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        <title><emph>The American Fugitive in Europe. Sketches of Places and People Abroad:</emph>
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        <author>Brown, William Wells, 1814?-1884</author>
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            <title type="title page"> The American Fugitive in Europe.  Sketches of Places and People Abroad.  By Wm.  Wells Brown.  With a Memoir of the Author.</title>
            <title type="spine"> Sketches of Places and People Abroad.</title>
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    <front>
      <div1 type="cover">
        <p>
          <figure id="cover" entity="browncv">
            <p>[Cover Image]</p>
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            <p>[Spine Image]</p>
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      </div1>
      <div1 type="frontispiece">
        <p>
          <figure id="frontis" entity="brownfp">
            <p>W. Wells Brown<lb/>[Frontispiece Image]</p>
          </figure>
        </p>
      </div1>
      <div1 type="title page">
        <p>
          <figure id="title" entity="browntp">
            <p>[Title Page Image]</p>
          </figure>
        </p>
      </div1>
      <div1 type="title page verso">
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          <figure id="verso" entity="brownvs">
            <p>[Title Page Verso Image]</p>
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      </div1>
      <titlePage>
        <docTitle>
          <titlePart type="subtitle">THE AMERICAN FUGITIVE IN EUROPE. <lb/>SKETCHES<lb/>
OF<lb/>
PLACES AND PEOPLE ABROAD.</titlePart>
        </docTitle>
        <byline>BY
</byline>
        <docAuthor>WM. WELLS BROWN.</docAuthor>
        <docEdition>WITH<lb/>
A MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR.</docEdition>
        <epigraph>
          <q type="verse" direct="unspecified">
            <lg type="verse">
              <l>“Go, little book, from this my solitude!</l>
              <l>I cast thee on the waters—go thy ways!</l>
              <l>And if, as I believe, thy vein be good,</l>
              <l>The word will find thee after many days.”</l>
              <signed>Southey.</signed>
            </lg>
          </q>
        </epigraph>
        <docImprint><pubPlace>BOSTON:</pubPlace>
<publisher>PUBLISHED BY JOHN P. JEWETT AND COMPANY.</publisher>
<pubPlace>CLEVELAND, OHIO:</pubPlace>
<publisher>JEWETT, PROCTOR &amp; WORTHINGTON</publisher>
<pubPlace>NEW YORK:</pubPlace>
<publisher>SHELDON, LAMPORT &amp; BLAKEMAN.</publisher>
<docDate>1855.</docDate></docImprint>
        <pb id="brownvs" n="verso"/>
        <docImprint><docDate>Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1854, by</docDate>
<publisher>JOHN P. JEWETT &amp; CO.,</publisher>
In the Clerk's Office of the District Court for the District of Massachusetts.</docImprint>
        <docImprint>Stereotyped by<lb/>
HOBART &amp; ROBBINS,<lb/>
New England Type and Stereotype Foundry,<lb/>
BOSTON.</docImprint>
      </titlePage>
      <div1 type="preface">
        <pb id="browniii" n="iii"/>
        <head>PREFACE</head>
        <head>TO THE ENGLISH EDITION.</head>
        <p>WHILE I feel conscious that most of the contents of
those Letters will be interesting chiefly to American
readers, yet I may indulge the hope that the fact of
their being the first production of a Fugitive Slave as
a history of travels may carry with them novelty
enough to secure for them, to some extent, the attention
of the reading public of Great Britain. Most of
the letters were written for the private perusal of a few
personal friends in America; some were contributed to
<hi rend="italics">Fredrick Douglass' Paper</hi>, a journal published in
the United States. In a printed circular sent some
weeks since to some of my friends, asking subscriptions
to this volume, I stated the reasons for its publication:
these need not be repeated here. To those who so
promptly and kindly responded to that appeal, I tender
my most sincere thanks. It is with no little diffidence
<pb id="browniv" n="iv"/>
that I lay these letters before the public; for I am not
blind to the fact that they must contain many errors;
and to those who shall find fault with them on that account,
it may not be too much for me to ask them kindly
to remember that the author was a slave in one of the Southern States of America, until he had attained the age of twenty years; and that the education he has acquired was by his own exertions, he never having had a day's schooling in his life.</p>
        <closer><signed>W.  WELLS BROWN.</signed>
22 CECIL STREET, STRAND,<lb/>
LONDON.</closer>
      </div1>
      <div1 type="note">
        <head>NOTE</head>
        <head>TO THE AMERICAN EDITION.</head>
        <p>During my sojourn abroad I found it advantageous to my
purse to publish a book of travels, which I did under the title of
“Three Years in Europe, or Places I have seen and People I have
met.” The work was reviewed by the ablest journals in Great
Britain, and from their favorable criticisms I have been induced
to offer it to the American public, with a dozen or more additional
chapters.</p>
        <closer><signed> W. W. B.</signed>
<dateline>BOSTON,<date><hi rend="italics"> November</hi>, 1854.</date></dateline></closer>
      </div1>
      <div1 type="contents">
        <pb id="brownv" n="v"/>
        <head>CONTENTS.</head>
        <list type="simple">
          <item>MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR, . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="brown9">9</ref></item>
          <item>CHAPTER I.<lb/>
Departure from Boston—The Passengers—Halifax—The Passage—First Sight of Land—Liverpool, . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="brown35">35</ref></item>
          <item>CHAPTER II.<lb/>
Trip to Ireland—Dublin—Her Majesty's Visit—Illumination of the City—The Birthplace of Thomas Moore—A Reception, . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="brown42">42</ref></item>
          <item>CHAPTER III.<lb/>
Departure from Ireland—London—Trip to Paris—Paris—The Peace Congress: First Day—Church of the Madeleine—Column Vendome—The French, . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="brown51">51</ref></item>
          <item>CHAPTER IV.<lb/>Versailles—The Palace—Second Session of the Congress—Mr. Cobden—Henry Vincent—M. Girardin—Abbe Duguerry—Victor Hugo: his Speech, . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="brown64">64</ref></item>
          <item>CHAPTER V.<lb/>
M. de Toqueville's Grand Soiree—Madame de Toqueville—Visit of the Peace Delegates to Versailles—The Breakfast—Speech-making—The Trianons—Waterworks—St. Cloud—The Fête, . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="brown73">73</ref></item>
          <item>CHAPTER VI.<lb/>
The Tuileries—Place de la Concorde—The Egyptian Obelisk—Palais Royal—Residence of Robespierre—A Visit to the Room in which Charlotte Corday killed Marat—Church de Notre Dame—Palais de Justice—Hotel des Invalides—National Assembly—The Elysee, . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="brown80">80</ref></item>
          <pb id="brownvi" n="vi"/>
          <item>CHAPTER VII.<lb/>
The Chateau at Versailles—Private Apartments of Marie Antoinette—The Secret Door—Paintings of Raphael and David—Arc de Triomphe—Beranger the Poet, . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="brown91">91</ref></item>
          <item>CHAPTER VIII.<lb/>
Departure from Paris—Boulogne—Folkstone—London—George Thompson, Esq., M.P.—Hartwell House—Dr. Lee—Cottage of the Peasant—Windsor Castle—Residence of William Penn—England's First Welcome—Heath Lodge—The Bank of England, . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="brown98">98</ref></item>
          <item>CHAPTER IX.<lb/>
The British Museum—A Portrait—Night Reading—A Dark Day—A Fugitive Slave on the Streets of London—A Friend in the Time of Need, . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="brown113">113</ref></item>
          <item>CHAPTER X.<lb/>
The Whittington Club—Louis Blanc—Street Amusements—Tower of London—Westminster Abbey—National Gallery—Dante—Sir Joshua Reynolds . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="brown123">123</ref></item>
          <item>CHAPTER XI.<lb/>
York Minster—The Great Organ—Newcastle-on-Tyne—The Laboring Classes—The American Slave&amp;Sheffield—James Montgomery, . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="brown136">136</ref></item>
          <item>CHAPTER XII.<lb/>
Kirkstall Abbey—Mary the Maid of the Inn—Newstead Abbey: Residence of Lord Byron—Parish 
Church of Hucknall—Burial-place of Lord Byron, . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="brown145">145</ref></item>
          <item>CHAPTER XIII.<lb/>
Bristol: “Cook's Folly”—Chepstow Castle and Abbey—Tintern Abbey—Redcliffe 
Church—Edinburgh—The Royal Institute—Scott's Monument—John Knox's Pulpit—Meetings 
in City hall, Glasgow, . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="brown154">154</ref></item>
          <item>CHAPTER XIV.<lb/>
Stirling—Dundee—Dr. Dick—George Gilfillan, the Essayist—Dr. Dick at home, . . . . . 
<ref targOrder="U" target="brown167">167</ref></item>
          <item>CHAPTER XV.<lb/>
Melrose Abbey—Abbotsford—Dryburgh Abbey—The Grave of Sir Walter 
Scott—Hawick—Gretna Green—Visit to the Lakes, . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="brown173">173</ref></item>
          <item>CHAPTER XVI.<lb/>
Miss Martineau—“The Knoll”—“Rydal Mount”—“The Dove's 
Nest”—Grave of William Wordsworth, Esq.—The English Peasant, . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="brown182">182</ref></item>
          <pb id="brownvii" n="vii"/>
          <item>CHAPTER XVII.<lb/>
A Day in the Crystal Palace—Thomas Carlyle, . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="brown193">193</ref></item>
          <item>CHAPTER XVIII.<lb/>
The London Peace Conference—Meeting of Fugitive Slaves—Temperance Demonstration—The Great 
Exhibition: Last Visit, . . . . . 
<ref targOrder="U" target="brown202">202</ref></item>
          <item>CHAPTER XIX.<lb/>
Oxford—Martyrs' Monument—Cost of the Burning of the Martyrs—The Colleges—Dr. 
Pusey—Energy the Secret of Success, . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="brown208">208</ref></item>
          <item>CHAPTER XX.<lb/>
Fugitive Slaves in England—Great Meeting in Hall of Commerce, London, . . . . . 
<ref targOrder="U" target="brown215">215</ref></item>
          <item>CHAPTER XXI.<lb/>
Visit to Stratford upon Avon—Shakspeare's Birth-place—His Grave—George Dawson, Esq., . . . .
 . <ref targOrder="U" target="brown223">223</ref></item>
          <item>CHAPTER XXII.<lb/>
Visit to Ludlow—The Wet Sheets—Landlady in a Fix
—Ludlow Castle—Milton's Comus—Butler's Hudibras—Visit to Hereford—Birth-places
of Garrick, Mrs. Siddons, Nell Gwynne, . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="brown230">230</ref></item>
          <item>CHAPTER XXIII.<lb/>
A Fashionable Dinner Party—Cowley, the Poet
—Residence of Alexander Pope
—His Merits as a Poet, . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="brown240">240</ref></item>
          <item>CHAPTER XXIV.<lb/>
Birth-place of Robert Burns—His Monument—Tam O'Shanter and Souter Johnny—The Shell
 Palace—Newark Castle—Highland Mary, . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="brown247">247</ref></item>
          <item>CHAPTER XXV.<lb/>
The Thames Tunnel—Colosseum—Swiss Cottage—Its Mysteries and its Beauties, . . . . . 
<ref targOrder="U" target="brown254">254</ref></item>
          <item>CHAPTER XXVI.<lb/>
Visit to a Burial-ground—Epitaph on the Grave of a Wife—A Warning to the Fair Sex, . . . . . 
<ref targOrder="U" target="brown259">259</ref></item>
          <item>CHAPTER XXVII.<lb/>
Scotland—Aberdeen—Passage by Water—Edinburgh—George Combe, . . . . . 
<ref targOrder="U" target="brown262">262</ref></item>
          <pb id="brownviii" n="viii"/>
          <item>CHAPTER XXVIII.<lb/>
Joseph Jenkins, the African Genius—His 
Street-sweeping—Bill-distributing—Psalm-singing—Othello—And his Preaching, . . . . . 
<ref targOrder="U" target="brown268">268</ref></item>
          <item>CHAPTER XXIX.<lb/>
Monument to Thomas Hood—Eliza Cook—Murdo Young—Milnes, the Poet, . . . . . 
<ref targOrder="U" target="brown276">276</ref></item>
          <item>CHAPTER XXX.<lb/>
A Night in the House of Commons—A Bird's-eye View of its Members—Hastie, Layard, Hume, the Father of the House, Edward Miall, W. J. Fox, Macaulay, Richard Cobden, Gladstone the Orator, Disraeli the Jew, Lord Dudley Stuart, Lord John Russell—A Debate in the House—People in the Gallery—Sir
Edward Bulver Lytton, . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="brown282">282</ref></item>
          <item>CHAPTER XXXI.<lb/>
Anniversary of West India Emancipation—Francis W. Kellogg—British Hatred of Oppression—A Singular Recognition—Lady Noel Byron and Ellen Craft, . . . . . 
<ref targOrder="U" target="brown296">296</ref></item>
          <item>CHAPTER XXXII.<lb/>
Thoughts on leaving for America—Acquaintances made in Great Britain—John Bishop Estlin—Departure in the Steamer “City of Manchester”—Peculiarities of Passengers—Irish, Germans, and Gypsies—Reception at Philadelphia—Anti-Christian Prejudices there—Design in Returning—
Reflections, . . . . . <ref targOrder="U" target="brown303">303</ref></item>
        </list>
      </div1>
    </front>
    <body>
      <div1 type="chapter">
        <pb id="brown9" n="9"/>
        <head>Memoir of the Author</head>
        <epigraph>
          <q type="verse" direct="unspecified">
            <lg type="verse">
              <l>“Shall tongues be mute when deeds are wrought</l>
              <l>Which well might shame extremest Hell?</l>
              <l>Shall freemen lack the indignant thought?</l>
              <l>Shall Mercy's bosom cease to swell?</l>
              <l>Shall honor bleed?—shall Truth succumb?</l>
              <l>Shall pen, and press, and <hi rend="italics">soul</hi> be dumb?”</l>
              <signed>
                <hi rend="italics">—Whittier.</hi>
              </signed>
            </lg>
          </q>
        </epigraph>
        <p>WILLIAM WELLS BROWN, the subject of this narrative,
was born a slave in Lexington, Kentucky, not far
from the residence of the late Hon. Henry Clay. His
mother was the slave of Dr. John Young. His father
was a slaveholder, and, besides being a near relation of
his master, was connected with the Wickliffe family, one
of the oldest, wealthiest, and most aristocratic of the
Kentucky planters. Dr. Young was the owner of forty
or fifty slaves, whose chief employment was in cultivating
tobacco, hemp, corn, and flax. The doctor removed from
Lexington, when William was five or six years old, to the
State of Missouri, and commenced farming in a beautiful
and fertile valley, within a mile of the Missouri river.</p>
        <p>Here the slaves were put to work under a harsh and
cruel overseer, named Cook. A finer situation for a farm
could not have been selected in the state. With a climate
favorable to agriculture, and soil rich, the products came
<pb id="brown10" n="10"/>
in abundance. At an early age William was separated
from his mother, she being worked in the field and he as
a servant in his masters medical department. When
about ten years of age, the young slave's feelings were
much hurt at hearing the cries of his mother while being
flogged by the negro-driver for being a few minutes behind
the other hands in reaching the field. He heard her cry,
“O, pray! O, pray! O, pray!” These are the words
which slaves generally utter when imploring mercy at
the hands of their oppressors. The son heard it, though
he was some way off. He heard the crack of the whip,
and the groans of his poor mother. The cold chill ran
over him, and he wept aloud; but he was a slave like
his mother, and could render her no assistance, He was
taught by the most bitter experience, that nothing could
be more heart-rending than to see a dear and beloved
mother or sister tortured by unfeeling men, and to hear
her cries, and not to be able to render the least aid.
When William was twelve years of age, his master left
his farm and took up his residence near St. Louis. The
doctor having more hands than he wanted for his own
use, William was let out to a Mr. Freeland, an innkeeper.
Here the young slave found himself in the hands of a
most cruel and heartless master. Freeland was one of
the real chivalry of the South; besides being himself a
slaveholder, he was a horse-racer, cock-fighter, gambler,
and, to crown the whole, an inveterate drunkard, What
else but bad treatment could be expected from such a
character? After enduring the tyrannical and inhuman
usage of this man for five or six months, William resolved
to stand it no longer, and therefore ran away, like other
slaves who leave their masters, owing to severe treatment;
<pb id="brown11" n="11"/>
and not knowing where to flee, the young fugitive went into
the forest, a few miles from St. Louis. He had been in
the woods but a short time, when he heard the barking
and howling of dogs, and was soon satisfied that he was
pursued by the negro-dogs; and, aware of their ferocious
nature, the fugitive climbed a tree, to save himself from
being torn to pieces. The hounds were soon at the trunk
of the tree, and remained there, howling and barking,
until those in whose charge they were came up. The
slave was ordered down, tied, and taken home. Immediately
on his arrival there, he was, as he expected, tied up
in the smoke-house, and whipped till Freeland was satisfied,
and then smoked with tobacco-stems. This the
slaveholder called “<hi rend="italics">Virginia play.</hi>” After being well
whipped and smoked, he was again set to work. William
remained with this monster a few months longer, and was
then let out to Elijah P. Lovejoy, who years after became
the editor of an abolition newspaper, and was
murdered at Alton, Illinois, by a mob of slaveholders
from the adjoining State of Missouri. The system of
letting out slaves is one among the worst of the evils of
slavery. The man who hires a slave looks upon him in
the same light as does the man who hires a horse for a
limited period; he feels no interest in him, only to get
the worth of his money. Not so with the man who owns
the slave; he regards him as so much property, of which
care should be taken. After being let out to a steamer
as an under-steward, William was hired by James Walker,
a slave-trader. Here the subject of our memoir was
made superintendent of the gangs of slaves that were
taken to the New Orleans market. In this capacity,
William had opportunities, far greater than most slaves,
<pb id="brown12" n="12"/>
of acquiring knowledge of the different phases of the
“<hi rend="italics">peculiar institution.</hi>” Walker was a negro speculator,
who was amassing a fortune by trading in the bones,
blood and nerves, of God's children. The thought of
such a traffic causes us to exclaim with the poet,
<q type="verse" direct="unspecified"><lg type="verse"><l>“——Is there not some chosen curse,</l><l>Some hidden thunder in the stores of heaven,</l><l>Red with uncommon wrath, to blast the man</l><l>Who gains his fortune from the blood of souls?”</l></lg></q>
Between fifty and sixty slaves were chained together,
put on board a steamboat bound for New Orleans, and
started on the voyage. New and strange scenes began
to inspire the young slave with the hope of escaping to a
land of freedom. There was in the boat a large room on
the lower deck in which the slaves were kept, men and
women promiscuously, all chained two and two together,
not even leaving the poor slaves the privilege of choosing
their partners. A strict watch was kept over them, so
that they had no chance of escape. Cases had occurred
in which slaves had got off their chains and made their
escape at the landing-places, while the boat stopped to
take in wood. But, with all their care, they lost one
woman who had been taken from her husband and children,
and, having no desire to live without them, in the
agony of her soul jumped overboard and drowned herself.
Her sorrows were greater than she could bear; slavery
and its cruel inflictions had broken her heart. She, like
William, sighed for freedom, but not the freedom which
even British soil confers and inspires, but freedom from
torturing pangs, and overwhelming grief.</p>
        <p>At the end of the week they arrived at New Orleans
the place of their destination. Here the slaves were
<pb id="brown13" n="13"/>
placed in a negro-pen, where those who wished to purchase
could call and examine them. The negro-pen is a
small yard surrounded by buildings, from fifteen to
twenty feet wide, with the exception of a large gate with
iron bars. The slaves are kept in the building during
the night, and turned into the pen during the day. After
the best of the gang were sold off, the balance was taken
to the Exchange Coffee-house auction rooms, and sold at
public auction. After the sale of the last slave, William
and Mr. Walker left New Orleans for St. Louis.</p>
        <p>After they had been at St. Louis a few weeks, another
cargo of human flesh was made up. There were amongst
the lot several old men and women, some of whom had
gray locks. On their way down to New Orleans William
had to prepare the old slaves for market. He was
ordered to shave off the old men's whiskers, and to pluck
out the gray hairs where they were not too numerous;
where they were, he colored them with a preparation of
blacking with a blacking-brush. After having gone
through the blacking process, they looked ten or fifteen
years younger. William, though not well skilled in the
use of scissors and razor, performed the office of the barber
tolerably. After the sale of this gang of negroes
they returned to St. Louis, and a second cargo was made
up. In this lot was a woman who had a child at the
breast, yet was compelled to travel through the interior
of the country on foot with the other slaves. In a
published memoir of his life, William says, “The child cried
during the most of the day, which displeased Mr. Walker,
and he told the mother that if her child did not stop crying
he would stop its mouth. After a long and weary
journey under a burning sun, we put up for the night
<pb id="brown14" n="14"/>
at a country inn. The following morning, just as they
were about to start, the child again commenced crying.
Walker stepped up to her, and told her to give the child
to him. The mother tremblingly obeyed. He took the
child by one arm, as any one would a cat by the leg,
and walked into the house where they had been staying,
and said to the lady, ‘Madam, I will make you a present
of this little nigger; it keeps making such a noise that I
can't bear it.’ ‘Thank you, sir,’ said the lady. The
mother, as soon as she saw that the child was to be left,
ran up to Mr. Walker, and, falling on her knees, begged
of him, in an agony of despair, to let her have her child.
She clung round his legs so closely that for some time
he could not kick her off; and she cried, ‘O my child,
my child! Master, do let me have my dear, dear child!
O! do, do! I will stop its crying, and love you forever,
if you will only let me have my child again.’ But her
prayers were not heeded; they passed on, and the mother
was separated from her child forever.</p>
        <p>“After the woman's child had been given away, Mr.
Walker rudely commanded her to retire into the ranks
with the other slaves. Women who had children were
not chained, but those who had none were. As soon as
her child was taken she was chained to the gang.”</p>
        <p>Nothing was more grievous to the sensitive feelings
of William than seeing the separation of families by the
slave-trader: husbands taken from their wives, and
mothers from their children, without the least appearance
of feeling on the part of those who separated them.
While at New Orleans, on one occasion, William saw a
slave murdered. The circumstances were as follows:
In the evening, between seven and eight o'clock, a slave
<pb id="brown15" n="15"/>
came running down the levee, followed by several men
and boys. The whites were crying out, “Stop that nigger!
stop that nigger!” while the poor panting slave,
in almost breathless accents, was repeating, “I did not
steal the meat—I did not steal the meat!” The poor
man at last took refuge in the river. The whites who
were in pursuit of him ran on board of one of the boats to
see if they could discover him. They finally espied him
under the bow of the steamboat “Trenton.” They got
a pike-pole, and tried to drive him from his hiding-place.
When they struck at him he would dive under the water.
The water was so cold that it soon became evident that
he must come out or be drowned.</p>
        <p>While they were trying to drive him from under the
boat or drown him, he, in broken and imploring accents,
said, “I did not steal the meat! I did not steal the meat!
My master lives up the river. I want to see my master.
I did not steal the meat! Do let me go home to Master!”
After punching and striking him over the head for some
time, he at last sunk in the water, to rise no more alive.</p>
        <p>On the end of the pike-pole with which they had been
striking him was a hook, which caught in his clothing,
and they hauled him up on the bow of the boat. Some
said he was dead; others said he was “playing 'possum;”
while others kicked him to make him get up; but
it was of no use—he was dead.</p>
        <p>As soon as they became satisfied of this, they commenced
leaving, one after another. One of the hands
on the boat informed the captain that they had killed the
man, and that the dead body was lying on the deck.
The captain, whose name was Hart, came on deck, and
said to those who were remaining, “You have killed this
<pb id="brown16" n="16"/>
nigger; now take him off my boat.” The dead body was
dragged on shore and left there. William went on board
of the boat where the gang of slaves were, and during
the whole night his mind was occupied with what he had
seen. Early in the morning he went on shore to see if
the dead body remained there. He found it in the
same position that it was left the night before. He
watched to see what they would do with it. It was left
there until between eight and nine o'clock, when a cart,
which took up the trash from the streets, came along,
and the body was thrown in, and in a few minutes more
was covered over with dirt, which they were removing
from the streets.</p>
        <p>At the expiration of the period of his hiring with
Walker, William returned to his master, rejoiced to have
escaped an employment as much against his own feelings
as it was repugnant to human nature. But this joy was
of short duration. The doctor wanted money, and
resolved to sell William's sister and two brothers. The
mother had been previously sold to a gentleman residing
in the city of St. Louis. William's master now informed
him that he intended to sell him, and, as he was his own
nephew, he gave him the privilege of finding some one to
purchase him, who would treat him better than if he
was sold on the auction-block. William tried to make
some arrangement by which he could purchase his own
freedom, but the old doctor would hear nothing of the
kind. If there is one thing more revolting in the trade
of human flesh than another, it is the selling of one's
own blood relations.</p>
        <p>He accordingly set out for the city in search of a new
master. When he arrived there, he proceeded to the
<pb id="brown17" n="17"/>
jail with the hope of seeing his sister, but was again
disappointed. On the following morning he made another
attempt, and was allowed to see her once, for the last
time. When he entered the room where she was seated
in one corner, alone and disconsolate, there were four
other women in the room, belonging to the same man,
who were bought, the jailer said, for the master's own
use.</p>
        <p>William's sister was seated with her face towards the
door when he entered, but her gaze was transfixed on
nothingness, and she did not look up when he walked up
to her; but as soon as she observed him she sprang up,
threw her arms around his neck, leaned her head upon
his breast, and, without uttering a word, in silent, indescribable
sorrow, burst into tears. She remained so for
some minutes, but when she recovered herself sufficiently
to speak she urged him to take his mother immediately,
and try to get to the land of freedom. She said there
was no hope for herself; she must live and die a slave.
After giving her some advice, and taking a ring from his
finger, he bade her farewell forever. Reader, did ever a
fair sister of thine go down to the grave prematurely?
If so, perchance thou hast drank deeply from the cup of
sorrow. But how infinitely better is it for a sister to
“go into the silent land” with her honor untarnished,
but with bright hopes, than for her to be sold to sensual
slaveholders!</p>
        <p>William had been in the city now two days, and, as
he was to be absent for only a week, it was well that he
should make the best use of his time, if he intended to
escape. In conversing with his mother, he found her
unwilling to make the attempt to reach the land of liberty
<pb id="brown18" n="18"/>
but she advised him by all means to get there
himself, if he possibly could. She said, as all her children
were in slavery, she did not wish to leave them;
but he loved his mother so intensely, that he could not
think of leaving without her. He consequently used all
his simple eloquence to induce her to fly with him, and, at
last, he prevailed. They consequently fixed upon the next
night as the time for their departure. The time at length
arrived, and they left the city just as the clock struck
nine. Having found a boat, they crossed the river in it.
Whose boat it was he did not know; neither did he care.
When it had served his purpose, he turned it adrift, and
when he saw it last it was going at a good speed down
the river. After walking in the main road as fast as
they could all night, when the morning came they made
for the woods, and remained there during the day; but
when night came again, they proceeded on their journey,
with nothing but the North Star to guide them. They
continued to travel by night, and to bury themselves in
the silent solitudes of the forest by day. Hunger and
fatigue could not stop them, for the prospect of freedom
at the end of the journey nerved them up. The very
thought of leaving slavery, with its democratic whips,
republican chains, and bloodhounds, caused the hearts of
the weary fugitives to leap with joy. After travelling ten
nights, and hiding in the woods during the day for fear of
being arrested and taken back, they thought they might
with safety go the rest of the way by daylight. In nearly
all the free states there are men who make a business of
catching runaway slaves and returning them to their
owners for the reward that may be offered; some of those
were on the alert for William and his mother, for they
<pb id="brown19" n="19"/>
had already seen the runaways advertised in the St. Louis
newspapers.</p>
        <p>All at once they heard the click of a horse's hoof, and
looking back saw three men on horseback galloping towards
them. They soon came up, and demanded them
to stop. The three men dismounted, arrested them on a
warrant, and showed them a handbill, offering two hundred
dollars for their apprehension and delivery to Dr.
Young and Isaac Mansfield, in St. Louis.</p>
        <p>While they were reading the handbill, William's mother
looked him in the face and burst into tears. “A cold
chill ran over me,” says he, “and such a sensation I
never experienced before, and I trust I never shall
again.” They took out a rope and tied him, and they
were taken back to the house of the individual who
appeared to be the leader. They then had something
given them to eat, and were separated. Each of them
was watched over by two men during the night. The
religious characteristic of the American slaveholder soon
manifested itself, as, before the family retired to rest,
they were all called together to attend prayers; and the
very man who, but a few hours before, had arrested poor,
panting, fugitive slaves, now read a chapter from the
Bible, and offered a prayer to God; as if that benignant
and omnipotent One consecrated the infernal act he had
just committed.</p>
        <p>The next morning they were chained and handcuffed,
and started back to St. Louis. A journey of three days
brought the fugitives again to the place they had left
twelve days previously, with the hope that they would
never return. They were put in prison to await the
orders of their owners. When a slave attempts to escape
<pb id="brown20" n="20"/>
and fails, he feels sure of either being severely punished,
or sold to the negro-traders and taken to the far south,
there to be worked up on a cotton, sugar, or rice plantation.
This William and his mother dreaded. While
they were in suspense as to what would be their fate,
news came to them that the mother had been sold to a
slave-speculator. William was soon sold to a merchant
residing in the city, and removed to his new owner's
dwelling. In a few days the gang of slaves, of which
William's mother was one, were taken on board a steamer,
to be carried to the New Orleans market. The young
slave obtained permission from his new owner to go and
take a last farewell of his mother. He went to the boat,
and found her there, chained to another woman, and the
whole number of slaves, amounting to some fifty or sixty,
chained in the same manner. As the son approached his
mother she moved not, neither did she weep; her emotions
were too deep for tears. William approached her,
threw his arms around her neck, kissed her, fell upon
his knees begging her forgiveness, for he thought he was
to blame for her sad condition, and if he had not persuaded
her to accompany him she might not have been
in chains then.</p>
        <p>She remained for some time apparently unimpressionable,
tearless, sighless, but in the innermost depths of her
heart moved mighty passions. William says, “She
finally raised her head, looked me in the face,—and such
a look none but an angel can give!—and said, ‘My dear
son, you are not to blame for my being here, You have
done nothing less than your duty. Do not, I
pray you, weep for me; I cannot last long upon a cotton
plantation. I feel that my heavenly Master will soon
<pb id="brown21" n="21"/>
call me home, and then I shall be out of the hands of
the slaveholders.’ I could hear no more, my heart
struggled to free itself from the human form. In a moment
she saw Mr. Mansfield, her master, coming toward
that part of the boat, and she whispered in my ear, ‘My
child, we must soon part to meet no more on this side
of the grave. You have ever said that you would not
die a slave; that you would be a freeman. Now try to
get your liberty! You will soon have no one to look
after but yourself!’ and just as she whispered the last
sentence into my ear, Mansfield came up to me, and,
with an oath, said, ‘Leave here this instant! you have
been the means of my losing one hundred dollars to get
this wench back,’ at the same time kicking me with a
heavy pair of boots. As I left her she gave one shriek,
saying, ‘God be with you!’ It was the last time that I
saw her, and the last word I heard her utter.</p>
        <p>“I walked on shore. The bell was tolling. The boat
was about to start. I stood with a heavy heart, waiting
to see her leave the wharf. As I thought of my mother,
I could but feel that I had lost
<q type="verse" direct="unspecified"><lg type="verse"><l>‘The glory of my life,</l><l>My blessing and my pride!</l><l>I half forgot the name of slave</l><l>When she was by my side.’</l></lg></q></p>
        <p>“The love of liberty that had been burning in my
bosom had well-nigh gone out. I felt as though I was
ready to die. The boat moved gently from the wharf,
and while she glided down the river I realized that my
mother was indeed
<q type="verse" direct="unspecified"><lg type="verse"><l>‘Gone—gone—sold and gone</l><l>To the rice-swamp, dank and lone.’</l></lg></q></p>
        <pb id="brown22" n="22"/>
        <p>“After the boat was out of sight I returned home;
but my thoughts were so absorbed in what I had witnessed
that I knew not what I was about. Night came,
but it brought no sleep to my eyes.” When once the
love of freedom is born in the slave's mind, it always
increases and brightens, and William heard so
much about Canada, where a number of his acquaintances
had found a refuge and a home, he heartily desired to
join them. Building castles in the air in the day-time,
incessantly thinking of freedom, he would dream of the
land of liberty, but on waking in the morning would weep
to find it but a dream.</p>
        <lg type="verse">
          <l>“He would dream of Victoria's domain,</l>
          <l>And in a moment he seemed to be there;</l>
          <l>But the fear of being taken again</l>
          <l>Soon hurried him back to despair.”</l>
        </lg>
        <p>Having been for some time employed as a servant in
a hotel, and being of a very active turn, William's new
owner resolved to let him out on board a steamboat.
Consequently the young slave was hired out to the
steamer St. Louis, and soon after sold to Captain Enoch
Price, the owner of that boat. Here he was destined to
remain but a short period, as Mrs. Price wanted a carriage-driver,
and had set her heart upon William for that purpose.</p>
        <p>Scarcely three months had elapsed from the time that
William became the property of Captain Price, ere that
gentleman's family took a pleasure-trip to New Orleans,
and William accompanied them. From New Orleans the
family proceeded to Louisville. The hope of escape
again dawned upon the slave's mind, and the trials of
<pb id="brown23" n="23"/>
the past were lost in hopes for the future. The love of
liberty, which had been burning in his bosom for years,
and which, at times, had been well-nigh extinguished,
was now resuscitated. Hopes nurtured in childhood, and
strengthened as manhood dawned, now spread their sails
to the gales of his imagination. At night, when all
around was peaceful, and in the mystic presence of the
everlasting starlight, he would walk the steamer's decks,
meditating on his happy prospects, and summoning up
gloomy reminiscences of the dear hearts he was leaving
behind him. When not thinking of the future his mind
would dwell on the past. The love of a dear mother, a
dear and affectionate sister, and three brothers yet living,
caused him to shed many tears. If he could only be
assured of their being dead, he would have been comparatively
happy; but he saw, in imagination, his mother
in the cotton-field, followed by a monster task-master,
and no one to speak a consoling word to her. He beheld
his sister in the hands of the slave-driver, compelled to
submit to his cruelty, or, what was unutterably worse,
his lust; but still he was far away from them, and could
not do anything for them if he remained in slavery;
consequently he resolved, and consecrated the resolve with
a prayer, that he would start on the first opportunity.</p>
        <p>That opportunity soon presented itself. When the
boat got to the wharf where it had to stay for some time,
at the first convenient moment William made towards the
woods, where he remained until night-time. He dared
not walk during the day, even in the State of Ohio, he
had seen so much of the perfidy of white men, and
resolved, if possible, not to get into their hands. After
darkness covered the world, he emerged from his hiding-place;
<pb id="brown24" n="24"/>
but he did not know east from west, or north from
south; clouds hid the North Star from his view. In
this desolate condition he remained for some hours, when
the clouds rolled away, and his friend, with its shining
face,—the North Star,—welcomed his sight. True as
the needle to the pole, he obeyed its attractive beauty, and
walked on till daylight dawned.</p>
        <p>It was winter-time; the day on which he started was
the first of January, and, as it might be expected, it was
intensely cold; he had no overcoat, no food, no friend,
save the North Star, and the God which made it. How
ardently must the love of freedom burn in the poor
slave's bosom, when he will pass through so many
difficulties, and even look death in the face, in winning his
birthright freedom! But what crushed the poor slave's
heart in his flight most was, not the want of food or
clothing, but the thought that every white man was his
deadly enemy. Even in the free States the prejudice
against color is so strong, that there appears to exist a
deadly antagonism between the white and colored races.</p>
        <p>William in his flight carried a tinder box with him,
and when he got very cold he would gather together dry
leaves and stubble and make a fire, or certainly he would
have perished. He was determined to enter into no
house, fearing that he might meet a betrayer.</p>
        <p>It must have been a picture which would have inspired
an artist, to see the fugitive roasting the ears of corn that
he found or took from barns during the night, at solitary
fires in the deep solitudes of woods.</p>
        <p>The suffering of the fugitive was greatly increased by
the cold, from the fact of his having just come from the
warm climate of New Orleans. Slaves seldom have more
<pb id="brown25" n="25"/>
than one name, and William was not an exception to this,
and the fugitive began to think for an additional name.
A heavy rain of three days, in which it froze as fast as it
fell, and by which the poor fugitive was completely
drenched, and still more chilled, added to the depression
of his spirits already created by his weary journey.
Nothing but the fire of hope burning within his breast
could have sustained him under such overwhelming trials.</p>
        <lg type="verse">
          <l>“Behind he left the whip and chains;</l>
          <l>Before him were sweet Freedom's plains.”</l>
        </lg>
        <p>Through cold and hunger, William was now ill, and
he could go no further. The poor fugitive resolved to
seek protection, and accordingly hid himself in the woods
near the road, until some one should pass. Soon a traveller
came along, but the slave dared not speak. A few
moments more and a second passed; the fugitive attempted
to speak, but fear deprived him of voice. A
third made his appearance. He wore a broad-brimmed
hat and a long coat, and was evidently walking only for
exercise. William scanned him well, and, though not
much skilled in physiognomy, he concluded he was the
man. William approached him, and asked him if he
knew any one who would help him, as he was sick. The
gentleman asked whether he was not a slave. The poor
slave hesitated; but, on being told that he had nothing
to fear, he answered “Yes.” The gentleman told him
he was in a pro-slavery neighborhood, but, if he would
wait a little, he would go and get a covered wagon, and
convey him to his house. After he had gone, the fugitive
meditated whether he should stay or not, being
apprehensive that the broad-brimmed gentleman had
<pb id="brown26" n="26"/>
gone for some one to assist him: he however concluded
to remain.</p>
        <p>After waiting about an hour—an hour big with fate
to him—he saw the covered-wagon making its appearance,
and no one in it but the person he before accosted.
Trembling with hope and fear, he entered the wagon,
and was carried to the person's house. When he got
there, he still halted between two opinions, whether he
should enter or take to his heels; but he soon decided,
after seeing the glowing face of the wife. He saw something
in her that bid him welcome, something that told
him he would not be betrayed.</p>
        <p>He soon found that he was under the shed of a Quaker,
and a Quaker of the George Fox stamp. He had heard
of Quakers and their kindness; but was not prepared to
meet with such hospitality as now greeted him. He saw
nothing but kind looks, and heard nothing but tender
words. He began to feel the pulsations of a new existence.
White men always scorned him, but now a white
benevolent woman felt glad to wait on him ; it was a
revolution in his experience. The table was loaded with
good things, but he could not eat. If he were allowed
the privilege of sitting in the kitchen, he thought he
could do justice to the viands. The surprise being over,
his appetite soon returned.</p>
        <p>“I have frequently been asked,” says William, “how I felt upon finding myself regarded as a man by a white
family; especially having just run away from one. I
cannot say that I have ever answered the question yet.
The fact that I was, in all probability, a freeman,
sounded in my cars like a charm. I am satisfied that
none but a slave could place such an appreciation upon
<pb id="brown27" n="27"/>
liberty as I did at that time. I wanted to see my mother
and sister, that I might tell them that ‘I was free!’ I
wanted to see my fellow-slaves in St. Louis, and let them
know that the chains were no longer upon my limbs. I
wanted to see Captain Price, and let him learn from my
own lips that I was no more a chattel, but a MAN. I
was anxious, too, thus to inform Mrs. Price that she
must get another coachman, and I wanted to see Eliza
more than I did Mr. Price or Mrs. Price. The fact that
I was a freeman—could walk, talk, eat, and sleep as a
man, and no one to stand over me with the blood-clotted
cow-hide—all this made me feel that I was not myself.”</p>
        <p>The kind Quaker, who so hospitably entertained William,
was called Wells Brown. He remained with him
about a fortnight, during which time he was well fed and
clothed. Before leaving, the Quaker asked him what was
his name besides William. The fugitive told him he had
no other. “Well,” said he, “thee must have another name. Since thee has got out of slavery, thee has become
a man, and men always have two names.”</p>
        <p>William told him that as he was the first man to
extend the hand of friendship to him, he would give him the
privilege of naming him.</p>
        <p>“If I name thee,” said he, “I shall call thee Wells
Brown, like myself.”</p>
        <p>“But,” said he, “I am not willing to lose my name
of William. It was taken from me once against my will,
and I am not willing to part with it on any terms.”</p>
        <p>“Then,” said the benevolent man, “I will call thee
William Wells Brown.”</p>
        <p>“So be it,” said William Wells Brown, and he has
been known by this name ever since.</p>
        <pb id="brown28" n="28"/>
        <p>After giving the newly-christened freeman “a name,”
the Quaker gave him something to aid him to get “a
local habitation.” So, after giving him some money,
Brown again started for Canada. In four days he
reached a public-house, and went in to warm himself.
He soon found that he was not out of the reach of his
enemies. While warming himself, he heard some men in
an adjoining bar-room talking about some runaway
slaves. He thought it was time to be off, and, suiting
the action to the thought, he was soon in the woods out
of sight. When night came, he returned to the road and
walked on; and so, for two days and two nights, till he
 was faint and ready to perish of hunger.</p>
        <p>In this condition he arrived in the town of Cleveland,
Ohio, on the banks of Lake Erie, where he determined
to remain until the spring, of the year, and then to try
and reach Canada. Here he was compelled to work
merely for his food.</p>
        <p>Having tasted the sweets of freedom himself, his great
desire was to extend its blessing to his race, and in the
language of the poet he would ask himself,
<q type="verse" direct="unspecified"><lg type="verse"><lg type="stanza"><l>“Is true freedom but to break</l><l>Fetters for our own dear sake,</l><l>And with leathern hearts forget</l><l>That we owe mankind a debt?</l></lg><lg type="stanza"><l>“No! true freedom is to share</l><l>All the chains our brothers wear,</l><l>And with heart and hand to be</l><l>Earnest to make others free.”</l></lg></lg></q>
While acting as a servant to one of the steamers on Lake
Erie, Brown often took fugitives from Cleveland and
other ports to Buffalo, or Detroit, from either of which
places they could cross to Canada in an hour. During
<pb id="brown29" n="29"/>
the season of 1842, this fugitive slave conveyed no less
than <hi rend="italics">sixty-nine</hi> runaway slaves across Lake Erie, and
placed them safe on the soil of Canada.</p>
        <p>In proportion as his mind expanded under the more
favorable circumstances in which he was placed, Brown
became anxious, not merely for the redemption of his
race from personal slavery, but for the moral and religious
elevation of those who were free. Finding that
habits of intoxication were too prevalent among his
colored brethren, he, in conjunction with others, commenced
a temperance reformation in their body. Such
was the success of their efforts that, in three years, in
the city of Buffalo alone, a society of upwards of five
hundred members was raised out of a colored population
of less than seven hundred. Of that society Mr. Brown
was thrice elected president.</p>
        <p>In the Spring of 1844 he became an agent of the Western
New York Anti-Slavery Society, and afterwards
spent some time in the service of the Massachusetts Society.
In 1849 Mr. Brown embarked for Europe as a
delegate to the Paris Peace Conference.</p>
        <p>The reception of Mr. Brown at the Peace Congress, in
Paris, was most flattering. He admirably maintained his
reputation as a public speaker. His brief address upon
that “war spirit of America, which holds in bondage
nearly four millions of his brethren,” produced a profound
sensation. At its conclusion the speaker was
warmly greeted by Victor Hugo, the Abbé Duguerry,
Emile de Girardin, Richard Cobden, and every man of
note in the assembly. At the soirée given by M. de
Tocqueville, the Minister for Foreign Affairs, and the
<pb id="brown30" n="30"/>
other fêtes given to the members of the Congress, Mr.
Brown was received with marked attention.</p>
        <p>Having finished his peace mission in France, he returned
to England, where he was received with a hearty
welcome by some of the most influential abolitionists of
that country. Most of the fugitive slaves, and, in fact,
nearly all of the colored men who have visited Great
Britain from the United States, have come upon begging
missions, either for some society or for themselves. Mr.
Brown has been almost the only exception. With that
independence of feeling which those who are acquainted
with him know to be one of his chief characteristics, he
determined to maintain himself and family by his own
exertions,—by his literary labors, and the honorable
profession of a public lecturer. From nearly all the
cities and large provincial towns be received invitations to
lecture or address public meetings. The mayors, or other
citizens of note, presided over many of those meetings.
At Newcastle-upon-Tyne a soirée was given him, and an
address presented by the citizens. A large and influential
meeting was held at Bolton, Lancashire, which was
addressed by Mr. Brown, and at its close the ladies presented
to him the following address:</p>
        <q type="address" direct="unspecified">
          <text>
            <body>
              <div1 type="address">
                <head>“AN ADDRESS PRESENTED TO MR. WILLIAM WELLS BROWN, THE FUGITIVE SLAVE FROM AMERICA, BY THE LADIES OF BOLTON, MARCH 22ND, 1850:</head>
                <p>“DEAR FRIEND AND BROTHER: We cannot permit
you to depart from among us without giving expression
to the feelings which we entertain towards yourself
personally, and to the sympathy which you have awakened
in our breasts for the three millions of our sisters
and brothers who still suffer and groan in the prison-house
<pb id="brown31" n="31"/>
of American bondage. You came among us an
entire stranger; we received you for the sake of your
mission; and having heard the story of your personal
wrongs, and gazed with horror on the atrocities of
slavery as seen through the medium of your touching
descriptions, we are resolved, henceforward, in reliance
on divine assistance, to render what aid we can to the
cause which you have so eloquently pleaded in our
presence.</p>
                <p>“We have no words to express our detestation of the
crimes which, in the name of liberty, are committed in
the country which gave you birth. Language fails to
tell our deep abhorrence of the impiety of those who, in
the still more sacred name of religion, rob immortal beings
not only of an earthly citizenship, but do much to
prevent them from obtaining a heavenly one; and, as
mothers and daughters, we embrace this opportunity of
giving utterance to our utmost indignation at the cruelties
perpetrated upon our sex, by a people professedly
acknowledging the equality of all mankind. Carry with
you, on your return to the land of your nativity, this our
solemn protest against the wicked institution which, like
a dark and baleful cloud, hangs over it; and ask the unfeeling
enslavers, as best you can, to open the prison-doors
to them that are bound, and let the oppressed go
free.</p>
                <p>“Allow us to assure you that your brief sojourn in
our town has been to ourselves, and to vast multitudes,
of a character long to be remembered; and when you
are far removed from us, and toiling, as we hope you
may be long spared to do, in this righteous enterprise, it
may be some solace to your mind to know that your
<pb id="brown32" n="32"/>
name is cherished with affectionate regard, and that the
blessing of the Most High is earnestly supplicated in
behalf of yourself, your family, and the cause to which
you have consecrated your distinguished talents.”</p>
              </div1>
            </body>
          </text>
        </q>
        <p>A most respectable and enthusiastic public meeting
was held at Sheffield to welcome Mr. Brown, and the
next day he was invited to inspect several of the large
establishments there. While going through the manufactory
of Messrs. Broadhead and Atkin, silver and electro-
platers, &amp;c., in Love-street, and whilst he was being
shown through the works, a subscription was hastily set
on foot on his behalf, by the workmen and women of the
establishment, which was presented to Mr. Brown, in the
counting-house, by a deputation of the subscribers. The
spokesman (the designer to Messrs. Broadhead &amp; Atkin),
addressing Mr. Brown on behalf of the work-people,
begged his acceptance of the present as a token of esteem,
as well as an expression of their sympathy in the
cause be advocates, namely, that of the American slave.
Mr. Brown briefly thanked the parties for their spontaneous
free-will offering, accompanied, as it was, by a
generous expression of sympathy for his afflicted brethren
and sisters in bondage.</p>
        <p>Mr. Brown was in England five years, and during
his sojourn there travelled above twenty-five thousand
miles through Great Britain, addressed more than one
thousand public meetings, lectured in twenty-three mechanics'
and literary institutions, and gave his services
to many of the benevolent and religious societies on the
occasion of their anniversary meetings. After a lecture
which he delivered before the Whittington Club, he
<pb id="brown33" n="33"/>
received from the managers of that institution the following
testimonial:</p>
        <q type="testimonial" direct="unspecified">
          <text>
            <body>
              <div1 type="testimonial">
                <opener>
                  <dateline>“WHITTINGTON CLUB AND METROPOLITAN ATHENÆUM,<lb/>
189 STRAND, <date><hi rend="italics">June</hi> 21, 1850.</date></dateline>
                </opener>
                <p>“My DEAR SIR: I have much pleasure in conveying
to you the best thanks of the Managing Committee
of this institution for the excellent lecture you gave
here last evening, and also in presenting you in their
names with an honorary membership of the club. It is
hoped that you will often avail yourself of its privileges by
coming amongst us. You will then see, by the cordial
welcome of the members, that they protest against the
odious distinctions made between man and man, and the
abominable traffic of which you have been the victim.</p>
                <p>“For my own part, I shall be happy to be serviceable
to you in any way, and at all times be glad to place the
advantages of the institution at your disposal.</p>
                <closer><salute>“I am, my dear sir, yours, truly,</salute>
<signed>“WILLIAM STRUDWICKE, <hi rend="italics">Secretary.</hi></signed></closer>
                <trailer>“Mr. W. WELLS BROWN.”</trailer>
              </div1>
            </body>
          </text>
        </q>
        <p>The following lines were read at a soiree given to Mr.
Brown at Bristol, in 1850:
<q type="verse" direct="unspecified"><lg type="verse"><head>TO WILLIAM WELLS BROWN,<lb/>
THE AMERICAN FUGITIVE SLAVE.</head><byline>BY E. S. MATHEWS.</byline><lg type="stanza"><l>Brother, farewell to thee!</l><l>His blessing on thee rest</l><l>Who hates all slavery</l><l>And helps the poor oppressed.</l></lg><lg type="stanza"><l>Go forth with power to break</l><l>The bitter, galling yoke;</l><pb id="brown34" n="34"/><l>Go forth amongst strong and weak,</l><l>The aid of all invoke.</l></lg><lg type="stanza"><l>O, thou wilt have much woe,</l><l>Tossed on a sea of strife,</l><l>Hunted by many a foe</l><l>Eager to take thy life.</l></lg><lg type="stanza"><l>Perchance thou'lt have to brook</l><l>The taunts of bond and free,</l><l>The cold, disdainful look</l><l>Of men—less men than thee.</l></lg><lg type="stanza"><l>We feel thy soul will rise</l><l>Superior to it all;</l><l>For thou hast heard the cries,</l><l>And drained the cup of gall.</l></lg><lg type="stanza"><l>Thine eyes have wept the tears</l><l>Which tyrants taught to flow,</l><l>While craven scorn and sneers</l><l>Fell with the shameful blow.</l></lg><lg type="stanza"><l>And now that thou art come</l><l>To Freedom's blessed land,</l><l>Thou broodest on thy home</l><l>And Slavery's hateful brand.</l></lg><lg type="stanza"><l>Thou thinkest thou canst hear</l><l>Three million voices call</l><l>They raise to thee their prayer,—</l><l>Haste, help to break their thrall!</l></lg><lg type="stanza"><l>Say, wilt thou have, thy steps to guard,</l><l>Some powerful spell or charm?</l><l>Then listen to thy sister's word,</l><l>Nor fear thou hurt or harm.</l></lg><lg type="stanza"><l>When shines the North Star, cold and bright,</l><l>Cheer thou thy heart, lift up thy head!</l><l>Feel, as thou look'st upon its light,</l><l>That blessings on its beams are shed!</l><l>For rich, and poor, and bond, and free,</l><l>Will also gaze and pray for thee.</l></lg></lg></q></p>
      </div1>
      <div1 type="chapter">
        <pb id="brown35" n="35"/>
        <head>CHAPTER I.</head>
        <epigraph>
          <q type="verse" direct="unspecified">
            <lg type="verse">
              <l>“Adieu, adieu!—my native shore</l>
              <l>Fades o'er the waters blue;</l>
              <l>The night-winds sigh, the breakers roar,</l>
              <l>And shrieks the wild sea-mew.</l>
              <l>Yon sun that sets upon the sea</l>
              <l>We follow in his flight;</l>
              <l>Farewell it while to him and thee!</l>
              <l>My native land, good-night!”</l>
              <signed>CHILDE HAROLD.</signed>
            </lg>
          </q>
        </epigraph>
        <p>ON the 18th July, 1849, I took passage in the steamship
<hi rend="italics">Canada</hi>, Captain Judkins, bound for Liverpool.
The day was a warm one; so much so, that many persons
on board, as well as on shore, stood with their
umbrellas up, so intense was the heat of the sun. The
ringing of the ship's bell was a signal for us to shake
hands with our friends, which we did, and then stepped
on the deck of the noble craft. The <hi rend="italics">Canada</hi> quitted
her moorings at half-past twelve, and we were soon in
motion. As we were passing out of Boston Bay, I took
my stand on the quarter-deck, to take a last farewell
(at least for a time) of my native land. A visit to the
Old World, up to that time, had seemed but a dream. As
<pb id="brown36" n="36"/>
I looked back upon the receding land, recollections of
the past rushed through my mind in quick succession.
From the treatment that I had received from the
Americans as a victim of slavery, and the knowledge
that I was at that time liable to be seized and again
reduced to whips and chains, I had supposed that I
would leave the country without any regret; but in this
I was mistaken, for when I saw the last thread of communication
cut off between me and the land, and the
dim shores dying away in the distance, I almost regretted
that I was not on shore.</p>
        <p>An anticipated trip to a foreign country appears
pleasant when talking about it, especially when surrounded
by friends whom we love; but when we have
left them all behind, it does not seem so pleasant.
Whatever may be the fault of the government under
which we live, and no matter how oppressive her laws
may appear, yet we leave our native land (if such it be)
with feelings akin to sorrow. With the steamer's powerful
engine at work, and with a fair wind, we were
speedily on the bosom of the Atlantic, which was as
calm and as smooth as our own Hudson in its calmest
aspect. We had on board above one hundred passengers,
forty of whom were the “Vienneise children”—a
troop of dancers. The passengers represented several
different nations, English, French, Spaniards, Africans,
and Americans. One man, who had the longest mustache
that mortal man was ever doomed to wear, especially
attracted my attention. He appeared to belong to
<pb id="brown37" n="37"/>
no country in particular, but was yet the busiest man on
board. After viewing for some time the many strange
faces round me, I descended to the cabin to look after
my luggage, which had been put hurriedly on board. I
hope that all who take a trip of so great a distance may
be as fortunate as I was, in being supplied with books to
read on the voyage. My friends had furnished me with
literature, from “Macaulay's History of England” to
“Jane Eyre,” so that I did not want for books to
occupy my time.</p>
        <p>A pleasant passage of about thirty hours brought us
to Halifax, at six o'clock in the evening. In company
with my friend the President of the Oberlin Institute,
I took a stroll through the town; and from what little I
saw of the people in the streets, I am sure that the
taking of the temperance pledge would do them no injury.
Our stay at Halifax was short. Having taken in a
few sacks of coals, the mails, and a limited number of
passengers, we were again out, and soon at sea.</p>
        <p>As the steamer moved gently from the shore I felt
like repeating those lines of a distinguished poet:
<q direct="unspecified"><lg type="verse"><l>“With thee, my bark, I'll swiftly go</l><l>Athwart the foaming brine;</l><l>Nor care what land thou bear'st me to,</l><l>So not again to mine.</l><l>Welcome, welcome, ye dark blue waves!</l><l>And when you fail my sight</l><l>Welcome ye deserts and ye caves</l><l>My native land, good night!”</l></lg></q></p>
        <pb id="brown38" n="38"/>
        <p>Nothing occurred during the passage to mar the
pleasure which we anticipated from a voyage by sea in such
fine weather. And, after a splendid run of seven days
more, I heard the welcome cry of “Land a-head.” It
was early in the morning, and I was not yet out of bed;
but I had no wish to remain longer in my berth, Although
the passage had been unprecedently short, yet
this news was hailed with joy by all on board.</p>
        <p>For my own part, I was soon on deck. Away in the
distance, and on our larboard quarter, were the gray
hills of old Ireland. Yes; we were in sight of the land
of Curran, Emmet and O'Connell. While I rejoiced
with the other passengers at the sight of land, and the
near approach to the end of our voyage, I felt low-spirited,
because it reminded we of the great distance I
was from home, and of dear ones left behind. But the
experience of above twenty years' travelling had prepared
me to undergo what most persons must, in visiting
a strange country. This was the last day but one
that we were to be on board; and, as if moved by the
sight of land, all seemed to be gathering their different
things together—brushing up their old clothes and putting
on their new ones, as if this would bring them any
sooner to the end of their journey.</p>
        <p>The last night on board was the most pleasant, apparently,
that we had experienced; probably, because it
was the last. The moon was in her meridian splendor,
pouring her broad light over the calm sea; while near to
us, on our starboard side, was a ship, with her snow-white
<pb id="brown39" n="39"/>
sails spread aloft, and stealing through the water
like a thing of life. What can present a more picturesque
view than two vessels at sea on a moonlight
night, and within a few rods of each other? With a
gentle breeze, and the powerful engine at work, we
seemed to be flying to the embrace of our British
neighbors.</p>
        <p>The next morning I was up before the sun, and found
that we were within a few miles of Liverpool. The
taking of a pilot on board at eleven o'clock warned us
to prepare to quit our ocean palace, and seek other quarters.
At a little past three o'clock, the ship cast anchor,
and we were all tumbled, bag and baggage, into a small
steamer, and in a few moments were at the door of the
custom-house. The passage had only been nine days
and twenty-two hours, the quickest on record at that
time, yet it was long enough. I waited nearly three
hours before my name was called, and when it was I
unlocked my trunks and handed them over to one of the
officers, whose dirty hands made no improvement on the
work of the laundress. First one article was taken out,
and then another, till an <hi rend="italics">Iron Collar</hi> that had been
worn by a female slave on the banks of the Mississippi
was hauled out, and this democratic instrument of torture
became the centre of attraction; so much so, that
instead of going on with the examination, all hands
stopped to look at the “Negro Collar.”</p>
        <p>Several of my countrymen who were standing by
were not a little displeased at answers which I gave to
<pb id="brown40" n="40"/>
questions on the subject of slavery; but they held their
peace. The interest created by the appearance of the
iron collar closed the examination of my luggage. As
if afraid that they would find something more hideous,
they put the custom-house mark on each piece, and
passed them out, and I was soon comfortably installed at
Brown's Temperance Hotel, Clayton-square.</p>
        <p>No person of my complexion can visit this country
without being struck with the marked difference between
the English and the Americans. The prejudice which I
have experienced on all and every occasion in the United
States, and to some extent on board the <hi rend="italics">Canada</hi>, vanished
as soon as I set foot on the soil of Britain. In
America I had been bought and sold as a slave in the
Southern States. In the so-called Free States, I had been
treated as one born to occupy an inferior position,—in
steamers, compelled to take my fare on the deck; in
hotels, to take my meals in the kitchen; in coaches, to
ride on the outside; in railways, to ride in the “negro-car;”
and in churches, to sit in the “negro-pew.” But
no sooner was I on British soil, than I was recognized
as a man, and an equal. The very dogs in the streets
appeared conscious of my manhood. Such is the difference,
and such is the change that is brought about by
a trip of nine days in an Atlantic steamer.</p>
        <p>I was not more struck with the treatment of the people
than with the appearance of the great seaport of the
world. The gray stone piers and docks, the dark look
<pb id="brown41" n="41"/>
of the magnificent warehouses, the substantial appearance
of everything around, causes one to think himself
in a new world instead of the old. Everything in Liverpool
looks old, yet nothing is worn out. The beautiful
villas on the opposite side of the river, in the vicinity
of Birkenhead, together with the countless number of
vessels in the river, and the great ships to be seen in the
stream, give life and animation to the whole scene.</p>
        <p>Everything in and about Liverpool seems to be built
for the future as well as the present. We had time to
examine but few of the public buildings, the first of
which was the custom-house, an edifice that would be an
ornament to any city in the world.</p>
      </div1>
      <div1 type="chapter">
        <pb id="brown42" n="42"/>
        <head>CHAPTER II.</head>
        <epigraph>
          <lg type="verse">
            <l>“It seems as if every ship their sovereign knows,</l>
            <l>His awful summons they so soon obey;</l>
            <l>So hear the scaly herds when Proteus blows,</l>
            <l>And so to pasture follow through the sea.”</l>
          </lg>
        </epigraph>
        <p>AFTER remaining in Liverpool two days, I took passage
in the little steamer <hi rend="italics">Adelaide</hi> for Dublin. The
wind being high on the night of our voyage the vessel
had scarcely got to sea ere we were driven to our berths;
and, though the distance from Liverpool to Dublin is
short, yet, strange to say, I witnessed more effects of the
sea and rolling of the steamer upon the passengers, than
was to be seen during the whole of our voyage from
America. We reached Kingstown, five miles below
Dublin, after a passage of nearly fifteen hours, and were
soon seated on a car, and on our way to the city. While
coming into the bay, one gets a fine view of Dublin and
the surrounding country. Few sheets of water make a
more beautiful appearance than Dublin Bay. We found
it as still and smooth as a mirror, with a soft mist on its
surface,—a strange contrast to the boisterous sea that
we had left a moment before.</p>
        <pb id="brown43" n="43"/>
        <p>The curious phrases of the Irish sounded harshly upon
my ear, probably because they were strange to me. I
lost no time, on reaching the city, in seeking out some to
whom I had letters of introduction, one of whom gave me
an invitation to make his house my home during my stay,
—an invitation which I did not think fit to decline.</p>
        <p>Dublin, the metropolis of Ireland, is a city of above
two hundred thousand inhabitants, and is considered by
the people of Ireland to be the second city in the British
empire. The Liffey, which falls into Dublin Bay a
little below the custom-house, divides the town into two
nearly equal parts. The streets are—some of them—very
fine, especially Sackville-street, in the centre of
which stands a pillar erected to Nelson, England's most
distinguished naval commander. The Bank of Ireland,
to which I paid a visit, is a splendid building, and was
formerly the Parliament House. This magnificent edifice
fronts College Green, and near at hand stands a bronze
statue of William III. The Bank and the Custom-House
are two of the finest monuments of architecture
in the city; the latter of which stands near the river
Liffey, and its front makes an imposing appearance,
extending three hundred and seventy-five feet. It is
built of Portland stone, and is adorned with a beautiful
portico in the centre, consisting of four Doric columns,
supporting an enriched entablature, decorating with a
group of figures in alto-relievo, representing Hibernia
and Britannia presenting emblems of peace and liberty.
A magnificent dome, supporting a cupola, on whose apex
<pb id="brown44" n="44"/>
stands a colossal figure of Hope, rises nobly from the
centre of the building to a height of one hundred and
twenty-five feet. It is, withal, a fine specimen of what
man can do.</p>
        <p>From this noble edifice we bent our steps to another
part of the city, and soon found ourselves in the vicinity
of St. Patrick's, where we had a heart-sickening view of
the poorest of the poor. All the recollections of poverty
which I had ever beheld seemed to disappear in comparison
with what was then before me. We passed a
filthy and noisy market, where fruit and vegetable
women were screaming and begging those passing by to
purchase their commodities; while in and about the
market-place were throngs of beggars fighting for rotten
fruit, cabbage-stocks, and even the very trimmings of
vegetables. On the side-walks were great numbers
hovering about the doors of the more wealthy, and following
strangers, importuning them for “pence to buy
bread.” Sickly and emaciated looking creatures, half
naked, were at our heels at every turn.</p>
        <p>In our return home, we passed through a respectable-looking
street, in which stands a small three-story brick
building, that was pointed out to us as the birthplace of
Thomas Moore, the poet. The following verse from one
of his poems was continually in my mind while viewing
this house:
<q type="verse" direct="unspecified"><lg type="verse"><l>“Where is the slave so lowly,</l><l>Condemned to chains unholy,</l><l>Who, could he burst</l><l>His bonds at first,</l><l>Would pine beneath them slowly?”</l></lg></q></p>
        <pb id="brown45" n="45"/>
        <p>The next day was the Sabbath, but it had more the
appearance of a holiday than a day of rest. It had been
announced the day before that the royal fleet was expected,
and at an early hour on Sunday the entire town
seemed to be on the move towards Kingstown, and, as
the family with whom I was staying followed the multitude,
I was not inclined to remain behind, and so went
with them. On reaching the station, we found it utterly
impossible to get standing room in any of the trains,
much less a seat, and therefore determined to reach
Kingstown under the plea of a morning's walk; and in
this we were not alone, for during the walk of five miles
the road was filled with thousands of pedestrians, and
a countless number of carriages, phaëtons, and vehicles of
a more humble order.</p>
        <p>We reached the lower town in time to get a good
dinner, and rest ourselves before going to make further
searches for her majesty's fleet. At a little past four
o'clock, we observed the multitude going towards the pier,
a number of whom were yelling, at the top of their voices,
“It's coming, it's coming!” but on going to the quay
we found that a false alarm had been given. However,
we had been on the look-out but a short time, when a
column or smoke, rising, as it were, out of the sea,
announced that the royal fleet was near at hand. The
concourse in the vicinity or the pier was variously estimated
at from eighty to one hundred thousand.</p>
        <p>It was not long before, the five steamers were entering
the harbor, the one bearing her majesty leading the way
<pb id="brown46" n="46"/>
As each vessel had a number of distinguished persons on
board, the people appeared to be at a loss to know which
was the queen; and as each party made its appearance
on the promenade deck, they were received with great
enthusiasm, the party having the best-looking lady being
received with the greatest applause. The Prince of
Wales, and Prince Alfred, while crossing the deck were
recognized, and greeted with three cheers; the former,
taking off his hat and bowing to the people, showed that
he had had some training as a public man, although not
ten years of age. But not so with Prince Alfred; for,
when his brother turned to him and asked him to take
off his hat, and make a bow to the people, he shook his
head, and said, “No.” This was received with hearty
laughter by those on board, and was responded to by the
thousands on shore. But greater applause was yet in
store for the young prince; for the captain of the
steamer being near by, and seeing that the Prince of
Wales could not prevail on his brother to take off his hat,
stepped up to him and undertook to take it off for him,
when, seemingly to the delight of all, the prince put both
hands to his head, and held his hat fast. This was
regarded as a sign of courage and future renown, and
was received with the greatest enthusiasm, many crying
out, “Good, good! he will make a brave king when his
day comes.”</p>
        <p>After the greetings and applause had been wasted on
many who had appeared on deck, all at once, as if by
some magic power, we beheld a lady, rather small in
<pb id="brown47" n="47"/>
stature, with auburn hair, attired in a plain dress, and
wearing a sky-blue bonnet, standing on the larboard
paddle-box, by the side of a tall, good-looking man, with
a mustache. The thunders of applause that now rent the
air, and cries of “The queen, the queen!” seemed to
set at rest the question of which was her majesty. But
a few moments were allowed to the people to look at the
queen, before she again disappeared; and it was understood
that she would not be seen again that evening. A
rush was then made for the railway, to return to Dublin.</p>
        <p>The seventh of August was a great day in Dublin.
At an early hour the bells began their merry peals, and
the people were soon seen in groups in the streets and
public squares. The hour of ten was fixed for the procession
to leave Kingstown, and it was expected to enter
the city at eleven. The windows of the houses in the
streets through which the royal train was to pass were
at a premium, and seemed to find ready occupants.</p>
        <p>Being invited the day previous to occupy part of a
window in Sackville-street,, I was stationed at my allotted
place at an early hour, with an outstretched neck
and open eyes. My own color differing from those about
me, I attracted not a little attention from many; and
often, when gazing down the street to see if the royal
procession was in sight, would find myself eyed by all
around. But neither while at the window or in the
streets was I once insulted. This was so unlike the
American prejudice, that it seemed strange to me. It
<pb id="brown48" n="48"/>
was near twelve o'clock before the procession entered
Sackville-street, and when it did eyes seemed to beam
with delight. The first carriage contained only her
majesty and the Prince Consort; the second the royal
children, and the third the lords in waiting. Fifteen
carriages were used by those that made up the royal
party. I had a full view of the queen and all who
followed in the train. Her majesty—whether from
actual love for her person, or the novelty of the occasion,
I know not which—was received everywhere with the
greatest enthusiasm. One thing, however, is certain,
and that is, Queen Victoria is beloved by her
subjects.</p>
        <p>But the grand <hi rend="italics">fête</hi> was reserved for the evening.
Great preparations had been made to have a grand illumination
on the occasion, and hints were thrown out that
it would surpass anything every witnessed in London. In
this they were not far out of the way; for all who
witnessed the scene admitted that it could scarcely have
been surpassed. My own idea of an illumination, as I
had seen it in the back-woods of my native land, dwindled
into nothing when compared with this magnificent
affair.</p>
        <p>In the company with few friends, and a lady under my
charge, I undertook to pass through Sackville and one
or two other streets about eight o'clock in the evening,
but we found it utterly impossible to proceed. Masses
thronged the streets, and the wildest enthusiasm seemed
to prevail. In our attempt to cross the bridge, we were
<pb id="brown49" n="49"/>
wedged in and lost our companions; and on one occasion
I was separated from the lady, and took shelter under a
cart standing in the street. After being jammed and
pulled about for nearly two hours, I returned to my
lodgings, where I found part of my company, who
had come in one after another. At eleven o'clock we
had all assembled, and each told his adventures and
“hair-breadth escapes;” and nearly every one had lost
a pocket-handkerchief or something of the kind; my own
was among the missing. However, I lost nothing; for a
benevolent lady, who happened to be one of the company,
presented me with one which was of far more value than
the one I had lost.</p>
        <p>Every one appeared to enjoy the holiday which the
royal visit had caused. But the Irish are indeed a
strange people. How varied their aspect, how contradictory
their character! Ireland, the land of genius
and degradation, of great resources and unparalleled
poverty, noble deeds and the most revolting crimes, the
land of distinguished poets, splendid orators, and the
bravest of soldiers, the land of ignorance and beggary!
Dublin is a splendid city, but its splendor is that of
chiselled marble rather than real life. One cannot
behold these architectural monuments without thinking
of the great men that Ireland has produced. The names
of Burke, Sheridan, Flood, Grattan, O'Connell and
Shiel, have become as familiar to the Americans as
household words. Burke is known as the statesman;
Sheridan for his great speech on the trial of Warren
<pb id="brown50" n="50"/>
Hastings; Grattan for his eloquence; O'Connell as the
agitator, and Shiel as the accomplished orator.</p>
        <p>But, of Ireland's sons, none stands higher in America
than Thomas Moore, the poet. The vigor of his sarcasm,
the glow of his enthusiasm, the coruscations of his fancy,
and the flashing of his wit, seem to be as well understood
in the New World as the Old; and the support which his
pen has given to civil and religious liberty throughout
in the world entitles the Minstrel of Erin to this elevated
position.</p>
      </div1>
      <div1 type="chapter">
        <pb id="brown51" n="51"/>
        <head>CHAPTER III.</head>
        <epigraph>
          <lg type="verse">
            <l>“There is no other land like thee,</l>
            <l>No dearer shore;</l>
            <l>Thou art the shelter of the free,—</l>
            <l>The home, the port of Liberty.”</l>
          </lg>
        </epigraph>
        <p>AFTER a pleasant sojourn of three weeks in Ireland,
I took passage in one of the mail-steamers for Liverpool,
and, arriving there, was soon on the road to the metropolis.
The passage from Dublin to Liverpool was an
agreeable one. The rough sea that we passed through
on going to Ireland had given way to a dead calm; and
our noble little steamer, on quitting the Dublin wharf,
seemed to understand that she was to have it all her own
way. During the first part of the evening, the boat
appeared to feel her importance, and, darting through
the water with majestic strides, she left behind her a
dark cloud of smoke suspended in the air like a banner;
while, far astern in the wake of the vessel, could be seen
the rippled waves sparkling in the rays of the moon,
giving strength and beauty to the splendor of the evening.</p>
        <p>On reaching Liverpool, and partaking of a good
breakfast, for which we paid double price, we proceeded
<pb id="brown52" n="52"/>
to the railway station; and were soon going at a rate
unknown to those accustomed to travel only on American
railways. At a little past two o'clock in the afternoon
we saw in the distance the outskirts of London. We
could get but an indistinct view, which had the appearance
of one architectural mass, extending all round to
the horizon, and enveloped in a combination of fog and
smoke; and towering above every other object to be seen
was the dome of St. Paul's Cathedral.</p>
        <p>A few moments more, and we were safely seated in a
“Hansom's Patent,” and on our way to Hughes's—one
of the politest men of the George Fox stamp we have
ever met. Here we found forty or fifty persons, who,
like ourselves, were bound for the Peace Congress. The
Sturges, the Wighams, the Richardsons, the Allens, the
Thomases, and a host of others not less distinguished as
friends of peace, were of the company—of many of whom
I had heard, but none of whom I had ever seen; yet I
was not an entire stranger to many, especially to the
abolitionists. In company with a friend, I sallied forth
after tea to take a view of the city. The evening was
fine—the dense fog and smoke, having to some extent
passed away, left the stars shining brightly, while the
gas-light from the street-lamps and the brilliant shop-windows
gave it the appearance of day-light in a new
form. “What street is this?” we asked. “Cheapside,”
was the reply. The street was thronged, and everybody
seemed to be going at a rapid rate, as if there was something
of importance at the end of the journey. Flying
<pb id="brown53" n="53"/>
vehicles of every description passing each other with a
dangerous rapidity, men with lovely women at their
sides, children running about as if they had lost their
parents—all gave a brilliancy to the scene scarcely to
be excelled. If one wished to get jammed and pushed
about, he need go no further than Cheapside. But
everything of the kind is done with a degree of propriety
in London that would put the New Yorkers to blush.
If you are run over in London, they “beg your pardon;”
if they run over you in New York, you are “laughed at:”
in London, if your hat is knocked off it is picked up
and handed to you; if in New York, you must pick it
up yourself. There is a lack of good manners among
Americans that is scarcely known or understood in Europe.
Our stay in the great metropolis gave us but
little opportunity of seeing much of the place; for in
twenty-four hours after our arrival we joined the rest
of the delegates, and started on our visit to our Gallic
neighbors.</p>
        <p>We assembled at the London Bridge Railway Station,
a few minutes past nine, to the number of six hundred.
The day was fine, and every eye seemed to glow with
enthusiasm. Besides the delegates, there were probably
not less than six hundred more, who had come to see the
company start. We took our seats, and appeared to be
waiting for nothing but the iron-horse to be fastened to
the train, when all at once we were informed that we
must go to the booking-office and change our tickets. At
this news every one appeared to be vexed. This caused
<pb id="brown54" n="54"/>
great trouble; for, on returning to the train, many persons
got into the wrong carriages; and several parties
were separated from their friends, while not a few were
calling out, at the top of their voices, “Where is my
wife! Where is my husband? Where is my luggage?
Who's got my boy? Is this the right train?” “What
is that lady going to do with all these children?” asked
the guard. “Is she a delegate? are all the children
delegates?” In the carriage where I had taken my seat
was a good-looking lady, who gave signs of being very
much annoyed. “It is just so when I am going anywhere:
I never saw the like in my life!” said she. “I
really wish I was at home again.”</p>
        <p>An hour had now elapsed, and we were still at the
station. However, we were soon on our way, and going
at express speed. In passing through Kent we enjoyed
the scenery exceedingly, as the weather was altogether in
our favor; and the drapery which nature hung on the
trees, in the part through which we passed, was in all its
gayety. On our arrival at Folkstone, we found three
steamers in readiness to convey the party to Boulogne.
As soon as the train stopped, a general rush was made
for the steamers, and in a very short time the one in
which I had embarked was passing out of the harbor.
The boat appeared to be conscious that we were going on
a holy mission, and seemed to be proud of her load.
There is nothing in this wide world so like a thing of life
as a steamer, from the breathing of her steam and smoke,
the energy of her motion, and the beauty of her shape;
<pb id="brown55" n="55"/>
while the ease with which she is managed by the command
of a single voice makes her appear as obedient as
the horse is to the rein.</p>
        <p>When we were about half way between the two great
European powers, the officer began to gather the tickets.
The first to whom he applied, and who handed out his
“Excursion Ticket,” was informed that we were all in
the wrong boat. “Is this not one of the boats to take
over the delegates?” asked a pretty little lady, with a
whining voice. “No, madam,” said the captain. “You
must look to the committee for your pay,” said one of the
company to the captain. “I have nothing to do with
committees,” the captain replied. “Your fare, gentlemen,
if you please.”</p>
        <p>Here the whole party were again thrown into confusion.
“Do you hear that? We are in the wrong boat.”
“I knew it would be so,” said Rev. Dr. Ritchie, of
Edinburgh. “It is indeed a pretty piece of work,” said
a plain-looking lady in a handsome bonnet. “When I
go travelling again,” said an elderly-looking gent, with
an eye-glass to his face, “I will take the phaëton and old
Dobbin.” Every one seemed to lay the blame on the
committee, and not, too, without some just grounds.
However, Mr. Sturge, one of the committee, being in the
boat with us, an arrangement was entered into by which
we were not compelled to pay our fare the second time.</p>
        <p>As we neared the French coast, the first object that
attracted our attention was the Napoleon Pillar, on the
top of which is a statue of the emperor in the imperial
<pb id="brown56" n="56"/>
robes. We landed, partook of refreshment that had been
prepared for us, and again repaired to the railway station.
The arrangements for leaving Boulogne were no better
than those at London. But after the delay of another
hour we were again in motion.</p>
        <p>It was a beautiful country through which we passed
from Boulogne to Amiens. Straggling cottages which
bespeak neatness and comfort abound on every side. The
eye wanders over the diversified views with unabated
pleasure, and rests in calm repose upon its superlative
beauty. Indeed, the eye cannot but be gratified at viewing
the entire country from the coast to the metropolis.
Sparkling hamlets spring up, as the steam-horse speeds his
way, at almost every point, showing the progress of civilization,
and the refinement of the nineteenth century.</p>
        <p>We arrived at Paris a few minutes past twelve o'clock
at night, when, according to our tickets, we should have
been there at nine. Elihu Burritt, who had been in
Paris some days, and who had the arrangements there
pretty much his own way, and was at the station waiting the
arrival of the train, and we had demonstrated to us the
best evidence that he understood his business. In no
other place on the whole route had the affairs been so
well managed; for we were seated in our respective carriages
and our luggage placed on the top, and away we
went to our hotels, without the least difficulty or inconvenience.
The champion of an “Ocean Penny Postage”
received, as he deserved, thanks from the whole company
for his admirable management.</p>
        <pb id="brown57" n="57"/>
        <p>The silence of the night was only disturbed by the
rolling of the wheels of the omnibus, as we passed through
the dimly-lighted streets. Where, a few months before,
was to be seen the flash from the cannon and the musket,
and the hearing of the cries and groans behind the barricades,
was now the stillness of death—nothing save here
and there a <foreign id="fre"><hi rend="italics">gens d'arme</hi></foreign> was to be seen going his
rounds in silence.</p>
        <p>The omnibus set us down at the hotel Bedford, Rue de
L'Card, where, although near one o'clock, we found a
good supper waiting for us; and, as I was not devoid of
an appetite, I did my share towards putting it out of the
way.</p>
        <p>The next morning I was up at an early hour, and out
on the Boulevards to see what might be seen. As I was
passing from the hotel to the Place de La Concord, all at
once, and as if by some magic power, I found myself in
front of the most splendid edifice imaginable, situated at
the end of the Rue Nationale. Seeing a number of persons
entering the church at that early hour, and recognizing
among them my friend the President of the
Oberlin (Ohio) Institute, and wishing not to stray too
far from my hotel before breakfast, I followed the crowd
and entered the building. The church itself consisted of
a vast nave, interrupted by four pews on each side,
fronted with lofty fluted Corinthian columns standing on
pedestals, supporting colossal arches, bearing up cupolas
pierced with skylights and adorned with compartments
gorgeously gilt; their corners supported with saints and
<pb id="brown58" n="58"/>
apostles in <hi rend="italics">alto relievo.</hi> The walls of the church were
lined with rich marble, The different paintings and
figures gave the interior an imposing appearance. On
inquiry, I found that I was in the Church of the
Madeleine. It was near this spot that some of the
most interesting scenes occurred during the Revolution
of 1848, which dethroned Louis Philippe. Behind the
Madeleine is a small but well-supplied market; and on
an esplanade east of the edifice a flower-market is held
on Tuesdays and Fridays.</p>
        <p>At eleven o'clock the same day, the Peace Congress
met in the Salle St. Cecile, Rue de la St.
Lazare. The Parisians have no “Exeter Hall;” in
fact, there is no private hall in the city of any size,
save this, where such a meeting could be held. This
hall had been fitted up for the occasion. The room
is long, and at one end has a raised platform; and at the
opposite end is a gallery, with seats raised one above
another. On one side of the hall was a balcony with
sofas, which were evidently the “reserved seats.”</p>
        <p>The hall was filled at an early hour with the delegates,
their friends, and a good sprinkling of the French.
Occasionally, small groups of gentlemen would make
their appearance on the platform, until it soon appeared
that there was little room left for others; and yet the
officers of the Convention had not come in. The different
countries were, many of them, represented here.
England, France, Belgium, Germany, Switzerland,
Greece, Spain, and the United States, had each their
<pb id="brown59" n="59"/>
delegates. The assembly began to give signs of impatience,
when very soon the train of officials made their
appearance amid great applause. Victor Hugo led the
way, followed by M. Duguerry, curé of the Madeleine,
Elihu Burritt, and a host of others of less note. Victor
Hugo took the chair as President of the Congress, supported
by vice-presidents from the several nations represented.
Mr. Richard, the secretary, read a dry report
of the names of societies, committees, etc., which was
deemed the opening of the Convention.</p>
        <p>The president then arose, and delivered one of the
most impressive and eloquent appeals in favor of peace
that could possibly be imagined. The effect produced
upon the minds of all present was such as to make the
author of “<hi rend="italics">Notre Dame de Paris</hi>” a great favorite
with the Congress. An English gentleman near me said
to his friend, “I can't understand a word of what he
says, but is it not good?” Victor Hugo concluded his
speech amid the greatest enthusiasm on the part of the
French, which was followed by hurras in the old English
style. The Convention was successively addressed
by the President of the Brussels Peace Society; President
Mahan, of the Oberlin (Ohio) Institute, U. S.;
Henry Vincent; and Richard Cobden. The latter was
not only the <hi rend="italics">lion</hi> of the English delegation, but the
great man of the Convention. When Mr. Cobden speaks
there is no want of hearers. The great power of
this gentleman lies in his facts and his earnestness, for
he cannot be called an eloquent speaker. Mr. Cobden
<pb id="brown60" n="60"/>
addressed the Congress first in French, then in English;
and, with the single exception of Mr. Ewart, M.P.,
was the only one of the English delegation that could
speak to the French in their own language.</p>
        <p>The first day's proceedings were brought to a close at
five o'clock, when the numerous audience dispersed—the
citizens to their homes, and the delegates to see the
sights.</p>
        <p>I was not a little amused at an incident that occurred
at the close of the first session. On the passage from
America, there were in the same steamer with me several
Americans, and among these three or four appeared
to be much annoyed at the fact that I was a passenger,
and enjoying the company of white persons; and, although
I was not openly insulted, I very often heard the
remark, that “That nigger had better be on his master's
farm,” and “What could the American Peace Society
be thinking about, to send a black man as a delegate to
Paris?” Well, at the close of the first sitting of the
convention, and just as I was leaving Victor Hugo, to
whom I had been introduced by an M. P., I observed
near me a gentleman with his hat in hand, whom I
recognized as one of the passengers who had crossed the
Atlantic with me in the Canada, and who appeared to
be the most horrified at having a negro for a fellow-passenger.
This gentleman, as I left M. Hugo, stepped up
to me and said, “How do you do, Mr. Brown?” “You
have the advantage of me,” said I. “O, don't you
know me? I was a fellow-passenger with you from
<pb id="brown61" n="61"/>
America; I wish you would give me an introduction to
Victor Hugo and Mr. Cobden.” I need not inform you
that I declined introducing this pro-slavery American to
these distinguished men. I only allude to this, to show
what a change came over the dreams of my white American
brother by crossing the ocean. The man who would
not have been seen walking with me in the streets of
New York, and who would not have shaken hands with
me with a pair of tongs while on the passage from the
United States, could come with hat in hand in Paris,
and say, “I was your fellow-passenger.” From the
Salle de St. Cecile, I visited the Column Vendome, from
the top of which I obtained a fine view of Paris and its
environs. This is the Bunker Hill Monument of Paris.
On the top of this pillar is a statue of the Emperor
Napoleon, eleven feet high. The monument is built
with stone, and the outside covered with a metallic composition,
made of cannons, guns, spikes, and other warlike
implements taken from the Russians and Austrians
by Napoleon. Above twelve hundred cannons were
melted down to help to create this monument of folly, to
commemorate the success of the French arms in the German
campaign. The column is in imitation of the Trajan
pillar at Rome, and is twelve feet in diameter at the
base. The door at the bottom of the pillar, and where
we entered, was decorated above with crowns of oak,
surmounted by eagles, each weighing five hundred
pounds. The bas-relief of the shaft pursues a spiral
direction to the top, and displays, in a chronological
<pb id="brown62" n="62"/>
order, the principal actions of the French army, from
the departure of the troops from Boulogne to the battle
of Austerlitz. The figures are near three feet high, and
their number said to be two thousand. This sumptuous
monument stands on a plinth of polished granite, surmounted
by an iron railing; and, from its size and position,
has an imposing appearance when seen from any
part of the city.</p>
        <p>Everything here appears strange and peculiar—the
people not less so than their speech. The horses, carriages,
furniture, dress and manners, are in keeping
with their language. The appearance of the laborers
in caps, resembling night-caps, seemed particularly
strange to me. The women without bonnets, and their
caps turned the right side behind, had nothing of the
look of our American women. The prettiest woman I
ever saw was without a bonnet, walking on the Boulevards.
While in Ireland, and during the few days I
was in England, I was struck with the marked difference
between the appearance of the women and those of my
own country. The American women are too tall, too
sallow, and too long-featured, to be called pretty. This
is most probably owing to the fact that in America the
people come to maturity earlier than in most other
countries.</p>
        <p>My first night in Paris was spent with interest. No
place can present greater street attractions than the
Boulevards of Paris. The countless number of cafés,
with tables before the doors, and these surrounded by
<pb id="brown63" n="63"/>
men with long moustaches, with ladies at their sides,
whose very smiles give indication of happiness, together
with the sound of music from the gardens in the rear,
tell the stranger that he is in a different country from
his own.</p>
      </div1>
      <div1 type="chapter">
        <pb id="brown64" n="64"/>
        <head>CHAPTER IV.</head>
        <epigraph>
          <lg type="verse">
            <l>“——A town of noble fame,</l>
            <l>Where monuments are found in ancient guise,</l>
            <l>Where kings and queens in pomp did long abide,</l>
            <l>And where God pleased that good King Louis died.”</l>
          </lg>
        </epigraph>
        <p>AFTER the Convention had finished its sittings yesterday,
I accompanied Mrs. C——and sisters to Versailles,
where they are residing during the summer. It was
really pleasing to see among the hundreds of strange
faces in the Convention those distinguished friends of the
slave from Boston.</p>
        <p>Mrs. C——'s residence is directly in front of the
great palace where so many kings have made their
homes, the prince of whom was Louis XIV. The palace
is now unoccupied. No ruler has dared to take up his
residence here since Louis XVI. and Marie Antoinette
were driven from it by the mob from Paris on the eighth
of October, 1789. The town looks like the wreck of what
it once was. At the commencement of the first revolution,
it contained one hundred thousand inhabitants; now it
has only about thirty thousand. It seems to be going
back to what it was in the time of Louis XIII., when, in
1624, he built a small brick chateau, and from it arose
<pb id="brown65" n="65"/>
the magnificent palace which now stands here, and which
attracts strangers to it from all parts of the world.</p>
        <p>I arose this morning at an early hour, and took a
walk through the grounds of the palace, and remained
three hours among the fountains and statuary of this
more than splendid place. At ten o'clock we again
returned to Paris, to the Peace Congress.</p>
        <p>The session was opened by a speech from M. Coquerel,
the Protestant clergyman in Paris. His speech was
received with much applause, and seemed to create great
sensation in the Congress, especially at the close of his
remarks, when he was seized by the hand by the Abbe
Duguerry, amid the most deafening and enthusiastic applause
of the entire multitude. The meeting was then
addressed in English by a short gentleman, of florid complexion.
His words seemed to come without the least
difficulty, and his gestures, though somewhat violent,
were evidently studied; and the applause with which he
was greeted by the English delegation showed that he
was a man of no little distinction among them. His
speech was one continuous flow of rapid, fervid eloquence,
that seemed to fire every heart; and although I disliked
his style, I was prepossessed in his favor. This was
Henry Vincent, and his speech was in favor of
disarmament.</p>
        <p>Mr. Vincent was followed by M. Emile de Girardin,
the editor of <hi rend="italics">La Presse</hi>, in one of the most eloquent
speeches that I ever heard; and his exclamation of
“Soldiers of Peace” drew thunders of applause from
<pb id="brown66" n="66"/>
his own countrymen. M. Girardin is not only the leader
of the French press, but is a writer on politics of great
distinction, and a leader of no inconsiderable party in the
National Assembly; although still a young man, apparently
not more than thirty-eight or forty years of
age.</p>
        <p>After a speech from Mr. Ewart, M. P., in French,
and another from Mr. Cobden in the same language, the
Convention was brought to a close for the day. I spent
the morning yesterday in visiting some of the lions of the
French capital, among which was the Louvre. The
French government having kindly ordered that the
members of the Peace Congress should be admitted free,
and without ticket, to all the public works, I had nothing
to do but present my card of membership, and was immediately
admitted.</p>
        <p>The first room I entered was nearly a quarter of a
mile in length; is known as the “Long Gallery,” and
contains some of the finest paintings in the world.
On entering this superb palace, my first impression was
that all Christendom had been robbed, that the Louvre
might make a splendid appearance. This is the Italian
department, and one would suppose by its appearance
that but few paintings had been left in Italy. The
entrance end of the Louvre was for a long time in an
unfinished state, but was afterwards completed by that
master workman, the Emperor Napoleon. It was long
thought that the building would crumble into decay, but
the genius of the great Corsican rescued it from ruin.</p>
        <pb id="brown67" n="67"/>
        <p>During our walk through the Louvre, we saw some
twenty or thirty artists copying paintings; some had
their copies finished and were going out, others half
done, while many had just commenced. I remained some
minutes near a pretty French girl, who was copying a
painting of a dog rescuing a child from a stream of water
into which it had fallen.</p>
        <p>I walked down one side of the hall and up the other,
and was about leaving, when I was informed that this was
only one room, and that a half-dozen more were at my
service; but a clock on a neighboring church reminded
me that I must quit the Louvre for the Salle de St.
Cecile.</p>
        <p>At the meeting of the third session of the Congress, the
hall was filled at an early hour with rather a more
fashionable-looking audience than on any former occasion,
and all appeared anxious for its commencement, as it was
understood to be the last day. After the reading of
several letters from gentlemen, apologizing for their not
being not being able to attend, the speech of Elihu Burritt
was read by a son of M. Coquerel. I felt somewhat astonished
that my countryman, who was said to be master of
fifty languages, had to get some one to read his speech
in French.</p>
        <p>The Abbé Duguerry now came forward amid great
cheering, and said that “the eminent journalist, Girardin,
and the great English logician, Mr. Cobden, had
made it unnecessary for any further advocacy in that
<pb id="brown68" n="68"/>
assembly of the peace cause; that if the principles laid
down in the resolutions were carried out, the work would
be done. He said that the question of general pacification
was built on truth,—truth which emanated from
God,—and it were as vain to undertake to prevent air
from expanding as to check the progress of truth. It
must and would prevail.”</p>
        <p>A pale, thin-faced gentleman next ascended the platform
(or tribune, as it was called) amid shouts of applause
from the English, and began his speech in rather
a low tone, when compared with the sharp voice of Vincent,
or the thunder of the Abbé Duguerry. An audience
is not apt to be pleased or even contented with an
inferior speaker, when surrounded by eloquent men, and
I looked every moment for manifestations of disapprobation,
as I felt certain that the English delegation had
made a mistake in applauding this gentleman, who
seemed to make such an unpromising beginning. But the
speaker soon began to get warm on the subject, and even
at times appeared as if be had spoken before. In a very
short time, with the exception of his own voice, the stillness
of death prevailed throughout the building, and the
speaker delivered one of the most logical speeches made
in the Congress, and, despite of his thin, sallow look,
interested me much more than any whom I had before
heard. Towards the close of his remarks, he was several
times interrupted by manifestations of approbation; and
finally concluded amid great cheering. I inquired the
<pb id="brown69" n="69"/>
gentleman's name, and was informed that it was Edward
Miall, editor of the <hi rend="italics">Nonconformist.</hi></p>
        <p>After speeches from several others, the great Peace
Congress of 1849, which had brought men together from
nearly all the governments of Europe, and many from
America, was brought to a final close by a speech from
the president, returning thanks for the honor that had
been conferred upon him. He said: “My address shall
be short, and yet I have to bid you adieu! How resolve
to do so? Here, during three days, have questions of
the deepest import been discussed, examined, probed to
the bottom; and during these discussions counsels have
been given to governments which they will do well to
profit by. If these days' sittings are attended with no
other result, they will be the means of sowing in the
minds of those present germs of cordiality which must
ripen into good fruit. England, France, Belgium,
Europe and America, would all be drawn closer by these
sittings. Yet the moment to part has arrived, but I can
feel that we are strongly united in heart. But, before
parting, I may congratulate you and myself on the
result of our proceedings. We have been all joined
together without distinction of country; we have all been
united in one common feeling during our three days'
communion. The good work cannot go back; it must
advance, it must be accomplished. The course of the
future may be judged of by the sound of the footsteps of
the past. In the course of that day's discussion, a reminiscence
had been handed up to one of the speakers, that
<pb id="brown70" n="70"/>
this was the anniversary of the dreadful massacre of St.
Bartholomew: the reverend gentleman who was speaking
turned away from the thought of that sanguinary scene
with pious horror, natural to his sacred calling. But I,
who may boast of firmer nerve, I take up the remembrance.
Yes, it was on this day, two hundred and
seventy-seven years ago, that Paris was roused from
slumber by the sound of that bell which bore the name
of <foreign lang="fre"><hi rend="italics">cloche d'argent.</hi></foreign> Massacre was on foot, seeking
with keen eye for its victim; man was busy in slaying
man. That slaughter was called forth by mingled passions
of the worst description. Hatred of all kinds was
there urging on the slayer,—hatred of a religious, a
political, a personal character. And yet on the anniversary
of that same day of horror, and in that very city
whose blood was flowing like water, has God this day
given a rendezvous to men of peace, whose wild tumult is
transformed into order, and animosity into love. The
stain of blood is blotted out, and in its place beams forth
a ray of holy light. All distinctions are removed, and
Papist and Huguenot meet together in friendly
communion. (Loud cheers.) Who that thinks of these
amazing changes can doubt of the progress that has been
made But whoever denies the force of progress must
deny God, since progress is the boon of Providence,
and emanated from the great Being above. I feel gratified
for the change that has been effected, and, pointing
solemnly to the past, I say let this day be ever held
memorable; let the twenty-fourth of August, 1572,
<pb id="brown71" n="71"/>
be remembered only for the purpose of being compared
with the twenty-fourth of August, 1849; and when we
think of the latter, and ponder over the high purpose to
which it has been devoted,—the advocacy of the principles
of peace,—let us not be so wanting in reliance on
Providence as to doubt for one moment of the eventual
success of our holy cause.”</p>
        <p>The most enthusiastic cheers followed this interesting
speech. A vote of thanks to the government, and three
times three cheers, with Mr. Cobden as “fugleman,”
ended the great Peace Congress of 1849.</p>
        <p>Time for separating had arrived, yet all seemed unwilling
to leave the place, where, for three days, men of
all creeds and of no creed had met upon one common
platform. In one sense the meeting was a glorious one,
in another it was mere child's play; for the Congress had
been restricted to the discussion of certain topics. They
were permitted to dwell on the blessings of peace, but
were not allowed to say anything about the very subjects
above all others that should have been brought before the
Congress. A French army had invaded Rome and put
down the friends of political and religious freedom, yet
not a word was said in reference to it. The fact is, the
committee permitted the Congress to be gagged before
it had met. They put padlocks upon their own mouths,
and handed the keys to the government. And this was
sorely felt by many of the speakers. Richard Cobden,
who had thundered his anathemas against the corn-laws
of his own country, and against wars in every clime, had
<pb id="brown72" n="72"/>
to sit quiet in his fetters. Henry Vincent, who can
make a louder speech in favor of peace than almost any
other man, and whose denunciations of “all war,” have
gained him no little celebrity with peace men, had to
confine himself to the blessings of peace. O, how I
wished for a Massachusetts atmosphere, a New England
convention platform, with Wendell Phillips as the
speaker, before that assembled multitude from all parts
of the world!</p>
        <p>But the Congress is over, and cannot now be made
different; yet it is to be hoped that neither the London
Peace Committee, nor any other men having the charge
of getting up such another great meeting, will commit
such an error again.</p>
      </div1>
      <div1 type="chapter">
        <pb id="brown73" n="73"/>
        <head>CHAPTER V.</head>
        <epigraph>
          <q type="verse" direct="unspecified">
            <lg type="verse">
              <l>“Man, on the dubious waves of error tossed,</l>
              <l>His ship half foundered, and his compass lost,</l>
              <l>Sees, far as human optics may command,</l>
              <l>A sleeping fog, and fancies it dry land.”</l>
              <signed>COWPER.</signed>
            </lg>
          </q>
        </epigraph>
        <p>THE day after the close of the Congress, the delegates
and their friends were invited to a soirée by M. de
Tocqueville, Minister for Foreign Affairs, to take place
on the next evening (Saturday); and, as my colored
face and curly hair did not prevent ray getting an invitation,
I was present with the rest of my peace brethren.</p>
        <p>Had I been in America, where color is considered a
crime, I would not have been seen at such a gathering,
unless as a servant. In company with several delegates,
we left the Bedford Hotel for the mansion of the Minister
of Foreign Affairs; and, on arriving, we found a file
of soldiers drawn up before the gate. This did not seem
much like peace: however, it was merely done in honor
of the company. We entered the building through
massive doors, and resigned ourselves into the hands of
good-looking waiters in white wigs; and, after our names
were duly announced, were passed from room to room,
<pb id="brown74" n="74"/>
till I was presented to Madame de Tocqueville, who was
standing near the centre of the large drawing-room, with
a bouquet in her hand. I was about passing on, when
the gentleman who introduced me intimated that I was 
an “American slave,” At the announcement of this
fact, the distinguished lady extended her hand and gave
me a cordial welcome, at the same time saying, “I
hope you feel yourself free in Paris.” Having accepted
an invitation to a seat by the lady's side, who seated
herself on a sofa, I was soon what I most dislike, “the
observed of all observers.” I recognized, among many
of my own countrymen who were gazing at me, the
American Consul, Mr. Walsh. My position did not improve
his looks. The company present on this occasion
were variously estimated at from one thousand to fifteen
hundred. Among these were the ambassadors from the
different countries represented at the French metropolis,
and many of the <hi rend="italics">élite</hi> of Paris. One could not but be
interested with the difference in dress, looks and manners,
of this assemblage of strangers, whose language was
as different as their general appearance. Delight seemed
to beam in every countenance, as the living stream floated
from one room to another. The house and gardens were
illuminated in the most gorgeous manner. Red, yellow,
blue, green, and many other colored lamps, suspended
from the branches of the trees in the gardens, gave life
and animation to the whole scene out of doors, The
soirée passed off satisfactorily to all parties; and by
twelve o'clock I was again at my hotel.</p>
        <pb id="brown75" n="75"/>
        <p>Through the politeness of the government the members
of the Congress have not only had the pleasure of
seeing all the public works free, and without special
ticket, but the palaces of Versailles and St. Cloud, together
with their splendid grounds, have been thrown
open, and the water-works set to playing in both places.
This mark of respect for the peace movement is commendable
in the French; and were I not such a strenuous
friend of free speech, this act would cause me to overlook
the padlocks that the government put upon our lips
in the Congress.</p>
        <p>Two long trains left Paris at nine o'clock for Versailles;
and at each of the stations the company were
loudly cheered by the people who had assembled to see
them pass. At Versailles we found thousands at the
station, who gave us a most enthusiastic, welcome. We
were blessed with a goodly number of the fair sex, who
always give life and vigor to such scenes. The train
had scarcely stopped, ere the great throng were wending
their ways in different directions,—some to the cafés to get
what an early start prevented their getting before leaving
Paris, and others to see the soldiers who were on
review. But most bent their steps towards the great
palace.</p>
        <p>At eleven o'clock we were summoned to the <foreign lang="fre"><hi rend="italics">déjeuner</hi></foreign>
which had been prepared by the English delegates in
honor of their American friends. About six hundred
sat down at the tables. Breakfast being ended, Mr.
Cobden was called to the chair, and several speeches
<pb id="brown76" n="76"/>
were made. Many who had not an opportunity to speak
at the Congress thought this a good chance; and the
written addresses which had been studied during the
passage from America, with the hope that they would
immortalize their authors before the Congress, were
produced at the breakfast-table. But speech-making was
not the order of the day. Too many thundering addresses
had been delivered in the Salle de St. Cecile to
allow the company to sit and hear dryly written and
worse delivered speeches in the Teniscourt.</p>
        <p>There was no limited time given to the speakers, yet
no one had been on his feet five minutes before the
cry was heard from all parts of the house, “Time,
time!” One American was hissed down; another took
his seat with a red face; and a third opened his bundle
of paper, looked around at the audience, made a bow,
and took his seat amid great applause. Yet some speeches
were made, and to good effect; the best of which was by
Elihu Burritt, who was followed by the Rev. James
Freeman Clarke. I regretted very much that the latter
did not deliver his address before the Congress, for he is
a man of no inconsiderable talent, and an acknowledged
friend of the slave.</p>
        <p>The cry of “The water-works are playing!” “The
water is on!” broke up the meeting, without even a vote
of thanks to the chairman; and the whole party were
soon revelling among the fountains and statues of Louis
XIV. Description would fail to give a just idea of the
grandeur and beauty of this splendid place. I do not
<pb id="brown77" n="77"/>
think that anything can surpass the fountain of Neptune,
which stands near the Grand Trianon. One may
easily get lost in wandering through the grounds of
Versailles, but he will always lie in sight of some life-like
statue. These monuments, erected to gratify the
fancy of a licentious king, wake their appearance at
every turn. Two lions, the one overturning a wild boar,
the other a wolf, both the production of Fillen, pointed
out to us the fountain of Diana. But I will not attempt
to describe to you any of the very beautiful sculptured
gods and goddesses here.</p>
        <p>With a single friend I paid a visit to the two Trianons.
The larger was, we were told, just as King Louis Philippe
left it. One room was splendidly fitted up for the reception
of Her Majesty Queen Victoria, who, it appeared,
had promised a visit to the French court ; but the
French monarch ran away from his throne before the
time arrived. The Grand Trianon is not larger than
many noblemen's seats that may be seen in a day's ride
through any part of the British empire. The building
has only a ground floor, but its proportions are very
elegant.</p>
        <p>We next paid our respects to the Little Trianon. This
appears to be the most republican of any of the French
palaces. I inspected this little palace with much
interest, not more for its beauty than because of its having
been the favorite residence of that purest of princesses,
and most affectionate of mothers, Marie Antoinette.
The grounds and building may be said to be only a
<pb id="brown78" n="78"/>
palace in miniature, and this makes it a still more lovely
spot. The building consists of a square pavilion two
stories high and separated entirely from the accessory
buildings, which are on the left, and among them a
pretty chapel. But a wish to be with the multitude,
who were roving among the fountains, cut short my visit
to the Trianons.</p>
        <p>The day was very fine, and the whole party seemed to
enjoy it. It was said that there were more than one
hundred thousand persons at Versailles during the day.
The company appeared to lose themselves with the pleasure
of walking among the trees, flower-beds, fountains,
and statues. I met more than one wife seeking a lost
husband, and <hi rend="italics">vice versa.</hi> Many persons were separated
from their friends, and did not meet them again till at
the hotels in Paris. In the train returning to Paris, an
old gentleman who was seated near me said, “I would
rest contented if I thought I should ever see my wife
again!”</p>
        <p>At four o'clock we were <hi rend="italics">en route</hi> to St. Cloud, the
much-loved and favorite residence of the Emperor
Napoleon. It seemed that all Paris had come out to St.
Cloud to see how the English and Americans would
enjoy the playing of the water-works. Many kings and
rulers of the French have made St. Cloud their residence,
but none have impressed their image so indelibly
upon it as Napoleon. It was here he was first elevated
to power, and here Josephine spent her most happy
hours.</p>
        <pb id="brown79" n="79"/>
        <p>The apartments where Napoleon was married to Marie
Louise, the private rooms of Josephine and Marie
Antoinette, were all in turn shown to us. While standing
on the balcony looking at Paris one cannot wonder
that the emperor should have selected this place as his
residence, for a more lovely spot cannot be found than
St. Cloud.</p>
        <p>The palace is on the side of a hill, two leagues from
Paris, and so situated that it looks down upon the French
capital. Standing, as we did, viewing Paris from St.
Cloud, and the setting sun reflecting upon the domes,
spires, and towers of the city of fashion, made us feel that
this was the place from which the monarch should watch
his subjects. From the hour of arrival at St. Cloud till
near eight o'clock, we were either inspect