Letter from Joseph Caldwell to Denison Olmsted, August 31, 1824
London
August 31, 1824.
Dear Sir,
It is now, it seems, more than two months since I arrived at Liverpool from N. York
, and more than three since I left the latter of these cities. After
arriving in London I
continued nearly a month in the city, first visiting places and institutions of
importance and becoming acquainted with books and book-sellers, and instruments,
and instrument-makers. Having informed myself of circumstances and characters I
made a number of purchases, and engagements, and set off in a steam packet which
runs between London
and Edinburgh.
After a passage of 3½ days we arrived on the Forth, where the scenery of
Scotland began to
open upon our view. This was characterized by what is known as North Berwick Low, and
Bass Rock at
the entrance of the Firth
, as well as several other elevated places, presenting the first
appearance of those masses of Rock, of which Scotland seems very much composed. After having a pretty
rough passage along the British coast of the Germanocean, during which
most of the passengers, and myself too, at last became sick, we found a
beautiful contrast in the tranquility and glossy smoothness of the Forth. I
continued in Edinburgh 10 days, and then passing over to Glasgow, and staying some days,
I set out for Loch
Lomond, Rob Roy's cave, the Highlands, Loch Kattrine and the Trosachs, returning by Callender, Doune and Stirling to Edinburgh, down the Forth in a steamboat. I stayed two or
three days between Loch Lomond and Loch Kattrine, among the mountains, in a house or rather a cluster
of buildings, called the Garrison, which had been built 120 years ago, or more,
as a station for troops, to keep in check the wild clansmen of those times and
subdue them to the English power. The garrison is about a mile from Rob's Cave,
and from a spot where they tell us his house probably stood. One object for
staying here was to be for some time in the country of the shepherds, whom I
visited in theircottages to observe their mode of
life and opportunities and customs and state of society. This is the tour which
is very commonly made by people from England and the Lowlands of Scotland, and its objects have had much
interest added to them by the writings of Sir W. Scott. While in Loch Lomond I attempted to visit the
summit of Ben Lomond, the highest mountain but one in Scotland, but when near the top I was
driven back by a storm, and was thus prevented from seeing those extensive
prospects, which constitute the principal object of the ascent.
After my return to Edinburgh, reflecting to how little purpose it is to be visiting
universities during their vacations, as I had some occasion to experience in
Edinburgh, I concluded to postpone my visits to Cambride and Oxford till after my return from the Continent, and traveled
sometimes on foot, but for the most part by coach to this place, whence I am
expecting to set out for Paris this week. Present me respectfully and affectionately to Mrs.
Olmstead and Miss
Harriet and all my friends.