gave me a long account relative to his brother's will (Wm's.)
Letter from Sam Young today contains information of who were killed out of his company in the Murfreesboro' battle, namely—Wash Holloway, Bob McAdams, Andrew Lawrence, Jim Gregory, Sam Burt, Garland Bullock, Dick Mallet, Capt. Jno. Miller, Will Ashley, Burdine—15 were wounded among whom several were expected to die.
Old Fletcher hunting lost money $4.70.
Yesterday we rec'd from old man Herring 4 hogs weighing 560 & costing 20 c a pound—$112. which we paid for (partly) in salt at 60° a pound.
Lucas and I went to Bigbee's—travelled with Flanagan & Campbell to the Atwood Fork—Cone, Jim Williams, Flowers & Jno. Adams there—cool at night.
Sale at Major Walker's—rode over to the former residence of the Major in company with Jim Williams, and “the balance” of our crowd, a considerable crowd there—fire outside the house, and a few women sitting and standing around—left for home soon after 12 o'clock M.— on the way L. pointed out a sugar maple tree in Pookter Swamp—L. tried his net on a flock of partridges, but caught only one.
Rain today & last night—filed petition in Probate Court relative to contesting Wm. H. Brown's Will. Saw Sternberger who is just back from Shelbyville, Tenn. he stayed at Schorn's while there. Said Aunt Sophia Davidson sent respects, & c.
A warm, damp, drizzly day—very muddy—“Nig Junior” missing—
P. M. walked with Lucas out to the Choate old place, near Coxe's, going
through the woods—talk of trees—of the China trees growing near
the site of the old house. Came back by Price's—along the Ridge—
beautiful green landscape view from Price's house to northward.
Last night I was at Campbell's and saw Hall, (“trader”) from
At night children read “Three Warnings” and “Goody Blake & Harry Gill.”
Cool today—a few flakes of snow fell—copied a number of
D'Israeli's gems into a Book, from old Journal—Steve came in and
sat several hours discoursing
Bentley and Presley here together. Jim Mathis and Shrock, Carlile
and Jack Evans at C. A. Ellis's corner just at dark—quarterly meeting
at Lewis's at night. Fanny Kimbrough, Asbury
Lewis sick for a day or two past with his old side pain.
Epidemic among negroes which Lewis thinks is rheumatism. Rain, rain, rain today—no meeting. Lucas and myself rode on horseback down to Raiford's, crossing at the Fletcher bridge near Fuller's old place— very muddy and wet. “Cousin Phil” there—Stayed till about 8 o'clock, eating supper there. R. spoke of his return from Memphis where he has lately been—of soldiers, war, whisky & cotton—on leaving R's it was foggy—a few minutes after, rainy—then a white light before us— then clear moonlight and cold.
Cold—clear—then cloudy—then rain—At Lucas's at night.
Cold. At Lucas's at night. Coleman here, who said some runaway negroes in Choctaw had come in and reported the woods so full of runaway white men that there was no room for them.
Lucas read to L. and me the captured correspondence of Benjamin et al to Mason and Slidell.
Cold—Snow—sleet—rain—hail. Dickerson here and eat dinner— talk about Dick Woolley who has recently been among the Feds. in Tennessee—
Betsy's calf died last night—Henry skinned it today.
Last night was a dismal one. Snow on the ground—an ice-cold rain a-falling in torrents, and (till bedtime) the wind blowing a gale from the N. E. This morning is cheerless enough—dark, cold, snowy, and a mournful wind. Got up at 1/4 past 4 A. M. and built a fire and read McCosh on the “Method of the Divine Gov't” which I borrowed from Parson Alexander.
Last night was cold—thermometer 20° at sunrise this morning— Was at Lucas's—tale about the falling into Mobile Bay 23 years ago tonight—A column of smoke seen today N. E. of here by myself, Atwood, Durham, Buffkin, et al.
Roads bad, weather cold—Columbus Thompson & Chesley Bell have
lately died—mortality among negroes—
Was at Lucas's at night where was Jesse Kimbrough.
Walked out to Price's this morning and staid till near noon— met Price's wife et al. on the way. “Love” there. Price showed me how to tell good sole-leather—
Came home and eat a good turkey dinner. “Pretty Dooley” here—
Mild weather again—walk (P. M.) with “Pooce” “Hun” and Sally out west
among the pines in the old field. “Gould” here recounting his troubles
with Mrs. Roberts. Lucas to borrow Va