Library of Congress Subject Headings, 21st edition, 1998

Languages Used:

• English

LC Subject Headings:

• Walters, Alexander, b. 1858.
• Slaves -- Kentucky -- Biography.
• African Americans -- Biography.
• African American clergy -- Biography.
• African Methodist Episcopal Zion Church -- Bishops -- Biography.
• African Methodist Episcopal Zion Church -- History.
• United Society of Christian Endeavor.

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[Cover Image]

[Spine Image]

Alexander Walters
[Frontispiece Image]

[Title Page Image]

[Title Page Verso Image]

MY LIFE AND WORK

BY

ALEXANDER WALTERS, A. M., D.D.
Bishop of the African Methodist Episcopal Zion Church

ILLUSTRATED

NEW YORK CHICAGO TORONTO
Fleming H. Revell Company
LONDON AND EDINBURGH

Copyright, 1917, by
FLEMING H. REVELL COMPANY
New York: 158 Fifth Avenue
Chicago: 17 North Wabash Ave.
Toronto: 25 Richmond Street, W.
London: 21 Paternoster Square
Edinburgh: 100 Princes Street

DEDICATION

TO THE
MINISTERS AND LAYMEN OF THE A. M. E. ZION CHURCH,
WHO HAVE BEEN SO VERY KIND TO ME
DURING MY MINISTERIAL CAREER,
I AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATE THIS VOLUME,
HOPING IT MAY BE OF BENEFIT TO
THE RISING GENERATION.

INTRODUCTION

        KING ALFONSO was wont to say, dead counsellors (meaning his books) were to him far better than living; for they without flattery or fear presented to him truth.

         There is no end of books; many libraries are purchased for sight and ostentation rather than use. Some one has cruelly observed that a good many people, including some of the newly rich, buy their books by the yard, and to match the furniture. A few books well chosen and well made use of will be more profitable than a great confused Alexandrian Library.

         Bishops as a rule have little time to write books, for their work is often of such character that they either cannot spare the time, or they have not the inclination to think or write upon subjects outside of their special work, and particularly is this true of some of our Negro Bishops. There are a few notable exceptions, such as Bishops Daniel A. Payne, Jas. W. Hood, Benjamin T. Tanner and Henry McNeal Turner. All of these are men of exceptional literary ability, men of strong characters, men with a message. They write well and learnedly on church polity and discipline and on related subjects. Payne, Hood, Tanner and Turner have done much to give character, prominence and tone to Negro Methodism in America.

Their books on Church History, Church Discipline, and Church Ethics have been and still are widely read. Tanner's apology for "African Methodism" cuts like a two-edged sword, for it is more than an apology--it is an indictment with all the evidence, against the caste and color prejudices of the white Methodist brethren--their refusal to acknowledge the Fatherhood of God, and the brotherhood of man. It detracts nothing from Negro Methodism, but it is a terrible reflection upon the genuineness of the religion of white men in that church. It is a protest against hypocrisy phrased in dignified terms, an "apology" with a punch and a jolt to it which those to whom it is specially addressed will not fail to understand. Payne and Hood and Turner also wrote in serious vein. Payne was velvet; Hood was a pacificator; Turner a whirlwind and Niagara combined. This quartette is still the principal authority in America on Negro Methodism, what constitutes it, and what ought to govern and control in this great Negro Methodist family. They are the pioneers in our later civilization of African Methodism and have written their names on the hearts and in the memories of thousands of Negro Methodists throughout the world as defenders and exponents of the faith once delivered unto the Saints.

         And now the Rt. Rev. Alexander Walters, the youngest Bishop in either branch of the great African Methodist Church, a man widely and favorably known in his own country, in Europe

and in Africa,--a man of recognized ability as an orator and pulpiteer of liberal ideas and generous impulses,--has written "The Autobiography of Alexander Walters," covering a period of forty years of activity in the church as layman, local preacher, minister and Bishop--the highest office in the gift of his Church. Forty years of active, useful, honorable service to his Creator, and to his race, and his country; forty years filled with thrilling and pleasant experiences--of lights and shadows--of ups and downs,--the lot of the average clergyman of every denomination. What a glory is this to have lived and worked in the cause of humanity, oppressed for forty years! To have known and fellowshipped with great and good and useful men of four continents, to have mingled in splendid alliance with the old veterans of the Grand Army of the living God and joined with them in making their ascriptions to the Giver of all good, both in the land of his birth, and that of his forefathers in the "Dark Continent," from whence the light proceedeth which will ultimately fill all the world with the vitalizing, purifying power of the Holy Spirit, which is to revolutionize Christian thought and teach men what true and undefiled religion is and means. For the African being the most spiritual race has a mission and it is to carry the gospel in all its purity and completeness and power to those who know not God.

         The "Autobiography of Alexander Walters" is a departure and innovation in Negro literature

in that it is different from the usual run of autobiographies. It is a combination of church history, race history, a delicate kind of humor, tragedy and pathos. We are told that the Bishop was born in slavery, Aug. 1, 1858, in Nelson County, Kentucky, a picturesque section of the "Blue Grass" region; that his mother, Harriet Mathers Walters, was a woman of prodigious size, well built and weighing 250 lbs. She was strong, active, courageous; a terror to her master and others, who dreaded her because of her physical prowess. A story is told of her which illustrates the point: One day her master and his son got into an altercation about some trivial matter and almost came to blows. Happening along when the wordy battle was raging at its hottest, and sensing the situation quickly, she seized her young master by the nape of his neck and the broadest part of his trousers, lifted him off his feet and shaking him as a cat shakes a mouse, tossed him over into the grape arbor. Shamed by this humiliating ending of the controversy with his father, he gathered himself up and meekly left the scene.

         Her mistress, Mrs. Donohue, was very fond of her and a warm attachment existed between them. Harriet was obstreperous and unmanageable, and because she was different in these respects from other slaves, she was regarded as dangerous. Her influence over her fellow slaves was not conducive to that sweet contentment born of the cat o' nine tails, the gibbet and other cruel methods employed

by "good masters" to produce this desideratum in the home, so it was decided to sell Harriet and, without consulting his wife, Donohue sold her to a trader for $1200. When Mrs. Donohue learned of the sale, she approached the Negro trader and shaking her finger in his face, and stamping her foot with emphasis, said: "Harriet shall never leave this place." And she didn't, for the sale was declared off and Harriet resumed her household duties as usual. Alexander Walters owes much to his slave mother--his splendid physique, his personal courage, his independence of spirit, his deep religious fervor and his ambition to excel in whatever he undertook. His good mother knew no fear, for she was more than a match for any three men in physical strength on the place, and whenever they roused her she put the fear of God in their hearts.

         The Bishop's narrative is told in modest phrase and in simple language and covers twenty-one chapters which are bound to hold the readers' attention because of the manner in which the various topics treated are discussed. In chapter I, we get a glimpse of Bardstown, its people and incidents which recall to memory the happy days of yore. Bardstown is dear to the Bishop's heart --here are memories and associations which cannot be effaced and to these he pays the tribute of love and veneration, for it is his "Old Kentucky Home," and the fragrant odor of the magnolia and the wild rose lingers in memory's casket.

         There is not a dull page in the book, as any one acquainted with the Bishop might know on seeing his name as its author, for he is not a dull nor uninteresting man to talk with, or to read after. He has the happy faculty of holding one's attention whether in private conversation or preaching a sermon, or communicating his views through the press. I have examined very carefully the MSS. of the book and I am able to commend it to the reader as a book as worthy of perusal as it is of the big-hearted, whole-souled, generous man, who has taken the public into his confidence and told it his life story in charming, but simple phrase. He has wrought exceedingly well.

JOHN EDWARD BRUCE.

CONTENTS

• I. ANCESTRY AND BIRTH . . . . . 19
• II. YOUTHFUL DAYS . . . . . 28
• III. EARLY RELIGIOUS IMPRESSIONS, CONVERSION, ETC . . . . . 34
• IV. EXPERIENCES IN LOUISVILLE . . . . . 38
• V. AT THE GOLDEN GATE . . . . . 44
• VI. CHATTANOOGA AND KNOXVILLE . . . . . 50
• VII. THE GREAT METROPOLIS . . . . . 53
• VIII. EUROPE . . . . . 57
• IX. EGYPT AND THE HOLY LAND . . . . . 70
• X. HOME AGAIN . . . . . 83
• XI. THE CENTENNIAL JUBILEE . . . . . 89
• XII. THE AFRO-AMERICAN COUNCIL . . . . . 95
• XIII. GENERAL CONFERENCES . . . . . 141
• XIV. MY TRIP TO WEST COAST OF AFRICA . . . . . 149
• XV. INDEPENDENCE IN POLITICS . . . . . 177
• XVI. WORK IN THE UNITED SOCIETY OF CHRISTIAN ENDEAVOR . . . . . 199
• XVII. ADDRESS AT ALEXANDRA PALACE, LONDON . . . . . 219
• XVIII. THE CHICAGO CHRISTIAN ENDEAVOR CONVENTION, 1915 . . . . . 233
• XIX. ECUMENICAL CONFERENCES . . . . . 247
• XX. THE PAN-AFRICAN CONFERENCE . . . . . 253
• XXI. METHODIST UNITY . . . . . 265

ILLUSTRATIONS

• ALEXANDER WALTERS . . . . . Frontispiece
• DONAHOE HOTEL, NOW THE NEWMAN HOUSE
  In the kitchen of this house Bishop Walters was born . . . . . . 20
• FIRST SCHOOLHOUSE AND CHURCH ATTENDED BY BISHOP WALTERS . . . . . 38
• THE HOUSE IN WHICH MRS. LELIA WALTERS WAS BORN . . . . . 54
• MRS. LELIA WALTERS . . . . . 72
• NEW CHURCH TO WHICH BISHOP WALTERS CONTRIBUTED THE FIRST $25 . . . . . 178
• THE OLD MILL AT BARDSTOWN . . . . . 254

I
ANCESTRY AND BIRTH

                         "My bark is wafted to the strand
                         By breath divine;
                         And on the helm there rests a hand
                         Other than mine."
--DEAN OF CANTERBURY.

         THE patriotic Italian delights to speak of his far-famed country, with its soft blue skies, famous churches, and renowned cities, one of which is so beautiful that it is said of it, "See Naples and die." The Frenchman never tires of boasting of Versailles and its wonderful palace, built by Louis XIV, which cost such an enormous sum of money that the king was afraid to show the receipts to his Cabinet. The Englishman points with pride to Stratford-on-Avon, the home of Shakespeare, the world's greatest poet. The American is equally proud of Mt. Vernon, the home of Washington, "Father of his country"; and we Kentuckians believe our State to be the garden spot of the world. It was one of our famous authors who said, "When God Almighty created the heavens and the earth, He made the little birds to sing, the flowers to bloom, the sun to shine and nature all grand and beautiful. He made Kentucky

the garden spot of the universe and Nelson County the heart thereof."

         Nelson County is delightfully situated in the North-central part of Kentucky; its towering and majestic hills stand out like grim sentinels in the southern and western part of the county,--the county where all is peace, challenging the whole world to compete with it in grandeur and scenic beauty."

                         "Where the sky is pure as azure
                         And the forest nature's green;
                         Where the valleys meet the hilltops
                         And the earth is clothed in sheen.

                         Where fruits and grains are plenteous
                         And the crystal waters prime.
                         This is Nelson County's picture
                         As it looks in simple rhyme."

         It was at Federal Hill, near Bardstown, in old Nelson County, that Stephen Collins Foster wrote "My Old Kentucky Home"--words and melody that will live as long as the English language is spoken; sentiments that will ever cheer and inspire Kentuckians in any part of the world.

         Bardstown, the county seat of old Nelson, is the third oldest city in Kentucky, having been founded in 1774. Situated on a prominent knoll overlooking the Bardstown creek, in the centre of the most fertile agricultural district, an enchanting location, lies this historic old town. In this city stands

DONAHOE HOTEL, NOW THE NEWMAN HOUSE
In the kitchen of this house Bishop Walters was born

the famous St. Joseph's College of the Roman Catholic Church, from whose classic walls have gone forth some of the most distinguished men of that faith. In addition to these, many famous men are proud to call Bardstown their birthplace.

         Among such may be mentioned Ben Hardin, the great lawyer; Judge John Rowan, Charles Anderson Wickliffe, Hon. Felix Grundy, noted jurists; John Fitch, the inventor of the steamboat; Governor William Johnson, Charles Davis Pennybaker, great orators; Col. W. M. Beckham; his son, Hon. J. C. W. Beckham, the present governor; the gifted Judge Grisby, and others.

         Louis Philippe, the exile king of France, resided here for about a year, and afterwards made several valuable presents to St. Joseph's Church, which, by the way, is the most historical, as well as one of the most beautiful, Catholic churches in the State. Among the most interesting buildings in the city of Bardstown is the old tavern in which I was born; the old Court House opposite the tavern, the old brown water-mill below the city, the little old church in which I went to school; and the new Zion Church to build which I contributed the first twenty-five dollars. The colored Baptist church is the oldest church building in the city occupied by Negroes, and for a long while the Baptists and the Methodists used this church as a Union Meeting House. Later the Methodists withdrew and worshipped in the little frame school house.

         In this old historic Kentucky town, one Sunday

morning, the first of August, 1858, in a room in the rear of the kitchen of the Donohue Hotel, now the Newman House, I first beheld the light of day. My father, Henry Walters, was born in Larue County, of sturdy old Kentucky stock, the son of his master, in whose veins flowed the bluest blood of the State. I am told on good authority that my father was a distant relative of Abraham Lincoln. My father lived to the ripe age of eighty-five years, after a life characterized by a serene and hopeful spirit, leaving a memory fragrant with the Christian graces.

         My mother was Harriet Mathers, a native of Virginia, and from the best information I could secure from my father, I learned that she belonged to John Dixon of Missouri, who is thought to have married into the family of her first owners. Mr. Dixon moved from Missouri to Larue County, Kentucky, and she passed out of his hands into those of a family named Mathers, living in the same county. Later she became the property of Michael Donohue, of Bardstown, Kentucky. My mother was tall and commanding in figure, of a light brown complexion and the embodiment of energy. She weighed over two hundred pounds and possessed unusual strength for a woman.

         On one occasion, when her master and his son were in a fight, the son seemed to have the advantage and was about to stab his father with a butcher knife. Mother heard the struggle and rushed in to see what was the matter. On beholding the situation, she seized her young master,

weighing one hundred and fifty pounds, by the seat of his trousers and the nape of his neck, carried him to the kitchen door and threw him into the grape arbor, about six feet away. Though he suffered no bodily injury, you can imagine he suffered much humiliation and chagrin.

         My mother was as brave as a lion: she would not brook even an unjust reprimand from her master. On one occasion when the breakfast was late, her master took her severely to task. She, knowing the abuse was unmerited, resented his harshness and threw the rolling-pin at him. For this grave offense she was condemned to be sold.

         The day of the sale arrived, and the negro-traders were on hand. Among the buyers was a vicious-looking fellow by the name of MacDonald. When mother was put up for sale, the bidding started off at five hundred dollars, and after a spirited contest, she was knocked down to MacDonald for one thousand dollars. At this juncture, the mistress of the home, who had been a silent observer of the sale, stepped forward and said to the master: "Mike, Harriet can't leave this home; she belongs to me. Mother gave her to me when we were both children; we have grown up together, and, notwithstanding she has a bad temper, she is honest and industrious, and I am not going to let her go." "But," said the master, "she has been sold, hence we must let her go."

         Her mistress, who weighed only about one hundred and twenty pounds, drew herself to her full height and said, "I don't care anything about

that; she'll never leave this home." The kindness and firmness of this little woman enabled our mother to remain with her children until we were emancipated.

         Mother was an enthusiastic Methodist. Many a morning at five o'clock we children were awakened by the earnest prayers and loud exclamations of praise on the part of our mother. One of my earliest church recollections was a visit to that old brick meeting house. The meeting got warm, and, as she used to say, she got warm with the meeting and began to cry and shout. I thought some one had done something to her, and I began to cry also and to hang on to her skirts, but she soon shook me loose and had her own good time. She died in 1870 in the full triumph of faith.

         Our family consisted of eight children and the father and mother. Henry, the eldest son, was born in 1850; Joseph and Charles, twins, were born in 1852; John, in 1854; Isaac Burkes, in 1855; Alexander, in 1858; George Anna, in 1866; Caroline, in 1869; of these children, Joseph, Charles, John and Caroline died in infancy.

         In giving these particulars concerning my family, it is with the hope that should the book fall into the hands of any one acquainted with any of my mother's relatives, they may communicate with me and through them I might be able to locate some of my long-lost relatives on my mother's side.

         Next to my parents were Uncle Billy Hardin and Aunt Mahala, his wife. He was owned by the

renowned Ben Hardin, the famous jurist, and was either his son or his nephew. He was the most intelligent man of color in our community. Aunt Mahala was owned by Mike Donohue, and was one of the loveliest and best women I ever knew. She was a grandmother to us children; in fact, she partly reared us. To her we would go with our sorrows, especially if mother had whipped us; we would be sure to receive comfort and consolation. She was the embodiment of kindness, one of those rare creatures who know how to soothe and make you forget your troubles. She had no children of her own, but was ever and anon adopting the children of other folks, spending considerable time and money on them, often only to have them taken from her.

         My present wife, Lelia Coleman Walters, is also a native of Bardstown, and if it were left for me to state who I believe to be Nelson County's best production, I would say without hesitation, Lelia Walters. She was partly educated in a Roman Catholic Convent, completing the course of the Louisville High School, taking the highest honor in a class of thirty students. Among a number of others she was also successful in passing the examination for teachers, and was again fortunate in making the highest average, receiving an appointment to teach in the Public School of Louisville, where she served nine consecutive years as principal of the Shelby Street Schools. Upon her severance with the Public Schools of Louisville to become my wife she was the first

colored teacher to receive public commendation from the School Board for long, efficient and meritorious service.

         Mr. G. H. Cocran, the ex-president of the Board and a member of twenty-five years consecutive standing, on making the motion to accept the resignation, said that "the retirement of this good woman from the public school service is not only a loss to the colored schools but a distinct loss to the City of Louisville." He further stated that he had watched her career since her entrance into the service and considered her one of the most efficient teachers in the service and, in every way, worthy of the great trust committed to her care. In 1895 Mrs. Walters had the good fortune to complete a business course at Coon's Commercial High School, Kansas City, Mo.; upon the reception of her diploma, the papers of that city published the fact that she was the only colored woman in the State of Missouri holding a diploma from a school for whites only.

         Mrs. Walters was an extremely popular teacher, especially beloved by the patrons of her school, and considered a well-informed woman, extensively read along all lines.

         On Aug. 21, 1916, Mrs. Walters received from President Wilson, by executive order, through the influence of Judge Robert Hudspeth, an appointment to a clerkship at Ellis Island, which position she has creditably filled, being commended by Commissioner Uhl for efficiency and the high order

of her intelligence. For twelve years she has been President of the African Redemption Society, and during our married life has been my constant friend and faithful assistant in all my undertakings and ever a wise and safe counsellor.

II
YOUTHFUL DAYS

                         "How beautiful is youth! how bright it gleams
                         With its illusions, aspirations, dreams!
                         Book of Beginnings, Story without End,--
                         All possibilities are in its hands,
                         No danger daunts it and no foe withstands."
--LONGFELLOW.

         AT an early age my brother Isaac and I were sent to a private school which was taught by Mrs. Amanda Hines, one of the most intelligent colored women of our town; she was possessed of a pleasing disposition and winning personality which endeared her to all her pupils. We remained at this school for two terms, learning our alphabet and the Three R's, along with many other useful things not included in the curriculum. In 1868 Mr. William Lawrence of Louisville took charge of the school taught in the little frame church. My father thinking him a more efficient teacher than Mrs. Hines, we were taken from the private school and sent to him. He was of distinguished appearance and a first-rate disciplinarian. After two years he was succeeded by Miss Addie Miller, who taught for the same length of time. Miss Miller was a tiny woman, of

engaging manners, but unable to cope with the big boys and girls of the school.

         Following Miss Miller came the teacher who made the greatest impression on my youthful mind and who did much toward directing my thoughts to the ministry as a career. This was Mr. Rowan Wickliffe of Lexington, Kentucky, a distinguished educator and race leader. Soon after his arrival he made a proposition to the two colored churches of the town to instruct without charge a boy from each church whom they might select to be educated for the ministry. This proposal was accepted and I was chosen by the A. M. E. Zion Church and Levi Evans was chosen by the Baptist Church. Mr. Wickliffe was a fine teacher, enthusiastic, magnetic, a good disciplinarian and deeply interested in the young people under his care. I could not help but be greatly benefited by him. He was a constant source of inspiration to me and did more to shape my destiny than any one with whom I had come in contact up to that time. I remained in his school four years, this being the last school I attended.

         It was while attending this school that my father moved out of Bardstown into the country, which necessitated my walking five miles daily to school. I was accustomed to rise before five in the morning, do my chores and help my grandmother get breakfast, my mother having died about the time I began studying under Mr. Wickliffe. At school I was considered an apt pupil, generally standing at the head of my class,

carrying off the honors. I was very studious, caring little for sports and the usual boys' pursuits. I was very serious minded, ever looking forward to the vocation which I believed was predestined for me. At the graduating exercises of my class I had the honor to be the valedictorian, an honor all the more prized since the class numbered among its members some very bright pupils. Among these were Anna Hamilton, one of the brightest scholars of our town, a born gentlewoman, who has ever exerted a wonderful influence for good; Daniel Peppers, who is a teacher at present in Nelson County. Melissa Anderson, Josie Weathers, Eliza and Amanda Tutt, Mary E. Medcalfe, Billy, Cassie and Susie Dooms, Sallie Hamilton, Clarissa Slaughter and others I remember as among my class-mates who made especially good records in school and have since given a good account of themselves in the world.

         About 1875, my father moved to a farm near Hodgensville, Larue County, Kentucky, owned by Dunlap Miller, where I labored for some time, spending the winters in Louisville, working in hotels and the like. I had already, during the summer of 1871, lived awhile in Louisville and worked at the Old St. Cloud Hotel and also at the Willard Hotel.

         During one of my vacations--I think it was in 1872--I went as cabin boy on the steamer McCrady to Brazier City, now Morgan City, La. The steamer made trips between Morgan City and New Iberia. One night, having been found

asleep while on duty, I was summarily discharged by the captain at New Iberia without enough money to pay my way back to Morgan City; but the boys made up my fare with fifteen cents over, which enabled me to emulate the good Ben Franklin on his arrival in Philadelphia, except that I regaled myself on ginger cake and water instead of buns and water during the three days I remained in Morgan City seeking work.

         I finally got work on the dock unloading ships, but owing to my physical condition and youth, I was unable to do the work. Again my steamer friends came to my aid and contributed sufficient money to pay my passage to New Orleans, where I got work on a steamer plying between New Orleans and Donaldsonville. After six or seven months of hardship, I secured employment on the steamer Louisville, a stern wheeler which ran between New Orleans and Cincinnati. While in New Orleans I was much affected by hearing a lady passenger sing "My Old Kentucky Home." She came out on deck where I happened to be at work, and judging from the feeling and power she threw into the rendition of this sweet old song, she must have been a Kentuckian. At any rate, it made me so homesick that I decided when the boat arrived at Louisville to remain there. Thus ended my experiences on the river.

         On my first visit to Louisville, I lived with Mrs. Matilda Gibson, an old friend of the family from Bardstown; she was a most estimable woman and very kind to me. To a lonely lad away from home

the friendship of a kind, motherly woman is of inestimable value and I have never forgotten the homelike days at Mrs. Gibson's. Afterwards I made my home with my eldest brother, Henry, who had lived in the city about ten years and who had recently married. While here I continued my education by employing private teachers, first Prof. Rebeault and then Prof. Hayes, both teachers of the white High School, who instructed me in Physics, Rhetoric, and an English course in Divinity.

         In 1876 I again secured employment at the Willard Hotel. I had not been there long before Mr. Ives, the proprietor of the Bates Hotel, of Indianapolis, came to Louisville to hire a crew of waiters for his house at a considerable advance of wages. My brother Isaac and I joined the crew. Indianapolis proved a blessing to us both. We enjoyed the delightful associations of interesting and intelligent persons through whom we gained an entrance into the various phases of community life. It was here that we both united with the leading fraternal societies, the Masons, Odd Fellows and the United Brethren of Friendship, in the last named of which I became a national officer.

         It was my good fortune while employed at the Bates House in Indianapolis to meet Miss Katie Knox, a native of Louisville, who afterwards became my wife. A few months prior to this time she had moved to Indianapolis with her mother and eldest sister. She was an extremely modest

young woman, well trained and of lovable personality. Her parents, Louis and Kittie Knox, were old residents of Louisville and highly respected. We were married by Rev. D. P. Seaton, D.D., August 28, 1877. Five children were the fruit of this happy marriage: William Henry Louis, born at Corydon, Ky., July 11, 1879; Mary Elizabeth, born at Louisville, February 23, 1882, who died in infancy; Alexander Ezekiel, born at San Francisco, Cal., April 1, 1885; Lord Wellington, born at Jersey City, N. J., August 4, 1891.

         Mrs. Katie Walters was especially fitted to be a minister's wife. For nineteen years she labored at my side, giving me comfort, inspiration, rejoicing in my successes, and sorrowing with me in my failures. She was an eminently pious woman, an indulgent mother and a loyal friend. She died in Jersey City, December 22, 1896.

III
EARLY RELIGIOUS IMPRESSIONS, CONVERSION, ETC.

                         "We take with solemn thankfulness
                         Our burden up, nor ask it less;
                         And count it joy that even we
                         May suffer, serve or wit for Thee."--WHITTIER.

         I RECEIVED my first religious awakening, when but a small boy, on reading the Book of Revelation. I felt sure that I was doomed to be lost. About this time, dreaming for two nights in succession of the Judgment Day and the horrors thereof, I was so frightened that I began to pray in earnest.

         Rev. Yarmouth Carr was the pastor of the A. M. E. Zion Church at Bardstown at this time. I revealed to him my agitated state of mind, and was admonished by him to go to the mourners' bench, which I did; he also gave me a religious book, the name of which I cannot remember. Soon afterwards I made a profession of religion and joined the A. M. E. Zion Church; this was in 1870. I have always made it a point when taking up my residence in any city, especially if I intended to remain any length of time, to join a church, and

the Zion Church if one could be found. When I first went to Indianapolis, there was no Zion Church there, and so I joined the Vermont Street A. M. E. Church, under the pastorate of the Rev. D. P. Seaton.

         A few months afterwards I assisted the Rev. Anthony Bunch to organize the A. M. E. Zion Church in Indianapolis. Prior to his coming to Indianapolis, he had been my pastor at Bardstown. He was a noted church builder.

         In March, 1877, I was licensed to preach by the Quarterly Conference and pastor of this newly-organized church. On September 10, 1878, I was admitted into the Kentucky Conference of the A. M. E. Zion Church at Jones Tabernacle, Indianapolis, Ind., over which Bishop S. T. Jones presided. I was appointed from this conference to the Corydon Circuit, which consisted of Corydon and Smithmills, Kentucky. The church at Corydon was blessed with a gracious revival, the first year of my pastorate. Over fifty souls were converted and a large number added to the church.

         At the Kentucky Conference, which met at St. Louis, Mo., July 3, 1879, Bishop S. T. Jones presiding, I was ordained a deacon on July 8. From this conference I was reappointed to the Corydon Circuit, and remained there two years. In connection with my other work, I was principal of the Corydon Public School. On April 7, 1881, the Kentucky Conference met at Louisville, Ky., in Jacob Street Tabernacle, Bishop S. T. Jones again presiding. I had the honor to be elected

assistant secretary of this conference, and passed a most creditable examination for Elder's orders. I was appointed to the Cloverport Circuit, which consisted of Cloverport, Shawler's Chapel, Patesville, Holt's Bottom and Lick Run. There was not a church on the whole circuit, and when I reached Cloverport I was informed of the barrenness of the work. I was utterly discouraged. Remembering that I had a wife and child to support, I could not refrain from shedding tears. In that hour something seemed to say to me: "Be of good courage, up and go to work." I at once set about getting things in shape, held meetings under brush arbors, and in the school houses, and conducted special revival meetings. I bought lumber to build a church at Holt's Bottom, but ere I could put up the building, the conference met at Russellville, Ky., and I was changed from this circuit to the Fifteenth Street Church, Louisville, Ky., which was a frame building about 40 by 60 ft., and in a dilapidated condition.

         The large congregation that had worshipped in this church had moved to a magnificent brick structure on Twelfth Street, between Market and Jefferson Streets. It was their intention to sell the Fifteenth Street property, and use the money to assist in paying off the debt of the Twelfth Street Church. However, they were prevented from doing so by the Conference, which refused to grant them the authority to make the sale, and because a few of the older members were not willing to leave. In all there were about twenty-five

members. Notwithstanding the discouraging outlook, we took hold and were successful in improving the property and added more than a hundred to the membership.

IV
EXPERIENCES IN LOUISVILLE

                         "Thou callest me to seek Thy face;--
                         'Tis all I wish to seek;
                         To attend the whispers of Thy grace,
                         And hear Thee inly speak."

         LOUISVILLE, the metropolis of Kentucky, is one of the most beautiful and progressive cities in the South. It is situated on the south bank of the Ohio River, southwest of Cincinnati, Ohio, and has a population of 205,000. Its large mercantile houses, splendid stores, interesting municipal buildings, and aggressive business men and women give it the appearance of a prosperous city. Here are to be found some of the most renowned families of the South.

         The streets are broad, regular, intersecting each other at right angles, and are beautifully shaded with trees. This is especially true of Gray Street. Its tall interlacing elms form a complete arcade. Fourth Street is Louisville's great promenade avenue. The corner of Jefferson and Fourth Streets is a famous point where the tourists from all parts of the world station themselves to view the passing throng of Kentucky's far-famed

FIRST SCHOOLHOUSE AND CHURCH ATTENDED BY BISHOP WALTERS

belles. Broadway is celebrated for its width and beauty.

         Louisville has a number of splendid church edifices, which would do credit to any city. Some of them are owned and completely controlled by colored people. The city maintains the separate school system, but it can be said to the credit of the broad-minded white citizens of Louisville that the colored and white schools are kept at a parity. The school buildings for colored pupils are among the largest, handsomest and best equipped in the country; well heated and lighted, with every facility for the intellectual and physical development of the students. These schools were fortunate in their early history to have at their head three of the ablest pedagogues that the race has ever produced, in the persons of Professors J. W. Maxwell of the Central High School, W. T. Payton of the Western School, W. H. Perry of the Eastern School, and later, Professors A. E. Meyzeek, Frank Williams, A. Delaney, S. B. Taylor, Daniel Lawson; Miss Lucy Duvalle, Mrs. Lelia Coleman Brown. These able instructors were efficiently and loyally supported by an excellent corps of teachers, such as Professors C. W. Houser, J. E. Simpson, Pratt Annis, James Harris, J. J. McKinley; Miss Virginia Burkes, Miss Martha Webster, Mrs. Mary L. Meade, Mrs. Mary Johnson, Miss Georgie Moore, Miss Maria Henry, Miss Eliza Davenport, Miss Belle Alexander, Miss Mary Hicks and others.

         My wife, Lelia Coleman Walters, speaking of

the late Professor J. W. Maxwell, her old teacher, says: "He was unique in his position, first and ever a thorough and close student, an ideal teacher, a Christian gentleman of the sweetest and most gentle personality. Never was master more beloved by teachers and pupils than he. How well the name of master suited him. In him the student recognized the master of the subject. To go to Professor Maxwell for enlightenment on a question or subject was to have all the difficulties cleared away and to open up a beautiful vista of knowledge, so entrancing in its pursuit that the student left his presence aflame with desire for wisdom."

         Socially the Afro-Americans of Louisville take first rank among the most intellectual and cultured of our land. Many of them own their own homes, and a few have elegant residences. There are a number of business enterprises operated by colored people, such as: contracting, tailoring, shoemaking, with drugstores, insurance companies and undertaking establishments.

         Mr. D. W. Knight has a flourishing transfer business. Among Louisville's most prominent citizens are Revs. J. Frank, C. H. Parish, Daniel Geddie; Drs. Whedbee, Porter, Fuller, Stone and others; Mr. W. H. Steward, Mr. David Steward, Mr. and Mrs. Andrew Jackson, and Miss Minnie Rhodes, a popular trained nurse.

         I feel that this chapter would be incomplete without a word concerning two of my warmest and closest friends, Mr. and Mrs. Wm. Watson;

until the time of his death, Mr. Watson was one of Louisville's leading business men. He was born in this city some time in the fifties, took advantage of the early pay school system, and made his way up from the lower ranks:

                         "Honor and fame from no condition rise,
                         Act well your part, there all honor lies."
This he did.

         Being intelligent, polite, obliging and honest, he won the confidence and respect of Louisville's wealthy citizens, young and old, and when reaching manhood, he determined to enter the business world for himself, he found that his early upright life had been as "bread cast upon the waters"--now bringing reward manyfold.

         The greater part of Mr. Watson's life was spent in the undertaking business or directing of funerals. In addition, he conducted a general carriage business, his equipages and stock being among the finest in the city and constantly in demand by the white undertakers, of whose association he was a member. He could well be considered a pioneer in the business world of his native city, for at the time he entered business there was but one other colored firm. As to his business life, nothing but good can be said. He was successful from the beginning.

         William Watson knew no difference as to treatment of his patrons. This noble man ended this life December 29, 1905. He was one who was an

honor to his race, a benefactor to the community in which he lived, an upright citizen, a loving husband and a true friend and Christian. Let us reverse Shakespeare's words and say,

                         "The good that men do lives after them,
                         The evil is interred with their bones."

         Mr. Watson's estimable wife Lavinia, who for twelve happy years shared his successes, and made light his dark days of adversity by her sympathy, is a woman of rare business ability--she is cultured, intelligent and generous to a fault.

                         "A faithful wife
                         Becomes the truest and the tenderest friend,
                         The balm of comfort and the sound of joy;
                         Through every various turn of life the same."

         Nothing could better represent or express the relation between this couple. In his many beautiful acts of charity he was guided by this kind and loving woman.

         Prior to Mr. Watson's death his interesting and beautiful home was noted far and wide for its lavish hospitality; while Mr. Watson was of a modest and very retiring disposition, yet he wanted his wife to slight no friend that called.

         The "latch string" hung out, and true Kentucky hospitality was ever dispensed to all and at all times by Mrs. Lavinia Watson.

         But it is not as a dispenser of hospitality that

the character of William Watson's wife shines forth in all splendor; it is as "his angel of mercy" in the last years of Mr. Watson's life, when health and strength had failed, he leaned upon her support--looked to her for the cooling draught in fever's fitful moments. The loving fidelity of this good woman to an afflicted husband was something beautiful and endeared her to the many friends he left behind.

         Mrs. Watson is at the head of the business left by her husband, and is conducting the same upon the high plane of service and integrity established by its founder. Mrs. Watson has since become the wife of Mr. J. B. Cooper, and they are jointly conducting the business quite successfully.

V
AT THE GOLDEN GATE

                         At the Golden Gate I stand
                         Amazed at the beauties of the land!

         IN the early part of May, 1883, in company with Elders E. H. Curry, J. B. Johnson, I took a trip from Louisville, Kentucky, to St. Louis, Missouri. While on the train my eyes chanced to fall on the following passage of scripture: "I will make thee unto this people a fenced brazen wall, and they shall fight against thee, but they shall not prevail against thee; for I am with thee to save thee, and to deliver thee, saith the Lord. And I will deliver thee out of the hand of the wicked, and will redeem thee out of the hand of the terrible." Jeremiah 15:20-21.

         This promise to Jeremiah struck me forcibly, indeed, I could not help but apply it to myself, so impressed was I with these words, until I felt impelled to call the attention of the Reverends Curry and Johnson to them.

         On reaching St. Louis, I met Bishop J. W. Hood, D.D.; it was my first meeting with the good bishop. On the same evening, we attended

class-meeting at Washington Chapel, at which place I spoke. When I took my seat, the bishop asked me if I used tobacco in any way. I answered no. He then told me that while I was speaking, he was impressed to appoint me pastor of the Stockton Street Church, San Francisco, California; but, said he, they do not want any one who uses tobacco in any form. Until he had spoken I did not know that the pulpit was vacant. I at once realized the significance of the promise given me on the train: "That I will make thee unto this people a fenced brazen wall," etc. With this promise before me I consented to go.

         I arrived in San Francisco, July 5, 1883, found the church in a good financial condition, but very low spiritually. This did not discourage me. I had a large church which originally cost $80,000; 80 ft. by 120 ft. San Francisco is a magnificent city, seated like ancient Rome on seven hills. With plenty of money to draw upon, and the promise of God that I would succeed, I took hold with a vim. The first thing I did was to consecrate myself to God, and plead earnestly to be given power to win souls. My sister, who visited me about a year after my arrival here, was converted in one of our meetings. Sixty were added to the church.

         October 7, 1883, I dedicated our new church at Portland, Ore. I also visited San José, Los Angeles, and other points on the coast , as presiding elder, giving encouragement to the pastors, and in every way within my power strengthening

the work. The three years I spent in San Francisco were the happiest and most devoted of all my life. I can truthfully say that I lived a sanctified life; I did not possess adamic nor angelic perfection, but perfect love.

         Mrs. Julia Foote, the noted evangelist, rendered me most valuable services while on the coast; indeed, from 1884 until the year she died, 1901, she made my house her home. All the members of my family were greatly indebted to this godly woman for her gracious influence in the home. She was a great preacher, an uncompromising advocate of holiness, and who practiced the gospel she preached.

         May, 1884, I represented the California Conference at the General Conference, held in Mother Zion, Tenth and Bleecker Streets, New York City. It was my first appearance in a General Conference. I had the honor to be elected first assistant secretary, and was a member of the following committees: Revision, Education, Districting the Bishops, Devotion and Auditing. It was a memorable session. It was at this session that Bishop Hillery was deposed from the bishopric.

         I was greatly aided in my expenses by Mrs. Mary E. Pleasants (colored), of San Francisco. She contributed two hundred dollars, in gold, toward my fare. While absent from the coast, I visited the principal cities of the East, West, North and South. Among the places visited was my old home, Bardstown, Kentucky. I was present

at the National Convention, held in Chicago, Ill., which met June 3, 1884, at which convention the Hon. James G. Blaine was nominated for the presidency. It was my first visit to a National Convention. I was especially delighted with the election of the Hon. J. R. Lynch of Mississippi as temporary chairman, and his felicitous speech on taking the chair. I returned to my work, much improved in health.

         Tuesday, Sept. 9, 1884, I was awakened about six o'clock in the morning with a wonderful weight of glory; it seemed to me that heaven had entered anew into my soul, and all the day long it was "Glory, Glory, Glory." A splendid revival followed this fresh baptism. For three months, with the exception of one day, our church had been praying for the baptism of power, and not without success.

         December 31, 1884, was a great night in old Stockton Street Church; more than twelve hundred people were present. God greatly blessed the following text to the salvation of many: "But of him are ye in Christ Jesus, who of God is made unto us, wisdom and righteousness and redemption." I Cor. 1:30.

         The year had been an unusually happy one to me. January 1, 1885, was with me a day of much peace and great rejoicing.

         August 20, 1885, my wife and three children left California for the East to visit her mother, who was very ill, and who died November 30,1885; my little son Julien died in Louisville, December 22, 1885.

My wife did not return to the coast any more. It was not my privilege to see her again until the following March.

         October 19, 1885, Dr. J. C. Price, President of Livingstone College, visited the coast through an urgent invitation, which I had sent him. Plans had been inaugurated for a financial campaign, and during the three months which he was with me, he collected $8500, which enabled him to build Hopkins and Stanford Halls. Dr. Price made a wonderful impression upon the people along the coast. He spoke in the largest churches, theatres and halls in the city, and was always greeted with an immense audience. His able addresses were listened to with rapt attention, and applauded to the very echo. He was given headquarters at the Y. M. C. A. Rooms, and Mr. McCoy, secretary, rendered him valuable assistance. No colored man who has visited the coast has ever received the honors given to Dr. Price. He electrified the entire coast, and in the common parlance of the boys on the street, "he set the place on fire and left it burning."

         I succeeded in paying off the large mortgage debt during my three years pastorate there.

         Among the prominent families of the church were: George Dennis, Senior, who had a very intelligent family; Ezekiel Cooper, Samuel Freeman, James Hargrove, Prof. Haman, Mrs. Joseph Campbell, Richard Ricker and others.

         Before closing this chapter, I do not think it is out of place to relate here an incident, which

occurred while I was pastor of the Stockton Street Church, San Francisco, California.

         One Saturday night, while upon my knees, making preparation for the Sabbath service, I had what I suppose some people would call a vision. It seemed that some one in spirit form entered the room, proffering to me an exalted office; I realized that it was the bishopric of the church. I shrank from the responsibility and said, I am not sufficiently prepared to accept such a sacred office. Assurance was given me of divine help and constant guidance and assistance of the Holy Spirit. I thereupon burst into tears, and said: "Thy will be done." Upon my acquiescence, a peculiar peace came to my soul, and from that hour to the day of my election, eight years afterward, I felt confident that I would be a bishop in our church.

VI
CHATTANOOGA AND KNOXVILLE

                         "Nor doubt that golden chords
                         Of good works, mingling with the visions, raise
                         The soul to purer worlds."
--WORDSWORTH.

         ON March 1, 1886, I left San Francisco, for Chattanooga, Tenn., where I had been appointed by Bishop J. W. Hood. I arrived at Chattanooga, March 12, 1886, and was given a most cordial welcome by the members and friends of the church. On March 14th, the first Sunday in my new charge, I began a revival, which lasted two weeks. About forty professed religion and united with the church. I found the people to be loyal and loving, hence was much pleased with the church.

         A great flood visited the city during the spring of 1886, and by it six thousand people were made homeless. My arduous labors about this time caused me to break down physically and for six months I was unable to occupy my pulpit; the most of the time being spent at Rhea's Springs, Tenn. With this exception I had a most successful year at this point, but owing to my continued ill health, I was changed to Knoxville, Tenn.

         The Logan Temple Church had just been finished by Dr. A. J. Warner, but owing to some misunderstanding between himself and the trustees there had been a split in the church, and when I reached Knoxville, on November 12, I found the majority of the members worshipping in a hall with Rev. Warner as their pastor, and a small minority, with the trustees, still occupied the church. I set about to reconcile the factions and finally succeeded in getting the members back into the church, while the Rev. Dr. Warner accepted a transfer to the West Alabama Conference and took charge of what is now known as Big Zion at Mobile, Ala.

         I remained two years at Knoxville and had a splendid revival and succeeded in reorganizing the church, and so arranged the financial affairs as to make the church safe to the connection.

         I became secretary and steward of the Tennessee Conference, and at the Conference which was held at Rogersville, October 25, 1886, over which Bishop T. H. Lomax presided, I was elected delegate to the General Conference which met at Newbern, N. C. It was a memorable session of the General Conference. It was the battlefield where ultra conservatism died in our church. The young progressive element, led by Dr. J. C. Price, achieved a signal victory over the old régime; it was the beginning of the phenomenal success of the A. M. E. Zion connection. At the close of this General Conference I was transferred from the Tennessee to the New York Conference, and

stationed at Mother Zion, New York City. I arrived June 13th, and was given a most cordial welcome and reception by the members and friends.

         I was soon comfortably situated with my family at No. 66 Grove Street, which for a number of years had been the parsonage of Mother Zion.

VII
THE GREAT METROPOLIS

                         "Yet God is present in this place,
                         Veil'd in serener majesty;
                         So full of glory, truth and grace,
                         That faith alone such light can see."

         I HAD visited this Metropolitan City in the spring of 1884, a while before and during the session of our General Conference, which met in Mother Zion in May of the same year. I was amazed at its inhabitants, astonished at the enterprise and aggressiveness of its business men and delighted with its beautiful and immense park. I saw for the first time an elevated railroad, transporting to and fro a half million people a day.

         A visit to the Stock Exchange in Wall Street, where I heard the mad roar of the speculators, convinced me that these frenzied money lovers had been correctly dubbed the "bulls and bears."

         At the head of Wall Street is great Trinity (Protestant Episcopal Church), where it was my good fortune and pleasure to hear the renowned Boston preacher, the late Phillips Brooks, whose influence was world wide. Not far away from Trinity, on Broadway, is old St. Paul. It was in

this church, 1789, that George Washington took the oath of office as President of the United States. Within a stone's throw of St. Paul's Church is the City Hall, Post-office, the famous Brooklyn Bridge, and the great Metropolitan daily papers, Tribune, Herald, Journal, World, Press, Times, Sun, Post, Mail and Express, and a great number of magazines and other periodicals. From this centre radiates the greatest intellectual and financial influence of the nation; indeed, from this centre the financial world is controlled.

         It was to this mammoth city with its many churches and its multitudinous interests that I had been sent to touch and help develop its spiritual life as best I could. I considered myself fortunate in being appointed at the age of thirty, to look after the affairs of Mother Zion.

         The church was a commodious brick edifice, which could accommodate two thousand people, when filled to its utmost capacity. The organization was formed in 1796 and incorporated in 1801. Some of the most distinguished men of our connection had pastored this church. Delighted with the charge and finding the people ready to work, I took hold to succeed or die in the attempt. The church had lost a large part of its congregation, and was at a low ebb spiritually. I saw at once that the first thing to do was to get the people back into the church, and I considered that the best way to do this was to have a revival of religion, and to that end I preached for six months,

THE HOUSE IN WHICH MRS. LELIA WALTERS WAS BORN

preached on the law, until one night, going home from church, my wife said to me, that she thought that I had given them law enough, and that they were sore and needed some gospel of love. I considered her a pretty good judge; hence on January 1, 1889, I opened a revival by preaching from John 3:16: "For God so loved the world that he gave his only begotten Son, that whosoever believeth in him should not perish, but have everlasting life."

         The meetings continued about three months; over three hundred joined the church and more than that number were converted. It was a real refreshing from the presence of the Lord. I was assisted in the meetings by the Rev. Mrs. Foote, the renowned woman evangelist; Rev. James M. Butler, son of the late William F. Butler, who had been a popular minister of the church, some years prior to my pastorate there; Deacon William Phillips, with a strong array of enthusiastic Christian workers, called the "battle boys and girls"; George and Peter Washington, James Chase, Philip Williams, James Nixon, Edward Williams, William Fisher, E. V. C. Eto, John Pulley, Philip Richardson, Alfred Abrams, William Fisher, David Landrine, Isaac Majors, Anderson Burrell, Jacob Hutchins, Fisher Sampson, N. F. Allen (white).

         Among the women were Jane Thomas, Hannah Wardell, Charlotte Fisher, Elizabeth Purnell, Fanny Van Brunk, Alexzenio Thomas, Ruby Johnson, Ida Dawson, Dinah Myers, Jerusha

Vogelsong; Mothers Mosley, Johnson, Thomas, Vincent and others. I was also supported by a strong board of trustees in the persons of Richard Harris, president; E. V. C. Eto, secretary, who had been superintendent of the A. M. E. Zion Sunday School for twenty-five years; Jacob James, Brother Troatman, treasurer. Charles Randall, Jacob Wells, John Palmer, Jacob Hutchins and John Jackson.

         It was during the first year of my pastorate at Mother Zion that I was appointed by the Board of Bishops to represent the Zion Connection at the World's Sunday School Convention, which was to be held July 6, 1889, at London, England. Besides this appointment, I was also elected as one of the delegates of the Sunday School Union of the State of New York.

VIII
EUROPE

                         "The new sight, the new wondrous sight!
                         The waters round me turbulent,
                         The skies impassive o 'er me!"
--MRS. BROWNING.

         ON the 19th of June, 1889, in company with Drs. D. P. Seaton, of the A. M. E. Church; Walter Brooks, J. D. Olden, of the Baptist Church; George Moore, of the Congregational Church; C. H. Phillips, of the C. M. E. Church, and over three hundred Sunday school workers (white) from all parts of America, we sailed on the steamship Bothnia, Cunard Line, for Liverpool, England, to attend the World's Sunday School Convention, which met in London, July 6th of the same year.

         The first thing of interest to me, which occurred on board after our period of sea-sickness, was a "set-back" given by the steward to a young Southerner who was assigned a seat next to mine, in the dinner hall. I happened to be seated at the table before he came in; when he arrived and saw me sitting there, he remarked to the steward that he was not going to eat by the side of a "Nigger." The steward being English, did not

seem to comprehend what he meant by that statement and hence paid very little attention to him. He withdrew without his meal. At the next meal I chanced to arrive at the table again in advance of him; when he reached his seat he reddened in the face and again told the steward that he would not sit by me, and demanded another seat. The steward's face reddened, and pointing his finger at the seat, he said to him: "Young man, you will take your meals at that seat, or you will not eat on board this ship." I said to myself, "Thank God for English fair play!" I was not treated better by any one on board the ship after this than I was by that young man who at first refused to eat by my side.

         What some of the white people of this country need is for those in authority to give them to understand that they are going to accord to every man his rights, whether he be white or black. Let those who administer the laws impress upon the people that they must obey the laws, and all this trouble which we are having because of race prejudice, etc., will soon pass away.

         After ten days' sail, we arrived at Liverpool on a Sunday morning. We were given a reception by the Sunday School Union of Liverpool on Sunday evening, at the Young Men's Christian Association Rooms, a very spacious building of that city. The hall was packed to its utmost capacity. Strange to say, the colored brethren were left off the program. The speaking had not been going on long, before a voice was heard saying: "We

want to hear the colored men; let one of the colored delegates speak." Mr. B. F. Jacobs of Chicago, Chairman of the delegation, called several of us to the platform.

         The colored delegates were given a regular ovation. The enthusiasm reached its highest bounds, when one of the delegates remarked that he was glad to be on English soil, because there was a time when the courageous, liberty-loving Negro, fleeing from the wrath of his master, pursued by the bloodhounds, sought English soil, and reaching it found himself under the protection of the Union Jack, when he could turn and grin in his master's face and say: "Touch me if you dare!" In conclusion he said: "In those dark days when we had but few friends in our own country, you stood ready at all times to befriend us. We can never forget your kindness."

         Our welcome was so cordial, that when Dr. Wharton, of Baltimore, Md., rose to speak and was accorded a rather cold reception, he said: "For one time in my life, I wish I was a colored man." We had scored.

         We left Liverpool the next morning and stopped at Bedford, the home of John Bunyan. It was in this city he was incarcerated in prison for twelve years; here he wrote his immortal work, "Pilgrim's Progress."

         On reaching London, the delegation was tendered a reception at the Mansion House, by the Lord Mayor of London. Again the colored delegates were left off the program; we thought

surely there was no way for us to receive any recognition whatever. But when the speaking was all over, and the Mayoress on the arm of the Lord Mayor, came down from the throne, to go into the luncheon room, she stopped the royal procession and seeing the colored delegates standing near the door, she said to one of her attendants: "Invite those colored gentlemen here." On invitation we stepped forward. She asked our names, wished us a pleasant stay in London and a successful session; and then requested us to form an escort to conduct them into the luncheon room. We did so, to the great consternation of our white brethren.

         At Exeter Hall a few nights after this the colored delegates made such an impression that several of them were invited to make their homes with some of the prominent citizens of London. Your humble servant happened to be one of the favored ones. I was taken from my hotel, bag and baggage, to the elegant residence of one of the Assemblymen of London, Mr. Samuel Cole. I had not been at his residence long before I found that I was in the midst of the élite of London. Indeed, as the vulgar phrase puts it, I was "in the swim."

         The next morning, after I was domiciled, the maid rapped at the door and asked for my shoes. I understood this and put them on the outside. Soon after this I was invited down to breakfast. I donned my morning robe and went below; was heartily greeted by the members of the family and

took breakfast in royal style, as if I had been used to it all my life.

         I returned to my room and had not been there long when a gentle tap came at the door; a maid entered and said to my surprise, "Sir, your carriage is ready." I could not imagine for the life of me what it meant. Of course I did not wish to have it known that I was not accustomed to all the luxuries of life and acquainted with all the rules of etiquette. I therefore replied, "All right."

         Upon this the thought occurred to me to step to the window; on doing so I saw the carriage at the door with footman and driver; I surmised I was to go out for a morning drive. I put on my things as quickly as possible, and on reaching the lower hall was met by my host and hostess. With all the dignity of a gentleman of leisure and luxury, I announced my readiness. This was repeated every morning and afternoon for two weeks.

         One Saturday afternoon Mr. Cole informed me that he would be busy on the Sabbath and wished to know if I would accompany Mrs. Cole and a lady friend from Scotland to church. I told them I would do so. A thought occurred to me (I know not whence it came) to take advantage of the occasion to have some fun with our white American brethren and let them see how a colored man was respected and honored in England. The whole delegation had been invited to worship at Mr. Spurgeon's church; the invitation had been

accepted and I knew they were all likely to be present. I went to a gents' furnishing store and instructed the salesman to fit my hand with a pair of kid gloves of the latest, and told him not to regard the cost, as I wanted a neat fit. He seemed to appreciate the situation, and although he did not know what it was, he thought there was "something up." Believe me, when I tell you he gave me the neatest fit I ever had in my life; I had not cared for gloves very much, heretofore, but I was especially anxious to have the best in the market on this occasion. I had purchased a new suit before leaving home for the convention. With my new suit, kid gloves and low quartered shoes, I was prepared to escort the ladies to church.

         I could not sleep well on Saturday night for thinking of my approaching triumph. I arose early Sunday morning and long before the maid came to announce that the carriage was in waiting, I was ready. Finally the hour arrived, I appeared in the hall arrayed in an "up-to-date" outfit, and informed the ladies that I was at their service.

         After I had assisted them into the carriage, I said to the footman (putting something in his hand), "If you see a great many carriages in front of the church when we arrive, you saunter about until the way is cleared." I knew the white delegates from America would be waiting in front of the church, as strangers had to wait at Mr. Spurgeon's church till the pew holders arrived, or at least until half past ten o'clock. If the pew

holders were not in their seats by that time, anyone could take their places.

         The driver and the footman seemed to sympathize with me. There happened to be a number of carriages about the entrance; the driver sauntered about till the way was cleared and then drove up to the curb. The footman opened the door; I stepped out and with my neatly-gloved hand assisted Mrs. Cole and her friend to alight.

         With all the grace imaginable, and in full view of the assembled multitude, who stood gazing on with amazement, I escorted the ladies into the church, much to the astonishment of my deeply prejudiced Southern brethren. I don't know when I have gotten so much real enjoyment out of an occasion, furnished ready to hand by unreasonable prejudice.

         One day when we were visiting the Zoological Gardens I burst into a fit of laughter. Mrs. Cole asked me what in the world could be the matter. I said, "Nothing." But she said, "Mr. Walters, there must be something the matter." And she pressed me so hard to tell her that I promised I would. I will tell you what it was.

         I happened to reach a cage while visiting the menagerie department which contained a great big baboon, which reminded me of a story I heard in one of the Southern conferences about a man who lived on a Southern plantation by the name of Tom; his master, hearing there was a show to visit the town, said to him one day: "Tom, if you will be a good boy, I will let you go to

the show." Tom took him up, did his best and succeeded in keeping in favor with his master till the show came. The day arrived; Tom, with his bare feet, went to town and waited for his master to come, and pay his way into the show. Finally his master came and Tom went in; he looked at the tigers, lions, bears, etc.

         At last he came to a cage and saw something in it which he thought was an old-time darkey. Seeing him chained, he sympathized with him and said: "What have you done that the white folks got you tied up like this? They had me tied up like this once and I prayed to God and He delivered me. If you pray to God He will deliver you too." He saw the white folks looking towards him and said: "I can't talk to you any longer; I see the white folks looking and they don't allow us colored folks to stand and talk together too long. So good-bye." He reached his hands through the bars to bid his supposed ancestor farewell. It was a baboon, and he struck his hand and nearly cut it off. He aroused the whole circus by his screams and cried: "That is just what I say about my people; if you tell them anything for their own good, they will try to kill you!"

         This greatly amused my friends, and I was ever and anon being reminded of the fact that if I told my people anything for their own good, I would be nearly killed for it.

         The first place we visited was Westminster Abbey. It was founded in the eighth century

and was not completed till the thirteenth. It is in the form of an irregular cross: its length, exclusive of the chapel of Henry the Seventh, is 511 feet; width 203 feet; height 225 feet. All the British sovereigns from Edward the Confessor to Queen Victoria have been crowned in this great Abbey, and some of them have been buried there.

         The next place visited was St. Paul's Cathedral. The length of this Cathedral is 510 feet; width 250 feet; from the pavement to the top of the cross on the dome is 440 feet. In it lie the remains of Lord Wellington (after whom it has been my pleasure and delight to name my youngest son), Lord Nelson, John Moore, Sir Christopher Wren, John Howard and others. This is the greatest edifice of the kind in all the British Isles.

         The exterior of this building is not as imposing as our Capitol at Washington; the interior, some think, surpasses the interior of our Capitol. I hardly think so. It was by the kindness of Mr. Lincoln, who was our minister at the Court of St. James at that time, that I was permitted to enter the House of Commons and the House of Lords. After entering I had the pleasure of hearing Mr. Gladstone and also Mr. Balfour, who was then secretary for Ireland, and other distinguished statesmen of England.

         While sitting there I imagined that I could see Charles I. I was present in my imagination at this great trial; I saw the witnesses as they testified against him; I heard the great Commoner

(than whom there has been no greater, even Gladstone himself), Oliver Cromwell, call the liberty-loving hosts to arms. I saw them behead Charles, and then heard them proclaim Cromwell, Lord Protector. I heard the eloquence of a Burke; was present at the trial of Warren Hastings; indeed, listened to all the great intellectual battles which had been fought in those halls through the centuries.

         At one time it was Walpole that I saw in control of affairs. At another time Pitt. Mine own eyes beheld Gladstone with the reins in his hands.

         From the House of Parliament we went to the Tower of London, which existed at the time of Julius Cæsar. The White Tower was erected by William the Conqueror; 8,000 soldiers are garrisoned in the Tower. Here are kept the crowned jewels of England, worth $20,000,000, and which are guarded continually by some of the best trained soldiers of the Queen.

         Buckingham Palace, the city residence of the Queen, was next visited. On the day I visited the palace I had the extreme pleasure of seeing the Shah of Persia, who was on a visit to England; also Prince Albert and his royal family in the royal carriages. Buckingham Palace is a magnificent structure. I did not see the Queen at this time, but later, at Windsor Castle.

         Prince Albert Memorial, the most splendid monument of modern time, was next visited. At the corners are marble groups representing Asia, Europe, Africa and America; in the centre is a

life-sized figure of Albert. One hundred and sixty-nine life-sized portraits of England's distinguished poets, orators, etc., adorn this magnificent Memorial.

         We next turned our steps to the British Museum, the finest of the kind in the world. It contains some of the oldest and most valuable manuscripts extant; in it are many rare paintings and other works of art.

         After visiting some other places of interest and being entertained by the Count and Countess of Aberdeen, I left for the Continent. The first place I visited there was Antwerp, in Belgium. The Cathedral here is the most interesting thing in the city. It was eighty years in building. Length 500 feet; width 250 feet; height 405 feet.

         Brussels was next visited. It is Paris on a small scale; the streets are broad and well laid out. The King's palace is here. The House of Parliament is a splendid specimen of architecture. After spending some time at Brussels enjoying the refreshing breezes I left for Cologne, Germany. This is one of the oldest cities in Germany; here I saw the women in the market places with white handkerchiefs on their heads, wooden shoes, etc. These old German women look fat and lusty.

         The great Cathedral of Cologne, which is the finest in Northern Europe, was commenced in the thirteenth century, and finished in the nineteenth. The cost was nearly $4,000,000. Its length is 511 feet; height of the Tower 511 feet; width 231 feet.

Seven hundred and twenty-six stone statues adorn it. The choir and windows are superb. The columns and paintings are grand and imposing beyond description. It is useless for me to attempt to describe them. But this was not the church I was most interested in at Cologne; it was the church of St. Ursala. This church is lined with the bones of 6,000 martyrs of the Theban legion, which were slain here in the year 286, by order of the Emperor Diocletian. It is one of the finest churches in Cologne.

         The next place I visited-in Germany was Strasburg, the city containing the celebrated astronomical clock. From Strasburg I went to Worms. Here is where Martin Luther met the Diet, so famous in Ecclesiastical history. After visiting several other points in Germany, I left for Switzerland. The first place of interest in that country at which I stopped was Lucerne, situated on a small lake of the same name. Geneva was also visited. There are many renowned places of interest in this renowned city.

         Leaving Switzerland, my next point was Italy. The first city which I visited in Italy was Milan, where is one of the finest Cathedrals in Europe. From Milan I journeyed to Venice, the City in the Sea. Not liking Venice, I left on the next train; left my baggage behind, and did not obtain it again for a month.

         I arrived next at Florence which is one of the most beautiful cities in Italy. From Florence I went to Rome. Rome is called the "Eternal City,"

the once Mistress of the world! the home of Julius Cæsar, Pompey and Cicero. Here I visited the Old Forum, the Coliseum, passing the magnificent Arch of Titus. I also visited St. Peter's, the largest church edifice in the world . Naples was my next destination. Near this city is Mount Vesuvius, 3937 feet above the sea.

IX
EGYPT AND THE HOLY LAND

        They that go down to the sea in ships, that do business in great waters; these see the works of the Lord, and his wonders in the deep. --Old Testament, Psalm cvii. 23.

         AT Naples I took ship for Alexandria, in Egypt. When I went upon the steamer, Ortegia, the chief steward was not on board; the second steward did not seem to understand English, and did not seem to know much about the ship. He put me in a very fine stateroom. Indeed, it was a bridal apartment, all beautifully upholstered. I thought it was just the place to take my goods out of my valise and set up housekeeping in good shape, since it would take us five days to cross. I had no more than finished, when the chief steward arrived. He could not speak English, and I could not speak Italian, but by gesticulation, etc., he tried to tell me that I was in the wrong place. I endeavored to make him understand by gesticulation that I did not comprehend his meaning. Finally I manufactured a language of my own, and in slow

measured accents, looking him square in the face, I said: "Omfra shockto medo frala!" Don't ask me what I meant by that, as I could not tell you for the life of me. He looked at me in astonishment, as much as to say: "Why, what language do you speak, anyhow?" I took advantage of his ignorance to impress him with the fact that he had outraged my dignity, and with all the vehemence and rapidity possible I repeated the words: "Omfra shockto medo frala!"

         The steward left me hastily and never returned. Believe me when I tell you I occupied the apartment unmolested clear across the Mediterranean Sea. I would see them as I went to and fro from my meals peeping from behind the smokestacks at me, wondering from what part of India the Prince came. For I learned afterwards that they believed me to be a Prince from India.

         Finally, after five days' sail, I reached Alexandria and put up at the Hotel Abbot. Alexandria is quite a modern city in appearance. Here we come in contact with oriental life; long flowing robes, beautifully embroidered turbans, wide breeches, etc. I never heard such a racket in all my life as greeted me when the ship dropped anchor.

         One sees a great many marks of the bombardment of July, 1882. The first sight of interest is Pompey's Pillar, which stands on the elevation and is of polished red granite, 100 feet high. The Mohammedan Cemetery is very near Pompey's Pillar. Alexandria was named in honor of the

great Macedon General. Here Cleopatra lived and exercised her magic arts upon Cæsar and Marc Antony. Here the Arian heresy first originated, and it was once one of the famous Bishoprics of the world.

         From Alexandria we travelled to Cairo, which is situated on the River Nile. This is the river in which Moses was placed in the basket of bulrushes. The streets are narrow and anything but clean. The wonderful pyramids which have stood for the centuries are within eight miles of this city. The bazaars are one of its chief attractions. Long lines of camels, piloted by donkeys, can be seen at any time on entering the city.

         Imagine you see your bishop with a linen duster on and a plug hat, riding a little donkey, four feet high, to the great amusement of the bystanders. I asked the guide at what were all the people laughing; was it because I was a colored man? He said, "No, there are plenty people your color here." I asked him if it was my height. He said, "No, there are fine specimens of height in Cairo." I said, "Well, what is it then?" He replied, "Why, these people never saw any one here with a hat on like yours, especially on a donkey." I must confess it was a ludicrous sight.

         The Citadel, or El Kalah, is said to occupy the site of the Acropolis; and the ancient Bablioum is built on the flank of a hill overlooking the town. The gate is in the form of an elliptical arch. Here the slaughter of the Memlocks took place in 1811; only one escaped out of 450; they were decoyed

MRS. LELIA WALTERS

in this edifice and murdered. It is one of the finest sights of the town.

         The Palace of the Khedive presents nothing worthy of admiration. The Mosque of Mohammed Ali, erected in 1829, although built of costly material, is less interesting than the Mosque of Cairo. Its ceiling is a vast cupola surrounded by four demi-cupolas and four small domes at the corners. The whole of the interior is lined with oriental alabaster, except the upper part of the columns, which are painted to imitate that material. On the left of the entry, a golden grill encloses the tomb of Mohammed Ali, with lamps perpetually burning. From above the pavilion there is a splendid view of Cairo and lower Egypt, which some have said to be the finest view in the world. The Museum was next visited and is one of the most valuable in existence. Here we saw some ancient mummies, well preserved. The pyramids next claimed our attention. The largest one is 732 feet at the base line; perpendicular height 460 feet. The stones are from four to six feet long, and from two to four feet thick. The other pyramids are smaller.

         It was under this pyramid that Napoleon said upon one occasion just before a battle: "Do your duty well to-day, for forty centuries look down from the top of yonder pyramid to see that you acquit yourselves like men."

         The celebrated sphinx is near by. It is 140 feet in length; the paws 50 feet long, are built of hewn stone; the head is carved out of the solid

rock and measures 30 feet from the brow to the chin, and 14 feet across. These monuments tell of the civilization of the past.

         From Cairo we returned to Alexandria and took ship for Joppa. After two days' sail we landed at the port. It was here that Jonah shipped for Tarshish when commanded by the Lord to go to Nineveh, and subsequently had trouble with the whale. Here the timbers were landed which had been cut in the mountains of Lebanon to build Solomon's Temple. In this city Peter, while in a trance upon the housetop, beheld a sheet let down from heaven containing all manner of four-footed beasts of the earth, and creeping things, and fowls of the air; and there came to him a voice saying: "Arise, Peter, kill and eat." And Peter said: "Not so, Lord, for I have never eaten anything that is common or unclean." The voice spoke unto him again, the second time: "What God hath cleansed, that call not thou common." This convinced Peter.

         Here Dorcas was raised to life. Here I slept on a housetop, in imitation of what Peter had done. The city is built on the side of a hill. The most of the houses are stone, with earthen floors and flat roofs in the old oriental style. There are some beautiful lemon groves about Joppa. The bazaars are very good, but not as fine as in other cities.

         After visiting other places of interest in Joppa we left for Jerusalem, which is about thirty-five miles distant. The first place of note on leaving

Joppa is the Plain of Sharon, which extends from Jaffa to Cesarea. This is the Plain in which the lilies grew of which Jesus spoke. The next place is Ramleh, a village of four or five thousand inhabitants. There is a great tower near the town, and from this tower can be obtained a fine view of the Plain of Sharon, as far down as Askalon, and as far up as Mount Carmel.

         Next comes the Valley of Ajalon. This valley was made famous by the battle which Joshua had with the kings. He prayed that the sun might stand still over Gibeon and the moon be stayed in the Valley of Ajalon, until he obtained the victory over his enemies.

         From here we entered Koloneih; along by it runs the ravine out of which David gathered the stones with which to slay Goliath.

         I imagined I could see him as he left the armies of Saul and descended the valley with God in his view, trusting in Him for help. We turned our steps next toward Emmaus, which is on a descent just before you come in sight of Jerusalem. This is the village where Christ went with His disciples on the day of the Resurrection, and reasoned with them by the way; and when He had left them they said: "Did not our hearts burn within us as He talked with us?"

         A short while after leaving here we came in sight of Jerusalem. We entered on the western side, along which runs the Valley of Gihon. We entered through the Jaffa Gate; near this gate stands the old tower of David. We passed down

David Street, which is very narrow, not more than eight or ten feet wide. Camels and donkeys and the bazaars are all crowded in and along this street. We passed down into Christian Street, and before long reached the church of the Holy Sepulchre.

         This is a large and spacious building containing a great many chapels. The Greeks, Latins, Armenians, Copts, Abyssinians, all have chapels under this roof. The first object shown us was the Stone of Unction. When the body of Jesus was taken down from the cross, it was laid upon the Stone for anointing. Lamps hang over and surround the stone. Under the dome, in the centre of the church, is the Holy Sepulchre; it lies within a small chapel, 26 by 18 feet, and built of marble. The hole of the Sepulchre is round, it being cut in the side of the rock. The Sepulchre, itself, is only six by seven feet. The vestibule of the chapel called the Angels' Chapel contains the stone which the angels rolled away from the mouth of the tomb. Just at the back of the Sepulchre is the Chapel of the Copts. North of the Sepulchre is an open court, where Jesus said to Mary, "Woman, why weepest thou"? Many are the sacred places round about and in the church of the Holy Sepulchre; notably the Hill of Calvary, the rent which was made in the stone on the day of Christ's death.

         We next visited the Pool of Bethesda. There is no water in the Pool now, and excavations have well nigh destroyed its beauty. There is a little

stream issuing from the Pool of Siloam. The Mosque of Omar is a place of great interest. It is built on Mt. Moriah, the spot where the old temple stood which was built by Solomon. The Mosque is surrounded by a wall 1601 feet long on the west; 1530 feet on the east; 1024 feet on the north, and 922 feet on the south. It is entered by eight gates on the west. The Jews' Wailing Place is at the old wall and is said to have been built by David. There are seven gates to the City of Jerusalem: the Jaffa Gate, Damascus Gate, St. Stephen's Gate, Dung Gate, Zion Gate, Golden Gate and Gate of Herod.

         It is about two and a half miles around the walls; the walls are from 32 to 42 feet in height, and in some places 15 feet thick. On the east side of the city is the Valley of Jehoshaphat; on the south side is the Valley of Himmon. Just across this Valley is the Garden of Gethsemane; it was in this Garden that Christ was apprehended after His wonderful agony and prayer.

         From Gethsemane we visited the Mount of Olives, called also Mt. Olivet. It is an inconsiderable ridge lying on the east side of Jerusalem, made famous by the ascent of the Master, from its peak in the heaven.

         There is a minaret on the summit of the mountain from the top of which is one of the grandest views imaginable. Stretched at your feet is the Garden of Gethsemane and the city of Jerusalem; a little in the distance, looking toward the south, is the River Jordan and the Dead Sea. The top of

Mount Carmel is seen in the west, while Bethlehem lies to the southeast.

         To Bethlehem, which is about six miles from Jerusalem, we next directed our way. Just before entering the city, we came to Rachel's tomb; it is without the City gate. This is where Jacob buried his beloved wife, Rachel. Soon after leaving Rachel's tomb, we entered Bethlehem, the birthplace of our blessed Saviour, and of our King David. It is a small walled town of four or five thousand inhabitants. The Church of the Nativity covers the grotto where Christ was born. Like the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem, it is subdivided among the Greeks, Armenians, Latins, etc. A silver star marked the spot where Christ was born. The manger stands in a low recess cut from the rock, a few feet from this star.

         Other places of interest in the grotto are the chapel and tomb of St. Jerome; the well renowned for the libation which David poured out of water which had been gotten by a daring exploit by three of his mighty men, on hearing him exclaim: "O, that one would give me drink of the water of the well of Bethlehem, which is by the gate!" When it was brought he poured it out as a libation to the Lord, saying: "Be it far from me, O Lord, that I should do this. Is not this the blood of the men that went by jeopardy of their lives?" Therefore he would not drink of it.

         Here the angels appeared unto the shepherds, telling them of the birth of Jesus, and sang an anthem in honor of the new born King. Here

the wise men brought their gifts of gold, frankincense and myrrh, and laid them at the feet of the infant Sovereign. Over this city the star appeared which guided the wise men to the spot where the young child was born.

         From Bethlehem we directed our course to Hebron, one of the oldest cities in the Land of Palestine, the home of Abraham and Jacob. It is in the cave of Macpelah that Abraham buried his beloved wife Sarah. It is now a Mosque, in possession of the Mohammedans. Not a great distance from Hebron is the Valley of Eschol, where the spies from the camp of Israel gathered grapes to carry back to Moses as a sample of the fruit of the land. The bunches were so large that they had to be borne on a pole between two men. I had the pleasure of eating grapes in this valley, which I considered a great privilege. From Hebron we returned to Bethlehem. The next route lay from there to Marsaba, which is a convent in the midst of grand scenery, utterly barren and desolate. It is a gigantic structure, built in terraces into a kind of amphitheatre on the side of the mountain.

         From Marsaba our next point was the Dead Sea, called sometimes the Sea of Lot. It is about forty miles long, with an average breadth of nine miles, 1312 feet below the level of the Mediterranean Sea. It is fed by the Jordan and many other streams, but it has no apparent outlet. Its superfluous water is supposed to be carried off entirely by evaporation. The water is characterized

by vast quantities of magnesia and soda salts.

         The River of Jordan is the principal river of Palestine; it would be considered by an American as an insignificant river. It has a course of 150 miles and enters into the Dead Sea. It is the most historical river in the world; indeed, it is the history that clusters round the River Jordan which gives it its prominence.

         Jericho is about an hour's ride from Jordan River. It was in this road from Jerusalem to Jericho that the traveller fell among thieves, who stripped, wounded him and left him for dead. Jericho was long celebrated for its beautiful groves and gardens, which were given to Cleopatra by Marc Antony. It is now a barren waste, no beauty nor comeliness about it. From Jerusalem to Jericho is a ride of about nine hours.

         From thence we wended our way to Bethany, the home of Lazarus, Mary and Martha. It is a little city not far from Jerusalem. Our next trip was made to Nazareth, by way of Gibeah of Saul, Ramah of Benjamin, and Bethel, where Jacob saw the ladder, while sleeping with his head resting upon a stone. Jacob's well is here, where Christ held the conversation with the woman; Nebulus, or an ancient city of Shechem, between Mount Ebal and Mount Gerizim; the Plain of Esdraelon, and the Lake of Galilee.

         In Nazareth, like most of the other towns of Palestine, the houses are built of stone, with flat

roofs on the ancient order. Here lived Joseph and Mary with their son Jesus. Here Jesus spent his boyhood, roaming over the hills and doubtless carrying water from the famous well. The workshop of Joseph is here, where we are told Jesus, himself, labored.

         The next journey was to Heifa; from Heifa to Jaffa, and from Jaffa back to Alexandria. At Alexandria we joined the family of the Khedive and other distinguished persons, and left for Naples. From Naples to Rome; from Rome to Genoa, where Columbus set sail for the New World. From Genoa to Turin, to Geneva. From Geneva we came to Paris, France.

         The Exposition was in full blast in that city. We spent two weeks visiting places of interest. Paris is the finest city in the world; the streets are broad and magnificently laid off. We saw there the Arch of Triumph and the Place de la Concorde.

         We also visited Versailles, at which city is the palace, built by Louis XIV. The Exposition was a magnificent affair; one of its chief attractions was the Eiffel Tower, 1000 feet high.

         Other interesting places visited were the Column Vendôme; the Church of Nôtre Dame; the Hôtel Des Invalides; the Louvre, which was the city palace of the king, now an art gallery; the Tuileries or gardens of the king; the Grand Opera, one of the finest buildings in Paris.

         After "doing" Paris I left for London, and remained

there quite a long time, preaching in some of the finest Methodist and Congregational Churches in that city.

         From England I went to Scotland, visiting Edinburgh and Glasgow.

         From Scotland to Ireland, stopping at Dunkirk, Dublin, Killarney, Cork, Blarney Castle and Queenstown. At Queenstown I took the steamer Etruria for America, my native land. After six days' sail on this ocean liner, I found myself in New York harbor.

X
HOME AGAIN

                         "Breathes there the man with soul so dead
                         Who never to himself hath said,
                         This is my own, my native land!
                         Whose heart hath ne'er within him burned
                         As home his footsteps he hath turned
                         From wandering on a foreign strand?"

         ON my return home from my trip abroad, I at once began preparation for the complete renovation of Mother Zion. The ceiling was decorated after a model which I had seen in Germany. The cost was about $5000, and we were successful in raising every dollar of it ere the work was finished in October, 1890. In the fall of 1889, I was appointed by the Board of Bishops to succeed Rev. Jacob Thomas, as General Agent of the Book Concern. This institution had been located in the basement at 183 Bleecker Street, New York City. The first thing we did on taking charge was to move the few books and fixtures into our own church property, 353 Bleecker Street. The store was put in first class condition; new books and stationery bought, and the institution put into splendid running order. Miss Julia Hall was bur first clerk, and remained with us about six months. She was

succeeded by Mrs. Josephine Richardson, who remained with us a short while; she in turn was succeeded by Mrs. Emaline Bird Lawson, who remained with the department about nine years. In 1889, the Book Concern was removed from New York City to Charlotte, N. C., where it is now.

         August, 1890, was made memorable by the great camp-meeting, held at Prohibition Park , Staten Island, N. Y., under the auspices of Mother Zion Church. Some of the most distinguished clergymen of the A. M. E. and A. M. E. Zion Church were present and took part. Notably among them were Rev. B. F. Lee, D.D. (now bishop of the A. M. E. Church); Bishop J. W. Hood, D.D.; Drs. J. C. Price, G. L. Blackwell, J. S. Caldwell (now bishop of the A. M. E. Zion Church), James H. Smith, J. S. Colbert and Jacob Thomas. At this glorious camp-meeting, Mrs. Emaline Bird Lawson was converted.

         One of the chief features of the camp-meeting was the daily meeting for the Bible Study and Christian fellowship; friendships were made, which have remained unbroken till now.

         Notwithstanding we were on this holy mount and "about our Father's business," we found time to make out a slate for the ensuing General Conference, which resulted in my election to the office of a bishop. My chief supporters were: Bishop J. W. Hood, Dr. J. C. Price, and Hon. J. C. Dancey. During the winter we were blessed with another outpouring of the Holy Ghost;

nearly two hundred were converted. The Conference year was a most prosperous one.

ELECTED AND ORDAINED BISHOP

         The General Conference, which met in John Wesley Church, Pittsburgh, Pa., May 4, 1892, was a memorable one in our history. The aggressive policies inaugurated were many and had been exceedingly beneficial to the church. It was composed of some of Zion's most brainy men.

         On the twelfth day of May, it was decided by the General Conference that two additional bishops were needed. Thereupon the election ensued. Dr. I. C. Clinton and myself were elected bishops on the first ballot. An indescribable scene of enthusiasm followed on announcement of our election. We were carried about the church on the shoulders of our friends. I was not quite thirty-four years old when elected a bishop.

         On May 11, the day prior to my election, I entered into the following covenant with Almighty God:

        "O Lord, my Heavenly Father, I enter into this solemn covenant with Thee, should I by Thy grace be elected a bishop, I promise to love Thee fervently, and to serve Thee diligently all the days of my life. And to do all in my power to bring the ministry, over which I am appointed to preside, up to the highest standard of moral and Christian integrity."

         When the assignment of the bishops was made, I received the Seventh Episcopal District, which comprised the following conferences: Kentucky, Missouri, Arkansas, California, West Tennessee, Mississippi and Oregon Conferences.

         I was especially pleased to have the Kentucky Conference (my old home) placed in my district. Fourteen years prior to this time I had been admitted into its ranks at Indianapolis, Ind., and I was now delighted with the thought that I was to return as its Presiding Bishop.

         The first session over which I presided met at Louisville, Ky., September, 1892. The brethren, many of whom knew me when I was but a lad, and others who were my schoolmates, gave me a royal welcome.

         My stay among them was pleasant and profitable, at least to me and I think beneficial to the work. To my great delight the California Conference was added to my district. I had served as pastor and presiding elder in the said conference. The ministers and friends extended to me a warm and appreciative welcome. I was successful in adding several churches to the district and made large increases in the General Fund and other connectional claims.

         At the Pittsburg General Conference, arrangements were made for the celebration of the 100th Anniversary of the organization of the African Methodist Episcopal Church. The following resolution was introduced by me and received a unanimous vote of the General Conference:

        "In view of the fact that the Zion Connection is approaching the period of a 100th Anniversary and it is in keeping with the spirit of the church in some becoming way to observe such anniversary, we therefore recommend that a centennial celebration be held in the leading church of each Annual Conference District. It shall be under the management of the bishop and the members of the several annual conferences. The net proceeds shall be divided between the church and the centennial fund.

         "Be it further resolved that the General Celebration be held in Mother Zion Church, New York City, in September, 1896.

         "Be it further resolved that a committee be appointed to make arrangements for the said anniversary. The following were appointed:

         "Bishops J. W. Hood, C. C. Petty, C. R. Harris, T. H. Lomax, I. C. Clinton and A. Walters.

         "Revs. G. W. Clinton, W. Howard Day, R. H. G. Dyson, J. W. Alstork, B. F. Wheeler, H. W. Smith, W. H. Chambers, Thomas Darley, J. S. Caldwell, W. H. Goler, L. W. Oldfield, Tilghman Brown, S. C. Birchmore, W. H. Ferguson, A. F. Goslin, P. J. McIntosh, John E. Allen, J. B. Colbert, J. H. Anderson, Prof. S. G. Atkins, Hon. T. Thomas Fortune and Hon. W. C. Coleman. Revs. E. Geo. Biddle, G. W. Offley, E. H. Curry, J. W. Smith, J. E. Mason, R. H. Stitt, R. S. Rives, P. L. Cuyler, H. Blake, N. A. Crockett, M. H. Ross, J. P. Meacham, John Holliday, H. W. Harris, J. M. Washington, F. M. Jacobs, F. A. Clinton,

G. L. Blackwell, Hon. J. C. Dancey, Prof. B. A. Johnson, Hon. H. C. Weden, Hon. J. H. Butler, Mr. E. V. C. Eto and Frederick Douglass.

Bishop A. WALTERS, Chairman; Rev. G. W. CLINTON, Secretary; Rev. E. GEORGE BIDDLE, Treasurer, Hon. J. C. DANCEY, Manager."

XI
THE CENTENNIAL JUBILEE

                         "Our fathers, moved by faith and hope,
                         With spirit meek and low,
                         Established Zion firm and sure,
                         One hundred years ago."

         THE twentieth Quadrennial session of our General Conference met in State Street Church, Mobile, Ala., May, 1896. It was a notable gathering--three bishops were elected: Drs. G. W. Clinton, Jehu Holliday and J. B. Small. At this session the committee appointed on our One Hundredth Anniversary made its report. The committee stated that Mother Zion had been secured in which to hold the Jubilee and that arrangements had been made to have each church and each Annual Conference contribute to the fund and that excellent prizes had been offered to the church, Presiding Elder and pastor contributing the largest sum of money. It further reported that the following appeals had been sent out:

        To all evangelical churches of the United States of America, and to the Methodist bodies of Canada and the British Isles:

         Greeting:

         In 1796 James Varick and others, because of the

existence of proscription and other conditions which hindered their intellectual development and religious growth, and prevented them from engaging in the work of spreading the cause of Christ and uplifting their fellows according as they felt themselves moved by the spirit of God, withdrew from the Mother Church and formed a separate and distinct organization, out of which has grown the great African Methodist Episcopal Zion Church.

         We congratulate ourselves on having had a man of such unselfish motives, sterling qualities and pronounced ability as an organizer and leader, to head this great religious movement; he was the first man of the race to grasp the great idea of a purely Negro religious organization.

         During this hundred years our church has grown from a handful to nearly 400,000 communicants, embracing every section of the United States, Canada, a part of Africa and some of the Islands of the Sea. It has taken a foremost part in all movements affecting the moral, intellectual and spiritual welfare of the race.

         At the session of the General Conference held at Pittsburgh, Pa., in 1892, it was decided that we should hold our One Hundredth Anniversary in the month of October in 1896 in "Mother Zion" (our first established church in the connection), now situated at the corner of West 10th and Bleecker Streets, New York City, N. Y.

         We take this medium through which to inform you of our intention, and to earnestly ask your sympathy and co-operation to make this centennial effort a success in advancing the Redeemer's Kingdom and in the elevation of the race.

        It is our purpose to h